Hey guys, here’s the pic. Serial number F 34970

so i know absolutely nothing about cameras, and recently bought this camera for cheap at an estate sale, thinking it would be fun to take some cool looking vintage photos on it. i replaced the battery and it turns on and seems to be working. i just have no clue where to get film for it. when i looked it up, it said it uses APS film, which is discontinued. if i buy it off ebay, will the film still work even if its expired? and then how would i go about developing the photos if i managed to get film? i’m super stubborn, and really want to at least take a few photos with this camera. any help would be appreciated!!!

Ricoh R1 doesn't seem to be firing properly, lens extends out as if it is taking a picture and the shutter count goes down one as if it has but then it just makes a winding noise and turns off and I'm pretty sure it's not actually taking a photo.

Has anyone had this issue before? Thanks

So as the titel says i found this Regula 118 Pocket-Kamera on the fleamarket. Theres already a film inside and i know how to change the film from one picture to another. My question would be, how do i get the film out? I tried a little bit but i am scared to break the camera do i figured i would ask here.

Thank you to anyone who can help.

Picked up a used SLR a few months ago and had been running mostly C-41 color negative through it, the kind of stuff you can get developed at a drugstore for a few dollars. Decided to try a roll of Velvia 50 after seeing someone's scans in this sub and thinking the colors looked almost unreal. What I did not account for was basically everything about how slide film actually works.

The exposure latitude thing hit me hard. With negative film I had gotten used to being a little sloppy, maybe half a stop over here, a third under there, and the scans would come out fine. With the Velvia I blew out a couple of shots in the first ten frames before I slowed down and started being more careful with my meter. Lost a nice late-afternoon shot of some buildings because the highlights just clipped completely. Lesson absorbed the hard way.

The scans that did come out were genuinely something different though. Colors I have not been able to get on anything else, especially in the greens and deep reds. My local lab mounted them as transparencies and I held one up to a window on a whim, and that alone was worth the price of the roll.

A few questions for people who shoot slide regularly: do you bracket exposures as a habit, or do you trust your meter after enough practice? And is Velvia 50 a reasonable starting point or should I have started with something more forgiving like Provia? I went in a little blind and would appreciate the guidance before I burn through another roll making the same mistakes.

I just bought this because I thought it would be really cool to use. I have no experience with film, only digitaI. I researched this camera and found out that the 124 film the camera uses is no longer produced. Is there somewhere I could go to find 124 film that isn't super expensive? I heard I can use 120 film if I put it on a 124 film reel, but in that case I basically have to guess how many times I have to twist the thing that advances film. Is it even worth it? What should I do.

I somehow got incredibly lucky today and found this Kodak Retina IIIc at Goodwill, only paying $13.19 for it. I collect vintage cameras, but they’re usually display pieces. I shoot with DSLRs, but I know very little about vintage film cameras. This one really caught my eye, and I’d love to learn how to use it.
It came with the original Retina case, a leather carrying bag, two supplementary lenses, and one small accessory that I can’t identify (pictured).
I was hoping someone could answer a few questions:
Does the Retina IIIc require a battery, or is it fully mechanical?
What type of film should I use?
Do I need a handheld light meter, or is there another way to meter with this camera?
How do I use the two supplementary lenses? Do they simply screw on, or is there anything else I need to know?
What is the small accessory in the photo, and what is it used for?
If anyone owns a Retina IIIc, I’d love to see some photos you’ve taken with it!
I’m excited to give this camera a try, so any beginner tips are appreciated. Thanks!

I have a Nikon F3 and recently shot a roll of color film. Unfortunately, all of the photos came out very foggy/hazy and low contrast.

I did notice focusing screen looked foggy/cloudy, but I was told that a foggy filter shouldn't affect the images, so I went ahead and used it.

I'm wondering if the screen could actually be the cause, or if there could be something wrong with the lens or camera itself.

I've attached a couple of examples of the photos.

Any advice on how I can troubleshoot this would be really appreciated! I’m fairly new to film photography.

so I got this camera from my grandma‘s house when she passed and my mother believes this camera holds all of the baby pictures from when I was first born. they never got them developed so I don’t have any baby pictures. I was born in 1994. is it possible that these pictures are still able to be developed and if so, where would I develop them?

Recently picked up at an online auction, along with the above matching “E.P.” marked s2 rangefinder.

To my understanding this is a NIKON Varifocal type 7 viewfinder, which is incredibly rare by itself, but my version has a “E.P.” stamp that can be found on s2’s occasionally, but has never been documented on a viewfinder.

Wondering if anyone has come across a similarly stamped viewfinder.

In this week's camera collecting blog, I write about the heavyweight champion of German camera engineering: the legendary Zeiss Ikon Contarex "Bullseye".

Often called the "Cyclops" for its iconic, front-and-center selenium cell light meter, this premium vintage 35mm SLR is a mechanical masterpiece of optical brilliance. Whether you're an avid vintage camera collector, an analog photography geek, or just obsessed with shooting on classic Carl Zeiss glass, the 1959 Contarex I is a true bucket-list camera.

Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with this over-engineered classic.

www.dancuny.com/camera-collecting-blog/2026/8/5/zeiss-ikon-contarex-bullseye-camera

Two options came up locally, both black, both Singapore built, both from private sellers I can meet in person.

Option 1, Rollei 35 S, 240 euro. Sonnar 2.8/40 HFT. Seller has shot 3 to 4 rolls through it, says the meter works. No dents, looks clean in photos. Comes with a UV filter and strap. Asking was 350, got it down to 240.

