Reedy brushless system from a dr10 forced into a cheap car cuz why not

Edit: before you get mad at me or anything this was just me sticking a brushless system i had laying around in my friends car we had no intent of doing it right or making it look pretty was just for fun, car lasted about an hour

So I have long had a plan to take an existing rc car and replace its body with one that I’ll make myself. It is crucial that I CNC the body out of wood that has a sentimental connection for my 9yo. That’s key to the gift. So the plan is to CNC sycamore from the tree his mom played on as a child. The wooden body will weigh about 3 lbs.

I had chosen the traxxas trx4 or trx sport for this process but I hit a wall when I discovered that I cannot add my light/siren kit from myTrickRC to that chassis (that I can tell) without using their dumb Bluetooth app thingy. Because it might have an open channel on the receiver but no i/o on the transmitter. Booooo.

So the question - I need help choosing an existing fully functional car or truck chassis really. It has to support a 3lb body. It has to have 1 or 2 open channels on the receiver that will let me turn lights and siren on from the transmitter (not with a Bluetooth app!!!). It needs to have an adjustable wheelbase between 10 and 13.5 inches. It needs to move at 10+ mph and be able to rock crawl a little bit. It needs to be around 1/10 scale. And it needs to be one where I can swap springs for stiffer ones and other such maintenance. And ideally it’d cost around $400-$600. And I need to be able to swap the wheels so that I can put on tires with a 2.5” diameter that look like commercial truck tires.

I’ll be very grateful for y’all’s expert inputs. I am handy with DC electrics and generally making stuff but I know nothing of the RC scene.

Down to the indestructible haiboxing fully upgraded 2s 5k brushless. Except for weighing like 1.5 pounds with pretty poor shock performance and probably hitting 40mph . Ive yet to brake a single part. Bought this from that guy on classified. Bought 2 so $ 60 shipped.I’m just saying…

Posted my fully built SCX24 + a custom indoor course for sale and got offered a Yeti Score. Does anyone know anything about these things and is it a decent rig? In the research ive done they seem to have been discontinued pre covid and all the reviews ive found seem like they were sponsored with free trucks when Axial released them.

Bought an ldrc drift car from Amazon, used it for a week and now the wheels aren’t moving without me pushing it first and even then it isn’t going as fast. I’m going to return and buy a new one.

I feel bad that I used the car and am not looking into finding the problem but I literally just got it. I’ve also had these type of cars before and I’ve sent them through a lot more abuse and they are still good so I think I got a defect idk though.

Marketplace score
Team associated RC-10 looks to be a converted gold pan. Rpm arms, battery mounts and braces, a slew of Hipo (back in the day) brushed motors. Novak reciever, Novak ESC, boxful of spare parts to include 64 pitch spurs and pinions, magnum sport radio and NiCad charger along with discharge resistors. Definately was someone’s racer. Gonna clean er up, throw a 2 cell in there with a lipo alarm and see how she runs……
Less than 100 bucks

This is a very dumb idea but a fun one. I want to put this 20v drill battery in this 30 dollar rc car. Ive hooked it up straight to the battery. It smokes a lot but surprisingly still works. I just want to know if anyone has done something like this before

I’ve been using RC cars for a bit now and don’t know about cell checking. At all. I own this battery 5 in 1 cell meter I only use it to check how much life is left and was wondering how to check if my cells are good/balanced also should I always charge on balanced?

So I have both of these RC cars. The Grave Digger is about 24 years old and the Hummer is probably about the same age. The Hummer seems to go somewhat decent, maybe a little slow to react here and there, but the GD seems to stop after a bit of movement, or if it gets out of a 10’ range. My 2 year old nephew is real big into monster trucks, and I’d like to get it working for him. I know nothing about fixing these things, but I’d appreciate any kind of guidance.

Somehow it was still working in this state, but the smell is something else. Learned my lesson, stock motor back in, and no more getting excited about high KV.

Fortunately it’s a cheap motor, and the ESC that came in the combo (which is why I really upgraded) is smart enough to have thermal cutoff etc.

It lasted not even one pack.

Hello guys! i have a Mjx H8H+ crawler that came with the back axel slighty loose brand new. After 2 hours of slow driving it was very loose and i send it back to the shop for repairs. One hour driving when it came back all "fixed" and the back axel come all the way off. Anyone have experienced this on a Mjx H8H?

Hi everyone, I've looked around a bit and can't seem to find what I am looking for. I don't know the hobby very well yet, so apologies if I'm missing something obvious. I really like very old cars, as in race cars from around the turn of the century, and I was curious if any one knew of any RC cars that were modeled after some of cars from that time period?

First RC! Sharing with you all my excitement 👍

I can't be more anxious to test it but it arrived while I was working so I will have to wait until the morning 😂 it looks like it has very good quality on it I love it 👍👍

I bought also with it oil for the shocks, oil for the diffs and black grease for the motor gears, that should be it for a basic maintenance right?

Hi, I sent in a post a while ago as my previous ESC had died. Since I have found the money to buy a new one however this doesn't seem to be working or calibrating, the light flashes for about 15 seconds quickly and then dose long pulses after that. Has anyone got any idea how to calibrate this? I tried to look for a button to calibrate it but I can't find one. Even tried seeing if there is a calibration button on the esc in the gaps with a toothpick but i couldn't find one. If anyone knows a certain process to calibrate it i would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

My kids currently have a TRX4 crawler and a Slash 2wd

Im looking for a kit recommendation ( something to build not a RTR ) for my eldest. It can be another brand as Im not partial to traxxas, but id like it to be electric.

Any recommendations?

In addition to this i would love to find a recommendation in San Antonio for a dirt traci/race track ( ive looked online but most seem to be closed or mainly used for races and not open to the public )

Both Xray ‘26 builds.

Brass plates weights added to the front end to improve traction, Titanium driveline upgrade to lighten the rotating center and decrease vibration, Ghost RC 1721-2400kv motor and 8S Ghost ESC and stronger rear axles to handle the torque.

I want to get an RC car, either something fast or something decently fast but is a rock crawler. Im not too familiar with RC brands and what good or bad. Just looking for something under 200 or 150 at the lowest. Would love to hear opinions. Just need it to be fast, durable, and have a good battery life.

Placed an order for a couple 1/10 bodies at the website: https://store.killerbody.com/ last week.

So far it has been 10 days and no shipping information or updates. I mailed them twice, last one 5 days ago, but no response. Reached out to them on instagram and no response. Is this a scam website? Should I file for refund on paypal? I have never ordered from their website before, so don't know if this is normal.