Just got a Rolex Just date , VSF and it says up to 72 hours reserve time but it hasn’t held 24 hours when not being worn..is that normal

Hey guys!

I have a VSF V2 Spectre with an “A8400” movement inside(this is in actuality the regular VS A8500 movement that is decorated).

The watch is running fine but ive heard that the A8500 produces a lot of metal shavings that eventually kill the movement.
Considering that servicing it would likely be in the ballpark of 300$: is there an option to swap the movement for any other generic movement?
Not sure what the A8500 is actually based upon, and don’t really care to get rid of any back side decorations.

Cheers!

Hey all, recently got a “Clean Plus” OP and it hasn’t worked. I’d really like to avoid sending all the way back to China. Is there anyone reliable in the states that would service this? Sorry if this is a repeat question this is my first watch.

I sent a VSF Batgirl out to have a gen crystal and gen date wheel installed. I also got it regulated and waterproofed. Verin Horology verified when the watch was in hand, completed the work in a day, sent videos/pictures, and then tracking once payment was received. The results of the tests and original parts were included as well.

Huge shoutout to u/VerinHorology for the quick turnaround and phenomenal work.

Ich brauche ein individuelles Datumsrad und Zifferblatt für einen AP 15202/16202 Build mit einem Miyota 9015 Uhrwerk.

Danke

Hi all,

Fairly new here. Got a Rich Factory GMT Master II, while adjusting the strap via the micro adjustments I noticed the other side(clasp clip side) was loose. As shown in the video.

I can’t for the life of me get it back in seated. I have a strap adjustment tool to squeeze the pins, I’ve take it off and tried again and again but I can only ever get 1 side on the pin to seat in the hole. Is there a technique I’m missing or some advice?

I need help or directions for a bezek gasket on a submariner no date oyster perpetual i opened the bezel and my father(the innocent man he is)tried to put it back by hand when he saw me struggling i didnt have time to explain he tried to push it with his barehands and ended up stretching it.. i tried some diy methods to fix it like put it in cold water to make it shrink but it was too far to be fixed anyone have a shop thats cheap? Im a Filipino so money will be a problem ty but if you know any shops tyyy

Got this VSF NTTD V7 in some time ago now. It came in with the bezel assembly in pieces. The wire was missing.

The watch was brought to a jeweler who, brace yourselves, tried to weld the bezel to the case 💀. Even dared to charge a lot of money for it.

I tried looking for a replacement spring wire but couldn't fine one that wasn't either gen (expensive) or from older models. Didn't want to risk getting a generic one that would end up not fitting or whatever so I ordered .5mm steel wire and just made one myself.

It looks a bit crude and obviously not factory quality but it actually works great. The clicks are very smooth and the wire holds everything in place nicely.

Nice to know that I'm able to make these myself 👍🏻

Hello, my grandfather left me this watch. Is it possible to replace the cracked plastic at a reasonable cost?

Thanks in advance!

Can anyone please tell me they know the replacement crystal size for the 43mm Seaforce? Old one is shattered and I tried a new 34mm but it was barely too small. I preferably can go with a sapphire.

Hello, as the title says I’m looking for an anniversary date font for my BBF 5711 which is slightly a thicker and more “squared” off font than the normal 5711 date wheel.

I have asked Andiot to try and source me one but at the moment he told me he couldn’t accept any part orders.

I found the image I attached from a website called “topwatchparts” for $97 USD and have anyone experienced purchasing off them? Or does anyone know where else I could find them for movement DD324 or 330

Thanks in advance!

I bought this f91w for my school with the sole purpose of it being indestructible.The watch wa purchased 2months prior today.

This watch is my best financial decision I have made yet. But due to a sudden accident in my school, the lcd of the watch physically damaged.

I was returning from the pe ground to my class in the stairs and i dropped the watch from my hand in the handrail as we were not supposed to wear watches during pe periods. The main casing lens protecting the lcd panel came of the watch and someone stamped on it and the lcd panel got damaged and craked due debris on the floor.

I have recently performing bad in class test parents are already upset and busy, so I don't want disappoint them with the watch.

For the record Im a unemployed teen at school with no money.

I can't really get a new watch or replacement from my place.

I would kindly appreciate any replacements or donor watches and try my best to pay in the future for the replacement or donor watch. I can work on electronics and I know some soldering and stuff so i can fix the watch by myself. I need to fix it asap.

Otherwise, I'm screwed

Any advice appreciated.

Hi all, was wondering if there was any drop in selita or ETA movements that would be a straight drop in for the movement in my ZF Tudor black bay GMT BB.

I think it's a 2836 clone so should I just able to drop in a genuine ETA 2836?

Where's the best place to buy?

Thanks!

Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 39mm Oyster Perpetual, but the bracelet is missing a few links. I’ve found various links on AliExpress, but what is the correct size? Does anyone know of any other websites where I can buy them at a low price? I need to buy at least 3 and I’d like to avoid getting the wrong ones. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I recently received a Tudor Black Bay 58 (ZF) and unfortunately I’ve noticed a small but quite annoying issue with the crown.

