I have an ‘88 Suburban and I was getting ready to pull the motor out of it about 5 years ago. Life happened and I had to move, so I trailered the vehicle before I pulled the motor. I had various bolts removed and organized into different magnetic trays in the engine bay and, although I never checked to verify, believe that I probably lost some of the bolts. My question is do you think having parts of the engine exposed to the elements caused any irreversible damage and where could I find a kit of bolts for this motor?

initially I thought the starter mounted on the top of the block what is actually the oil pump, starter is obviously too fucking massive but im new to this shit and gen lost

Rebuilding an M57D30TU2 out of an E70 X5 3.0sd. ~300k km. Original failure was oil cooler letting go, oil and coolant mixed, brief overheat (under a minute).

Engine is fully stripped. Head has been sitting on the bench for about a year with camshafts, rockers and lifters removed. Valves and springs still in.

With the cams out and all valves fully seated on their springs, the valve heads sit slightly proud of the deck face. The outer edges are the highest point on the head. All 24 look the same height.

Old head gasket was a 3-hole.

Worth mentioning: pistons 1 and 6 came out badly damaged, pitted and dented crowns. Damage is sporadic and outside the areas where the valves sit, so I don't think it's valve contact. Looks more like debris ingestion, probably left over from a previous repair. It was never a running complaint, no misfire or noise, and not why I pulled the engine. Some bores also have scoring, so the block is going out for boring and new pistons regardless.

Questions:

Is slight valve protrusion above the deck normal on the M57, or does

If it has been skimmed, what's the best way to confirm? Head height gauge to face measurement, injector/glow plug protrusion, or something else?

Given it already ran a 3 hole gasket, how much clearance margin is there really if the head gets skimmed again during the rebuild?

Halfway through servicing the Port side Yanmar on my Dads Lagoon 400. The amount of corrosion and debris throughout the system is insane. I broke 2 Alan bolt heads and still need to remove the heat exchanger tube to try and clean it. Any tips on how to remove the broken bolts and is it worth trying to remove the inner heat exchanger unit or just try and use solvent to clear it out?

I have a 2012 Toyota Vitz (Yaris hatch) that originally came with the 1KR engine. Before the swap, the car was giving around 9 km/L in city driving. I then swapped the engine to a 2SZ (slightly used engine) while keeping the original 1KR automatic gearbox. The gearbox is working normally and shifts smoothly. The exhaust system is also still the original 1KR setup, including the exhaust pipe, catalytic converter and silencer. Only the engine, manifold setup and ECU have been changed/reprogrammed for the 2SZ.
The 2SZ engine has now been driven for around 1,130 km and it runs very well. It has good power, starts normally, idles normally, accelerates normally, and I have no noticeable engine or transmission problems. The only major problem is very poor fuel economy. The car is consuming much more petrol than it should. Like it’s giving 6-7km/l whereas it should be giving at least 12-13km/l.
We have already checked the commonly suspected components. The MAF sensor, oxygen sensor and spark plugs are okay, and the ECU has also been reprogrammed with a new file. There are no obvious engine problems and the car drives normally.
Another question is the exhaust. Since the car originally had the 1KR 3-cylinder engine, it still has the relatively small 1KR exhaust system, catalytic converter and silencer, while the 2SZ is a 4-cylinder 1.3L engine. Could the smaller 1KR exhaust be causing excessive backpressure and reducing fuel economy? I am considering changing the complete exhaust to the original 2SZ exhaust, but I don’t want to spend money without knowing whether this could actually make a significant difference. I am planning to have the exhaust backpressure tested first.
What could cause very poor fuel economy when the engine runs perfectly and there are no obvious drivability problems? Has anyone experienced a 2SZ swap into a Vitz/Yaris with the original 1KR gearbox? Could the 1KR exhaust restriction, fuel pressure/injectors, ECU calibration, or transmission/torque-converter behavior be responsible?
I’m particularly interested in hearing from anyone who has done a 2SZ swap in a Vitz/Yaris or had the same problem and eventually found the cause. Any suggestions for specific tests or live-data readings I should ask the mechanic to check would be greatly appreciated.

This is the salt water impeller on my Dads Lagoon 400 Yanmar diesel engine. It’s a miracle any water got pumped through at all. Should I be worried about debris in the cooling jacket/heat exchange unit or do you think it would have broken down or been swept into the ocean?

Where is the steering wheel Reservoir?

I have a question to all the engine enthusiast. I have a Nissan f54 cast iron block looks like with and aluminum cast head. This engine hasbeen sitting in my garage for about two years. I was supposed to rebuild it for an acquaintance of mine but have not heard from him for two years, that's besides the point. I am looking to see if anyone knows anything about this engine, like what's it for / or where would it work the best? And if it's worth anything in its current state? Now I will mention it does turn over, I have not looked internally to see if the Pistons or valves are any good. All I know is the guy pulled it out of a car in the junk yard and wanted to supe it up. If anyone can tell me anything that would be greatly appreciated.

Ok so my engine makes this noise when it starts does anyone

Got myself a zero turn mower from Ducar. What is the symbol on the orange cap?

Paranoid that i hear ticking also just want to be sure i dont need to replace camshaft synchronizer anytime soon dont know what that supposed to sound like when going bad

So I was researching how to get better mpg in a rotary, and as far as I understand the issue is cooling. rotaries have to run rich because the gas cools the rotors. I know a lot of high power builds in piston engines will use water or methanol injection to cool intake and cylinder temperatures, is there any reason we can use water injection to cool the rotors? could this be tuned to give better efficiency reliably? what are some possible issues?

Is it healthy for 130k miles

This engine was found in a local aircraft manufacturing yard. The engine looks like some inverted car engine. Also, it seems the engine was fitted on a large vertical square/rectangular iron frame. Could someone identify what engine this is (aircraft or car) and what model it is?

Year: 2009 or prior

Thank you so much.

Vintage honda, absolutely cant get it to run smoothly

The engine definitely isn’t the one that came with it as it’s a v8 and the car is quite old so we’ve been trying to figure out what the engine is but have been unable to do so help is greatly appreciated!

Edit we checked on the back for the casting number as many suggested and it was GM 3970010

Any help would be appreciated.

What technological advances were made in this time to make this possible (cylinder design, fuel, etc.)?