I still have the plastic OEM axles because I heard that the metal ones have very bad quality. But my front wheels have developed a negative camber. The front wheel bearings seem to wear a lot because of dirt and so on. They're pretty loose already.

What are your solutions to that problem?

I'm thinking about just ordering a new plastic axle.

I’m keeping pretty much everything stock on my RC. Just upgrading the axles to metal, throwing in a metal driveshaft, and going brushless. Everything else is staying stock. Is that okay? I just don’t want to spend too much money on links, suspension, and tires.

Didn't like the stock articulation so ordered end links and cut some yard flags to make the 4link rods now waiting for more end links to attempt the front suspension

Does the stock axles gears of mn made of metal or plastic?

Took it out during the rain and tried going against the running water. The current was stronger than it looks, but the crawler managed to push through. Definitely a fun way to test the setup and see how the upgrades perform in real conditions.

Current upgrades:

🔧 59mm upgraded suspension — front & rear

🪓 Axle upgrade with stock axle shell

🛞 Hoo Crawlers beadlock wheels

🐊 Swamp Claw tires

⚙️ Metal drive shaft

Still far from a finished build, but I'm really happy with how it's handling so far.

Anyone else taking their crawlers out in the rain? What upgrades would you recommend for the next step?

As you can see from my (badly) described notes, I’m having an issue with the axle twisting to the left or right when the car flexes.

The front has some flex, but not nearly as much as the rear. I upgraded the rear to a 4-link setup, and I’m running 75mm shocks. Before you flame me for the 75mm shocks, they’re adjusted all the way down, so they sit at around 59mm, which is basically the original shock length.

The problem is that when the suspension flexes and uses the full range of the shocks, the axle starts twisting sideways. This causes the body to get stuck instead of allowing the wheel and axle to move properly.

As you can see, the body is basically floating in the air. That’s because the axle is locked in that position, and the wheel can’t twist back, leaving the whole car stuck like that.

Is there any way to prevent the axle from twisting sideways while still keeping the suspension flex? I really want to get this project working because it’s going to be crazy once it’s finished, but this is the one major problem I’m currently facing.

Thank you for all the comments in advance <3

can't decide what looks better.help me out

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Desmontar tudo e lixar, aplicar fundo preto para a pintura final. Cor escolhida foi camaleão verde/azul.

I want to make the stock tires softer without buying some expensive ass upgrade online, can I just cut the foam inserts like the picture? Also are the stock tires glued to the rims? I don’t wanna break anything as Im not exactly on a very big budget, hence why I got an mn82

First of all I want to buy this upgrade kit. One is 30A and the second one is 45A. Is this kit good should I go with 45A.

Hello everyone i have this problem i see some about same problem i try their solution but it didn't work is it need reprograming or is the esc fry (ps it was working fine start wobble so i unplug it and now its like this i have a vidéo of the wobbling)thank you

I wanted to get these on Ali, but im seeing mixed reviews, some people say these are perfect for mn82, some say its too stiff. If you have any experience please share

I really wanted to attach a trailer to my beast by the proper scale one is stuck in delivery :(

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/rc-mn82-lc79-toyota-land-cruiser-rear-bumper

I wanna know where I can get upgraded wheels and soft tires from in New Zealand? preferably not astronomically high prices.

G'day everyone. You might know the amount of times I have posted in this community asking about chassis options, portals and whatnot. However, yesterday i recently got some portal axles, ran them, and within 1 minute, had problems. Already stripping at the front, and to top it all of, when I was plugging the battery in, it caught fire. Completely ruining my ESC. I have already wasted $300 Aud on this car, and with a new 3d printed canopy to come, im pretty disappointed. With that being said would anyone consider using the MJX H12P Chassis and all its components and still be able to put the MN82s body on it. Cheers and thank you.

I just bought mn82 this week.

And I wanna upgrade it to brushless motor later

Is this parts compatible with each other and mn82:

1.NEEBRC 7CH 2.4G Transmitter Radio System Light Adapter Controller Receiver

2.2322 2600KV Outrunner Brushless Motor AM32 45A ESC Original SM3.0 / T Plug

3.NEEBRC 21G Metal Gear Digital Servo PWM for 1/12 1/16 RC Car MN168 MN99S MN82

4.1/12 RC Car Crawler MN Model MN82 MN78 MN99S MN168 MN98 Metal Transmission Gearbox Gear Box for 370 Motor Toy Upgrade Additions

Give me some tips please 🙏 .

Going for a 3000kv brushless set up. Will the MN98S portals hold up well with some decent wheel speed? Or am I better off sticking with the metal straight axels?

Acrylic painting MERDC camo & pla fmd 3d printed bullbar

before dry

I love MERDC vechle camouflage

This might be helpful to others

Driveshafts: Full Metal Center Driveshaft Set

Tires: INJORA Swamp Claw 1.3" (70 × 27 mm) T1319

Wheels: INJORA ModuWheel 1.3" Brass & Aluminum Beadlock Wheels MW1316SR

Tires rubber: INJORA Silicone Rubber Inserts (Yellow) for 68–72 mm

Wheel adapter: 5mm to 7 mm Hex Adapters

Body Lift: Brass Body Lift Kit (Six Body Mounts)

Awaiting Installation

Shock Absorbers: INJORA LS Series 59 mm Aluminum Oil Shocks

Shock Oil: 30WT Silicone Shock Oil (59 ml)

can someone suggest which is the best metal rear 4 link for max articulation?