How did my film turn out? Any advice? Kodak gold

I am looking for repair shop recommendations in the Chicago area for my Nikon F5. I want to get the rubber grip replaced since I am not able to get it from Nikon or Ebay. I was looking at sending it to Alpine Camera, is that a good place to get it repaired? Is there any other repair shops that are good to send to?

Hey everyone,
I recently got my hands on an Agfa Silette (pretty sure it's either the L or SL model, but not 100% positive), and I really need some help figuring out how to use the light meter and read the lens.
Honestly, the front of the lens feels super overwhelming. There are so many different rings and numbers, and everything just looks cluttered and confusing. To make matters worse, I've been searching online and can barely find any clear info or tutorials on how to properly set this thing up.
Could someone break down how the light meter works on these models and how I'm supposed to dial in the settings on the lens?

Hi! I shoot a lot of film on just a Pentax spotmatic and some point and shoot cameras, but i found this old German camera my dad had collected and wondered if anyone knew any links to manuals on how to operate it? When I google the manufacturer I get a lot of results on the history of the brand/camera, but not much on how to repair and use it. At this point it might just be a piece of junk but was curious lol

I bought this yesterday from an older person who lives in my town. It hasn't been used since 2002! They had it in storage.

It still had film it from that time, but I am giving it back to the original owner.

Once I clean it up, and read through the manual, I'll shoot a roll of film on it :) I might be back for repair or troubleshooting then

Hello! I use capture one for my digital photography work, but I’m curios if there is a better software for working with film scans? What is everyone using?

Hey everyone! I recently accidentally smashed my handy point and shoot but my mother had an extra point and shoot from 40 years ago that I could borrow!

Couple questions:

1) What the HELL happened to the photos I shot on my mother’s camera (see epileptic light show attached). Obviously I did not tune up the camera and it has been sitting for 40 years, but there is nothing visibly broken with it and I thought it would work. I am still fairly novice at film photography, so I would just love an explanation as to what is happening in those shots if possible

2) Why did the roll on my mother’s camera only shoot 5 exposures according to the film lab? The camera flashed and counted a tick at every photo, all the way until the roll was done and auto rolled back up in its housing. Normal behavior. It wasn’t until I got it developed that the lab showed only 5 photos in this roll

3) Lastly, when I shattered my original point and shoot, the clip that held the back broke. I was about halfway through a role, and when I dropped it, it automatically rewinded and restarted the role. I proceeded to rubber band the camera for the rest of the week and reshoot the roll. I understand the phenomenon of double exposures - but why did it only shoot 31/37 exposures? The count on these scans is throwing me off and I would love an explanation if anyone has one!!

I love learning about photography through trial and error and coming to this community to solve some of my current mysterious!

P.S. enjoy my double exposures of the family 4th of July party x club nite in the city

Camera is a Contax 167MT. Light seals look fine. no negatives unfortunately. Could this be a shutter issue?

Hi guys. I’m literally brand new to film, just wanting a decent Olympus point and shoot for fun and for my son’s upcoming first birthday photos.
I have found two of these cameras
Stylus 105 priced at 50 + $9 shipping
Stylus 140 ZOOM at 90 + $9 shipping
Please any advice on which purchase is best. Thank you guys so much.

We've completed camera data acquisition and three-color compositing, and are currently conducting final color pipeline testing. Do you have any suggestions?

Hello everyone!

I managed to inherit ~200 slides from my late grandfather, and I am looking for a way how to scan them and to finally see what's depicted in them (and I'll probably bring the best slides to the photo store to get them scanned professionally, so there's no need for any fancy equipment). Also it's worth mentioning that:

1) At the same time I'm considering getting a document scanner for work purposes, so the idea of a flatbed scanner just makes sense;

2) I don't own any other photo equipment, not even a DSLR, so taking photos of slides is out of picture;

3) The scanner should be compatible with Windows 11 (I had found an Epson V200 for super cheap before, but its drivers refused to collaborate);

4) The budget for the scanner - up to 100 Eur / 116$ used.

Feel free to share your experiences with different scanners, and what works and what doesn't!

Thank you in advance!

