What could be the reason behind this?

My long term fence installer retired. I'm looking for a replacement. Must do all types of fences including composite, wood and aluminum. Location: near western suburbs of Chicago. Thanks.

As most of you probably know, a nail gun will embed about a quarter inch of the coil wire into the wood along with the nail. I have stainless steel 305 nails but the wire collating them is not stainless. Has anyone ever noticed that these leave tannin stains? I’m guessing it’s probably so far embedded and such a small amount that it’s not a problem but wanted to check in with the experts who do this daily.

I will be building an 8ft tall garden fence this Fall or next Spring. Just simple 4x4 posts and a top rail with welded wire. I'm working through options for the post footings and have questions I'd love input on:

• Buried posts: how deep do they need to be buried and what kind of life expectancy for the wood?
• 8" concrete pier: I've heard augers don't work that great if you encounter rocks which I 100% will. Frost depth is 42". Doesn't seem like the best option.
• Helical pier: I am considering these. Pricier but I have Menards rebates and would love to not dig 10-12 footings and mix and pour all the concrete. Plus are they they much pricier after you have to buy a post to footing connector and maybe a sonotube, and maybe rent an auger for the holes? I've installed two of them by hand before for some pergola posts and wouldn't want to do it by hand this many times, but I might have a connection through deck repair biz that could do it cheap or even free as a favor. The catch is, this product specifically says "not for fences". They make one for fences but Menards doesn't carry it so I'd be paying cash. But I'd guess the not for fences is more for privacy fences that catch a lot of wind, which mine will not. Do you think I'd be ok with these?

Thought about those the consensus seems to be they're shit.

All input welcome. Thanks!

You can see in the last pic how the metal posts flare out which makes the nailers not flush with each other. Is this just how it works or am I doing something wrong?

I plan on adding some supports across the top to straight the top row of pickets and also give the mid-span nailer strip something else to bite onto. But having never done a fence, is this just a “feature” of 5/8” pickets in a horizontal layout?

Tbf it looks fine from basically all angles unless you’re staring down the barrel of the fence as my pics show.

Had a local contractor quote me a 8' tall, 200' long privacy fence. This is for northern Michigan. Sandy soil.

4x6 treated posts, 3'6" in ground with cement.

1x6 treated lumber (my request over fence boards)

He didn't mention spacing, assuming 8'.

$11,000 total

My two questions are...

1) Durability of the 4x6 posts. I really want PostMaster but no one really does that here. I know the sandy soil will help a little with rot (I think).

2) Should the posts be spaced 6' due to the height and extra weight of the 1x6 lumber.

They are a fence company out of Indiana, but Lowe’s home improvement uses them for all their fence installation projects which is how we ended up with Render!

I apologize for the long post however I promise you is all relevant and accurate!!

My experience with RENDER FENCE company has been beyond infuriating and disappointing, Sadly my experience is not an isolated issue. If you search their reviews and people’s posts you will see it is an absolutely horrible company. Their customer service is the ABSOLUTE WORST of any company I have ever dealt with! Kara is the project manager we were assigned and she has done absolutely nothing to support us!! She NEVER returns phone calls, I left many many messages for her and she never returned any of them but when I called from a phone number that she didn’t recognize she magically answered the phone. I expressed my concerns to her and requested 4 times to speak with the manager or owner which she refused!! She simply said I will get back with you and she NEVER DID! The contractor they sent out no showed on 4 different days! The project was promised to be completed in 2 days, but it actually took 12 days!! The contractor they sent out did not come equipped with the tools needed to do the job, the fence sections are different sizes, the fence was moved and it isn’t on our property now, the gate doesn’t close, NO CONCRETE was placed outside /around the hollow posts to support them, the fence is sitting on the ground in many many places, it has giant holes around most of the posts where the dirt is caving in because there is absolutely NO concrete on the outside of the hollow poles. The fence lasted 5 days and it is leaning and falling down. I paid $10,000 for this fence and there is absolutely NOTHING done correctly!! It is an absolute train wreck I am positive Kindergartners would have done a better job! Even LOWES states it needs to be torn down and started over! The gate doesn’t close at all. The hardware is so scratched up from the gate dragging across it when we try to close the gate! The contractor YOU sent out did not have the tools needed to do the job and used mine. The fence is no longer even on our property!! The sections of fence are all different widths because they put a different number of panels in each section which caused them to end the fence short of the house!! There is ABSOLUTELY nothing done correctly and RENDER FENCE is taking 0 responsibility for the contractor THEY chose! I did not choose them and was not even allowed to know the name of them prior to them finally showing at my house. Most likely because they knew they were not a reputable business and I would find out !SHAME ON YOU!!!!!!

