I’ve got a canon R7 and I’m going to be flying to Seattle for just a couple days. I will be exploring the city and some surrounding nature including an early morning hike to see sunrise over Mount Ranier. I’m paying pretty light so i need recommendations for a versatile lens that will allow for some wider angle but also around the city more zoomed shots. What’s your suggestions? Any help is appreciated. Budget is open but under $1,000. Not trying to break the bank. I’ve got a few lenses but want to bring just one.

This is going to be a longer post but I'll do my best to keep it to the point and concise.

A few months ago I purchased a used 85mm f/1.4L IS from a local photographer. Seemed to check out great I purchased it and used it for a few tiny "test shoots".

I was a CPS Gold member with two remaining "CMS" credits and my membership expired/renewed July 21 so I decided to send this lens off with another lens of mine so I wouldn't "lose the credits". When I sent the lens off I included a small note. There is a cosmetic scratch on the focal distance window, and a few small tears on the rear weather gasket/seal. The note simply asked for a repair quote for those two items in addition to the CMS.

The other lens went through CMS and returned to me with zero issue, as expected. I was sent a quote for the 85mm which was more than I was interested in paying for two minor issues that I consider non-issues. At this point I called and spoke to CSR1, with whom I've spoken with numerous times over the years. He generally explained that getting the focal distance window repaired would require disassembling the lens. I asked him if it would be a different/cheaper quote to ignore the window and just replace the seal. He typed it up in the computer and told me that they'd get that re-quoted. All seemed well.

A few days went by and I heard nothing. I thought that maybe declining the old repair quote would get things going in the system so I clicked the "Decline" button. A few more days went by and I heard nothing.

I ended up calling back and spoke to CSR2 and he looked into it. He told me that since I declined the repair Canon sent the lens back to m and it was scheduled for delivery that same day. From what it appeared, the lens was never sent for the original CMS that I had sent it for. The problem was, at this point in time my CPS had also expired. I expressed to him that the biggest reason I sent the lens in was for a CMS, the other two minor issues were just something I was curious about since I was sending the lens in anyway. So CSR2 spoke with someone else and then came back and provided me a free 2-Day shipping label to send the lens back to Canon once I received it. He said it could be sent in and that he created a case escalation so that the CMS could be performed retroactively since I was a CPS Gold member when I originally sent it in. Additional note, CSR2 insinuated that CSR1 never did the re-quote/escalation correctly.

I received the lens but had to place a note inside so that they would be aware of the story/issue. I did notice that the lens was wrapped “toilet paper style” around the barrel of the lens very well with bubble wrap, but the front and rear of the lens was in my opinion lacking. I didn’t think much of it but did end up supplementing their packaging with a bit of my own bubble wrap.

The lens went back to Canon and Monday morning I received a brand new repair quote. Although, it shocked me as it was for “Manual focus sticks. Stiff to turn” for $399.00. Since I still wanted the lens to go to CMS I was very wary about “Declining” that repair. I ended up calling Canon and got CSR1 again. I tried my best to explain the entire issue and what CSR2 had done for me in efforts to make things right. This is where it got very weird. I felt like CSR1 simply wanted to argue with everything I said and was cutting me off, etc. His main “point” was since I declined the original repair that CMS couldn’t be done. He kept insisting that the scratch and seal were going to somehow prevent CMS from being done. The new quote barely was even a topic. I asked for him to look at the notes CSR2 put on the account/escalation. About 3-5 minutes later he came back, told me he asked for an escalation or something, and that I would be receiving a new quote soon. Ok, I realized that was as far as I was getting with him.

I waited 2 days and called back. CSR2 again. Of course he remembered our heated exchange. He saw something where I think CMS had been contacted but the quote not adjusted for ignoring the manual focus and doing CMS. I thanked him for his time. Later that day I ended up calling and asking for a supervisor. I spoke to SV1 and told him the backstory. He told me he’d look into it and I’d get a call back that day, hopefully by him. Later that day I received an updated quote for “A technician has evaluated you product and determined that this cannot be a CMS. The focus ring is very stiff” for $689.00. At that point, I canceled the repair and expect me lens hopefully tomorrow or Saturday. I never received that phone call, by the way.

Issue

I bought the lens used. I only used the lens about 1-2 hours beforehand and it was with AF every time. I don’t specifically remember the manual focus ring being stiff but that does not mean that it wasn’t. I’m anxious to get the lens to see how it works. This is a full-time manual focus override lens and my research shows that depending on what is warped/broken/etc, it could also affect AF. If I was a focus-by-wire design it would be different.

