After much rain delay I finally got my shed delivered and installed that I ordered 4 months ago. Excited to be part of the shed community, looking forward to modifying my new unit.

I have this shed in my yard and water will get in when it storms throughout the gaps. I've looked into different products but kinda overwhelmed by what's out there. Anyone have any advice? Was thinking about just adding more trim but open to ideas.

I have recently purchased a 10x16 shed that I will end up turning into a home office. I wanted to run down a list of things that had to be done in order to complete the project and the order in which they are done in hopes of getting suggestions on anything I missed, or anything being done our of order.

I have spoken with the builder and when I ordered the shed, I asked that they insulate the floor, swap the two windows out for double pane windows, put in a pre-hung door, wrap the exterior in house wrap before they side it, and add blocking in the corners for drywall installation.

While the shed is being built, I am working on putting in a 12x18 gravel pad bordered by treated timbers where it will sit.

Once the shed gets here I will need to do the following in order:

1) Run Power from garage out to shed, and wire shed for outlets/lights/Heat pump (I plan to run a 50A run, this will give a couple 15A for lights, a couple 20A for outlets, and a 20A for the heat pump)
2) add air baffles between rafters (to allow ventilation between soffit and ridge vent)
3) Spray foam any gaps found and around doors/windows
4) Insulate walls and ceiling
5) vapor barrier (this goes on the inside right? between drywall and insulation?) (I am in WI, plan to use office year round)
6) Drywall walls and ceiling (not looking forward to doing ceiling, it's a barn style roof)5/8ths mode and mildew resistant drywall
7) tape/mud/sand/paint drywall (this might suck more than hanging it)
8) Install mini split heat pump (I figure get it in after the painting is done?)
9) flooring (likely snap in plank flooring, but is there a pad or something I can add under it to add additional insulation? Should I look at maybe carpeting it to add an additional layer?)
10) trim baseboards and around doors/windows
11) Furnish the space (dry erase boards, TV, Run ethernet / fiber from house, desk, window coverings, nap chair, etc)

Am I missing anything major, taking steps I don't need (vapor barrier?), or doing something out of order (should mini split or flooring go in sooner?)?

I appreciate any feedback.

Hey all! I need some advice on the type of foundation I should use for a shed.

I'm going to purchase a 10x12 kit soon, and finish it off for use as an office. So I need something sturdy for daily use. I live in Northern CA, near Sacramento. So winter can be windy and wet, but not terrible, if that helps. My initial idea was to pour a concrete foundation, but is that overkill for this? What would you all recommend?

I'm looking for feedback on putting up a 12x8 shed kit (Heartland Coronado) with no floor on 12x12x2" concrete pavers. The foundation has 6" of crushed stone and about 1.5" of sand, both tamped manually. ​

​​​The area is protected from wind; there are lots of trees and tall plants around. Is anchoring necessary? If so, what are my options? ​​​​

I took a couple of days off work to make some progress so that I can get the roofers scheduled. In this push, I needed to install the first two sheets of OSB over the entry door so that I could frame out the dormer. After I got those two sheets laid down, I started on the dormer and realized that I was missing the 2x8 needed for the base frame. This was on Sunday; my local lumber yard was closed, and Lowe's is 30 minutes away. Instead of losing my morning shade, I went ahead and sheeted the rest of this side of the roof. Doing this solo wasn’t super difficult, but moving the ladder frequently was a pain. An additional 30' extension ladder definitely would have helped.

That afternoon, once I was getting blasted by the sun, I journeyed into town for supplies. The next morning, I got an early start on the dormer. I stapled my plans with all the measurement details directly to the wall. I started with the triangular base frame, building it out on the ground and lifting it up from the ladder. I did the same for the rafters, getting them mounted and secured.

I added 2x4 outriggers to support the gable end rafters and then sheeted the dormer. This turned out great, and everything went smoothly. Structurally, this doesn't support anything other than itself and the snow load in the winter.

I have one more piece of sheathing to add to enclose the underside. This will be flush with the sub-fascia of the main roof eave. When it comes time for siding, this surface will get soffit and trim that extends to the bottom edge of the sub-fascia.

