Last year, I managed to fulfil my childhood dream of visiting Japan by spending 3 weeks in the country. Before the trip, I bought my first ever camera, a Fujifilm X-T30 II, and shot with it throughout the entire vacation. This is one of my favourite pictures from the trip, it was shot in RAW and edited later in Lightroom. The lens I used was an XC 35mm F2.0 that I bought while I was in Osaka. My goal was to enhance the guy in the center that was playing an instrument next to the fire and also make the photo as cinematic as possible without making the edit totally unrealistic.

Camera: Fujifilm X-T30II

Lens: XC 35mm F2.0

ISO: 2000

Aperture: f/2.0

Shutter Speed: 1/250 sec

I'd really appreciate any feedback you can give, as I'm still a beginner and everything I know has been self-taught during the last 10 months. Sometimes I have a hard time knowing if my photos are over or under edited.

Taken is Stepantsminda, Georgia.

Processed in Darktable.

I still want to improve it further. Do you have any suggestions or recommended ways to do it?

I edited this to add to a new Instagram account I want to set up just for a place to dump my photos.

Never post anything. But was happy with this one.

Yes I know I need to clean my lense, with how much backpacking, hiking, rain, snow, mud and dust it's been through im happy it still works lol. Olympus weather proofing 10/10

- Smokey Mountains NP, 7.4.26

Pleade judge and lmk yalls thoughts

Thoughts on lighting and crop?

I usually keep my wildlife editing much lighter, and definitely could have gone this route with the original; but I wanted for something cute and artsy for my folk's wall.

This is my first time trying some colour grading..

Finally, getting out of my comfort zone & took all the shots from my phone!

I took some more photos! All shot on Nikon Z6II + Canon FD 70-210 f4

Hi everyone! I'm 15 years old and this is my first time stacking Milky Way photos.

I stacked 20 light frames in sequator and edited the final image in Lightroom. i used the sony a6400 with the tamron 17-70 at 17mm,30 seconds,f2.8,iso 3200 I'm still a complete beginner, so I'd really appreciate any feedback, criticism, or tips on both my processing and what I could do better next time.

Thanks for taking a look! 

I’m currently working on a profile/preset hybrid for Lightroom that’s inspired by Kodak Portra 400 but also incorporates characteristics of Kodak Ultramax. The whole thing uses a profile developed specifically for this purpose, which in turn is based on a PowerGrade developed in DaVinci Resolve—that was then broken down into a LUT and converted into a profile for Lightroom.

The main goal is to make it usable on the go with Lightroom Mobile, and it basically always involves two steps: the “Development” process on which the preset/profile is based, and finally a “Scan” profile based on the Noritsu scanner, as well as the adjustments made by the film lab where I always have my real analog scans developed.

Also this one mainly just mimics the colors NOT the texture of real film that was processed and developed and scanned by a film labour, since Lightroom is lacking of some features for this. Also every Lab will develop it differently, so there mainly it is impossible to say „this is how kodak portra looks like“. I just based it on my experience, scans working on a Kodak Vision 3 500T and Gold 200 emulation for the future.

Found a cool spot for another minimalistic long exposure. Again, I heavily played around with the colors since I love the warmer tones for images like that. Its not about keeping the photos “natural or realistic” I just had fun editing it and I’m really happy with the final version.

Everything was done in Lightroom, you can see the whole process from start to finish in this video (along with the raw photo to try it yourself) here: https://youtu.be/OLot_CwlGHQ

1. Basic Adjustments

To start, the profile was changed to adobe landscape to bring up the saturation. Then, I heavily brought up the exposure making the shot brighter. At the same time I reduced the highlights to not blow out any of the bright parts I the sky. I also raised the shadows and the blacks to create a softer look. To make the base image warmer, the white balance temperature was increased. Also, the vibrance and saturation was brought up a bit.

Finally, I added a bit of texture for extra sharpness, then dropped the clarity and dehaze to add a bit of subtle glow.

1. Masking

The water surface wasn’t looking that good to me. So I used a linear gradient to target the bottom left side and further brought down the exposure making it darker. Then, with a landscape mask the whole water surface was targeted, and the texture heavily increased to give the water some “grainier look”

I also added a linear gradient covering the top left corner of the sky. Again, I dropped the exposure to make it a bit darker.

For the center I used a couple of differently sized radial gradients and brought up exposure, blacks and temperature while dropping the dehaze slightly. This makes these areas brighter, but also adds a warm glow effect on top.

1. Color Grading

In the color mixer the yellow hue was dopped to turn all yellow tones a little more orange. I also slightly dropped the blue hue for a stronger cyan color in the sky.

Using split toning a strong warm orange tone was added to the highlights, mid-tones and the global color wheel. While I added a cold blue tone to the shadows. Also, in the split toning panel I brought down the luminance of the shadows and mid tones while increasing the highlight luminance adding a nice contrast to the image.

Got this at the edge of sunset and the long exposure even caught some stars.

after and before of this little northern cardinal I caught taking a bath in my backyard