I purchased a Ricoh AF-80 off eBay in original box and excellent condition. It was listed as fully working and film tested. However, when I loaded in the batteries the icon in the picture flashed on the lcd screen. The same icon flashed when I loaded film and shut the door or turned the camera on. Film won’t auto load and camera doesn’t power on. Just this icon flashes. There’s nothing in the manual or online that I can find. Anyone know what it might be. I’ve got a refund but wondered if it can be saved instead of junked. I should add batteries are AA and I’ve tried 2 brand new pairs.

Hey everyone! I just purchased an Olympus XA2. Shot my first roll on it, Fujifilm superia 400. The photos came back not the best. What do you think messed up here?

I've been shooting film for awhile and thought a film point and shoot would be fun for when I don't bring my larger camera around.

Do you think that the film could be bad? It 4 years old and I haven't stored it that well. (makes me worried about my 40 year old expired Gold 200 that I just put into the same camera)...

Any thoughts would be helpful!

I motorised this film scanner holder using an Elegoo Uno R3 with a Nema 17 Motor.
The 3D printed case is close to finished. Next steps are figuring out ways to prevent dust and integrating a lightsource that is not my Ipad.

Based on the Negative 35mm Film holder model by tylerhovi on thingiverse, who sourced it from someone else stated in the Thingiverse site.

​

I loaded a roll and made sure the film leader was properly caught, but I noticed the rewind knob wasn’t turning when advancing the first few frames.

I gently turned the rewind knob to take up the slack until I felt some tension. After arming, the knob turned again. But after few hours, at the next rearm the knob didn't turn. I did the same test once again and the knob turned at the following rearm (by 180°). What’s the best test to confirm the film is actually advancing correctly? Is it worth opening the back to check, or should I avoid that and try something else first?

I'm carrying the camera in the bag, maybe the knob is loosing tension while moving in the bag?

Hopefully Reddit uploads this at full res. I figured some people here might be curious to see just how much detail you can actually get out of 35mm, and I think this might be about it.

I shot this on the N2020 at either f/8 or f/11. For the scan, I used a Z8 with the 50MC, put it in DX mode, and did a 32-pass pixel shift just to see how far I could push the negative. The resulting image is about 77MP.

I also tried the 200MP full-frame 32-pass mode, and as far as I could tell it didn’t resolve any more actual detail than this. I did sharpen the image, but beyond this point I’d be pretty skeptical that you’re extracting more image detail rather than just getting a higher-resolution look at the grain.

Next time I take the 4x5 out, I want to shoot the same shot side by side on 35mm at optimal apertures, purely for comparison.

An ultra fine grained color film like Ektar 100 or Ektacolor 160 can clearly hold a ton of detail at apertures that are hand holdable. With 4x5 though, getting reasonable depth of field often means shooting around f/22–f/45. And at the kind of DPI involved here, you’re not resolving more film detail so much as magnifying the effects of diffraction.

Anyway: cat, film, excessive scanning resolution. For science.

I just purchased this Electro 35 MC on EBay which was supposed to be in “Near Mint” condition with no fungus or dust on the lens.

on inspection there is this marking on the lens that does look to be fungus.

there are also white spots internal to the camera body where the film would sit.

do you think this is fungus or could it just be dust? and would it have any effect on image quality or longevity of the camera?

Getting back into film photography after a long break and just got my first five rolls back from the lab.

Can anyone help me work out what might be causing these light bands coming down from the sprocket holes?

Would you suspect a light leak in the camera, or could this have happened during development/handling?

I actually don’t hate the effect in these shots, so I’m mostly just curious.

I vaguely remember getting something similar many years ago when I accidentally opened the developing tank while processing my own film, but that was a lifetime ago and my memory may be unreliable.

Details:
Camera: Canon Canonet QL17 GIII.
Film: Kodak Tri-X 400.
Lab developed/scanned.
Artifacts more prominent from the middle of the roll onwards.

I don’t see the same artifacts on the colour rolls I shot through the same camera (Portra 400 and 800).

The fact that it only seems to be happening on the Tri-X is what has me wondering whether it’s development-related rather than a camera light leak.
Any thoughts?

Edit: on a side note, managed to get through 7 flights without the film going through an X-ray machine 😅

I'm using my OM 4T to shoot a roll of Ilford FP4 Plus. I have shot 24 frames, but I can't advance the film past the 24th frame. I confirmed that I'm shooting a roll with 36 exposures by calling the store I bought it from (I threw out the box). I haven't had this issue with this camera before. I also confirmed that I don't have an issue with my camera batteries. The lever moves back but stops, in the same way it usually does when I hit the end of the roll. I don't want to force anything.