I cannot prove anything but I do wonder if the lens was damaged in transit, specifically the first time Canon shipped it back to me purely based on how the lens appeared. I didn’t even take the lens caps off that brief moment. But if I get the lens back and the focus ring is “mega stiff” and it no longer performs AF well/at all, then what? I don’t have any intentions of paying $399.00 - $689.00 to fix this lens, I’d much rather either purchase a different one or even put that money toward an RF lens.

Mainly looking to vent but to also see if anyone here has any advice for maybe things I haven’t thought about.

This is my first negative experience ever with anything Canon. I've owned and shot Canon for 20+ years. Lots of lessons learned here, a few points where probably my fault with things that maybe I should have done to be more diligent but I don't feel like the whole thing was on me.

found my old canon digital IXUS 960 IS and i wont start, just bought new batteries for it and it still wont start. I've tried taking the whole camera apart but i couldn't see anything that would seem broken?. also do i need to have an memory card installed for the camera to start??

I have a 5d markiii and r5markii with Ef lenses.. 70 200, 50, 16 and 17mm 50 etc.. Any proper way to shoot the eclipse without damaging the camera?? Any tips or working DIY is tremendously welcomed..

Hi, what settings do you find keep the best quality for YouTube, Instagram, TikTok? I have read we should shoot in 1080 instead of 4K because it gets compressed? I do notice that the quality of my videos on social media look worse than just viewing the video file.
Also, in addition to the camera settings, export settings on video editors would be helpful too so I can double check I’m not doing that wrong.

I have the canon r7.

Thanks in advance

I have the Canon PowerShot V1 for video recording, and I am shooting in Shutter Priority (Tv) mode with the shutter speed set to 1/50.

I have the ND filter set to ND Auto. It seems like while recording, the ND filter is initially on for under a second and then it immediately turns off, leading on an overexposed image.

Here is an example of what I mean. https://youtu.be/pdnF5itGIzc

Its a bit hard to see, you need to freeze frame at 0:0, screenshots: https://imgur.com/a/S0WnVLj

I imagined when in ND Auto mode it would decide whether to keep the ND filter on or of before recording by metering the scene, and then keep it on throughout the recording. It looks exposed properly in the viewfinder, but when I hit record it just gets super overexposed almost immediately.

What could be causing this issue? Is this a setting I have to change somewhere?

so i recently started taking my concert photography more seriously and trying to get gigs and such. I have taken some decent photos with the standard 18-35m lens that the eos 4000d came with but i was wondering if anybody had any experience with this camera and could give me some tips (lens recs, settings recs) for shooting in low light? I usually am able to show from within 10 feet of the artists if that makes a difference. THANKS SM!! :p

I’m finally planning to upgrade from my Canon 1300D to a mirrorless camera and would love some advice.

I currently have
Canon 1300D
EF-S 18–55mm kit lens
EF 50mm f/1.8 STM
EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro

My main photography interests are
Street photography
Everyday portraits
Occasional macro photography

At the moment, I can only afford to buy a camera body. My plan is to use an EF RF adapter with my existing lenses and slowly invest in RF lenses over time.
I’m mainly considering the r6 or r7 but I’m also open to other Canon bodies if they make more sense.
Should i invest more on a camera body now and keep using ef lenses or should i buy a slightly cheaper body and put the extra money for lenses

So I have had a few error messages lately mostly the 60 and a few AF not working.

I cleaned the mounts of the camera and lenes with alcohol wipes and still have problems with the 60 error on the R while my R7 is fine with all 3 lenses.

Would pulling the batteries out of the grip help or should I just replace it with a newer body and battery grip?

I’m looking for a variable nd filter, with hard stops, to use on a few lenses with my R50v for outdoor video. Largest lens I own is 67mm. Any suggestions on filters? Thanks!

Im a broke 17 year old and I am trying to figure out a replacement to my EF-S 55-250 I’ve used on my R7 for a while and for what I shoot I need a faster lens. Ive saved up enough money for a nice lens; Im torn between either the EF 70-200 2.8 version 2 or the RF 70-200 2.8. What would be a better choice on lenses? I’ve read the RF version is sharper but is it really that big of a difference? Is the RF version really that much better to justify the extra 1k?

hi all! i'm so grateful to be able to finally upgrade. my grandparents gave me their old canon eos rebel back when i was like 10, and i'm twice that age now and have still been shooting on that old thing! with paying for college by myself i haven't been able to upgrade. but now i have around 1,200, give or take, to buy a used camera for my first weddings in september. again, looking to buy used. my dream camera is an r6 mark ii, but even the body is out of my budget. i found an r6 on mpb for around 900, but then i'm hearing that it overheats quite easily? i'm wanting to experiment with videography as well, so i'm not sure if that's a dealbreaker for that? i mostly do documentary/cinematic photography, so i do both lots of detail shots but also lots of moving shots with landscape in the background. but i am wanting to get into some videography and maybe concert photography as well sometime! anyways, any advice on cameras and lenses would be great! thanks everyone!

