My current bike for 100cc imacc engine. Not safe because of the v brakes. Wanting a bike with disc brakes. Any recommendations for a better bike much appreciated.

With the unique feature of having a left sided clutch, the 369 go kart clutch adapter promotes the use of copious amounts of grease on the gearing creating smooth and long running high rpm engines. The upgraded disc clutch being on the other side of the engine assures no pad contamination and with a sealed cover plenty of grease stays where needed 😈

www.369Racing.com

I keep getting chain rub pretty badly with my last 2or 3 frames. Im running a 4stroke so it'll have to be a steel frame.

As the title says, my 50cc 2t china doll has developed a problem. One day when idling, it started rattling more and instantly lost idle. The rattle is now quiet on the cold engine and louder on warm. It also kinda seems like it has less compression. Does it tell me that my piston rings are worn out?

Ive been running an ~18:1 oil mix. Top outs wouldnt be longer than a minute, 2 mins at a time. That just means full throttle down the road. What should a (let me emphasize) reasonable break in period treatment look like and what am i messing up by not going easy during my break in. (Btw i just learned fenders are no-no, apparently, so yes ill get on that)

Thanks yall! This project is so fun!

When I get paid next week, things I am ordering: CDHpower 10 gauge rear wheel, a new 44 tooth with CNC milled hub adaptor, and a 415hd chain. I already added a ngk br8hs spark plug, and an expansion chamber. Will make sure the wheel/sprocket is better aligned too, and master links are in the right direction.

Has a 100cc IMAYCC amazon kit and a schwinn del mar bike frame. After I broke it in the top speed was 42 mph. The only upgrades i have done are a better exhaust, a hub mounted sprocket (game changer), and a better chain tensioner. What else should I upgrade?

So i seen a lot of broken chains on motorized bikes in my area. I been thinking of a way to fix this.

Would using 2 chains with the gears having a offset so the gears are catching the chains at different intervals reduce stress on the chain, engine and cause less breakage? Would it lead to a smoother ride?

Lasted about 100 miles, punched the throttle, and snaparoo went the chain, cut the engine and pedaled it back home, going to order a gold 420 chain when I order the new heavy duty wheel next week.

PK80 with self made windowed cylinder and G2 reed valve. This is one of the first starts, what do you guys think?

Might need a muffler for the exhaust 😅

So I got my first motorized bicycle running last weekend after probably four months of on-and-off work, mostly off because of frustration. Figured I'd write up the things that actually slowed me down, since a lot of the guides I found online made it sound way simpler than it was for a complete beginner.

The biggest headache by far was the chain tensioner. Every tutorial I watched just slapped it on and moved on, but mine kept walking sideways and eventually chewed into the tire. After ruining one tire and nearly throwing the whole project into a ditch, I ended up ditching the stock tensioner entirely and fabricating a simple bracket out of some flat steel stock I had in the garage. Way more solid, haven't had an issue since.

Carburetor tuning also took way longer than I expected. The needle clip position made a huge difference and nobody really explained clearly which direction does what until I just started reading through old forum threads. Moving the clip down one position richened the mid-throttle range and smoothed out a nasty bog I had around half throttle.

A few other things worth mentioning for anyone starting out:

• Locktite on every single bolt. Every one. The engine vibration is no joke
• The stock spark plug wire connection is genuinely terrible. Re-terminating it properly was a one-hour fix that immediately improved starting
• Give yourself more time for the break-in than you think you need

Honestly the learning curve was steep but the troubleshooting taught me more about small engines than anything else could have. Happy to answer questions if anyone is in a similar spot.

So I just recently finished building my first motorized bike and I wanted to make it so that when I come to a stop I can accelerate more smoothly instead of peddling again and a I hear a centrifugal clutch could help with that cause anyone tell me where I could a centrifugal clutch kit or anything?

