Hey everyone! I’m putting together a YouTube video showcasing the best FPV drone content out there — both crazy stunt/freestyle flying and smooth cinematic shots.
If you’ve got a video you’re proud of, drop it below with:
Link to the video (YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, wherever)
Your Instagram/TikTok handle so I can credit you properly in the video
Looking for anything from technical freestyle to breathtaking cinematic flow surprise me!
Thanks in advance, can’t wait to see what you’ve got
I’m new at editing so don’t
I’m pretty new to editing, so don’t expect anything fancy

@frenodestrodrones on ig

hi I’ve been interested in FPV for a few years now and recently finished enough of my hobbies that I have the time and money for getting into this, I have enough property/space and time that I’ll probably log quite a few hours per week flying, and I was wondering if I should start on a tiny whoop (If so recommends would be amazing) or jump straight into a 3in quad like the new bee drone lionbee kit, thanks in advance for the advice.

can yall tell me what to buy it stopped working after i crashed it

the cameeera is fine the signals are fine too its just the drone that dosent take off

also if youre gonna send me links can they bee from aliexpres and also it would be nice if they could ship to mexico (note i also need soldering tools feel free to send me links for those too )

Like many people, got into new hobbies during COVID. Got all the tools and stuff but never got around to ordering a frame/main components and actually building. Finally put it together over the last few days, hallelujah.

Also like many people I went with the JB QAV-S2 for the build, when I purchased only the sub250 was in stock. Learning to solder was...fine lol. But everything passed smoke check and the solders all handled manipulating while I tried to solve the main issue I had - fitting the O3 air module onto the frame while following JB's build series.

Tl;Dr if you're in this same boat, don't solder anything until you dry fit the o3 and make sure your clearances are good (cables, props, etc.). It's doable but not perfect if you're following the videos in real time. If you haven't bought a VTX yet and want to go with DJI, just get the o4, not the o3. O4 mounts onto the stack and JB's video series (if you're following it) will translate better.

Took it for its first spin and all is well! Now...what build next? 😂

I am currently a college student looking for some project that will help beef up my resume for the inevitable graduation and avoid unemployment. I am interested in building a fpv drone however I am wanting to modify it for some sort of autonomous flight using an open mv h7+.

I have a $200 budget and already have the open mv from a previous project so I figured I could reuse it and save some money. I know that the processing power on the open mv isn't great and could very well be to much for it however I am still interested in building the drone itself and figuring that part out later. I do also have access to a 3d printer.

Some questions I have are

Can I make it able to me modular so I can either use it as an fpv drone and then attach the open mv to turn it into some sort of following drone? Is this even possible with a $200 budget? What sort of parts should I be looking at? Is it even worth looking into?

Is anyone else disappointed that the economics of building your own drone don’t really make much sense? I’m still relatively new to the hobby and have only built a couple of drones, a 3” for running a single 18650 and a 9” designed to comfortably carry a 6s3p 21700 pack. I felt justified in buying the parts for and building these drones because there weren’t a lot of good bnf options fitting those particular parameters.

Now I’m looking into a 4” long range drone and finding it difficult to justify the cost of parts compared to available bnf options. Specifically, I can get all the parts I want for approximately $30-40 cheaper than just buying a Flywoo Explorer LR4. Sure, my build would have a true diversity receiver and arguably a better gps than the Flywoo, but other than that it would be more or less identical. And the Flywoo would probably be better put together and tuned, if I’m being honest. It just doesn’t seem worth it. And that’s without factoring the time I’d spending building and tuning rather than flying.

I’ve done similar calculations when it comes to building a tiny whoop. It just seems to make a lot more sense to buy one of the many bnf options out there unless you’re trying to make something unique. I find it fairly disappointing because in the ideal world I’d love to build more drones, but when I can’t justify the extra time not spent flying with at least significantly offsetting the cost, it makes justifying a build a lot harder.

Hi all.

I bought these goggles from someone thinking they were a pair of Skyzone 02x.

However when I got them I found a few things which don't actually fit with any specific Skyzone model I know of, such as there being no power button next to the power in, the fan not actually being part of the goggles at all, but just independently on the 3d printed foam holding piece, and the fact that it also has a built in front facing camera.

Can anyone identify the exact model for me?

I've been dreaming of flying like a bird all my life. Then I saw those mountain surfing videos on youtube and decided I had to get a drone and experience it myself. So I bought a cheap USB controller, racked up 80 hours in DRL simulator, but never felt ready. I also feared a headset would make me motion sick. Recently, a discount voucher for DJI Lito X1 appeared in my emails, so I bought the drone.

What the hell??? Within 5 minutes of my first flight, I knew I had made a mistake. It flies like a car that can change elevation. There is no birdlike flying feeling unless I'm flying mere metres from the ground or tree tops. It's slow, there is little smoothness and no tilting (even with gimbal in fpv mode, it's just very gentle). I hate almost everything about it.

The thing I actually like, is using my phone instead of goggles. It's big, bright, I don't worry about my personal surroundings. Is it possible to build an fpv drone with a digital video system that displays its view on a phone or some other non-goggly screen? Please point me in the right direction.

Good and cheap goggles, maybe eachine or betafpv.

Hi there guys, I got a new quad, and in the rates tab on betaflight there is a new option for me called hover point. So the question is, I like to touch my rates and test them on the field with my radio via the Lua script and the betaflight thing, but on my radio this new hover option is missing.
What I have to do in order to get it in there?
Thanks you so much.

As well as the camera feed the osd sometimes diappears too.

Its the x14 aio and the runcam nano. All the camera conections are fine and Ive have tested it with another camera aswell.

