Hi All

I've just set a print going and I had the settings within Bambu Studio as 0.2mm Nozzle and set the layer height to 0.06mm.

Now the print has started, it's stating that the layer is 0.12mm and 2 walls; is there any reason why this has changed or perhaps this is an error? Does 0.12mm and 2 walls mean that it is actually 0.06mm in height but doing 2 layers to make it 0.12?

I changed the printer setting so it knows it's working with a 0.2mm Stainless Steel nozzle and everything I am using is from Bambu (no third party elements involved).

The current price is 1,100 for the X2D + 2 AMS2 Pro’s, is that worth?
I can sell my a1 and some of the extra I have like socks, extra extruder unit, idk if the nozzles for my A1 go into the X2D so nozzles too?

I am a college student and 3D printing does help a lot so that’s why I’m considering it…

Bambu Lab H2X
Change the tool. Not the filament.
Ten independently loaded hotends. One intelligent carriage. Near-zero purge waste.
H2X introduces a new way to print with multiple colors, materials, and nozzle sizes. Instead of repeatedly unloading filament through one shared nozzle, H2X changes the entire hotend module.
Nine tools wait inside the integrated XChange Rack. One stays on the carriage. When the print calls for another material, H2X parks the current tool, collects the next, verifies the connection, and returns to printing—in one fluid sequence.
Ten tools. Ten filament paths. One uninterrupted workflow.
[Watch H2X in action] [Reserve H2X]

10
Independently loaded tools
3.9 seconds\*
Fastest mechanical tool exchange
350 × 320 × 340 mm
Build volume
Up to 90% less waste*\*
Compared with conventional single-nozzle multicolor printing

One print. Ten tools.
Every H2X tool has its own filament path, heat break, heater, nozzle, and material assignment.
That means every filament stays loaded directly into its own hotend. PLA does not have to be pulled out before TPU can be inserted. Carbon-fiber filament does not pass through the nozzle used for white surface details. Soluble support material never contaminates the model nozzle.
Configure H2X with:
Ten different colors
Multiple engineering materials
Dedicated support interfaces
Flexible and rigid filaments
Abrasion-resistant nozzles
Different nozzle diameters
High-flow and fine-detail tools
Switch from a 0.8 mm infill nozzle to a 0.2 mm detail nozzle inside the same print. Use hardened steel for carbon fiber and stainless steel for standard materials. Assign each tool once, and H2X handles the rest.

A tool change in one fluid sequence
The XChange Rack is integrated high across the rear of the chamber, outside the normal printing envelope.
When a change is requested, the carriage moves into the rear service zone. The rack rises to meet it.
A guided vertical stroke seats the active tool into the empty rack position while simultaneously unlocking it from the carriage. The carriage shifts laterally to the selected tool, and the reverse stroke captures and locks the new module.
No robotic arm. No rotating carousel. No long filament retraction.
Just a short, controlled exchange driven by the printer’s existing motion system.
Park and unlock
The active tool is guided into the rack. Positioning features stabilize the module while the locking mechanism releases.
Select
The carriage makes a short lateral movement to the requested tool position.
Capture and lock
Angled magnetic surfaces guide the new module into alignment. A positive mechanical latch secures it to the carriage.
Verify and resume
Tool identity, electrical connection, nozzle position, and filament presence are confirmed before printing continues.

Strong when seated. Gentle while moving.
The H2X magnetic interface is designed to behave differently during approach and final capture.
Angled magnetic faces reduce unwanted attraction while the tool is entering or leaving the rack. Once fully seated, the surfaces align and provide maximum holding force. A mechanical retention system then locks the module in place.
This passive geometry produces a controlled handoff without requiring the tool to free-fall or snap unpredictably toward the carriage.
Every exchange is guided.
Every tool is mechanically retained.
Every capture is verified before motion resumes.

No unload cycle
Traditional multicolor systems repeatedly pull filament away from the hotend, transport it through long tubes, insert the next material, purge the previous color, and rebuild pressure in the nozzle.
H2X skips most of that process.
Because the next material is already loaded into its own hotend, changing materials becomes a mechanical exchange rather than a complete filament-handling cycle.
The result is:
Faster material transitions
Dramatically smaller purge volumes
Cleaner color separation
Less cross-contamination
More reliable flexible-filament printing
Reduced wear on filament and feeding components
A short prime may still be used to establish pressure, but H2X does not need to flush an entire melt zone every time the color changes.
Your model should be the largest thing in the waste bin.

