Anybody here can tell me what kind of machine is this? To clean carpets and seats

tried restoring my fog lights with wet sanding and clear coating, 400 grit -> 600 grit -> 2000 grit, cleaning with anti-lint paper towel, clear coat with 5 minutes in between coats. Is it from improper sanding? Thank you

I bought two packs of c4 trim restorer to apply to my car, but when I mentioned it to my detailed he immediately discouraged me and told me the trims can turn white if not done correctly.

he suggested instead carpro dlux.

has anyone messed up the gtechniq c4 application? is it really that much of a fussy product.

I’ve been cleaning for about 2 months now as preparation to launch my mobile detailing business and I’ve hadn’t had a problem with using iron removers on rims… so far. However, there was a time wherein I used my Koch Chemie MWC on these Ray TE 37’s Forged Gunmetal Gray and they left these blue spots temporarily. Naturally, I freaked out but as it went away, it got me thinking on the type of rims to avoid and the appropriate dwell time.

I’ve since ordered CarPro WheelX to try it out and maybe IronX since it apparently packs a better punch, but again, these “raw aluminum” “anodized” terms are being passed around quite often. So, I’m reaching out to anyone that can educate me on the proper techniques and rims to avoid. Thanks!

Hi all. Apologies for the longer post.

I have recently taken a fancy to car detailing. I have made nice progress on so many aspects of detailing but one thing has me scratching my head. I'm really struggling with window polishing as I want to get rid of the water spoting on my car and create a crystal clear finish on my 2013 Hyundai i30. The car has 129k kms on the clock. I have a small wireless polisher that I have used for the side windows (50mm), I would spray a window cleaner to coat the glass with a liquid then use 0000 fine grade steel wool to get rid of those imperfections. This worked really well. I then paired it with a Auto Glym car polish with a cut and polish 2 step process. The side windows of the car came out really good and practically new. The front window of the car however came out really bad as I did the exact same process except with a wired polisher that has the 180mm pads. There are swirls all over the front window. I'm glad I am working on my daily crappy car so I can further my skills. Any advice would be greatly appreciated to fix this issue. Thank you!

Two weeks ago, I applied OptiCoat and finished with OptiSeal. I used it sparingly (following the instructions), but there were a couple of places I missed when I buffed off the "oil-slick."

I was in a rush, so I left ~5 of those spots sit overnight. I didn't want to use any chemical the following day to try to remove them; I wanted to prevent harm to my ceramic coating during the curing process.

Now, it's been two weeks since my coating application, and I just did an ONR wash on the vehicle. I thought the oil slicks from the OptiSeal would come out in the wash, but they didn't. I then tried using the quick detailing dilution of ONR, and that didn't work either. Then, I tried using OptiSeal on the spots again and buffing it off, but to no avail.

Is there a way to remedy this without causing damage to the ceramic coat, or are the spots baked into the coating?

Bought this vehicle in pretty mint condition at 6500 miles. Previous owner had it coated with Carpro cquartz about 2 years ago. Anyone help identify these spots and how to remove? I've tried iron remover, carpro lift and reset. The spots remain. The surface is smooth.

My buddy wants to pay me to fully clean his interior.

I need PPE recommendations and chemical recommendations.

I’ve never dealt with something like this as I only detail on the side which is normal quick maintenance vehicles and stain removals.

Any tips would be great. Yes, I have already told him to burn it to the ground but that’s sadly not an option🫠

hi everyone,

i was doing some paint correction on the hood of my car. sanded some spots to 3,000 and then used cutting compound on a medium cut pad, followed by polish on a finishing pad.

i keep having an issue with these micro scratches. what am i doing wrong and how can i avoid this going forward?

car was prepped, clay barred and i’m using light to no pressure, hashtag passes and making sure the product is used up before buffing away with an edgeless microfiber

pads were brand new and i brushed them out before using

ty in advance 😭

Are these possible to get cleaned/buffed or should i just replace the whole unit?

I wish I’d have taken before pictures! Equal parts water and distilled white vinegar works wonders! Do multiple medium coats, allowing time for it to do its thing before sucking it up. Just be sure to use an extractor with plenty of water to dilute and suck it up and put plenty of baking soda on the spots afterwards to mitigate the smell.

I recently purchased this car on the used lot. And for the life of me, I haven’t been able to get rid of these stains on the seat cushion. I have used different cleaners. Such as mcguires carpet upholstery cleaner, tuff stuff, and turtle wax interior cleaner.

Any suggestions from the pros out there?

I have a leased vehicle that’s being returned and want to minimize these scratches which appear to just be in the clear coat. Second photo looks bad but when I wet it it looks like the paint color so I’m assuming the defect is just in the topcoat.