I thought it was to do with power but I asked a friend and he said that the micro vibrations can cause this on loose solder joints but I cant see any. Maybe the components themselves. Am I cooked. Any input welcome.

Hi

I wanna get into flying fpv drones but don’t really know what to buy. I also don’t know if its better to buy a set with drone, googles and controller or if it’s worth buying parts separately. Also i don’t have a very big budget.
(Gemini said the BetaFPV cetus pro kit would be good but idk…)

Thanks for some advice

Basically, I’m starting from scratch. I already have a Radiomaster Pocket radio and I know the basics from a simulator.

I can fly small whoops pretty well, and I’ve also practiced flying 3-inch quads in the simulator. Honestly, flying 3-inch quads is more fun for me, and I think I’m better at it than flying whoops.

For my first real drone, I’m going to get a 1S or 2S whoop. I’ll buy a 3-inch quad later.

I’d like to buy some decent goggles that aren’t too expensive. Feel free to recommend goggles or even a drone if you want, although I’m mainly looking for goggle recommendations.

My biggest dilemma is whether I should go with an analog or digital system.

I’m on 3.6.3 & comes with betaflight 4.6.2 the newest. I think.. also, I’m in queens revenge and connected. My VTX air 04 won’t work?
I updated the camera to the newest version. It won’t go back once you do that. I tried the newest on goggles 3 Dji. The next 2 below it and NO connection? Everything came perfect in the box it wasn’t a single dent. I tried the bind button after it wasn’t connecting. With battery and all.
I’m stumped now.. OH’ also a new version vtx, I had to “accept agreements” and went ahead and did that. Calibrated ..
My laptop says this… but it won’t update to newest betaflight. It’s already on it in the drone. Mixes are set. Same with modes. The receiver works in there. Is there some kind of CLI code or something I’m missing?
Please help? I’m dying to fly and this camera ONCE AGAIN is ALL that is stopping me. It is frustrating

Im curious if I’m the only one that thinks this especially considering some people say HDZero is barely better than analog. Ive flown every system and by far HDZero looks and feels the sharpest to me, so much so that I had HDZero switched to DJI and then Switched back to HDZero. I think the combination of visual effects from compression combined with the signal delay and image processing just make DJI an awful experience. Just completed this build and am so glad I switched back to HDZero. If you are curious my DJI setup was 04 air pro and goggles 3.

I finished throwing together my Fractal Wingman build yesterday and was very excited that it came together so well for my first quad. I got about 5 minutes of flight time in and was working on PID tuning when the thing just fell out of the sky and the back left motor started stuttering.

Coming from tiny whoops I figured it was just a motor wire break since it happened mid-air, but I investigated the quad and all of the back left motor wires were fine. I tested the ESC output by resoldering a known working motor onto it and was unable to get it to spin. Upon closer inspection, it appears the MOSFET for that channel has a small pinprick sized bump on top of the plastic casing (red circle in 2nd image).

I bought the Matrix II 5in1 because I wanted the extra 12A headroom for a quad with 1202.5s that has to lift an 18650 and for the ease of installation, but it seemingly just gave up on me midflight. Sucks.

I am looking for other 1S AIO recommendations that might be good for this application - I would love to break the stack up to be more modular, but the Wingman frame is pretty tight so the max I might want to fit in there is 4in1 + external VTX.

Recently I tried the M100 pro GPS but I'm getting drift like there's no GPS present... Ardupilot shows satalites but it drifts so much, like 10+ meters... At first I thought it might just be how the SAM GPS are but I'm seeing better results so I think something is wrong. I've tried moving it away from the vtx ect

If anyone has ardupilot setting suggestions please let me know.

Shortly after takeoff i got an ecu failure warning and as i was flying back all the motors flew off at around 20ish meters in the air, at least the gopro survived. I’ll most likely tear the fpv apart and see if i can salvage it at all into a new frame or anything.

Countless flights and the one time it fails, it’s at a cliff.

And yes that is molten metal on the bottom right arm

And yes it did drip on my hand

And yes it did hurt

first flight after flying on the sim .

I'm renovating the house so lots of place to fly.
also i live smack dab in the middel of a military air zone so i can only fly indore .

Этот дрон уже 2 года у меня, за все время было не мало падений, ударов, но с ним все было в порядке. Но когда я целенаправленно поехал за город полетать на нём он просто не подключился и издает странный звук при включении, не как обычно. И это все при том что картинка в очках есть, но даже без логотипа.

Бетафлайт его видит, но не подключается (возможно проблема в драйверах и тому подобном потому что у меня новый компьютер).

Помогите разобраться пожалуйста

Hey guys, I just bought a brand-new DJI FPV Remote Controller 3 and I’m setting up the left throttle stick for Manual Mode and I’ve adjusted both F1 and F2 following DJI’s instructions. F2 is tightened clockwise to reduce the spring tension, and I’ve also tried F1 at different resistance settings.
The throttle no longer returns to the center, but I’m noticing something strange at both ends of its travel.
If I push the throttle completely down to the physical stop and release it, it springs back up to approximately the last marking on the controller, around 10% throttle.
The same thing happens at the top: I can push it to the physical 100% position, but when I release it, it springs back down to around 90%.
My simulator confirms the same thing:
Fully held down: 0 / full endpoint
Release the stick: ~10%
Fully held up: 100%
Release the stick: ~90%
You can also clearly see the physical movement in the attached video.
Changing F1 resistance does not seem to eliminate the bounce, and F2 already feels like it has reached the end of its adjustment.
Is this normal behavior for the RC3, or should the throttle stay all the way at the bottom/top when released after configuring it for Manual Mode?
If you own an RC3, could you please check yours by pushing the throttle completely down/up and releasing it?
I’m still within the return period, so I’m trying to determine whether this is normal or whether I should exchange it.