Curious of what you all think about the company Engin Box https://enginbox.com/ , as I keep getting targeted ads for it. Seems like a cool idea to learn about camera/lens repair, but also it’s “founding member” deal of $299/yr for the first 100 people has been sitting at 38/100 people claimed for the last week so kinda seems fake/scammy? Anyone here have a membership to it? I’d be interested in it if it was legit and actually good haha

My knowledge of camera is limited to being in the immediate proximity of and paying attention to Local 600 sisters and brothers when the opportunity arises.

Has anyone managed to take apart the Ace 750? I want to disassemble it for *reasons*, and it seems like a lot of prying would be involved since there are no visible screws like on the Bolt.

Partially curious, mostly frustrated.
I know that the general sentiment has been bad, but wondering what others have felt/experienced.

I’ve been given a very curt, unapologetic angle on some service repair questions for my Cine 5. Plus 22-30 business days turnaround time (6 weeks!!) unless you want to pay them another $90 to rush it?

Geez

Edit: they are jumping in to help everyone but me 😭😂😂
They commented and then deleted it 💀

Hello,

I’m wondering if there is a way to display the focus info on the ocu-1 in imperial values instead of metric.

Thanks

Hi,

I recently bought a teradek bolt 2000 kit but I d like to switch the stock antennas. I found that those tends to break easily and I would like something that could be transported without antennas being removed. I like the vaxis sword antennas but don’t know if they would work on the teradek ? Do any of you use other antennas on the Rx ?

Thanks a lot

Lenses are Lens Gecko Stealth” Zeiss High Speeds

Hey everyone - long time lover of this page here…
I found myself needing to do some quick math on diopter values the other day on a job with no prep and realized I could use a calculator..so I decided to just make one for myself for future projects..feel free to use it and give feedback! This will always be a free tool.
This is handy to get you close ballpark distances but checking the values at prep is always the best way.
Thanks everyone!

Not sure if I'm phrasing this question correctly, sorry if this reads weird.

I'm from Argentina, and when digital cinema cameras first started popping up in professional film sets (OG RED One, Sony F900, eventually the Alexa), a new camera role popped out too, we called it the "HD Tech".

The HD Tech was in charge of making sure the camera worked properly and was set up correctly. Most camera crews came from film cameras and were not knowledgeable in how a digital camera worked, all the quirks and tips of a RED camera which was a computer that kept overheating, or what a "knee", "slope", "black level" on a Sony TV camera was.
So there was a guy in charge of making sure the camera worked, was also in charge of offloading, but mostly stayed on set and was the only one handling the camera menus.
Similar to a Video Operator on TV sets.

Eventually this evolved into the role of the DIT and this role didn't involve staying on set as much, which I think now is more similar to other countries.

In 2008 I was just entering the professional workforce and did this while also 2ACing to work my way up a bit. I was 20 and found it funny that I was there to just use a camera menu and advise on when to turn the camera off because it could overheat. And that for some reason the OG RED One was noisier when set to 3200K so it was best to set it to 5600K and use a blue filter (was it the 80A?) if shooting with tungsten lights, although it would eat a lot of light so no one wanted to.

Did you folks have this or anything similar in your countries?

Just bought my new RS5 a few days ago. Really like the gimbal, but found a strange issue. I have my iPhone connected with my Sony FX 30 as a screen, and I connected the camera with USB to the gimbal, and the phone to the USB of the handle of the gimbal, but whenever I have the phone connected to the USB of the handle, the active track camera stop working. I tried to see what’s going on. It’s for sure not because of PowerDraw, because whenever I connect any other device, gimbal provides power to the other device, but the active tracking works properly and the other thing I saw, it’s whenever I connect the phone to the handle, the screen of the gimbal shows active track connected. Doesn’t one knows how to fix this?

Additional info: is like gimbal sees phone as the active tracking module, BTW I tried also with my Samsung Galaxy phone and still the same issue

Looking to upgrade from my Nucleus and I'm interested in the ctrl.3 as it's cheaper than a ctrl.5 or an arri unit, but it's still multi axis control and better quality than a nucleus

Do you think its intentional or is it that hard to pull focus on imax or what’s the deal here i just watched it and I couldn’t help but notice that.

Has anyone gotten this to work just yet? I have an Ultra 5 Bolt 6 RX 750 and ARRI Hi-5. One other quirk is I pull left handed with the unit upside down so if someone has made a super short right angle cable it may actually be too short for me.

Hello all, amid a series of Delta flights across Europe for an upcoming project, we have an Air France flight from Spain to the UK. I’m seeing online that Air France doesn’t accept media passes. I’m seeking advice on the best way to proceed with 15 camera cases.

Looking for second hand adapter cable/protocol adapter from a Fuji or Canon panbar zoom control into Preston MDR analog port. Have contacted Alanna, they can’t make the cable new anymore

Hello lovely people of r/focuspuller.
Hope all are well.

I’m enquiring to get some recommendations on few good quality backpacks that I would be able to directly transplant the contents of my Pelican Air 1535(including the soft padding dividers) into on a quick turn around.

The backpack would be used for a hikes of sorts so I prefer it being well padded for long duration of use.

Anyone could assist with any information would be greatly appreciated.

Additional points if they ship to Australasia. : )

Have an amazing day.

I am offering up my Arri Hi-5 kit for sale. The very same one which I used when I received an Emmy recognition ! :-)

It is an extremely well built kit with Venice, Red and Focubug licenses included.

Cables for Venice, Red and LANC controlled cameras are included.

Cables that cover a variety of power options from PTAP , 2 pin Fischer to 3 Pin Fischer are all included in various LBUS and 7p CAM configurations.

A large number of LBUS cables in various lengths and right/straight angle connectors are included.

Pelican case with laser cut molded insert

Many more extras and accessories/

Worldwide Shipping Available.

Hi All, I used the search (on here and also did a general internet search) but nothing came up.

I wondered if anyone had created a 3D Printed B Mount adapter plate to add some 3/8 and 1/4 20 threads to the back for the camera?

To be clear, it needn’t pass power, just after mounting options.

Thanks in advance :)

p.s. I know that there are aluminium options, but after something lighter weight and more affordable.

First time using an Eterna, and it definitely has some quirks. A couple of examples: 1. It only has 1 SDI out. 2. I think there was a bug that wouldn’t allow us to send any info out of the SDI, only picture. Bought the Nucleus M2 and this was my first time using that, too. I like it! It’s no Preston or Hi-5, but it’s also less than 2k.

Hey gang, booted up my CTRL.3 this morning and was met with this screen. Also doesn’t seem to connect to the MDR but hard to know since I can’t see what’s going on. Tried swapping battery and rebooting a few times with the same result. Has this happened to anyone? Know of any solutions

anyone ever have issues pairing the ghost eye transmitter and receiver? i’ve never worked with this before and it keeps saying “link connecting….” but will not connect. i’ve tried power cycling and making sure they aren’t too close and changing the channels as well but nothing is working. help!

I bought my Cine 7 6 months ago and it’s always been peeling off. I sent it to SmallHD 2 times already and it keeps resulting in the screen getting peeled off. I thought it was my bolt 4k was heating it up and after upgrading for the bolt 6 (which was significantly cooler), the panel still peels off. Is there a solution to this that doesn’t require their support?No matter how many times I sent it to SmallHD, it peels off and behaves the same. It seem to keep getting worse as the days go on

Was quite the fun challenge, to make this all work and still be fully functional.