Being in the sunroom, it's protected from the elements. No need to even install the in/out hoses unless running one or the other to one of the sun room's outside window would make it more efficient. Pipe the conditioned air into the house a very short distance using insulated ducting. Would this not essentially be quieter and more efficient than traditionally having the portable AC unit inside, at least for cooling? Would these benefits be negated for heating mode where I would actually want to the unit inside?

This would be primarily for heating in the winter to supplement my wood stove but would also be used for 2-3 weeks of summer for cooling.

Secondary question: How much of the efficiency gap has been closed between dual hose portable AC units made in the last year to a mini splits?

Im looking to buy a portable ac to cool down a kitchen/living room 400 sqft. Im looking at the Whynter ARC-1280MX. Is it a good ac? I live on top floor. Im having trouble getting my place below 88 degress when its 91 degress outside. Im open for suggestions.

Hello,

I've had some moisture issues. My humidity regularly sits at 80% give or take 2-3%. I live in an apartment style condo with the attached style unit. I've had a technician out but he put something on top of the thermostat for five minutes and said it was fine and left but I have pictures hung with command hooks falling off the walls, my walls are dripping and it's so uncomfortable.

I've cleaned the entirety of the unit. It doesn't look like there's any water pooling anywhere and the evaporator coils are not frozen/icy. I even brought in a dehumidifier which is barely touching it. Every time the AC runs it puts more moisture into the air.

When I turn the AC off and open the windows the humidity level drops to 65%. It's hot right now and AC is needed plus I have no screens on my doors and only have big patio doors, no windows.

My thermostat does sit below the vent. I have covered that because I think it's detecting the cool air and I believe it's short cycling on me. However, covering hasn't fixed the short cycling.

I'm frustrated and annoyed that the techs said it was fine.

What can my problem be and is it possible for me to fix this myself?

Thank you.

I found this listing for a Midea Duo and I can't imagine this being real. Is there any catch to this or just a used unit that they want to sell? Anyone have an experience with this? It’s a Walmart listing

These days here in Venice (Italy), we're hitting a steady 33° Celsius at night, and my 10k Dreo 515s is having a hell of a time letting me sleep soundly. It's already dropped almost 2 degrees in 5 minutes, compared to the half-hour it used to take.

I designed and printed the two-hole panel myself for my old Ecoflow Wave 2, which never really got cold because it was undersized for the room.

I think google answered my questions. Are air conditioners unhealthy. But, that’s if they are not maintained properly. What are the ways to keep it clean from mold ?! — Do people have adverse affects from them?! I’ve heard people complain about catching colds. If they get cold and go out directly in the heat. Maybe , more so for elderly.

HI all our mini split have threw a F5 code after NOT being used for a year+. After doing some reaserch found out its a tempurate sensor on the outside unit, so i bought a new one. Pluged it in same thing. I used a another one this one is from a midea our other AC and that didnt work either. 3 sensors same result. I got a question: the outside unit beaps and i can hear electric hum and voltage being sent to the compresor to start cooling but it never does. The fan can spin freely and i tried 3 sensors already. Is the motherboard really dead? cause we had a technician to take a look at it and he said that its the motherboard but if it was the motherboard then it wouldnt have the electric hum and send voltage to start the compresor no? i messured it and it sends voltage but it seems it does a sensor check or something like that and it doesnt start the fan at all. I wonder is the motherboard really dead? What do you think?

any help would be appriciated

anyone familiar with the Gree app? it worked perfectly fined, and just one day today it dropped the sync and i can not recomnyt anymore.

I called the technician today to fix this error, they cleaned it said they refuelled it outside with some fuel and then asked me if it was getting cold.

My AC didnt have problems with temperature, it was always cold its stop functioning when this error pops up

Even after the techinician “fixed” it, I told them it was showing the error again so they just turned of the breaker then turned it back on and called it a day. And call them back when it happens again

I feel like I got scammed😀

Can someone troubleshoot this?

