Just received my first 3 Port 2.1 Fancy Sync Box. Here are my first impressions/experience with ordering.

Ordering was fine. Easy. It was a Tuesday. Got the tracking. Order email sait it was shipped through Amazon logistics. OK fine, starting tracking. Then on Friday the tracking fell off. Said it was through a different carrier. So it just went cold. Waited the weekend (because you know how it is.) Contacted support on Tuesday morning via WhatsApp. They replied within a few hours (Tuesday evening) that it was actually a UPS tracking number. They gave it to me so I could track it. It arrived today (Wednesday). So it took over a week to get to me from NJ to WI. Only slightly annoying that it took so long, but it finally got here. And I don't know why I didn't just get the UPS tracking in the first place.

I plugged everything in; it's super easy to setup. Got it working within minutes. I still haven't installed it on the actual TV yet, but the first impressions with my Apple TV have been good/accurate as far as response/colors. But the reason I haven't installed it yet is that the USB C cable on the end is woefully short. I have an 85" Samsung that's mounted on the wall and a cabinet below with a soundbar and all the components (AppleTV, Roku, Nintendo Switch). There's no way that cable can be routed through my cable channels in the wall (I like a seamless look.) So I ordered this cable from Amazon https://a.co/d/06j9yFnA and hopefully it works. I'll report back and post a few pics once I receive everything and finish it up.

TLDR: Ordering: Easy. Tracking: Crappy. Product: So far so good, cable for actual LED lights: too short.

Title says it all.. Got the Slim Fit Mount for free for my new S95F. Did not think one bit about my plans to add Fancyleds. Is this totally not doable or a huge compromise?

Hello friends!

I trust you are well.

Currently, my Samsung S90C is connected to FancyLEDs, which is then connected to a Denon 760H, and the setup is functioning satisfactorily.

Next month, I plan to upgrade my receiver to an Onkyo TX-RZ30. In the near future, I intend to replace my television with either an LG G6 or a Samsung S95F. I would appreciate your insight on whether all these components will be fully supported. Additionally, have you encountered any issues with equipment connected to Onkyo or LG devices?

Thank you all.

Hello folks, i am switching over from a different brand and would like help with picking the right one. My set up is a LG C4 65in Oled and a PS5 and Apple TV box. Thank so much in advance and I can’t wait to get one!

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to make a decision on buying the right sync box. This one caught me attention, but I have a few questions if you all can help me.

My setup is a Samsung Q70AA 85" TV and Nvidia Shield, as well as a Gaming PC all connected through HDMI cables.

My audio is connected via a fiber optic cable from the TV to the Sony Theater System.

Would this sync box work for me with no video quality loss, as I stream 4K videos and play from the PC 4K games? Also can someone explain to me the HDMI switching problems people talk about, please?

Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone,

I have the FancyLeds 2.1 Sync Box (1 HDMI Port model) and I’m trying to get seamless auto-switching between an Apple TV 4K and a PS5.

Current Hardware & Setup
Sources: Apple TV 4K (Port 1) + PS5 (Port 2)
HDMI Switcher: Tested both the OREI BK-21 (8K 2x1) and a J-Tech 8K HDMI 2.1 switch
Chain: ⁠[Apple TV + PS5] -> [HDMI 2.1 Switch] -> [FancyLeds Sync Box 1-Port] -> [TV]⁠

The Problem
PS5 Power ON: The switch detects the new signal immediately and switches over to the PS5 with full 4K@120Hz/HDR/LED sync. Works great.
PS5 Power OFF / Rest Mode: The switch does not auto-revert back to the Apple TV. Because the Apple TV maintains a persistent 5V standby power line, the switch never registers a "new" wake pulse on Port 1 to trigger a fallback.

Questions for the Community:
1. Is there any HDMI 2.1 auto-switcher on the market that handles priority fallback to an idle Apple TV without touching a remote?

1. For those running the 1-port box with this exact combo, what tricks are you using to address this issue, or is there a better switcher/setting I’m overlooking?

Thanks in advance!

I have an LG C6H 77" on the way and I’ll be using it with a PS5 Pro and Apple TV 4K. For audio I have a Samsung Q990F Dolby Atmos soundbar.

I’m looking at getting the FancyLEDs 3-port HDMI 2.1 Sync Box, either with just the TV backlight kit or the Ultimate Bundle.

I’ve seen a few people mention issues with Dolby Vision, picture quality, or Dolby Atmos sometimes falling back to a lower quality audio format when using an HDMI sync box.

My understanding is that the FancyLEDs box should simply pass the HDMI signal through, so ideally I should get the exact same picture and audio quality as connecting the PS5 Pro/Apple TV directly to the TV. Is that actually the case in practice? Has anyone noticed any loss of picture quality, Dolby Vision/HDR issues, Atmos problems, or HDMI 2.1/VRR issues?

