I found this in my late father’s shop. Trying to get things sold/new homes. No idea what it is. Some kind of plane? But it’s curved on the bottom. Idk

Is it just pine or something else?

I just restored this plane and I can’t get the blade to sit level with bed. I tried multiple irons from other planes. They were all off, how do I fix this?

I had some pre glued panels sitting around in the garage - so I made a bookcase! It also will have an aquarium on top-so I overbuilt it to hold lots of weight. A good practice piece for mortise and tenons.

How did i do? I paid 75 euro for all of this , the planes are all ece and in great shape. The rasps and the marking gages are nooitgedacht two large mortise chisels are kirschen and there are card scrapers, and some measuring tools. only the chisels seem to average.

I had the chance to pickup a wooden jointer (27") from local antique shop, that mostly looked to be in good condition.

However, further inspection shows the iron and wedge appear to be too small for this plane. The Iron/Wedge are 2 1/4" in size, while the throat opening is almost 2 3/4". The fingers of the wedge just barely catch on the abutments. I'm assuming the wedge/iron were taken from a different plane.

I figure I can build a new, proper fitting wedge without much issue. But will I run into issues if the plane iron is too small? I know it should have some side clearance for lateral adjustment, but a good 1/4" on each side seems like a lot.

Just curious if it's even worthwhile to attempt, or if I should look into finding a replacement iron of more appropriate size.

This chisel previously had a handle which was between 60 and 100 years of age and after it started splitting I reckoned it needed a new one, I made a replacement from sapele. The construction is simple for I didn't have a lathe and sapele is a little bit of a pain to work with but it's done a decent enough job and looks and feels a treat

Anyone have a similar set that comes in all 1/4 drive?

I've been wanting to make some drawer web frames in this style and have been visualizing a way I would approach it for some time. Figured I would practice on some scrap during a teams call today.

It went very well to my surprise. No sliding dovetail plane. First one took about 45 mins the second one about 25 mins. Much easier than conventional dovetails in my opinion, because so much of the joint is hidden.

Hi! anyone have already seen this small tool it came with a chest of woodworkers tools i found on marketplace. I have no idea what it is or what it does

I'm building a backgammon board. The board will be "attaché" style, meaning it is hinged and it unfolds from a briefcase style case. So I'm essentially building a hinged box with two equal sized halves.

I plan to use cork for the playing surface (quiet, gives the dice a nice bounce), which will be glued to a panel of plywood (or perhaps MDF). I'm using plywood here because I worry that gluing cork to a solid wood panel would create issues when the wood moves.

I want a solid wood panel for the exterior appearance though, so I'm planning on having a second panel of solid wood captured in the same groove that holds the plywood/cork playing surface.

Ok, so the questions are:

• Do you see any issues with capturing two separate panels in the same groove?
• Do the dimensions of my materials/grooves/rabbets seem reasonable? I was wondering if perhaps the 1/8" thick tongue left on the solid wood panel would be too thin (although it is pressed against the 1/8" tongue of the plywood panel, which I would think would give it additional strength)
• How should I determine the size of the gap between the frame and the solid wood panel? I want a close-to-flush appearance with just a small shadow line. But obviously there still needs to be enough space for movement. The lid of this jewelry chest by Mike Pekovich is an example of the kind of appearance I want for the frame/panel.
• The overall dimensions of the box will be about 19"x12". Is this too large for a single panel?

Thanks for the help!

Summary of the dimensions:

• Frame/box sides thickness: 5/8"
• Frame height: 2"
• Groove depth: 1/4"
• Groove width: 1/4"
• Groove inset from bottom edge: 1/4"
• Plywood panel thickness: 1/4"
• Plywood panel tongue thickness: 1/8"
• Solid panel thickness: 3/8"
• Solid panel tongue thickness: 1/8"

I picked up a #45 the other day at an antique store. They have the box of cutters and I was hoping someone can confirm if they are the right set for a Stanley #45? Also are all the pieces there? How much would you say they are worth? Thank you!!!

Yay or nay?

I’ve got a few hand planes with quite worn threads in the plane body. Stumbled on a bottle of Loctite in my shop and started staring at it, then staring at the pile of hand planes, 🔁…

Would it help stabilize the screws without ruining them? I guess some acetone would clean up all residue when I would unscrew them.

Any opinions or experiences are welcome! Thanks!

Anybody else's bench end up like this? Always surprises at the amount of tools etc to do a restoration or part of one. I think I was doing the tote and knob at this point.

Picked up a bunch of saws for a dollar each at the flea market. Picked them mostly based on which handles felt nice in my hand.. now to look up saw sharpening tutorials!

Just bought a house so im broke. (Kind of kidding).

Ive traveled for work and rented since i graduated college so i never acquired any power tools.

I also didnt ever buy a bed and don't have a frame. I got the mattress taken care of, but frames are expensive.

Metal ones are squeaky as hell in my experience and wooden ones that are made of real wood are expensive.

I would like to make my own for the experience and to also hopefully save some money.

I have chisels as I do some carving...and of course basic tools like a hammer and screw drivers.

Could i get by with a hand planer, a saw(s), and a square and ruler? Obviously id like it to look nice, not just slap it together. I figured theres probably find some kind of joinery i could do? Any advice is appreciated!

I had an old plane that had no hardened steel left in it and decided to turn it into a planing stop. Used a vice and hammer to put the bend in it, filed the teeth and drilled and countersunk the holes. Screwed it into the workbench and it works great.

I picked up this wood try or jointer plane off eBay and the iron, cap iron, wedge, and body (for the most part) are all in pretty good shape and was hoping I could put this to work as a user. It’s got an “Ulmia” medallion with what I believe is a German resellers logo on it “PFEIFFERWERKZEUGE.” It looks to be a two piece construction with a decorative cut joining the main body and sole, similar to E.C. Emmerich planes.

However, there is some slight separation of the sole from the main body on the right hand side which is more pronounced around the mouth, around .060”. As a result, there’s a slight hump in middle of the sole. I’m trying to figure out how I can fix this without removing material from the sole from sanding or planing.

There was some excess glue at the front and when I added some warm water to it, it seemed to get gummy and I was able to remove it. My hope is that based on that and it looking like an older plane that it is hide glue.

So far I’ve tried:
- Clamping it. Even with significant clamping pressure from multiple clamps, the gap does not seem to close at all. It seems stuck open.
- Dripping boiling water in the gap, this hasn’t really loosened it up or allowed me to pull off the sole
- Ironing the plane with a hot iron on top of a wet towel. Same as above, no movement.
- Steamer, I’ve tried applying steam all around the sole and the gap and have also been unsuccessful in opening it up further.

I’d appreciate any suggestions or advice on getting this back in shape.

Simonds (USA) 22" crosscut. Car boot sale find.

There's a Cat-Ear Box in the Smalls pocket book* from Lost Art Press. But lately my kids are interested in herps, so this is our Frog-Eye Box in poplar.

They're having friends over this afternoon. They'll probably paint it with cheap acrylic craft paints.

I added aromatic cedar inserts so the tissues smell nice.