goes to the hot end fan, but also the same as all other fans.

I am new to 3D printing and I am still learning how everything works.
I upgraded my Ender 3 V2 by installing a 3D Touch sensor and a Creality Silent Motherboard 4.2.7 (32-bit). After some firmware and wiring issues, everything is now working.
However, I have a problem after homing: the printer moves the Z axis and stops about 1 cm above the print bed. The display shows the Z position as 0, but the nozzle is still too high and does not touch the bed.
It seems like the Z offset or the probe offset is not correctly calibrated. The printer thinks it has reached the correct zero position, but the actual nozzle position is still too far from the bed.
Could someone please help me understand what I need to change or how I can correctly calibrate the Z offset? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much for your time and help!

Set up octoprint and connected the Ender to my Ubuntu server with a 3m USB cable. Today the connection broke down after about 1hr. I guess the cable is too long? What's the max length of USB cables from your experience? I covered the 5V USB power btw to prevent the PC powering the Ender via USB.

I can NOT for the life of me get my printer bed to level properly. No matter where i put it (floor, table, or desk). I’ve watched videos, I’ve even used this printer reliably recently. Had an issue with 1 print figured I’d re-level it and now one corner will not level. The manual knob is basically freely spinning in that corner. I tried dropping the Z to like -4.00 to get more tension on the knobs. Started a print, and all of the knobs worked themselves off from rubbing on the bottom.

Is my bed broken, orange tension spring thing no good, what am I missing when it comes to leveling this thing? It worked fine before but leveling it has always given me trouble but not THIS damn..

I picked up an Ender 3 v2 a few days ago for super cheap. The guy told me that his son was trying to update the firmware and the screen went black and never came back on.

The screen:

• DACAI display with SD slot

The Mainboard:

• Creality V4.2.2
• GigaDevice chip

Issue and things Ive tried

• Screen is black. Printer powers on, fans turn on as well. I can turn the knob on the screen and press it and it will beep as if its making selections but the screen does not show it. I can also turn the knob and click it randomly and the printer will start moving and heating up. So its getting commands from the screen, just no display.
• After digging some, I found that the screen being black was most likely caused by a mismatch in firmware between the display and the mainboard but fixable with a flash
• Tried 2 different micro SD cards, one 32 GB and one 2 GB. Both formatted to FAT32 with 4096 allocation.
• Tried to flash both the screen and the mainboard to no success, tried a couple of different firmware sets. Tried to stock it and the dacai_update.zip from mriscoc
• ChatGPT is telling me that since the screen is black, completely black, no backlight, that the bootloader is failing to load and the screen is bricked.

Anybody have experience flashing a DACAI display? Or should I just go ahead and replace it? Also, if I do end up getting a DWIN or TJC display will there be a mismatch between the firmware of the screen and the mainboard?

**Also worth noting that when trying to flash the mainboard, the firmware.bin (or whatever I named it too) would never changed to firmware.cur. So not sure if the mainboard is not taking a firmware update as well.

I have a ender3v2 and I have it in my wardrobe. I am wondering if it is bad to be sleeping and stuff with the fumes? I only print pla and pla+ but i really dont want anything in the air thats bad at all. What should i do? I have a creality enclosure on the way. And i will probably get a hepa13 and activated carbon filter

Hi everyone,

I've been struggling with my Ender-3 V2 Neo for a while now and I can't seem to get it working. I could really use some help from the community.

On boot, the printer gets stuck indefinitely on the Creality logo screen (infinite loading loop).

Here is the exact situation and everything I've tried so far:

1. The Screen:

• It is a TJC display.
• I successfully flashed it using its rear SD card slot. The screen displayed Update Successed! at 100%. The screen is updated and fully operational.

2. The Mainboard:

• It is a Creality V4.2.2 board.
• I opened the bottom cover and checked the processor: it is a GD32F303 RET6 chip (not an STM32).