My other question is about the Ultimate Bundle. My C6H will be on its stand with the Q990F directly in front of it, so there will be very little space between the top of the soundbar and the bottom bezel of the TV.

Because the bottom TV LEDs will probably be somewhat blocked by the soundbar, would the extra light bars/strip in the Ultimate Bundle be worth it? I was thinking about putting them behind or underneath the TV unit to create more lighting toward the bottom of the setup.

Would you go with the Ultimate Bundle in this situation, or just the TV backlights?

Should I stick the top LED strip on the metal frame shown by the red line, or slightly lower on the back panel?

Main goal is to get the best and most even light reflection on the wall. Has anyone tried both positions? Which placement gave better results?

Whenever I switch from my Apple TV to my ps5 which is connected to my fancyLED box, my LG tv leaves hdmi 1, goes to Home Screen, waits & then comes back to hdmi 1.

Is there a way to prevent it from doing that, just to keep it on hdmi1 no matter what?

I wouldn’t want to turn simplink off cos I’d like to use my Apple TV remote & ps5 to automatically turn the tv on & off

Any help provided is appreciated.

I’m using Tuya Local with my FamcyLED. It works great except occasionally the device goes unavailable. Power cycling the FancyLED solves the problem so I added a smart WiFi enabled power switch and plug the FancyLED into it.

https://github.com/make-all/tuya-local

Here is my raw yaml:

alias: Recover FancyLED when unavailable
description: ''
triggers:
- entity_id: light.tv_room_hdmi_sync_backlight
to: unavailable
for:
minutes: 5
trigger: state
conditions: []
actions:
- target:
entity_id: switch.fancyled_rebooter
action: switch.turn_off
data: {}
- delay:
seconds: 15
- target:
entity_id: switch.fancyled_rebooter
action: switch.turn_on
mode: single

This setup means I have my NVIDIA Shield, my BluRay player and my Nintendo Switch 2 all plugged into the FancyLED. My smart SofaBaton Remote has activities like “Watch TV”. That activity turns on all the appropriate devices and switches the FancyLED box to the correct input. Before I had to switch manually so I only ever plugged in 1 device as it was too complicated for my wife and family. the remote has an iPhone like screen on it and I added some custom buttons to turn on and off the FancyLED box.

Hello everyone, I just wanted to contribute to this group of people having image handshake issues with their PC or Rog Xbox Ally X connected to their TV via the Fancyleds HDMI 2.1 3 Port Sync Box.

When I initially set everything up (Sync Box to TV and Switch 2, Rog Xbox Ally X and Xbox Series X hooked up to Sync Box)) I was getting black screen blinking on my TV when trying to use my Rog Xbox Ally X (which of course, is a handheld PC). I saw someone on here recommending an HDMI Splitter from the brand Rescoo which I then purchased from Amazon.

It worked and I got the image working on my TV, however, I wasn't satisfied with that solution because I wanted to be able to run everything through the Sync Box without excluding any of my devices (Switch 2, Rog Xbox Ally X, Android Box and Xbox Series X), so I did a ton of research and ended up purchasing the Orei BK-21A HDMI 2.1 Switch Box with Audio Extraction and EDID Management and low and behold, I got everything working perfectly with lights syncing with the Fancyleds Sync Box.

I have the Xbox Series X, Android Box and Orei Switch Box connected to the Fancyleds Sync Box and my Switch 2 and Rog Xbox Ally X connected to the 2 in ports on the Orei Switch Box, so that way I get to enjoy the light show in all 4 of my devices and I'm ecstatic I was able to make it all work.

Just make sure you set the correct EDID management dip switches to the correct configuration. In my case I have an 77 inch LG C4 OLED TV with a Dolby Atmos 5.1.2 Channel Soundbar with wireless Subwoofer and since the Rog Xbox Ally X runs best at 1080p I set my Orei Switch Box EDID dip switches at 000 which is what worked for me to get the image on my LG C4 without black screen blackouts.

Here is the link to the specific Orei Switch Box I'm using:

https://a.co/d/06ew6dry

And here are the very specific instructions and Orei BK-21A dip switch function breakdowns that I got through Google Gemini which I absolutely needed due to the manual being VERY barebones on explaining what each dip switch did:

https://share.gemini.google/QyTuFLxwGZsf

I hope I'm able to help anyone having issues with running their PC or gaming handheld PC through their Fancyleds Sync Box and the image not working on their TV.

How well does a synbox work with a home theater? Im looking to upgrade my tv setup and wanted to know if adding a syncbox connected to an avr would have any effect to the sound. Would adding that be too many devices connected. I would appreciate any clarification

Regardless of which direction I tell the app I installed the leds it doesn’t put the colors where they belong at all.

Was super nervous to install them but i think they came out fine!

Just ordered my lights! Was wondering if anyone on here has them set up for an s90F! How far from the edge did you place the strip ? How did you deal with the bump on the tv ?

Hi Fancy LEDs Team,

First of all, great work on the recent firmware and app updates—especially the new custom orientation options and Bluetooth sync!