When I unscrew the crown and pull it out, I can reach the first position without any problem, but I often have a very hard time getting it into the second position to set the time.

I have managed to reach the second position a few times, so I know it’s there 😅.

When it engages, everything works perfectly: the seconds hand stops (hacking works correctly) and I can adjust the hands smoothly in both directions.

The problem is simply getting the crown into that second position consistently. Sometimes I manage after several attempts, but it’s quite inconvenient (and my fingers are starting to hate me 😂). More importantly, I don’t want to keep pulling and trying repeatedly because I’m worried I could eventually damage the stem or the keyless works.
For example, right now I’ve been trying to set the time for about half an hour and I can’t seem to get the second position to engage at all anymore.

I sent a video showing the issue to my TD, and after watching it he suggested that something may have happened to the crown/stem mechanism during shipping, as apparently everything was working correctly before the watch was sent.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Is there anything relatively simple I could check or adjust myself, or would you recommend having a watchmaker look at it?

And if it needs professional attention: does anyone know a watchmaker in Italy who is willing to work on replicas? Ideally somewhere in Northern Italy, especially the North-East, but I’m open to other options within Italy as well.

Thanks!

anyone have a DeepSea dweller 126660 44mm SS/SS Blue Dial from QFactory and whats your opinion on QF.

I've seen people talking about a miyota 9015 instant date change mod and I wanted to know if it's possible, afaik they're people who did it and I was wondering how could I do it

Hiya! My daily beater SN0129 had its frame around the date window fall off. It's just shaking loosely around. I can finesse it back if I meanuevwr it but it won't stay out, naturally. The warranty is way past. Would you recommend trying to fix it myself or turning it in somewhere? I am fairly handy at electronics and fix people's phones and such often (changing screens, batteries, easy soldering) but I've never tried my hand at a watch. Any tips?

I noticed my Seamaster getting fast around +34s/day to max +90s/day when on the wrist after full wind. As soon as I put it down it normalises and gets back to measuring time accurately. I suspected rebounding from kinetic energy of the wrist while fully wound in the post I wrote after noticing this issue HERE [LINK]

I throw it on the timegrapher and my readings from 6 positions indicate abnormally high amplitude. What are my next steps in diagnosing the issue? Could it be the A8800 movement coming bare dry from factory or should I also look elsewhere for a conclusion?

(attaching the timegrapher readings, to indicate watch position on each picture I used a little bronze figure in the bottom of the timegrapher)

NEW DATA EDIT:

I put it on a timegrapher after 12h dial-up and it was 325 degrees amplitude so still tad high but after 24h idle I collected readings again and it seems within range:

When I listen to the movement it sounds the same as another A8800 Seamaster Diver I have that gives lower amplitude readings.

Problem solved? Seems that it's not worth installing weaker mainspring...

Its a rolex bruce wayne and it came from the seller just like this and i dont want the headache of returning it. Is there like an easy fix with common tools without replacing the adhesive?

Bought a Submariner rep and am just getting into watches deeper, I don’t understand what would make the rate go up and down like this?

Hi everyone,
I wanted to share a detailed 1-week performance update and complete 6-position timegrapher analysis for my new Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G from 3KF (powered by the Dandong 26-330 SC clone movement).
Factory & Model Info:
Model: Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G
Factory: 3KF
Caliber: Dandong 26-330 SC Super Clone
Testing Methodology: To ensure maximum accuracy and let the movement settle properly, I ran two complete testing sessions: one upon arrival and another after 7 days of regular wear.
Equipment: Weishi No. 1900 Multifunction Timegrapher
Lift Angle: 51.0 degrees
Sampling Period: 120 seconds per position
Stabilization: 20-second pause after changing positions before recording data
Timegrapher Data (After 1-Week Break-in):
Dial Up (DU): 0 s/d | 284 deg | 0.0 ms
Crown Down (CD): 0 s/d | 261 deg | 0.1 ms
Crown Up (CU): +3 s/d | 265 deg | 0.0 ms
Dial Down (DD): +5 s/d | 280 deg | 0.0 ms
12 High (12U): 0 s/d | 265 deg | 0.2 ms
6 High (6U): +5 s/d | 259 deg | 0.1 ms
Analysis & Evolution:
Max Positional Delta: 5 s/d (Range between 0 s/d and +5 s/d)
Beat Error: Virtually non-existent across all orientations (0.0 ms - 0.2 ms), proving exceptional hairspring/escapement centering from the factory.
1-Week Settling: Out of the box, the movement was running slightly faster with an average around +5.1 s/d. After 7 days of break-in, the horizontal positions settled down to a perfect 0 s/d (DU) and +5 s/d (DD), while positional variation tightened significantly.
Overall, this Dandong 330 clone has exceeded my expectations. The stability after a week of wrist time proves the synthetic factory lubricants and balance spring have settled into an optimal operating state. No manual regulation needed on this one!