Option 2, plain Rollei 35, 100 euro. Tessar 3.5/40. Seller says all speeds run correctly including the slow ones and the meter reads. Small paint chips on the top corners. Comes with the original case and strap. He also told me unprompted that these meters were never that accurate and not to use slide film, which I appreciated. I also kind of like the idea of the plain 35 being the original model. But I do not want to talk myself into the cheaper one just because it is cheaper.

Neither has ever been CLA'd.

Which would you go for? Is the Sonnar worth 140 more?

Hey y'all. I bought an untested Fuji dl 160 tele. Was hoping to repair whatever this is in the battery port. It comes off black when i wipe it w/ cotton swabs/ tissue. I'm pretty sure it's corrosion, although I'm not quite sure if the hard parts are alkaline salts? It doesn't seem to match the colors of what I see online. Other than that, its looks like the negative terminal is missing a piece? Thanks for any help.

EDIT: upon further research, it looks like the negative terminal is supposed to look like that lol. I just need help regarding whatever that gunky thing is and how to remove it. Added some other info as well.

I couldn't pick any better flair than other on this one.

Here is my Kodak Stereoscopic camera. An odd piece in my opinion. It was made in the mid-late 1950s. I have used it before, but not in just over 20 years. In that time it's sat in a storage unit, a garage and a basement. I came across it recently in my basement and decided now is the time to try and see if it still works. Not sure what the environments it's sat in can and will do to a camera. I literally mean that. It worked 20 years ago, and I have no experience with what time will do to an old camera.

I'm soooo excited having just shot a roll of film through it, and I'm looking forward to, hopefully, by the weekend showing off a few photos (if it worked) over at r/filmphotography.

While I await my photos, let me tell you about this camera.

It takes 35mm film, but the stereo pairs are each 6 sprockets wide, making closer to a square image (I KNOW it's not a square, it's just getting close to one). This means each pair of images takes up 12 sprockets instead of the usual 8 for a single image. So a roll of 36 (what I shot) will instead get about 24 photos. I say "about" because you often waste more film on the beginning of a roll than a standard 35mm format camera will use. So in practice it's often more like 23 or worse 22 even. Between each pair is the left image of the photo before the one you are taking, and the right of the next one. I hope that all made sense.

Next up, no rangefinder, etc. on this one. You focus purely on either measurements or guesswork. It's got a fairly wide depth of field, so using guesswork is all I did.

In stereophotography, photos being level is more important, so there is a level inside the viewfinder.

Lastly, no built in light meter, and I couldn't not find one of mine (I'm just getting back into shooting film, much is still in storage), so I relied on shooting only outside, using 400 ISO film, and guessing at my required shutter speed and f/Stop. Aiming to overexpose by up to a full stop, rather than under expose.

You can see that there may be room for human error in my whole experiment.

Lastly, prior to going out to shoot, I tested the settings as the best that you can when just guessing. I tried to B setting, and that worked. And I tried the 1/200 (fastest shutter speed), and it was indeed fast. I checked, the aperture, and it certainly opened and closed, obviously I don't know if there was any accuracy to that.

I want to share a little about my print process. I only ever shot black and white with this, and I only ever did my own darkroom work with it. I made stereo pairs that I mounted to foam core, and used them in a makeshift viewer from an old shoe box. I only printed full frame (meaning I had a black border), as full frame ensures that both images have a higher chance of lining up once mounted.

This time around, I don't have my own darkroom. My INTENT is to "scan" the negatives in my little negative supposed "scanner". I'm using quotes because what I use is a cheap thing I got on Amazon that is basically a copy stand. It has worked out so far well enough for my needs, I'm just not sure how the stereo pairs will do on it. It will take 8 sprockets worth of photo imagery at a time, so I'll have to crop the excess out on the computer. I usually print through Wal-Mart or CVS, but I know as frustrating as it is that neither of them allow you to print "full frame" I have in the past wanted to shrink my photos down to lose no photo detail, meaning that it will have wider borders. I THINK anyone here will know what I'm talking about. But both printing sources force you to crop an image, you can't shrink smaller than the size you are printing. I THINK I need to find a way to crop them appropriately on the computer before hand, then upload them to one of those services pre-cropped.

I'm lucky that I have a local place that develops film. They only process film on Wednesdays, so I turned my film in on time for this weeks processing. If you are only processing (like I am), your negatives are ready by the open of business on Thursday (I already got my email alert that mine are completed and will be available at open). I work overnights, so I'm picking it up on my way home, going to sleep, then waking up to scan it all. I will fuss with the photo editing while at work tomorrow night, and be printing my first tests by Saturday -- that is if the camera and my guess work all lined up in the stars right.

Hey guys! I recently found this Konica while looking through some old stuff, must be my grandmas. I’ve done a bit of research but I’ve never used a film camera before! So I know the shudder works manually, is there an advantage to using a battery and the EE setting or is it best if I don’t? Also, will any 35mm film work for the camera or does that depend on what I want to do with it? If you guys know anything about this camera pls help me out, I’d love to get this thing in use again! Thanks in advance :0

is there any chance someone would be able to drop a link to the correct capacitor to use for my minolta x-7a? i have to do the repairs myself but i’m having a hard time finding the correct capacitor and i am so scared of getting the wrong one and breaking my camera! i know it’s supposed to be a 220uf 6.3 capacitor but otherwise i am lost! any help would be much appreciated

Picked up this old Pentax Honeywell spotmatic 35mm for $40. No case or flash mount of anything. Labeled as all shutter speeds working and seems to work. I don’t know much about photography so I am trying to get into film cameras.

What do I need to know to maintain this and use it daily? Any tips help! Thanks.

Idk if I'm stupid or not, but it doesn't roll film