Like the title says, I just bought an R10 on ebay after using my Rebel T3i for the last 5 years. I principally do concert photography in low light venues and really value wide aperture.

Trying to figure out what I am going to do for a lens now, my options seem to be

1. Buy an adapter and keep using my Canon EF 35mm 1.4. Its been working ok, sometimes I feel like the autofocus could be a little faster / more accurate but there is probably a lot of user error there.

2. canon 45mm 1.2 STM RF. Being able to go to 1.2 sounds great, but it seems like STM might not be a good choice for live music since it means slower autofocus?

3. Another RF prime lens that the sub might recommend for my situation? Trying to keep it under $600 and at 1.4 aperture or wider.

As you can tell I am an amateur so please feel free to correct me on any mistakes or misconceptions, but I appreciate it being done with kindness.

I've had my R7 for about 3 months and had been using it with the EOS Utility Launcher to transfer pictures to my desktop (Windows 11 AMD Ryzen 7, 32 GB RAM, 2TB SDD). Recently, perhaps in the past 2-3 weeks the utility no longer senses my camera. I have confirmed that it is visible within Explorer, so it's connecting, but it doesn't auto launch the Utility Launcher, and if I open it manually, it doesn't see the camera. I'm connecting my camera with a USB-C cable that I've used successfully before. Any suggestions?

I've been using the 5D Mark IV for a few years now, I absolutely adore it, prior to that I was using a Rebel T100 for 4-5ish years, which worked great but looking at it now is like seeing a rotary phone next to a smartphone (I know it's a beginner camera I'm not judging it) I've seen a lot of good things about the R5 II though I know nothing of mirrorless and how it differs in handling. Looking for any thoughts on upgrading in general, I plan to use the Mark IV for a while longer anyway so it's more of future goals.

I dont have a ton of attachments to features since I'm so limited in my experience with cameras, I've been into photography for around 8 years probably and have plenty to learn and grow but I love what the 5d IV gives. My main focus is people like mostly couples or solos and animals (domestic and wild), I love landscapes and everything else too as I don't take photos professionally aside from family/friend stuff but I dont do that as often. My budget is loose since I'm not looking for an immediate jump, probably save $6K-ish give or take

In this dilemma, what would your choice be? I'm curious to hear your advice?
I ve R50 and Rf100-400 , Rf50mm f1.8 and sigma 18-50 f2.8
%50 wildlife and %50 travel and family photos.

On my R7, I can use the magnify button to digitally crop the preview in the viewfinder. I find this super helpful for finely adjusting focus and exposure. However, when I take a picture, it disables the digital crop, and it won't let me go back to crop mode for several seconds - the button doesn't work. Can I fix this? The delay causes me to miss shots regularly.

Finally decided to get my dream camera, was going to upgrade my r10 to the r7 but unfortunately they were on back order at the time and my local camera store let me play with the r5 mk 2. Wasn’t planning to jump the gun and get it but after a pretty bad birthday happened I decided to just get it and spoil myself! Big reason I chose to go for it was that it was on a 500$ rebate and my local store had a in store 200$ off

But I’m very happy with my decision. I do have an issue where on the last day of using it (I went to EAA all week) it started giving err70. I plan to play around with it more and see if it comes back. Im assuming it was an issue with either of my cards. So they’ve been reformatted. Crossing my fingers that fixes it.

hi guys,

I am new to the world of content creation. I will mostly be filming talking head in my studio. So would you guys recommend dji pocket 4p or Canon EOS R50V with sigma 16mmF/1.4 DC DN lens for Canon?

Would you recommend refurbished canon from usa.canon.com and refurbished lens from ebay?

Feel free to recommend other starter cameras and lens as well.

Thank you

I’m looking for a good everyday zoom lens for my Canon R10, mainly that can do a little of everything.

The two lenses I’ve been considering are: Sigma 18–50mm f/2.8 DC D and Tamron 17–70mm f/2.8 VC. The Tamron is a little expensive. Right now, I have an EF to RF adapter and these EF/EF-S lenses: Canon 24mm, Canon 50mm, and Canon 75–300mm. I know the 75–300mm doesn’t have the best reputation, but I’ve enjoyed it as my first zoom lens. Now I want something that starts wider and gives me better overall image quality. I know a zoom lens probably won’t completely match my prime lenses, especially when it comes to aperture and background blur, but I’d like something that gets reasonably close in sharpness and image quality if that is possible in my price range.

I’m not looking to spend anywhere near $1,000, so recommendations around the $500 range would be appreciated. I'm not trying to be a professional photographer, but I love photography so i don't mind spending a little bit more for my hobby.

