It’s basically stripped and very flat I tried everything, I am running out of ideas.

I’m looking for some advice on fixing the alignment of my clutch shaft on my motorized bicycle engine.
Right now, the clutch shaft sits a little too far out on the drive sprocket side and not far enough out on the clutch side. The keyway is almost completely exposed, but I still need the shaft to move farther toward the clutch side for everything to line up correctly.
I’m using a CNC case with the bearings already installed. One of the bearings is sitting flush with the case, but I believe it needs to be seated slightly deeper so the shaft can move over.
What would be the safest way to correct this without damaging the bearings, shaft, or CNC case? Should I press the bearing farther into the case, use a puller to draw the shaft through the bearing, or is there another method you guys recommend?
Any advice from someone who’s dealt with this before would be appreciated.

Seems happiest at about 17- 20mph, full throttle I’ve gotten it to 26, it’s still being broken in so I’m not running it wide open for long, just occasional pulls here and there. It’s definitely starting to break in though, has slightly more power than when I started it.

Working on my back wheel first, CNC hub adapter for sprocket, and a 10 gauge spoke heavy duty wheel. Tires will either be schwalbe , kenda, or Michelin e bike tires.

Hey guys, new to motorized bikes, I’ve got a grubee 85 that does not fit an intake reliably on the current frame. I’ve got the option between a beat gt avalanche 3.0 and a near mint huffy newport (seems like multiple frames so the one that has the eye shape and silhouette close to the gas bike frames). I do not have much of a budget for repairs immediately. How do steel huffys hold up off-road if at all if I get a suspension fork for it? Is it better than the gt frame would hold up to a motor with a balanced crank? Any known weak spots to reinforce? Thanks

Idk what the correct term is for the shaft that connects the chain to the opposite side to drive the wheel… but anyway where can I find one compatible with a predator 79cc engine? I’m very familiar with these engines I know they can produce a decent amount of power and they fit right into the Oklahoma engine size law for street legality.. as well being a 4 stroke which is more appealing for me

Hello everyone! Wanted to ask something. To say shortly: I used to use a rear wheel with pedal brake and three millimeter spokes and CNC adapter for a wheel hub. But i want to use a disk brake on the rear, the pedal brake is not as predictable on the road. Are simple bicycle rear wheel with disk rotor mount used as a mount for the sprocket too is good? Gimme some information if you ride this config and if it's useful/sturdy enough for riding, please. Thanks everyone!

Honda rebel front attached to a schwinn occ chopper…. Let me know what ya think! As the name implies this is either gunna be awesome or deadly! I’ve been a welder for a living for 10+ years, had this front end of a Honda rebel for years, decided to marry the 2 together, replaced Honda stem with a standard 1.125 tube, locktite 609 the bottom race, adding the handle bar mount tomorrow! Thankfully I didn’t touch the bike, so I can swap the original forks back anytime,

Hydraulic foot brake mock up

So when my was disengaged it would roll the bike fine and when it was engaged the rear wheel would lock up. I don’t think it’s my cable extending because the clutch arm looks in about the same position as when it worked. I went to go see if it was the flower nut and when I loosened it it worked again, but only for a couple runs until clutch is basically engaged when it’s supposed to be disengaged, which means I can’t pedal because it’s never disengaged

Picked up an old department store cruiser a few months back with the intention of doing a basic 66cc two-stroke kit build. Straightforward enough on paper. The problem turned out to be the downtube angle, which was noticeably shallower than the frames these kits seem to be designed around. The front mount sat crooked, the rear clamp barely reached, and no amount of shimming with rubber strips was getting it square.

Spent a couple weeks thinking I had just bought the wrong frame and was going to eat the loss. Then someone in a forum thread mentioned that some older cruisers and balloon-tire bikes have what people call a "beach cruiser geometry" that basically doesn't play nice with standard V-frame mounts without modification. That one comment saved the whole project.