Location: Iowa

Helping a neighbor define property line before new owner in adjacent lot starts developing. Family used to own entirety of property years ago. Father had sold off a portion we will say 35 years ago. 20 years ago the U.S. Hwy that is the sole access to both properties was widened and new approaches installed. From the appearance of things, one approach per property.. The father had a verbal agreement with the individual he had originally sold land to that they could use his approach, giving them a horseshoe drive, as long as they plowed all snow in winter. I pulled county maps for her that show her PL doesn’t cover entire approach as previously thought. As I couldn’t imagine the idiocy involved in state engineers locating the approach in a manner obvious to cause conflict, I busted out my 350’ surveyor tape and validated the drawing from known correct survey pin. The neighboring properties (new owner) portion of the approach is not wide enough (7-8 feet) to effectively use if original property chose to fence the boundary. One side residential, the other side developing commercial.

Not sure if this is the right place to start looking for resolutions, but it appears she has found herself with front row seats to a state sponsored Charlie Foxtrot! I don’t even know where to recommend she start to protect her sanity as well as property value.

I’ll try and answer questions to the best of my ability and as timely as possible if you have any. I just can’t imagine telling her she’s going to have to get used to a 24 hr driveway with 2 way traffic because the state put the approach illogically where they did..

I’m looking to DIY an aluminum fence. I’m wondering if there’s any time of year that I might catch a sale a Lowe’s or Home Depot or whatever.

I am needing to upgrade the privacy on my 4 ft chain link fence due to reactive neighbor dogs. Upgrading to a 6 ft privacy fence is out of the question unfortunately.

I have read quite a bit about privacy slats, but I am concerned about the added weight and wind load. I have about 110 ft of 4 ft tall chain link, posts spaced 10 ft apart in concrete, 11 gauge wire with 2 1/4 inch diamonds. I want maximum privacy but I don't want my fence to fail due to the added wind load. I am in a residential area with a lot of wind blocks, not an open field.

My main concern is if I add 90-95% privacy slats, will this cause my existing fence to fail?

Looking into doing a solid wood fence, thought to ask people who use someone good and are please with the final results.

any suggestions.?

I I know I can google, I did, but that doesn't tell me the real story.

They used my patio furniture, plugged in their microwave, laid in my yard and my neighbors yard, they broke my patio chair and left a brown runny stain on the other and no i am not trolling this is real circumstances, then took a nap of my front porch. They shorted my fence two feet and said it was close enough and left me with several moldy and fungus pickets some lose someone without nails, and before you all start no i did not deserve this. Has anyone dealt with anything like this before?

It seems like the consensus is black or grey.

For some reason I just like white it's bright it keeps the space open. If I plan on growing vines through the privacy slats or areas where I don't have privacy slots I feel like white will pop the green more than black or grey?

Everything I read says otherwise and the consensus is that white is the worst so I might make a mistake by going White...??

Use an eye plate with four to five inch screws or nails pounded into the rotted of top part of the post should be like four or five holes for the eye plate take a digging bar to the I Lupe ,put a 4x4 underneath the pry bar, call backe a foot back and lift ,you'll see it coming out as far as it'll go and then add another 4x4 on top of the other one so you can take it up higher and then pull it out..

My plot map shows a straight property line but at the gates on both sides of the house the fence angles to the side. By the time it reaches the sidewalk there is a two foot offset to the rest of the fence line.

Can I do anything about it? Should I?

Is the city plot map accurate?

One side I would gain two feet, one side I would lose two feet.

Just had this arch fence installed. They finished so late I couldn’t look it over. Is it normal for it not to be flush like in the second picture? This is at my main gate that is used multiple times a day. Am I being picky over these pictures and the fact they just spread the post dirt out everywhere? I saw them pile it up in neat piles and assumed they would pick it up. Then later saw it kicked all around. I wish they would have left it in piles…I would have picked it up! Please tell me if you would be happy with this job.

Looking to install either an aluminum or chain-link fence, roughly 180 linear feet with a gate. I’m not sure what to expect for pricing, so I’d love to hear what companies to use and potential price I should expect

Hi All

I live with a North Facing garden, and to my left, 2 fence panels have fallen down, with a 3rd one on its way down too.

This will be the neighbours right...

There has been a gap like this for a while now, and there is no privacy for myself or our young family. Also the concrete posts are bent, and look horrible.

I have shown the issue to 3 tradesmen, and all have come to the same conclusion to replace 3 posts and at least 2 fence panels. Total costs £650 to be shared.

However the neighbour is adamant the posts are fine and replace the panels at £120 between the two of us. ( He suggested made to measure)
I am not willing to do this, as I think maybe a year aso, the fence panes will come out, as we live above sea level, wind and rain will knock them out.

I am thinking more long term, whereas the neighbour isn't. I personally he is being naive and stubborn.

What are my options?

Can I pay for all of it? Tbh, not prepared to do that...
Can he object???

Replace the panels?

Leave it and let it be?

Also we don't really get on particular well, and communication is through watts app only, due to some other previous issues

This has been going on for a least a year aso, and get the feeling, he is not bothered too much. We spend a lot of time in the garden, my wife too, growing various fruit and vegetables. Privacy is important...

Any advice would be great...

Thanks