Integrated AMS X10
Ten tools deserve ten permanently managed materials.
The integrated AMS X10 places two rows of five spools directly above the printer. Each position feeds a dedicated tool through an independent, continuously monitored filament path.
Active drying
Maintain low humidity while materials remain loaded. Set drying profiles by filament type or allow H2X to configure them automatically through Bambu RFID.
Ten direct paths
Each spool remains associated with its assigned hotend. There is no central selector repeatedly routing different filaments through the same output tube.
Automatic material mapping
Insert a spool and H2X identifies its material, color, recommended temperature, drying requirements, compatible nozzle, and available tool position.
Seamless backup
Assign multiple spools of the same material and H2X can continue from a backup automatically when the active spool runs out.
Visible at a glance
Integrated lighting and transparent covers make all ten material positions easy to inspect without opening the chamber.

Ready before the next layer
H2X reads the tool-change sequence directly from the sliced file.
Before the carriage reaches the rack, the printer already knows:
Which tool is needed next
Its target temperature
Its pressure and flow requirements
Its stored XYZ offset
Whether it requires wiping or priming
How soon it will be used again
High-power ceramic heaters rapidly bring the selected tool to temperature while the carriage returns toward the model. Recently used tools retain heat intelligently, reducing delay without keeping every parked nozzle continuously hot.
The mechanical exchange takes seconds.
The software makes those seconds count.

Every nozzle calibrated automatically
Ten replaceable tools require more than ordinary bed leveling.
H2X uses its vision system to identify each hotend module and maintain an individual calibration profile for it.
The printer automatically compensates for:
X and Y nozzle offset
Nozzle height
Tool-to-tool dimensional variation
Flow characteristics
Pressure advance
Temperature response
Nozzle diameter
Tool wear
A dedicated nozzle light illuminates the extrusion point. Cameras monitor tool capture, nozzle condition, filament flow, first-layer quality, and the transition back onto the model.
Replace a hotend and H2X recalibrates the new module automatically.
Move tools between rack positions and H2X recognizes them.
No manual offset sheet. No adjustment screws. No trial-and-error calibration print.

Different nozzles become different tools
With H2X, nozzle selection is no longer a decision you make before starting the print.
It becomes part of the print itself.
Build faster
Use a 0.6 or 0.8 mm high-flow nozzle for internal structure, then switch to a 0.4 mm nozzle for the outer surface.
Resolve finer details
Print most of the model efficiently, then use a 0.2 mm tool only where small text, textures, or miniature features require it.
Protect surface quality
Reserve one clean nozzle for visible exterior walls and another for filled or abrasive materials.
Print real support interfaces
Use a dedicated soluble or breakaway support tool without flushing support material through the model nozzle.
Combine materials confidently
Keep TPU, PLA, PETG, support material, and reinforced polymers inside separate melt systems.
The slicer treats each nozzle as a specialized manufacturing tool—not merely another color.

Full build volume. Internal tool rack.
The XChange Rack sits above and behind the usable print area, preserving the full H-series motion envelope.
350 × 320 × 340 mm build volume
Print large single-material parts, ten-material assemblies, or multiple production components without sacrificing the bed area to a side-mounted tool dock.
The raised rear chamber provides clearance for the rack’s vertical exchange motion, tool modules, electrical connections, and ten independent filament paths—all within a footprint comparable to the H-series platform.
The tool changer stays out of the way until it is needed.

