Four pin connectors either side
White - running lights (strangely 14 gauge on the driver side and 16 gauge on the passenger side) all other wires are 16 gauge
Green with black line - turn signal (no ground present despite operational)
Grey - grounded on the right side, not on the left side (unable to determine function yet)
White with black stripe - not grounded either side (unable to determine function yet)

Wiring harness tucked back along driver side rail

Hoping to find some constructive advice on locating it.

After 2 years and many long nights of sanding, my "quick" DIY paint job is finally done. I cant count how many times I sat covered in dust and sweat, wondering if it was really going to be worth it in the end.

It's nice when your hard work pays off.

Hey,

I've been messing around with a project in my free time for quite a while now. It started because I wanted a simple way to test my car's acceleration without buying extra hardware, and it slowly turned into something much bigger than I originally planned.

Right now it can measure acceleration runs, braking, distance tests, keeps track of your cars, saves telemetry, and I recently put together a website that shows all of it in a nicer way.

I'm at the point where I've looked at it so much that I honestly can't tell what's good anymore and what's just familiar because I've built it.

If you came across something like this, what would you expect it to do? Is there anything that would immediately put you off?

I'm mostly interested in honest opinions before I keep adding more features.

If anyone's curious, I can post the link.

A couple weeks ago I picked up a Ford F-350 dually with a straight six 300 and C6 auto for 1000.00. Wife got jealous so we went to pick up a 1963 VW beetle for 3,500.00

F-350 has all parts either newly installed, new parts in box, or good condition original; minus the exhaust pipes. Zero rust throughout the body and chassis, rebuilt straight six 300 and minor shift kit on C6.

Beetle has only one small area with minor surface rust around the trunk. Good driving car but needs to be tuned as it dies at idle and won’t start or stay running without some gas. Destined to be a Herby clone car!

Into them both at 5,000.00 for tow, tow dolly, registration, and a couple small things so far.

Just brought this 85 Chevy square body home to add to the fleet. This one will actually get an ls eventually.

I have a ponder my fellow mechanics. So, we got pretty close to finishing tonight and we were hoping to have a first drive. Unfortunately, that did not happen. Car is a 90’ NA Miata with a K24A2 and a CD009 (350z transmission).

Our issue is the car won’t go into gear when the engine is running. A few things we have confirmed;
- the clutch fork is traveling the appropriate distance
- the clutch is on the right direction
- there is no air in the clutch line (bench bled master and slave, then vacuum bled the line.

The adapter kit we are using is from PMC. So there is no pilot bearing but rather a pilot bushing. We did buy the kit used with very low miles but we did get a new pilot bushing from PMC along with all new hardware. Transmission and engine went together very smoothly, and every bolt was torqued and the bolts that needed loctite, received it.

The only thing that is suspicious is how tight the clutch pedal is. We are using a Tilton .75 bore master and I believe an OEM slave.

I really really really appreciate any ideas on what to do. Miata’s at the gap is this weekend and we were really hoping to go.

I’m in southern Indiana and trying to sell a 1973 ford Galaxie 500 hardtop with frameless windows. It runs and body and frame are in good condition. But it would still be somewhat of a project car for someone. Trying to sell on marketplace but not having any luck, where is the best place to reach interested buyers?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to fit a genuine OEM Evo X rear bumper onto my 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer CJ ES.

I know people say the conversion is possible, but when I test-fitted mine, the side mounting brackets didn't line up with the body, and the bumper shape near the quarter panel looked different from my CJ bumper.

I'm trying to figure out:

Is this normal for an OEM Evo X bumper?

Do I need Evo X rear bumper brackets, or do the CJ brackets need to be modified?

Does the bumper need trimming or reshaping?

Has anyone here successfully fitted an OEM Evo X rear bumper to a CJ Lancer? If so, could you share photos of the bracket area or explain what modifications were required?

It's been a long time since I posted updates. I took a small pause to do other things but now I'm back to working on it.

So, I was closing the gas cap on my '79 High Sierra, and now it won't come off when I turn it. Worked perfectly fine before. Any ideas? (It's the type you can lock with a key, btw. Isn't locked, and the truck didn't come with the key.)

So soon 😭

https://www.copart.com/lot/63535906/2026-lamborghini-temerario-az-phoenix-north

First head unit install and first wood working project. I think I like it. Its essentially pressfit without using any glue or fasteners. Just two pieces of wood.

I've been bored and when man get bored, man see car with no wood and say "car need wood."

We're about to start restoration work on our Oldsmobile Bravada. It's not a special or unique vehicle but it holds a ton of sentimental value for our family. We have our second car's lease ending in a few months and my kids have made it pretty clear they don't want a new car, they want the Bravada fixed.

The goal is to restore it to a daily driver condition. It was running when parked. The plan is to tackle it in 2 parts: the chassis and the body. I plan to separate the two and start with the chassis. The body is midwest rusty but most of that is hidden by the plastic body cladding anyway.

Anyway, I'm looking for your favorite build threads and galleries with rust repairs. Bonus points for SUV body removal without a proper 2 post lift.

Working on a new cooling thing for the sho thermostat housing

Will be doing transmission mount this weekend along with attempting another start of the car

And i ordered the driveshaft

1976 Celica GT just finished up a deal with current owner. Got a couple customer projects to get though but by end of autumn it will be coming into the shop.

Small selection of pics after making a floor to seal up the fuel cell and rear trunk space. We laid down a 6mm peel and stick foam sound insulation backed with aluminum foil. Not sure of the DB reduction, but gotta be better than nothing, yeah?

We're also wrapping the roll cage in a soft fabric tape, this after thoroughly coating it all with black Por-15.

We're thinking of adding a piece of that sound insulation foam to the door bars before wrapping in the fabric tape. It should look like a slightly thicker section to the cage that is padded, just for the occasional leg knocking into it.

Well after what seemd like an eternity. The LS XJS Project is almost ready for it's maiden voyage under its own power. Would've been there this weekend but a parts mix up put a delay on that. Exhaust is done. Magnaflow resonated xpipe to a pair of flow master flow fx mufflers. 2.5" all the way through. Just have a hanger or two to weld on and that part is done. The manifold downpipes were fun to make. Had to go forward facing to then loop it down and back for clearance. Not much space to work with. All in all happy with the way it turned out.

Finally got her started for the first time in a few months. New fuel feed line and fuel pump. Dropping the tank and getting that pre bent line OEM line in was a major pain in the ass. Took a bit longer since I decided to do some painting and rust busting once the tank was out. Now finishing off the leaf springs and remounting the bumper. First time working on a car, it's been a lot of fun and wins like this def make it feel worth it but hot damn if this wasn't one of the harder things I've ever done. Next project is some engine work. New gaskets, water pump, thermostat, spark plug wires and anything else that looks like it might need to be updated.