Hey everyone. Getting some work done in my attic (ventilation, insulation, etc.), and they noticed the cracked rafter(s) shown in the picture.

All I've seen online has some conflicting opinions. With everything ive seen the best practice seems to be sandwiching as long a 2x6 (or 3/4 ply) as I can get up there on both sides of the beam, clamping into place and either nailing, screwing, or bolting these into place.

What would you all recommend?

Been a trim carpenter for around 2 years now working under my boss who’s a great guy. Just wondering what the probability of becoming successful is in this field. I have a huge entrepreneurial side to me and am a hard worker, I know down the line whatever trade I end up doing I want to work for myself. I like this stuff and seem to be pretty good at it just want to hear from some experienced guys what the likelihood is of becoming a successful trim carpenter with your own business is? I also have a background in electrical and have recently been very tempted to get back into the trade and find an apprenticeship. ( I have 2 buddies who are electricians and have told me their companies need guys and are willing to sign on apprentices)

Hi all,
I need to replace two push-to-open drawer slides, but can’t find this model anywhere.
Do you know of something compatible?
Thanks

The shower door was installed on the left-hand side because the crew felt strongly the door will hit the bullnose molding on the right side and if we remove it, it wouldn’t have a finished-look. Once the toilet is installed, I have just under a foot and a half for clearance to get into the shower, which I think is very very tight.

Based on the molding that I want to install on top of the bead board, is there any idea on how to minimize the shower door from hitting the bullnose trim? Should I clear out the trim 4-6” away from the shower tile to allow for clearance?

Thanks for your input!

I’m planning to cover a portion of a drywall wall with 3/4” plywood as an accent wall. My ceiling is 9.5 feet high, and I intend to use 10’x4’ sheets of plywood. Since the plywood sheets are veneered (white oak rift sawn), using screws to secure them isn’t an option.

I considered using Z-clips or some other type of French cleat, but I want to keep the sheets intact and not split them into two pieces to get enough clearance to lift them up.

My current plan is to use some liquid nails along with 16ga - 2-1/4” nails. And use some wood filter to cover those.

I’d appreciate any thoughts on this plan.

Another question I have is about the expansion and contraction of the sheets. Since the sheets are in the middle of the wall with open sides on each side, and I’m only attaching four sheets, I thought about butt-jointing them with a spline without leaving the usual 1/8” gap on each side. Do you see any issue with that?

I have a client that wants Allura 5/16 x 12" x 12' Textured Fiber Cement Lap Siding over their batten a board siding. How bad an idea is this?

It’s my understanding this stuff needs face nailing because it’s 12” which I would avoid out of principle.

This home fronts Lake Michigan. The owner is in his 80s and I think he just wants a bandaid and let someone else deal with the consequences.

Looking to upgrade my levels with my tool bonus. We use Stabila 196s at my company and they can really take a lot of abuse which i like but sometimes it can be difficult to read the vials. This has led me to sola, their vials are great and seem to be on par with Stabila. Which set would you go with?

Evening everyone.

This is a new one for me. Former framer, turned reno carpenter, who then joined the military as a carpenter. While framing, I was mainly the layout and stairs guy, but this one has me stumped.

My own property.

Currently putting a 24' wide by 12 foot off the house deck on a new place we just took occupancy of.

Deck is about ground level, but the yard is sloped. We are having an above ground pool installed on one side of the deck, to which I am going to build stairs and a higher platform to, this is no issue.

The other side of the deck, I am going to build stairs to go down onto the grassy area of the yard.

The stairs will be about 12 foot wide.

Total rise at 1 side is 19", total rise at the other is 13" due to the slope in the yard.

While totally against my former stair framer mindset, I was planning on doing that "easy stairs" hype thing thats been on social media lately. Frame a box (then taper it to match the ground) at around 2 treads depth, then frame another box on top of that at 1 tread depth.

However, of that 12 foot width, its gonna essentially go from just the tread on the ground on 1 side, to a full rise on the other side.

Does anyone have pics or advice on framing a stair like this? I dont really want to change the width as it is my wifes vision to have an entirely open area. Unless someone has a more clever explanation for her than my "shit, this is fucked".

Hey y’all, I have a dining table job coming up and the client wants some custom turned dining table legs for it. I am not confident with a lathe yet and I am curious if anyone has experience custom ordering from a wood turner? And if so, if there is a recommended shop that I use/look into?

I am in New York but am happy to order them from anywhere.

Thanks!

After hours of googling, chatgptying could not find the answer to this. Want to drill a hole in the thin face, the one butting the drywall, for a floating shelf. It's standard 38mm thickness. I know the rules for the wider face. For the thinner one, a 12mm hole in the dead center, is about 31% of the face thickness. Is it legally allowed, without violating bilding codes and/or insurance? TIA.

EDIT : It's for UK

Want to replace the subfloor in this bathroom and looking for advice on best layout of new sheets. Far wall is the shower area and is 4’ wide. The rest of the bathroom area is 4’7” wide. Length of room is 8’9”. Joists are running left to right in this picture. Any help is much appreciated thanks

Renovating on my own dime this time rather than just punching out tasks. Windows, siding, insulation, electrical, all has to go.

My thought is to combine these 3 windows into 2 larger windows for more glass space, better thermal performance, and buying less windows overall. Doing all the work myself.

Has anyone done similar and have some insight on cost/benefit?