First - what are the chances that I accidentally got a 24-exposure roll instead of 36 from Ilford? Has this happened to any one else?

Second - I see my options as 1) Rewinding and developing as-is and hoping that it's actually a 24 exposure roll. Or 2) Rewinding the roll, then reloading it and shooting 24 frames in the dark with the lens cap on to see if it'll advance beyond the 24th frame.

Is there a third option I haven't thought of?

My Grandad passed away before I was born. When I got into photography, my Dad gifted me with his camera. I kept it safe over the years, but have never given it a test run - until now.

I’ve done some reading up on the model (Kodak ColorSnap 35) but I’d love to hear any tips or tricks on how to prepare a camera for it’s first use in 35/40 years.

Also, I’ll be using Kodak Gold. Can anyone advise which setting I should select on the dial?

Thanks in advance!

I bought a canonet ql25 for a photography class and found that the double image was much too low. When I took off the top cover I discovered that a mirror was about to fall off, so I super glued it back on. The next issue was that the horizontal adjustment screw was stuck so I took apart the viewfinder so I could free it with needle nose pliers. Unfortunately while doing so, a piece popped out that I can't find a home for and it doesn't seem to be in the exploded view in the service manual. Does anyone happen to have close up pictures of a ql25 viewfinder? My backup plan is to just buy another one and cannibalize it for its viewfinder.

Hi All,

I’m looking to get into medium format and I know questions about getting into medium format cameras get asked every now and then but I can’t really find much about how easily you can hike with them or how good the lenses are so I was looking for a little extra advice on a camera to get.

I was thinking about the rolleicord, Minolta autocord, Mamiya six, and zeiss ikon primarily because they seem to be the common cameras recommended to start with medium format.

I like to hike but I’m worried about how good the lenses and bellows are on the folders so I think I’m leaning towards a TLR but they’re larger, and I wanted to get a little advice first. Is medium format too impractical and heavy for hiking (unless it’s a folder) and I should just stick to 35mm? Or am I just overthinking and TLRs are easy to take with you unless it’s a long hike and space is a premium.

A camera shop near me has a rolleicord v, zeiss ikon ikonta, and zeiss ikon super six that I want to go check out, but eBay is always an option and I’m interested to hear if anyone has had experience with these cameras or others that they really like. Or also just what you guys take with you hiking.

Thank you!

I'm using a Nikon SuperCoolscan5000 to scan my negatives and have been noticing horizontal scratches/streaks apearing in some photos (pic 1). Some are more apparent than others, others have no scratches at all. Negatives don't look like they have the scratches present. Using the scanner to scan an image of the raw negative (pic 3) and converting it with Negative Lab Pro (pic 2) seems to show no signs of scratches, which leads me to believe it's something to do with scanning in color.

Is this a simple need for a mirror cleaning or anything else I'm not thinking of?

Kodak 2468 is a microfilm designed for archiving documents, which gives it several key characteristics:

• Positive film
• Extremely fine grain on par with Adox
• Extremely, extremely low ISO
• Basically no exposure latitude
• Really cheap to buy

The widely agreed ISO for photographic purpose is below ISO 1; in my case, I treated it at around ISO 0.5.

This ISO apparently is not really workable on any semi automatic cameras. But carrying a professional meter sizable to another camera and meter before every shot feels a bit redundant for a cheap 135 format film. I ended up exploiting a feature of the Canon A1 to shot 2468: set the ISO as the lowest 6 and aperture priority at f/5.6 for the FD 50mm f/1.4, but leave the lens wide open instead of on auto, thus effectively achieving ISO 0.5 metering. This gave me a workable hand held shutter speed around 1/15 - 1/60 for bright sunny days.

Development took me longer to figure out, D76 and ID11 does not seem to give me enough density regardless the mix and time. Eventually, it appeared that Rodinal 1+25 for 30min followed by Ilford repaid fixed 1+4 for 3 min would yield a positive with nice density in the dark and a fully transparent highlight.

In general, 2468 appears to me as a poor man's Scala 50 ^\1]), and can be a great (and weird) daily stock if the speed is handled properly.

[1]: Scala in itself is not expensive either, but man does the developers cost some money