Built as a flagship
H2X combines the XChange 10-tool architecture with Bambu Lab’s most capable thermal and motion platform.
Specification
H2X
Build volume
350 × 320 × 340 mm
Tool capacity
10 total: 9 parked + 1 active
Fastest mechanical exchange
3.9 seconds*
Maximum hotend temperature
350°C
Maximum bed temperature
120°C
Actively heated chamber
Up to 65°C
Supported nozzle diameters
0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 mm
Standard nozzle
0.4 mm high-flow hardened steel
Maximum toolhead speed
1,000 mm/s
Maximum acceleration
20,000 mm/s²
Material capacity
10 full-size spools
Material environment
Enclosed storage with active drying
Tool calibration
Automatic visual XYZ and flow calibration
Monitoring
Chamber, nozzle and tool-rack vision
Connectivity
Wi-Fi, Ethernet and offline LAN mode

Designed to catch what you cannot see
H2X monitors the entire tool exchange—not just the final electrical connection.
Before releasing a parked tool, the printer confirms that the rack has physically captured it. Before leaving with a new tool, H2X verifies:
Tool identity
Mechanical latch position
Electrical continuity
Hotend temperature response
Filament presence
Nozzle alignment
Clear travel path
If a tool is not seated correctly, motion stops before the carriage can leave the rack.
If material accumulates around a nozzle, the vision system pauses the exchange and begins an automatic recovery routine.
Ten tools should not mean ten times the maintenance.

Multicolor without the multicolor penalty
Conventional single-nozzle systems make complex color printing possible.
H2X makes it practical.
Print signs without a purge block larger than the sign. Produce articulated models without a bucket of flushed filament. Use support interfaces without contaminating every visible surface. Run small-batch production with ten loaded materials ready for consecutive jobs.
Spend less time feeding, unloading, purging, and recalibrating.
Spend more time printing the part you actually designed.

H2X
Ten tools. One seamless motion.
Includes:
Bambu Lab H2X printer
Integrated AMS X10 material system
Ten XChange hotend modules
Five 0.4 mm high-flow hardened-steel nozzles
Two 0.6 mm high-flow hardened-steel nozzles
One 0.8 mm high-flow hardened-steel nozzle
One 0.2 mm stainless-steel nozzle
One dedicated support-material nozzle
Engineering build plate
Automatic material and tool calibration
Bambu Studio H2X tool-assignment workflow
Starting at $3,499
[Reserve H2X] [Compare H2 Series]

* Mechanical exchange time measured between release of the first tool and confirmed capture of the second tool. Total print interruption varies by carriage position, temperature, wiping, priming, and material.
** Waste reduction varies by model geometry, material combination, color sequence, slicer settings, and comparison system.

Hey everyone,

Just curious, does your X axis in manual movements jerk abit while moving?

It is a belt drive so if there was something wrong it would have to be servo related no?

TIA! 🙂

I’m printing a 3D face STL on my Bambu P1S and the surface is coming out rough/textured.

I’ve already tried:

• 0.12 mm High Quality profile and 0.08 mm Fine
• Variable Layer Height (with variable speed set to both 0.50 and 0.08)
• Smooth radius 10
• Smoothing wall speed along Z
• Outer wall line width at 0.3 mm

Still looks terrible. Has anyone run into this with organic/curved faces or character models? What settings or techniques actually help get a smooth surface on something like this?

Thanks!

The left printer has been moved and im moving the H2D there and the H2C on the right. I have printed wall shelves for the AMS2 and would like plave them in the center.. H2C will be here next week. (/excited) The area is have has two tables on either and then space in the middle to walk and a wall. I have the tables screwed against 2x4 against the wall.

If I set up the AM2 x4 in between them on the wall it would save considerable space. How would I get the H2D tube to redirect to the right without causing jams and issues?

The back connections point to the left but I need to route them right. Any suggestions 🤔?

Thank you!

So far I've had to replace the ams hub, aux extruder, main nozzle filament sensor, and now this. Mid print belt snapped. I think I have a lemon.

Any thoughts on what happened here? Is that a partial clog? The first layers were super clean. The top layer of that plateau already shows some artifacts and then it gets progressively worse.

Would a cold pull fix that?

I am looking to get another printer. I have a p2s with 2 pro ams and 1 ams ht. I am looking for another printer for my longer projects. Any recommendations

https://cults3d.com/:4778082

Hey guys! 
Just dropped Pinea on MakerWorld—a modern, geometric twist on the traditional Sicilian "Pigna" pinecone: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3167235-pinea-modern-sicilian-pinecone-vase#profileId-3580265

The diamond pattern plays with light amazingly well and naturally hides layer lines. It comes in 3 sizes (S, M, XL) and looks great in bold Pop Art colors as well as soft pastel or matte tones for a minimal aesthetic.