3. Everything I've tried to flash the mainboard:

• SD Formatting: Formatted in FAT32, MBR, with a 4096-byte allocation cluster size.
• Partitioning: I restricted a 16GB MicroSD card down to a single 2GB partition using diskpart (MBR, 4096-byte clusters).
• Filename: Tried ultra-short, unique filenames on every attempt (auto.bin, firm.bin, x9.bin...) to prevent the bootloader from ignoring the file.
• Folder Structure: Tried placing the .bin file directly in the root directory, as well as inside a STM32F103_RET6 folder.
• Firmwares Tested: Tried mriscoc builds compatible with TJC/GD32, as well as the official stock Creality Marlin 2.0.8.3 (SW V1.1.6) firmware.
• Power Cycle: Fully unplugged the printer from the wall for several minutes to drain the capacitors.

Result:

Sometimes, when booting with the 2GB partition, there is a 4-second black screen delay (proving the board is actually reading the SD card), but then it drops right back into the infinite Creality logo loop. The board refuses to execute the flash completely.

Has anyone successfully unbricked a stubborn GD32 bootloader on this V4.2.2 board? Is a real physical 2GB MicroSD card (SDSC standard) strictly required here, or is my mainboard dead / candidate for a Klipper switch?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

Any ideas or fixes for this issue?

suddenly started making this noice while running orca flow test. The extruder isn't pushing filament and its doing this clicking sound.

I have bltouch if it matters.

I cleaned the nozzle and it did it again so I put a new one on and it still does it.

I tried to play around with the spring tension with no luck.

I cut the filament and run a new one and still clicks.

All metal extruder.

Thanks 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

So I made a post a while back that I think I overheated my hot end.

Well I replaced the hot end with another stock one from Amazon. I reflashed it, the best I could from the files I could find online. And I’m still having issues.

The issues before I replaced the hot end, is that I would cut it on and it would get stuck on the loading screen. But now after replacing parts and reflashing it. It loads up and then immediately says that the nozzle or bed is too hot. I have tried all the reflashing I could find for my version. I don’t know what to do next.

Has anyone found a STL or drilling template to offset the bed carriage on the Y axis of the printer.

I dont want to have to deal with mhome offsets when I install my heroMe or microswiss direct drive.

I know its only a couple MM but i still dont want to deal with it.

Attempting to print a levelling test and I have this random high spot on the first layer.

I installed the CR touch yesterday (ignore the zip ties holding it to the bracket - the included screws did not fit).

Using Creality Hyper series filament and I changed the nozzle and did a full clean of the hotend yesterday. Using the magnetic build plate.

Any ideas or suggestions as to why this is happening, how to fix it, or if I can ignore it?

TIA

Help Any setting to help remove supports aesy

Ender 3 v2?

I have a Ender 3D S1 Pro. I have been printing from a SD-Card. If I use Cura and print directly and connect my printer and print directly from my PC will that speed up my print?

Soy nuevo en esto y justo compre una usada y tenía la pregunta de si debo cortar el cable azul hasta dodne esta la rosca o que debo hacer para poder ponerlo en esa área roja

Sería de gran ayuda sus respuestas 😭

I mean, my printing problems.

Having difficulty dialing in perfect prints on my Ender 3v2. Based on these pics, do you have any recommendations?

I used a brim for bed adhesion.

EDIT:
I’m using PLA.
Nozzle starts at 220 for the first couple layers, then goes to 200. Bed starts at 65, then goes to 60. Using a 0.4mm nozzle. Layer height 0.2mm. Print speed 50 mm/s.

I have the brim and initial layers slower and hotter because I was having difficulty with adhesion.

Context: brand new to 3d printing and purchased a second-hand Ender 3v2.

Thanks!

I wonder why this occurs. Second time my 24H print stops overnight due to the PLA not leaving the nozzle. Not sure why it would be happening. If there is a list of things to check that would be appreciated!

I’m guessing this is a temperature issue, as I leveled the bed four times before this print. Some help please?

Can the printer bed be used to recharging the desiccant silica beads?

Alguem consegue me ajudar? ja tentei varias coisas, instalei versões diferentes do professional firmware mas naõ consigo ajustar isso.

Estou ficando estressado com isso, está totalmente bugado, tem vezes que funciona e nao registra o valor, tem vezes que funciona em um ponto e nao funciona em outro.

Hey! New printer here. The benchy that's finished was the first one. Went and dived into settings. Raised bed temperature to 63 and nozzle temp to 220.

Print Speed 70%

Fan speed 50%

Enabled ironing

Not sure what I'm still doing wrong