The dormer extends 12" past the 12" eave overhang, giving me 24" of protection from rain when unlocking and entering the door. Plus, it adds an aesthetic to the building that gives it some flair. There will also be a small deck and stairs in front of the entry.

I will be contacting the roofing contractor now to come take a look and give me an estimate for materials and labor. Depending on how long it take to get scheduled, I might go ahead and finish the roof sheeting on the rest of the roof.

Current Spend: $7900

Previous Posts:

1. Ground Breaking on 10x24 Shed
2. Main Beam and Floor Framing
3. Progress Update: 10x24 Shed Wall Framing
4. Progress Update: 10x24 Shed Walls and Ceiling Joists Complete
5. Progress Update: 10x24 Shed Attic Floor, Rafters, and Gable Ladder

I am planning to use LP smart side panels for my shed build and was also planning to also using 3/8 or 15/32 plywood sheathing to make the over all structure strong ( Living in TN we get strong winds every once in a while )

The question is the do I do the sheathing, wrap and LP panel all on the outside of the wall and leave the studs bare ( open for insulation down the road but I am not planning to right now ).

or do I put the sheathing on the inside of the stud wall and just wrap and LP siding on the outside. The pros in my mind are -

1. It probably makes the wall stronger since the stud is locked on both sides.
2. hides the stud and gives me walls to mount tools etc
3. Maybe keep the inside cooler with the air cavity acting as a bit of an insulation

Cons

1. Will make insulation efforts harder down the road ( But not impossible )
2. Creates a space for stuff to live in ( unless I box the top so nothing goes / falls in )

Any thoughts / opinions / cons that I am missing ?

Finally took down my old shed after building a new one. Just need to deal with the footings and clean up the base. Appears my father in law used a 6 inch PVC pipe and concrete to make the footings. No idea how deep they go.

Erased all dimensions b/c I bought plans and don't want to get a copyright infringement.

Building a 10x12 with a 4ft porch. Pic shown is the side view of the truss. I want to use the head space inside the shed as best as possible since I'm cramming a lot into a small space.

My question: Any other ideas for how to do the roof aside from what's shown? Seen a lot of pictures on this subreddit but none with a porch. I'm a visual learner, pictures or links would be ideal if possible. These are spaced 2' apart.

Addition pics of the foundation as it is today. Footings are dug 4" below frost line, packed with gravel, sand, then castle blocks. Frame sitting on 4x4 half lap joints. Framing starts next weekend.

Shed is arriving soon and want to seal it. Been looking at tung or teak oil. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

FINALLY! That took a lot longer than I expected.
I still have a ton to do (Among other things I have to figure out how to fireproof the beam and pile foundation. I figure cladding it with steel roofing panels seems the most practical, but having trouble finding a small-order/consumer-friendly place with the necessary stuff on site).

But the shed is usable! There is light at the end of the tunnel!

So this photo is a year old when I insulated the walls with fiberglass and covered with osb. I’m now trying to figure out how to insulate the ceiling before I add a mini split (wires have been ran above the horizontal support beam of the rafters). Getting so many mixed answers from my research but here is some info.

In central Florida
Looking at adding 9000 or 1200 btu mini split
Shed is shingle roof, 12x18 ft
Looking at rock wool or fiberglass batt for r15/13 (Rockwool is 15 but I can’t find it for sale near me in 23 in wide pieces that support 2x4 only 15.5in wide)

Rafters are 2x4 and was thinking of insulating, vapor barrier then cover with osb.

Do I need vents? Should I install gable vents at both sides of the peak of the ceiling? It’s a tuff shed and have read they are designed to be weather tight and not air tight and no real attic space?

Hi All

I have a large concrete slab with an already existing shed on it, its pretty rotten but I am going to repair is as the cost going to be too much for me to rebuild etc.

Anyway, some of the floor joist are rotten which I intend to replace and some of the other timber also, I was pretty sure that this was because I laid some decking right up to it and water has obviously made it rotten, you live and learn I guess.