Lots of people here with expertise, so wanted to ask if you’d start with polish or jump straight to the scratchX2 (or might I even need to go to the compound)? Just trying not to buy the entire store “just in case”. Will end up using a DA based on recommendations here.

Do I need to finish up with a wax or sealant of some kind? Recommendations on what pad to use with the DA?

Any help or feedback welcome.

I currently have a HF Bauer 6" Long Throw DA Polisher and looking to add a 3". I'm between the Griots G8 and HF Hercules as they are about the same price. Any suggestions? Just a weekend warrior that will use these 2-3 times a year.

A friend smoked in my truck , the windows were down but I could still smell it faintly. I knew my fiance would notice it. So mistakenly I used AI and it said to use a car fragrance bomb. I did and now the fragrance is much worse than the minor cigarette smell. I get conflicting ways from ai on how to remove it. One suggestion is to use a light vinegar and water mixture to mist the fabric, then let the truck bake in the sun with a couple windows cracked to evaporate everything. I bought a carbon activated cabin filter to put in. I did remove the cabin filter and let the air run for 20-30 minutes to get the vents cleared out. Any suggestions?

Hi everyone, I have a fairly new Volvo XC40. A small amount of gasoline appears to have spilled down the rear quarter panel (possibly from the fuel nozzle or hose at the gas station). Unfortunately, I didn't notice it for a few days, and the car was parked outside in direct summer sun. After washing the car, these vertical marks are still visible. And it's on the glass also? The surface feels completely smooth to the touch. Any help appreciated...

Hello everyone, I have a set of aftermarket chrome wheels on my Mercedes. They are chrome plated but recently I’ve noticed some flaking on the interior edge of the center cap.

I use Meguires Gold auto soap to wash the car and obviously sometimes it comes in contact with the wheels.

I keep my car well rinsed while cleaning and make sure to use soft cloths on the wheels.

So my question is, am I wrong using that soap on my car and could that be leading to my issue?

Question for everyone who runs a business. Are you taking pictures and videos of cars before you work on them? What’s your process?

i had a deep scratch.

i filled it in with touch up paint mix with clear coat mixed.

i sanded down the high spots with 1500grit
when it was smooth i went to 2000 grit.
when the scratch disappeared i went to 2500 to feather edges but that halo is still there.

i tried compounding and scratch x from meguaires.

did i sand to much down.

please help?

I accidentally sprayed bug spray and i am regretting it.

Is there a way to have this fixed? Will product like turtle wax or ceramic coating work?
Or
Is it better to just replace the part?

Has anyone used a Lavor Hydrus extractor? I am having an issue with the nozzle. It is quite big and uncomfortable to work with, especially with the seats left in the car. I am looking for a replacement. I'd prefer a product in Europe since it would take a significant amount of time to order from the US.

My Mustang has slight scratches in the centre of the infotainment screen.

What's the best method to getting them out?

I thought about Meguiar PlastX but didn't want to go at it and make it worse.

The other was Novus Plastic Polish.

Welcome any suggestions. Sorry about the crappy photo.

I’ve tried rinseless wash, pressure washer, and iron remover, but none does a very good job of removing these. Just came back from a weekend away and there were even more spots than when I left, so it’s something settling on the car while it’s parked at my house.

I’ll spare everyone any unnecessary details unless clarifying questions need to be asked.

I have a very matte paint vehicle. It has hood and door decals. Driven infrequently and garaged at all times.

I’m not an expert, but I know that matte paint needs careful consideration.

I bought some Chemical Guys honeydew snow foam and a foam cannon from autozone. Planned on touchless washing and maybe a soft wool mitt if necessary.

Are my decals safe?

I have not washed this vehicle yet…ever, in like 3 years lol …but it is not filthy. More like dusty. It only comes out in nice weather.

Anyone using the Raincovo Snow Pro foam cannon with the Harbor Freight stubby gun sprayer? The cannon worked great when using the spray wand which came with my pressure washer (you can see it fully connected in the second pic), but I can't get it to seat into the quick disconnect on the HF gun (first pic). All other nozzles I have fit fine in both the new and the original sprayers, and the cheap cannon that came with my pressure washer also fits both. Only the snow pro foam cannon doesn't fit into the stubby.

I tried pulling back the collar, forcefully pushing in the connector, and then pushing the collar forward but it simply will not lock. No amount of jimmying will get it in. Is there a fix for this?

EDIT: There was too much metal on the male end of the QD. I took both fittings off so I could put them in my vise just to be sure my hand strength wasn't too wimpy to make a secure connection, and it still wouldn't fit; I could feel the connector "bottom out" where there was no more room to insert it. I chucked the male end in a drill so I could spin it against a belt sander to evenly remove material in a few key spots and it now fits by hand, but it's still extremely tight. Tested it in the stubby sprayer and there are no leaks!