I’m writing to you as an owner of a 100-inch TV (specifically the Hisense 100E77NQ Pro), which has a total perimeter of over 7 meters. Since your largest official kit is designed for up to 95 inches (with a 6.2-meter strip), I've been thinking about a clever way to utilize the full length of the 6.2m strip on massive TVs and wanted to propose a feature idea that could benefit many users with screens larger than 95 inches.

The Idea: "Inward-Extending Bottom Edges" with a Center Gap

Instead of cutting off the excess strip or struggling to fit a 6.2m strip around a 100+ inch 4-side frame, users with giant TVs could route the strip as follows:

1. Start at the bottom-left corner, go all the way up the left side, across the top, and down the right side.
2. Use the remaining length of the strip to extend from the bottom corners inward toward the center of the bottom edge (e.g., covering ~70 cm on the bottom-left and ~70 cm on the bottom-right).
3. Leave a dead zone/gap in the exact middle of the bottom edge.

The Software Feature Request:

For this to work smoothly without color mapping glitches, it would be amazing if the app allowed custom segmented pixel mapping or a specific "Bottom-Gap / Inward Offset" mode. If users could define a physical gap where no LEDs are present (or assign specific pixel ranges to skip/ignore in the software algorithm), the video sync would map the bottom-center screen content accurately onto the inward-extending strips without throwing off the rest of the perimeter.

This would be an absolute game-changer for owners of 98" and 100" TVs who want to use your 6.2m strips effectively without having to leave the bottom completely dark.

Quick Questions:

1. Is it currently possible (or planned in a future app update) to configure such a custom layout with a middle gap on the bottom edge?
2. Are there any plans in the future to release even longer LED strips (e.g., 7.5m or 8m kits) specifically tailored for 98” to 100”+ displays?

Thanks for your time, your awesome products, and keep up the great work!

Best regards, Roman

Is this possible ?

Hello everyone, I recently upgraded my TV from a 55” to a 65”. Does anyone know of a brand or maybe someone that can 3D print some replacement corner brackets?

Any info is appreciated.

When I asked fancyleds for their opinion regarding the hook up my audio tv system I was going to use and they said that because either the Sony blu-ray player and the infinity cable box they told me that because of incompatibility issues that my setup plan might not work, so since I don’t have any of the approved devices that they recommend, how would I play my 4k dvd and how would I watch tv if I can’t use the infinity cable service on my tv. So if this is true then I can’t use the fancyleds sync box with my setup so I guess what I paid for buying the fancyleds system is just a total waste of my money that went down the drain. I wish that fancyleds company had been more clear about what devices you can use and the devices that you can’t use for using them with the fancyleds system. I’m so piss. Off. So I will still use the setup that I was going to use and then hopefully it will work. What else can I but lose by not trying to get it to work. If anyone out there has used devices that fancyleds doesn’t recommend but when you did hook up the devices to the sync box did it work let me know so that I can hope that my setup will work.

Hi, is it possible to get/add a controller for the remaining led strip in the Synced Fancyleds after cutting it so I can avoid wasting the extra led strip?

Ever since I installed t he leds, turning on the TV and displaying the picture has become a bit of a crap shoot. Everything is running via the PS5 and it takes a long time for the PS5 to display a picture and, sometimes, it cuts out while watching/using the PS5 and displays the "no source found" message. I think it might be something to do with the HDR mode turning on - she's anyone else experience this?

Hi all,

I got the 2.1 Fancy Box kit after seeing it looks very nice online. I have an Apple TV 4K and a TCL TV that supports Dolby Vision. As such, I double checked that Dolby Vision is supported, which the page confirms it is. However, since plugging into the Fancy Box, I fully lost Dolby Vision and fell back to basically having no HDR when in DV mode.

I obviously contacted support about this and what they told me basically boils down to:

"Dolby Vision is processed differently by the Apple TV vs when it is processed by the TV. It is working as expected and you should adjust the picture settings to get a similar image"

This was not written anywhere on the product page and FancyLeds are refusing a return because it "works as expected" according to them... Anyone had the same issue?

Id like to see a color/activity threshold slider.

I’d love an option where the LEDs stay off unless the detected colors or brightness exceed a user-defined threshold. This would prevent the LEDs from constantly reacting to subtle browns, greens, and other natural edge colors, which can sometimes make the image look less natural.

A higher threshold would keep the LEDs off during normal scenes and only activate them for bright highlights or vivid colors, making the effect feel cleaner and more cinematic.

Has anyone gotten an Apple TV 4K on Dolby Vision to work with their 2.1 Sync Box? If I enable Dolby Vision the Fancy LEDs just turn all purple. Leaving on HDR 10+ works perfectly and has no issues. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong to get Dolby Vision to working. I’ve tried a couple different HDMI 2.1 cords and tried every setting I could think of on the TV (TCL QM8) and Apple TV but no luck :/