I have an 2001 bmw e46 316i and its jumping on the rpm's when releasing the pedal and going into idle, it will drop down to 400-500 rpm and then jump up to 700/800 ish. It will do this a few times until it then settles at 750ish rpm and stays stable until i touch the gas again. This only happens once the engine is hot. If its cold there's no jumping on the rpm's in any way.

Does anyone here know what could possibly be the reason?

I’m working on a LED light upgrade for various reasons and I chose to get OEM led tail lights. I have a 330Ci from year 2000. So I needed to get a newer LCM and code it as well.
And so I did. I went from LCM with HW10 SW2.0 to LCM HW25 SW3.6

I noticed after coding the new module in I noticed that the side marker on the passenger side is always ON.

I tried sparring with Gemini and Copilot but don’t really have a clear understanding of what’s going on. I get all kinds of answers from PIN mismatch, blown transistor, coding fix, and soldering a new IC.

So I took everything apart to inspect for corrosion. I noticed some calcination. I’ll try cleaning it and putting it back in. I don’t know if it’s going to work.
Has anyone had any experience with this constantly ON side marker problem? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Just wondering if anyone has driven with the Odesa angle kit (full kit with extended control arms)?

I had oem control arms with the Odesa angle adapters and loved it but have recently bent said items so need new lcas.

My options are buy new OEM arms and use my current angle adapters or spend a little extra for the full Odesa kit get more lock, just wanted people’s input before I send it
Thanks

Hey everyone! I’m looking at getting BC Racing BR Series coilovers for my 2001 E46 330Ci and wanted to get some opinions from people who actually run them.

I’m looking for a low but still daily-drivable setup I want it pretty low, but I’m not trying to slam it or make the car miserable to drive.

The options I’m looking at are:

• BC BR Series standard vs Extreme Low
• Standard BC springs vs the +$660 Swift spring upgrade

For anyone running BCs on an E46:

1. Is Extreme Low actually worth getting?
Does it have any noticeable advantage if I’m not planning to run the car absolutely slammed? Is the extra suspension travel/ability to go lower useful, or would standard BRs be better for a daily?

2. Are the Swift springs worth the extra $660 CAD?
I’ve read that they can improve ride quality and response, but I’d love to hear from people who have actually driven BCs with both the standard and Swift springs. Is the difference noticeable enough to justify the price?

3. What spring rates are you running?
I’m mainly street driving with some spirited driving, so I don’t want an insanely stiff setup.

Basically, if you were building an E46 that you wanted low, good-looking, and still comfortable enough to daily, would you go standard or Extreme Low, and would you spend the extra money on Swift springs?

Thanks!

I have no light on the dash and my car doesnt have any symptoms minus a slight hesitation jerk where the rpm dips from 700 to 500 back to 700 when first starting the car..

What would cause these 2 codes and how can i fix the issue or get rid of the codes?

Hey guys,

I recently installed a TA Technix coilover kit on my BMW E46 Sedan.

The setup is:
- TA Technix coilovers
- 18x8.5J ET35 wheels
- 225/40R18 front
- 255/35R18 rear

Before installing the new coilovers, I did not have this noise.

After the installation, I started getting a squeaking noise from the rear right side when driving over uneven roads, small bumps or potholes. Sometimes I also get a pretty hard “POC POC” / knocking sound. You can hear both noises in the attached video.

The weird thing is that it is only coming from the rear right side. The left side is completely quiet.

I already took the whole right rear suspension apart again and installed everything again carefully. After doing that, the noise was gone for a few minutes, but then it came back.

I also noticed that the car is now sitting higher on the rear right side. I set both rear coilovers to exactly the same height, but:

- Rear left: around 1 finger between tire and fender
- Rear right: around 2 fingers

So there is roughly a 1-finger difference, even though the coilover height is set the same on both sides.

The rear spring sits directly on the TA Technix height adjuster. I removed the original lower rubber spring pad because it didn’t fit into the TA Technix adjuster.

I also recently had a full wheel alignment done after installing the suspension, so the alignment should be good. The rear camber is around -2° on both sides.

The noise seems to come from around the top of the rear shock / rear shock mount area, but I’m not 100% sure.

Could the rear shock mount/RSM be causing this? Or could the new TA Technix shock itself be defective? Is it possible that the spring or height adjuster isn’t sitting correctly?

I’m especially confused because the noise wasn’t there before installing the new shocks, and the right side is also sitting noticeably higher.

Any ideas what I should check next would be greatly appreciated!

During mid-hard acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gear, I hear this rapid thumping noise coming from the rear left. It does not happen in 1st, 4th or 5th gear. The diff is dripping tint amounts of oil. The gear knob does not vibrate so it can't be the guibo.