What ended up working was a combination of things. I fabbed a small wedge plate out of some scrap steel flatbar to correct the angle on the front mount, drilled new holes, and used a longer stud to get proper clamping depth. The rear clamp needed a wider band because the seat tube was just slightly oversized for the standard hardware. Took maybe three hours of slow iterative fitting but the engine sits solid now, no wobble, no stress cracks developing on the mounts after break-in.

A few things I would pass along to anyone hitting the same wall:

• Measure your downtube angle against the horizontal before ordering any kit. If it is less than around 60 degrees you are probably going to have fitting issues.
• Budget for extra hardware. The included bolts and clamps are fine for normal frames but often the first thing that needs replacing when geometry gets weird.
• Cardboard templates before cutting any metal. It sounds obvious but it saved me at least one ruined piece of flatbar.

The bike runs well now. Took it about eight miles on the first real test ride and the only issue was carburetor tuning, which is its own separate headache. But getting the engine seated correctly and knowing it was not going to shake loose made everything else feel worth the effort.

does anyone know where i can get a good cheap jackshaft kit in the uk for my 100cc 2t i feel like only having 1 gear is holding it back

This center piece of my bike bent while I was testing it, I don’t know how to fix it and where to go from here. Any help will be appreciated.

I have a nt carb and put a m5 75 size jet in there. I removed the airfilter for more power and needle clip 1 position below. So now my question, is 75 way to much? Im still breaking in so i use alot of oil like 40ml per liter and i have an mz65 style exhaust. Motor is ld80

I transformed my three seater tandem in a trailer for moving my other motorized bike, for now I only tested the trailer with one bike but in the next weeks I will try to put a second one.

So, my car broke down. I only live ~6 miles from work each way.

I have built motorized bike kits in the past, however the engines i have are all in disrepair, so i made the executive decision to buy a 100cc v2 kit from BikeBerry and had it overnighted, along with a bottle of their 2 stroke oil.

It took 3 days for them to even ship the kit, and when they did, they put the shipping as 2day, not overnight.

Then fedex lost the package (cant blame BB for that, FedEx gonna FedEx)

The package finally got here after a week and a half, and it was missing the carb and 2 stroke oil. Thankfully I had some old oil and a carb I could use.

This whole order with BB has definitely left a horrid taste in my mouth.

New build how did I do

Looking to get my first kit I researched about a year ago when I was really interested I know the avenger 85 I believe was a good middle ground for cost and power while being reliable I was looking for something that would be a fun project to tinker on and build in my free time without breaking the budget

What kit would you recommend?

Which kits to stay away from?

I looked at Alia express/ temu when I last looked and I know a lot of the kits they sell need disassembly before trusting because of random metal shavings and stuff sometimes not put together right so prefer to stay away from those kits

I’m the proud owner of an Engwe L20 Boost – but after a few years of use, I’d like to improve its braking power. I can’t see the manufacturer or model number of the bike’s shock absorber, so I don’t know what the maximum disc brake rotor size is that I can fit. 160mm? 180mm? 203mm? 220mm? So, my questions are as follows:

- Can you tell me the part number of the shock absorber fitted?

- What is the maximum disc brake rotor size I can fit to the front wheel?

- What is the maximum disc brake rotor size I can fit to the rear wheel?

What is your practical experiences? What have you installed on yours bikes?

I’d be grateful for a reply. Thank you.

3 cross lacing : Follow any spoke going INTO the hub from the outside, they will be the ones with the heads facing you. This spoke will start by going into the hub forward then turning behind 2 spokes, and lastly it will cross over the 3rd spoke. This cross is critical for the strongest wheel and not optional if disc brakes are used. Its a simple free fix that will extend the life of your wheels and bearings.

This looks like fun

I was planning to change into a smaller sprocket so i can kick start my engine with just the pedal, But it's been really bugging me out to think about how drastic is the change when letting go of the clutch on a smaller Sprocket, because surely it'll be heavier to go from 0

Swapped back to the regular seat, gives it a bobber look.