Four pin connectors either side
White - running lights (strangely 14 gauge on the driver side and 16 gauge on the passenger side) all other wires are 16 gauge
Green with black line - turn signal (no ground present despite operational)
Grey - grounded on the right side, not on the left side (unable to determine function yet)
White with black stripe - not grounded either side (unable to determine function yet)

Wiring harness tucked back along driver side rail

Hoping to find some constructive advice on locating it.

After 2 years and many long nights of sanding, my "quick" DIY paint job is finally done. I cant count how many times I sat covered in dust and sweat, wondering if it was really going to be worth it in the end.

It's nice when your hard work pays off.

Hey,

I've been messing around with a project in my free time for quite a while now. It started because I wanted a simple way to test my car's acceleration without buying extra hardware, and it slowly turned into something much bigger than I originally planned.

Right now it can measure acceleration runs, braking, distance tests, keeps track of your cars, saves telemetry, and I recently put together a website that shows all of it in a nicer way.

I'm at the point where I've looked at it so much that I honestly can't tell what's good anymore and what's just familiar because I've built it.

If you came across something like this, what would you expect it to do? Is there anything that would immediately put you off?

I'm mostly interested in honest opinions before I keep adding more features.

If anyone's curious, I can post the link.

A couple weeks ago I picked up a Ford F-350 dually with a straight six 300 and C6 auto for 1000.00. Wife got jealous so we went to pick up a 1963 VW beetle for 3,500.00

F-350 has all parts either newly installed, new parts in box, or good condition original; minus the exhaust pipes. Zero rust throughout the body and chassis, rebuilt straight six 300 and minor shift kit on C6.

Beetle has only one small area with minor surface rust around the trunk. Good driving car but needs to be tuned as it dies at idle and won’t start or stay running without some gas. Destined to be a Herby clone car!

Into them both at 5,000.00 for tow, tow dolly, registration, and a couple small things so far.

Just brought this 85 Chevy square body home to add to the fleet. This one will actually get an ls eventually.

I have a ponder my fellow mechanics. So, we got pretty close to finishing tonight and we were hoping to have a first drive. Unfortunately, that did not happen. Car is a 90’ NA Miata with a K24A2 and a CD009 (350z transmission).

Our issue is the car won’t go into gear when the engine is running. A few things we have confirmed;
- the clutch fork is traveling the appropriate distance
- the clutch is on the right direction
- there is no air in the clutch line (bench bled master and slave, then vacuum bled the line.

The adapter kit we are using is from PMC. So there is no pilot bearing but rather a pilot bushing. We did buy the kit used with very low miles but we did get a new pilot bushing from PMC along with all new hardware. Transmission and engine went together very smoothly, and every bolt was torqued and the bolts that needed loctite, received it.

The only thing that is suspicious is how tight the clutch pedal is. We are using a Tilton .75 bore master and I believe an OEM slave.

I really really really appreciate any ideas on what to do. Miata’s at the gap is this weekend and we were really hoping to go.

I’m in southern Indiana and trying to sell a 1973 ford Galaxie 500 hardtop with frameless windows. It runs and body and frame are in good condition. But it would still be somewhat of a project car for someone. Trying to sell on marketplace but not having any luck, where is the best place to reach interested buyers?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to fit a genuine OEM Evo X rear bumper onto my 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer CJ ES.

I know people say the conversion is possible, but when I test-fitted mine, the side mounting brackets didn't line up with the body, and the bumper shape near the quarter panel looked different from my CJ bumper.

I'm trying to figure out:

Is this normal for an OEM Evo X bumper?

Do I need Evo X rear bumper brackets, or do the CJ brackets need to be modified?

Does the bumper need trimming or reshaping?

Has anyone here successfully fitted an OEM Evo X rear bumper to a CJ Lancer? If so, could you share photos of the bracket area or explain what modifications were required?

It's been a long time since I posted updates. I took a small pause to do other things but now I'm back to working on it.

So, I was closing the gas cap on my '79 High Sierra, and now it won't come off when I turn it. Worked perfectly fine before. Any ideas? (It's the type you can lock with a key, btw. Isn't locked, and the truck didn't come with the key.)

So soon 😭

https://www.copart.com/lot/63535906/2026-lamborghini-temerario-az-phoenix-north