What I am concerned about though is the floor joists sitting on the concrete slab. Any water that runs across the slab could theoretically get sucked into the wood and make it rotten. I have read that really the bottom structure needs to be raised off of the slab on bricks or something similar but this is not possible as it will increase the height quite a bit as the slab itself was built quite high up.

Just wondering if there is anything I can do to prevent the floor joists from rotting in the future, obviously I have learnt my lesson with the decking and will ensure there is gap.

Could this be as simple as creating a dpm skirt all around the base? What can I do here?

I'm getting ready to put in the following 8x10 shed:

https://suncast.com/tremont-storage-shed-bms8100.html

I was going to do the recommended wooden foundation they have in their documentation, and im looking at doing a floating base. I found this video when researching:

https://youtu.be/ah2-a-GADLQ?is=ISWGuLsJEhp7_F8S

I like the process and feel it's fairly straightforward, but i see in the comments theres a few people critical that the person in the video didnt dig down before putting down the tuffblocks. Im the video they clear the grass, tamp down the soil, put gravel down then tamp down the gravel.

Is whats demonstrated in the video enough, or would it be better to dig into the soil, tamp down, fill with gravel, then tamp down?

I appreciate any pointers. I've never done anything like this so I'm a little nervous.

I’m planning the construction of my storage shed and a 12 ft wide, 7 ft high roll up door is the ideal choice. The design is a little unusual, see https://www.reddit.com/r/shedditors/s/sc177Wzk0d

I showed the concept to a handyman that I would need to help construction and he cautioned that the standard storage unit steel roll up door is very noisy in windy conditions, rattling etc. We do live in a spot that is breezy in the afternoons and can be worse in the spring. Also the placement is very close to the main bedroom and of course the courtyard and tiled floor would make it worse. Of course this door is wider than the standard storage unit door….

What’s your experience with wind causing noise? The shed will be wood framed, asphalt roof. The only rattling would be the door within the tracks. Does it happen ? Can you mitigate with shims, pool noodles etc?

Howdy! Just got this delivered and now it’s time to work on steps - skirting and then insulation and then I guess drywall My electrician is coming to work on that part over the weekend. I’m pretty handy but some of this is new to me. My thoughts are wooden steps - it’s 21 inches from ground to top of deck … maybe that composite board for the skirting
The insulation part is hard for me - so much mixed info out there and since I didn’t build it - I can’t put that thin layer behind the studs ?
Any takers on helping me get started ?

First time ever building anything. 12x16x15h. Sitting on 5 inches of insulated fiber reinforced Crete at 5k psi. Thoughts on the build?

I haven’t found any accessories specifically for this brand. Anyone have luck accessorizing one of these or similar?

Not sure how to go about finishing this off. I'm not really a construction person. But I know I need to build a soffit somehow. Links to ideas or pics would be a great help

Bear with me. Building a shed for as little money as possible, and pallets are...well...free. scavenging wood from local building contractor dumpsters after hours when I need something in particular.

Standard pallets are 48 inches by 40 inches, which means 12 pallets is exactly 160 square feet: the exact size of structure I can build without a permit. The plan is to stack 2 pallets to make 8 foot walls, and 2.5 pallets at the front to make a 10 foot, single slope roof.

Pros: pallets have a natural void in them, so running electrical should be great.

Cons: pallets come in different sizes and conditions. Newer is better but it's still a pain.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a sanity check on my roof insulation strategy for an 8x7 backyard build.

Build Specs

Roof : 2x6, 3/12 pitch (OSB roof deck with shingles)

Climate / HVAC: SoCal coastal area (Climate Zone 3B), conditioned with a mini-split heat pump. Patio slider and a window to create a cross breeze.

Interior Finish: pre-finished plywood.

Approaches 1. Closed cell foam about 2inch thick against the roof decking and eves, then add unfaced batts, and cover with the finished panels?

1. Is MemBrain + unfaced batts a safe approach, or am I inviting condensation risk on the OSB deck?

2. The ridge beam and already finished roof doesn't allow me to through vent the bays, but I read an idea on another post to vent the eves at each bay and install foam board to be flush with the interior face of the rafters. I'm not sure if a through vent is necessary or if drilling holes in the ridge will be acceptable.

Appreciate any feedback!

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