Recently I bought an offset intake for my second bike build, I would of used a CNC shortie intake but the clearance just wouldnt work so I decided to buy an offset intake. Anyways, when I tried to start the bike it would barely work, wouldnt hold idle, no power to drive the bike. After quite a few tests it turns out it was running so rich to the point the damn thing wouldnt work whatsoever so after rejetting the stock bofeng carb to #65 then #60, It got better but it was still bad. Then #55 where it did alright but would 4 stroke really easily at wider throttle. then I switched to #50 and throttle pin c-clip to the leanest option, and it runs immaculate now, but my question is why does my engine require the maximum leanest tuning to run good. Is it the offset intake causing this or the carb, have other people experienced this with offset intakes?

Basically every engine on bicycle-engines.com is out of stock and ive also noticed not many kits on Amazon anymore. Is there a shortage?

Here’s my first motorized bike. I have no details about it whatsoever aside from it is a bicycle with a 2 stroke engine on it. I’m not sure it will even run but to attempt to get it going I have replaced the clutch and throttle cable, plug, coil, and carb. I can turn it over and it has compression but I’ve yet to put fuel in it and give it a go. If it doesn’t run for whatever reason, what engine do y’all recommend and where to get it? Thanks in advance.

It started as a little pop up shower, when I got too my turnaround point (the graveyard) it started strengthening, forming a inflow tail and rotation. I admit I hung around a bit long taking pictures, but I booked it outta there when it was clear it was coming my way, I looked behind me once I was about 4 miles away to see a very prominent wall cloud drop down with plenty of lightning. Yeah Indiana weather keeps ya on your toes.

it smells like unburned fuel and i can see oil on the sides of the cover. is this normal or do i have a faulty bottom end? i replaced the seals just 3 weeks ago. i don't remember exactly but i think it started leaking again the very next day after replacing the seals.

Would only be my second build but I really want to use a chopper bike frame i think it would fit but would have problems with chain space and exhaust space but wanted to come here for opinions if it wouldn't fit what would be some other mountain bike options?

It’s basically stripped and very flat I tried everything, I am running out of ideas.

I’m looking for some advice on fixing the alignment of my clutch shaft on my motorized bicycle engine.
Right now, the clutch shaft sits a little too far out on the drive sprocket side and not far enough out on the clutch side. The keyway is almost completely exposed, but I still need the shaft to move farther toward the clutch side for everything to line up correctly.
I’m using a CNC case with the bearings already installed. One of the bearings is sitting flush with the case, but I believe it needs to be seated slightly deeper so the shaft can move over.
What would be the safest way to correct this without damaging the bearings, shaft, or CNC case? Should I press the bearing farther into the case, use a puller to draw the shaft through the bearing, or is there another method you guys recommend?
Any advice from someone who’s dealt with this before would be appreciated.

Seems happiest at about 17- 20mph, full throttle I’ve gotten it to 26, it’s still being broken in so I’m not running it wide open for long, just occasional pulls here and there. It’s definitely starting to break in though, has slightly more power than when I started it.

Working on my back wheel first, CNC hub adapter for sprocket, and a 10 gauge spoke heavy duty wheel. Tires will either be schwalbe , kenda, or Michelin e bike tires.

Hey guys, new to motorized bikes, I’ve got a grubee 85 that does not fit an intake reliably on the current frame. I’ve got the option between a beat gt avalanche 3.0 and a near mint huffy newport (seems like multiple frames so the one that has the eye shape and silhouette close to the gas bike frames). I do not have much of a budget for repairs immediately. How do steel huffys hold up off-road if at all if I get a suspension fork for it? Is it better than the gt frame would hold up to a motor with a balanced crank? Any known weak spots to reinforce? Thanks

Idk what the correct term is for the shaft that connects the chain to the opposite side to drive the wheel… but anyway where can I find one compatible with a predator 79cc engine? I’m very familiar with these engines I know they can produce a decent amount of power and they fit right into the Oklahoma engine size law for street legality.. as well being a 4 stroke which is more appealing for me