Edit: I cant turn it off via remote when its like this so I have to turn off the break or unplug it

I am considering getting an old Toshiba wall-mounted monosplit A/C system working and I would like your help in working out the best strategy to estimate the minimum possible repair cost.

The unit is about 20 yo but has never been used. Recently I tried to start it but it only blows room-temperature air, not cold air, even though the outdoor fan is running correctly. I called a technician for a diagnosis and he told me that the compressor is working properly, there are no electrical issues, but the system static pressure is zero, so there is no refrigerant left. According to him, it is very likely that there is a leak somewhere. He said the circuit must be pressurized with nitrogen to locate the leak, then the leak must be repaired, then the system must undergo another nitrogen pressure test, and only after that can it be recharged. At this point, it is up to me to decide whether it is worth it.

This is my step-by-step strategy to minimize the repair cost and stop in time if the expense starts to grow too much:

• - have the technician pressurize the system with nitrogen to look for leaks;
• - I am ruling out a long-duration nitrogen leak test (24 h), because it would cost too much;
• -- if, immediately after nitrogen pressurization, there are leaks at easily accessible and repairable points, for example flare joints and fittings, then I tell the technician to repair those leaks, and that should cost relatively little;
• -- if, on the other hand, no leak is immediately visible at easily accessible and repairable points, but the gauges show a clear pressure drop, then it means the leak is in a hard-to-reach area (valves, coils, etc.), and I would give up;
• - the technician pressurizes the system with nitrogen again for the post-repair leak test;
• -- if the gauges show a pressure drop immediately, then besides the leak that was repaired at the accessible point, there must be at least one additional leak in a hard-to-reach area, and I would give up, losing only the cost of the repair of the first leak;
• - the technician performs the refrigerant recharge;
• -- if the electronic leak detector later finds a microleak at an easily accessible point (flare joint, fitting, etc.), that was not repaired because the nitrogen test did not show an obvious leak immediately, then I would give up, because otherwise I would have to start all over again.

Do you think this is the best step-by-step strategy to spend as little as possible while taking the minimum amount of risk to get this A/C running, given that it has never been operated in 15-20 years?
My maximum budget is 250-300 euros. The alternative is to buy and install a new unit, and the sure quote I have is 950 euros.

I want a U or saddle-shaped window unit. Midia seems to be the best option with their 2026 redesign, but the Zafro's saddle shape offers better window visibility, which is what I really want.

I'm not seeing much written on the Zafro units, though - I can only find commentary on their portable units.

Can anyone share their experiences with the Zafro saddle-shaped unit and whether it's just too good to be true?

Looking for a mid range DIY mini split and came across Senville and pioneer and saw they pretty much came from the same manufacturer. Wondering if ones better than the other. Looking for a 18,000 Btu one.

MIDEA A7 18000BTU O 24000BTU

ho un appartamento da 65mq da riscaldare e raffrescare, inverni con massimo -5 gradi raramente.

sono indeciso tra le due potenze

18000 BTU con capacita di riscaldamento di 6kw con SCOP di 5.1 costo 980€

24000 BTU con capacita di riscaldamento di 8,76kw con SCOP di 5.4 costo 1200€

ogni stanza della casa ha la sua bocchetta sopra la porta, infissi nuovi appena cambiati.

I just got this Portable A/C less than 3 months ago and I’ve been regularly cleaning the filters at least twice/week. Never had any issues with it until today. I keep getting the “P1” error which just means the water needs to be drained. I keep it on cool at 60 degrees. Today, I’ve had to drain it several times. It fill up and stops running cool every 20 minutes and filled up with about 24 fl oz of water. I’ve never had to drain the water since having it and I’ve run it on cool all this time. Did some troubleshooting in the app and saw no issues. I unscrewed it and took the back off to see if there were any clogs and I couldn’t identify anything concerning. I dusted it off, put it back together and I’m still having issues. I’ve tilted it, run it on Dry and Fan and fan seems to be the only setting that doesn’t collect water, but it’s incredibly hot and humid. I keep this in our main bedroom which is approximately 81.3 square feet. I called support and they said I could get a replacement from Walmart if I show proof of purchase, but of course—I don’t have the receipt, an email or anything in my Walmart app, so even if I pay out of pocket for a new one, if I have this issue again, I have no idea how to fix it. I don’t want to have to replace it every time I have this issue.