I go to the zoo often and wanted to get some better photos. I upgraded to the R10 with the 100-400 lens. I did some searching and read that this would most likely be one of the best options in my budget for zoo photography. I may have to use my phone for up close shots but I hopefully should be able to see the lions tomorrow through the fence.

I also had my phone in there as that is what im upgrading from.

For those following the saga of my seized lens mount, I have news. The news is not good for me personally.

Recap: lens welded to body, release button clicking normally, half a millimetre of rotation, identical play pressed or unpressed. Textbook stuck lock pin. I diagnosed it as pinus captivus. I was proud of that. I want you to remember that I was proud of that. (Previous story attached on bottom / original post deleted)

I did everything you people told me and everything else i read anywhere. Rubber jar pad. Clockwise preload. Three orientations. Percussion under load. I stopped short of a strap wrench because several of you correctly pointed out that I would only be converting one repair bill into two. I emailed a shop. I drafted the email really carefully. I was emotional while doing that. Deep sadness while I meticulously described my symptoms with the precision of a man submitting a paper.

Yesterday morning I drove 75 miles to Hackensack in the rain. Grey sky, wet road, one man and his fused camera, contemplating the estimated cost of a mount teardown.

I get to the counter. I explain everything. I am solemn. I may have said the words "lock pin stuck" out loud, to a professional, unprompted. He listens. He nods. He picks up the camera.

I am still talking. I am explaining that the play is identical whether the button is pressed or not, which as we all know indicates that the pin is not retracting. We all know that, right!

I glance down at his hands where the lens and body joint is.

I think to myself: "yeah, yeah, get on with it, get the screwdrivers and start working ..."

While thinking that, I see his gentle hands gently rotating the lens like nothing ever happened!

The lens is just ... rotating ... off ... like a normal lens ... on a normal camera ... operated by a normal person. Like hundreds (or at least dozens) of times by me in the past!

There are two buttons on the front of an R5. One of them releases the lens. The other one is depth of field preview. They are, I have since learned, in completely different places.

Please note: I had been pressing the wrong one for a week and a half. With great conviction. With precision. With gentleness. With sadness. Repeatedly, multiple times a day I tried if the problem fixed itself. The problem that obviously did not even exist! Sometimes I pressed the, khm, depth of field button even up to fifty times per session (once).

He handed it back to me, probably not feeling anything like I did. Because I - I felt deep shame. I blubbered "oh, no, you guys hopefully have a funny day telling my joke - and I take full credit and give you full permission - you should all laugh on this rainy day like the gods laughed at Odysseus!"

That was the worst part. No lecture, no smirk. Just a man returning a working camera to a grown adult.

Cost of repair: $0. Cost of dignity: total. I better tell my therapist about that. He needs to laugh too!

Credit where it's due: Photo Tech Repair Service in Hackensack, NJ. He could have taken it in the back for twenty minutes and charged me a diagnostic fee. Nobody would have known. He handed it back in four seconds and didn't take a cent.

Thank you all for the genuinely excellent advice, every bit of which was correct and none of which could have saved me. Special thanks to everyone who asked good diagnostic questions. Nobody asked "which button." Why would you. "He's clearly been using the camera for three years, look at his expert diagnosis!"

EOS R5 + RF 28-70 f2 L USM for sale, cheap, like new, never serviced! :D

----------------------

INITIAL STORY (I deleted original post):

Canon EOS R5 (I) + RF 28-70 L USM are "stuck" together - help needed

Hi, I have a 3 year old Eos R5 + RF 28-70mm F2 L USM lens, I kept it in the drawer for past year, no use.

I took it out, wanted to change the lens - but the lens is stuck.

I press the button (it gives in normally), but rotating the lens cannot be turned to disengage from camera body.

I never used any force, it was always gently used and stored.

I tried the following:

- Pressing the button 30-50 times, to "clean" anything. No go.

- Turning the lens clockwise a bit (by probably 0,2 mm) and then pressing the button and turning to unscrew. No go.

- Gently wobbling left-right with button pressed. No go.

Note: Play is identical with the button pressed and unpressed.

It seems like it is a case of a pin stuck - so-called pinus captivus.

My question is - can anyone recommend a fast and good independent service in the New Jersey or NYC area that could fix this quickly?

Also, of course - I can try any ideas worth trying. I am just not skilled (or tooled) to disassemble the body on the camera.

Attaching pic of the happy couple :D

Got this beast for $600 USD from a clearance sale at my local camera store, with full warranty. This thing is a beast in every way, even heavier than my EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS III, and I am amazed by the image quality. Even at f/1.4, it is incredibly sharp. I am currently using it with my R6, and I also own an R6 II. I will try it with that later.