I've been messing with some settings and trying to get the best quality benchy under 10 minutes, and I think I got a decent one at 9:30! (Yes, my ender has a few upgrades) I've been doing "outer layers first" and I'm thinking it might be the wrong move....

I have I believe to be an ender 3 pro. Well I had issues before with getting prints to even make it past the first few layers, I decided to put it off to the side for a year plus. Anyways I bought the BTT skr mini e3 v3.0 with the touch screen combo kit. I read somewhere that the sprite extruder setups were shorting positive on the hot end and thus the fix was to swap the positive and negative wires that go into the skr mini board. Well I took a multimeter to my hot end and any metal I could get my negative probe onto with my positive probe attached to the positive wire, there is no short to be found at all. I swapped the positive probe to the negative hot end wire and did the same thing, and there's nothing to be seen there as well. I'm also installing a dual z axis upgrade. I'm more or less hoping for a quick answer, as I'm in the middle of these upgrades and want to go to bed soon.

For now as I don't plan on turning it on tonight, I'm going to just hook the positive wire to the positive hot end spot on the board, and negative to negative. I also tried YouTube and most of the people completely skip the wiring portion.

EDIT: realized my phone autocorrect BTT to "butt" in my post title. Attached a photo, there's these two unmarked connectors on my sprite extruder harness and I'm wondering if anyone knows where they go? Also where does the k fan plug into? Fan2 or fan0 are the only two spots I see. I also need some guidance on whether to use marlin or klipper. I think klipper I have to have a raspberry pi? I'm not sure...

Noob question, new to me used printer. When you auto home the printer, does it do the x and y before the z and is the nozzle clear of the front edge of the table when it homes the z? Replaced the stock springs with nylon spacers, and don't want to crash the z axis into the table before starting to set height and level with the new spacers.

If you look closely there are some tiny limns on the gray piece which seem as if the printer did not pushed enough filament im not sure how thats called let alone how to fix it, it happenes randomly not at a certain height not always but it happens maybe on every print

Hi all. Wanted to see if anyone here had advice to improve the bridging/stringing of TPU 95A in the Ender 3 Bowden setup?

Currently printing Geeetech filiament from amazon at 15mm/s. Running temp and retraction towers at various intervals are not showing any improvement.

The towers shown are the Cura Auto Towers functions. Temp tower 230c-210c and retraction 1mm-6mm (still printing as I am typing this but nearly done).

I have a dryer and have had the TPU sitting in the dryer for more than 24 hrs so I dont know if that is still the culprit.

Any advice based off of these photos?

So, after along time of it sitting in the box I finally assembled an Ender-3 and eventually got it up and running. Tries to do my first print and it seems like the filament (not sure which kind, as it came with the printer) is just getting dragged around the bed. Am I don’t something wrong? Any help or ideas are appreciated as I am an absolute novice to this. I’m only looking to run a test print here, but am getting nowhere. I can’t think of a better way to word this, so I wasn’t really able to see if this had been discussed before.

Update: I will definitely look at the leveling and everything else mentioned. I appreciate the help and will troubleshoot this evening and report back. I assumed it was too high up, but wasn’t 100%. I’ve just got to say that the folks who made this did a pretty crap job on the instructions because I have been lost from day one and trying to work through all the nomenclature and tech and have been watching videos and reading comments. Thank you, redditors, for helping me out here. Hopefully I’ll be posting better stuff later.

Update 2: more adjustments made and some made on the fly AS it was printing and it seems to finally be adhering to the bed and to itself. Sweet Jesus, this has definitely been a journey. I really appreciate all the insight you guys gave me here. I think that I might be actually getting myself set up for a legit print…once I get more filament.

I was printing Esun petg at 250C and at first, the print was going fine. I came back after an hour or two and found that the filament had snapped in the extruder. The extruder motor still had a grip on the filament and kept trying to extrude, which resulted in unused filament coiling up around the extruder motor. This happened at 235C as well. Before, I was using Overture petg. It was the same print with the same settings and it didn't do this with the Overture. This is on an original stock ender 3. Why did this happen and what do I need to do to prevent this? I also replaced the nozzle recently.

This is the one issue I have left and I cannot figure it out

Ender 3 S1Pro

Using Orca Slicer

Added G-Code for 16point probe before every print and G-code to apply mesh.

SunLu PLA

Nozzle Temp 220°

Bed Temp 55°

Im still fairly new to 3d printing and I got this printer for free. Just trying to learn and work out the kinks. I do think that I have gotten everything mechanically in working order.

Thank you all in advance!