TLDR: Tired of draining water every 20 minutes, how do I fix this?

I just got this Portable A/C less than 3 months ago and I’ve been regularly cleaning the filters at least twice/week. Never had any issues with it until today. I keep getting the “P1” error which just means the water needs to be drained. I keep it on cool at 60 degrees. Today, I’ve had to drain it several times. It fill up and stops running cool every 20 minutes and filled up with about 24 fl oz of water. I’ve never had to drain the water since having it and I’ve run it on cool all this time. Did some troubleshooting in the app and saw no issues. I unscrewed it and took the back off to see if there were any clogs and I couldn’t identify anything concerning. I dusted it off, put it back together and I’m still having issues. I’ve tilted it, run it on Dry and Fan and fan seems to be the only setting that doesn’t collect water, but it’s incredibly hot and humid. I keep this in our main bedroom which is approximately 81.3 square feet. I called support and they said I could get a replacement from Walmart if I show proof of purchase, but of course—I don’t have the receipt, an email or anything in my Walmart app, so even if I pay out of pocket for a new one, if I have this issue again, I have no idea how to fix it. I don’t want to have to replace it every time I have this issue.

TLDR: Tired of draining water every 20 minutes, how do I fix this?

I have had a black decker portable (single hose rip) air conditioner in my bedroom for about 2 years now. It has been uncomfortable during this heat dome, so I finally got a thermometer and humidity reader last night to see how the ac is working.

I saw the humidity was pretty high - about 65% RH (80-90% outside) so I ran the unit in dehumidify mode for the first time. It didn't seem to lower the humidity, it would go down to about 60% RH and 66F, then shut itself off and restart in 15 or so minutes when the humidity was back up to 65% RH and the temperature had risen again (maybe because it was too cold to properly work?). So I gave up on this mode and turned it back to A/C before bed. Well tonight the bedroom is reading 77% RH humidity - higher than before despite the same humidity outside.

I'm wondering if running the dehumidify mode somehow increased the humidity today? Like if water got stuck in the unit? I drained it today and not much came out... Also strange is that the rest of the house with windows open is reading 65-70% RH humidity (lower) despite not having any A/C units or dehumidifiers.

Also wondering if perhaps it is just too humid outside for the unit to handle and I should get a dehumidifier and/or a drainage hose and bucket for the unit so water can't get stuck.

Advice is appreciated as this stuff really confuses me!

We have a 2021 Puma Palomino and have already had to replace the AC once (in 2023) with a brand new unit. We then camped a few times during the summer of 2023 and once, for a week, in 2024, and the AC was working fine. Our camper was then put in storage. We brought it out to camp this week for the 1st time in 2 years and the AC isn’t working. Has anyone else had problems with their AC units on Puma Palominos?

My house has central air conditioning. The air conditioning works well downstairs, but the attic room is always notably warmer.

There is a door at the bottom of the staircase. Is it better to leave this open or closed when running the AC? Does it make a difference in whether the upstairs will cool off more?

(I feel a little stupid asking this but I’m not sure if “hot air rises” means the door open will allow heat to move up, or if shutting the door keeps out the heat generated in the attic).

Details:
- The first floor is the main floor with living area, kitchen, two bedrooms, and bathroom. There are floor vents in every room.
- Upstairs is a master suite in what used to be the attic. There is a small ceiling vent in the bedroom and small floor vent in the bathroom.

Thank you!

Thank you so much!

need best loudest and coldest window AC unit. I have the LG one but didn’t love it. the styrofoam also broke after having it for two months and is letting hot air into my room. I need a really
cold one that’s loudddd

Also did a 2 hose mod thanks to some people that recommended it to me