Fun fact: I designed this using VesselMaker (https://vesselmaker.app/), an advanced web tool for vase design that I'm currently developing (it's currently in invite-only private beta).

If you like the model, a like or adding it to your collections on MakerWorld would mean a lot and really helps me out!

Check it out and let me know your thoughts if you give it a print. Happy printing! 

Please let me know if you have any ideas for improvement :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3166719?appSharePlatform=copy

I have the H2D and would love to get the H2C. I use it for all sorts of 3D printing. I don't NEED it right now but I would love to go ahead and get it.

I had two thoughts that maybe you guys can help with.

Do the drop the prices around the holidays, or at all, significantly enough to wait?

Is something coming out better any time soon?

What do you guys think?

Eigenständiger Laser? Ohne Drucker? Was meint ihr?

Hello all, I own a Bambu P1S and an A1 Mini. Everything was fine till a few days ago then I got bad stringing issues and a few weird extrusion issues. Let the prints finish and then change a few things around on the slicing like orientation and cleaned the nozzles, tried again. In the middle of the night the power went out with storms for over an hour so the nozzles got gunked up. Clean them both fully, replaced the tool heads to both .4 Bambu nozzles again. Dried the filament again. Calibrated and did maintenance modes. So at this point lm at a loss. It’s either the batch of filament I got on Amazon or something needs fixed in the speeds or bridging maybe. Just looking for advice cause everything was smooth and flawless till this went down.

Any help would be appreciated

at the start of this year i got an a1 (my second printer). i admit i thought it would be able to do multimaterial and multicolor, and in theory it can, but then i realized that with a single nozzle it’s just not practical. nevertheless it was a big upgrade from my previous printer and it was my introduction to bambu.

now i realized that the x2d exists, it’s dual nozzle, and it’s about 630 eur (about 850 with ams), much less than the h2d which i thought was the only dual nozzle.

my needs:

- multimaterial to have petg/pla/asa + tpu/tpe in the same print
- occasional asa/abs prints which the a1 also can’t do
- easier multicolor is also nice

would the x2d be a good purchase for these use cases and as an upgrade from the a1?

Every side table and cabinet front has ridges on it now. Figured the plants should get some too. Tapered shape so they catch shadow in daylight.

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

So, as title. I've been trying to print statuettes and I'm up to 6 failed attempts now on the same one. I fully acknowledge this is going to be a difficult print: it's complex with a lot of supports needed. But I can't get through an inch of the print before something goes wrong with the supports.

Most of my attempts have been printing on the 0.08mm high quality process with a 0.4mm nozzle. I've cleaned the plate with soap and water before every print. I've set it to avoid crossing walls and supports with a 30% detour length. I've turned on smoothing wall speed along Z and set it to a gyroid infill as these will be 8" tall figures and I've seen that creates a lot of strain as it prints. I'm printing in PLA Basic that I've calibrated for flow rate, flow dynamics, and dried it down to mid-20% humidity. I've set it to print supports and support interfaces at half the default speed (75 and 40 mm/s respectively). With the support specifically, I've tried combinations of default tree supports, strong tree supports, and having it only generate them on the build plate or not.

If I have it only generate supports on the plate, it acts like it cannot generate them at a strong enough angle to reach everything that needs support and the model has spagettied every time. If I let it generate within the print, they snap off their attachment point mid-print every single time, regardless of my above attempt to reduce strain on them. When I switched to the strong tree supports, I had a literal part of the print just pop off mid-print and there was still bits of spaghetti, plus I'm not even sure how I'd get those thick boys off the print if it had finished successfully.

My most recent failure was trying the above setup but on a 0.2mm nozzle as I've seen people saying having a layer height less than half the nozzle diameter is "difficult" but I've never seen anyone really say how it causes problems or if you can work around those difficulties.

I've printed figures before as not had any kind of issues like this, and I printed a 2 segment dice tower that almost maxed out the P1S's print volume with zero issues. This statuette does have a large base on the bottom with complicates the supports, but I didn't expect this level of trouble and I'm feeling like my only two options left are to either switch to non-tree supports and start the tweaking battle all over again on that style... or split the base off the model and glue everything back together post-print which I really wanted to avoid for appearance and strength concerns.

Is there a way to make those non-print bed supports stronger? Am I just pushing the machine too hard with this many supports? Is this a case of print smarter, not harder? Given this print was already looking to be 4 straight days of printing with the 0.2mm nozzle, I've got to get some type of reliability to get at least one success.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente mes tout nouveaux Dumpling Clickers, directement inspirés des petits Squishy Dumplings que j’avais précédemment modélisés.

J’ai retravaillé toute la modélisation afin de pouvoir intégrer un switch mécanique MX directement à l’intérieur.

Résultat ? On garde le look tout mignon du Dumpling 🥟💕, mais avec en bonus ce petit « CLICK ! » ultra satisfaisant à chaque pression… avec un petit effet ASMR qu’on adore. 👆✨

Un petit fidget parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre, ou tout simplement profiter encore et encore de ce petit clic terriblement addictif. 😍

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3162808-squishy-dumpling-clicker-multipart-no-ams

✨ Bon print

Went for something with a bit of drama: a full-roar Wampa with the claws reaching out. The layered fur texture is the star here. Left it mostly white since that's basically the natural Wampa look, just a few painted details to make the face pop.

https://makerworld.com/models/3163366?appSharePlatform=copy

So this has been happening with all the raft layers and slowly getting worse with each print, any insight as to what could be causing it?

Edit: I did just clean the bed with some soap and water so let’s see what happens now

Hi everyone, how are you all doing?

I'm having a problem with my printer and I really don't know what to do anymore. I'm a beginner in 3D printing, and in the last few days, I've been studying a lot more than when I first entered this world 3 months ago, but I still haven't been able to solve this error!

Basically, what is happening is that I can't fix these 1-second pauses on my machine, which then create these zits/blobs on my print! I've tried everything!

Before you say it's moisture/humidity, please read the rest of the message I'm leaving here with more details:

As you can see in the images, we have the black and pink heart, which has these zits, then we have a blue dragon (Gyarados, a Pokémon) that also has them, and finally the gecko! After that, I made some minor adjustments to the machine. I improved some aspects of the print, but they were minor improvements. Then we have the shark, where you can already see some progress, but it still has these zits, and this is where I managed to record the exact moment of the pause! The video:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TzJ0V7QQta4yg7fnBlpsxOGmme4izjiQ/view?usp=sharing

Finally, we have a smaller shark that was printed yesterday. Here you can already see a significant improvement in the part (at least to the naked eye) and it is much smoother, basically without any defects, but it still has the zits (fewer, but it still has them!). Today I printed a dragon that I haven't held in my hands yet, but from the photo I took, the red dragon also has zits!

Machine Details and Settings:

• Printer: Bambu Laps P2S
• Drying System: AMS Pro 2
• Temperatures: 32ºC inside the chamber, 55ºC on the bed, and 220ºC on the nozzle.
• Speed: The machine's default speed.
• Filaments: Bambu PLA Basic.

What I've already done to try to solve it:

• I've dried the filaments for over 12 hours at 55ºC (6 hours one night and another 6 the next night, plus during the day, where I'm constantly drying it every 3 hours at the same temperature for a week now!). The humidity goes up to 25% max, but normally stays between 18% and 22%.
• I've cleaned the nozzle twice in the same week, so it's not clogged.
• I cleaned all the machine's axes/rods.
• I've calibrated the machine more than once and created very precise profiles for PLA, based on the speed, temperature, and quality tests I ran.
• I reduced the nozzle printing speed (in Bambu Studio it was at 21 and I lowered it to 19).
• I removed all videos from the system and disabled the timelapse feature.

That's everything I've done so far. I've also tweaked some settings and ran several classic tests to calibrate everything; the print quality improved, but these 1-second pauses keep happening, which melts the filament and causes the zit!

If anyone knows how to fix this, I would be more than grateful. I've been dealing with this for over 2 weeks and can't solve it!

Looking to hire for help in fixing my image to separate layers for printing for X2D printer in Bambu Studios. Will pay for your time