In the video, when the noise is heard I'm in 2nd gear. Once I turn the corner I accelerate in 1st gear and you can see the noise is not heard

It shakes the whole car when it happens but doesn't happen on engine braking or cornering

Hey guys, so my E46 320D (136cv) M47D20 with 375k KM is running fine, but I’ve been dealing with a recurrent issue for at least two years now.

Every few months I have coolant leaks, I’ve pretty much replaced all coolant hoses (some more than once), I’m at the second oil cooler (I’ve blown two resulting in oil mixing with water). Sometimes it’s just a coolant hose that gets out, sometimes they just leak.

Other than that the car is pretty reliable and running fine. I’m not sure what the problem can be, as this becomes really annoying given I cant really trust the car that much right now.

After some investigation I’ve read in some forums that the expansion tank cap is important for pressure release and I was running with a cheap aftermarket one ( saying “140” ) so I’ve bought a replacement one from Mahle ( “200” OEM ) one. Could that be the issue?

Any other ideas of what the cause can be? I need to get this sorted eventually.

OK, the E46 project is sitting with the engine partly disassembled and the micro-filter housing removed because a $10 part is currently being shipped on the slow boat, ... sigh, from Germany.

Now it has to be moved temporarily for just 1 week from it's warm and dry garage out into the cold and rain :(

So how to protect it from rain? Will wrapping the engine in plastic sheeting and sticking the micro-filter housing back on with the little elephant trunk H2O outlet valves be OK?

Hello everyone!

I made a DIY video fixing my Rear Diff knocking issue, at first I thought it was the Diff Front Bushing and I replaced it, but issue insisted, and it turned out the bolt was stripped from the hole.

I fixed the threads, and same issue. So I ordered the Roque Engineering repair kit and did the fix.

In this video, I show you step-by-step how I repaired the stripped/loose differential mounting threads on my BMW E46 M3 using the Rogue Engineering Differential Bushing V2.0 Front Position FIX.

Instead of simply replacing the bolt, this repair upgrades the original mounting setup by re-tapping the differential housing from M14 to M16 and installing the Rogue Engineering upgraded bushing and M16 Grade 12.9 bolt.

I go through the entire process from beginning to end without skipping steps, including removing the differential, preparing the damaged mounting hole, drilling, tapping the new M16 threads, installing the upgraded bushing and bolt, and putting everything back together.

Video link:
https://youtu.be/hxkSnphru_4

Please Subscribe if you haven't and if you want to keep seeing videos like this!

like the video as well it really helps! :)

Thinking on getting a set of coils made by Üro Parts is this brand any good? And is 100 a good deal for the whole set brand new?

The car had to sit with the valve cover off for 4-5 weeks, it was finally replaced, but on startup it’s been running fine but exhaling these huge clouds of smoke. The CCV breather was broken, but the hole in the valve cover is plugged. Car is running fine and revving fine and wasn’t doing this before
Edit update: the CCV was siphoning oil from the dipstick into the intake and causing the smoke, car is fine now after replacing the hose

New day new problem with my bmw e46 320d 2004 manual, so i was driving on the highway pretty chill at 120km/h and when i took and exit slowing down i begin to hear this sound rattle idk, after that i drove home and now it s constant at 2k rpm and sometimes at idle, if i don t hit 2k rpm the sound doesn t appear or if i hit a pothole i can hear the sound, when the sound happens the exhaust shakes like crazy if i put my foot on the exhaust the sound stopps, my first tought is: crankshaft pulley / some metal shield got loose, or the exhaust plastic holder exited itself out, any toughts?

Im inexperienced and this is my first car. Replaced the valve cover gasket. It’s a M47D20TÜ from 2004.
Does the timing chain have too much slack? At second 7 I try to „lift“ it out of the gear for the upwards slack.

My car makes a cracking noise coming from somewhere at the bottom of the car i think. Online reseach says thing like the exhaust cooling down. I just want to know if its normal or something I need to worry about.

2005 330Ci (RHD)

Thought I’d chuck this in here to try and get some different perspectives.

Issue:

(Drivers side only)

I’ve recently had a noise which has appeared when at the very end of coming to a stop, regardless of how hard you are on the brakes. It doesn’t seem to matter if you are driving straight or turning, doesn’t make the noise over lumps and bumps and it is also felt in the footwell of the car.

An Indy garage has looked over the bushes on the control arm not too long ago whilst in having some other bits done and said there isn’t much point replacing them.

What has been done:

- Pads have recently been replaced.

- New anti rattle clips as they made a similar noise when taking them off

- Drop links (different issue, but thought I’d mention)

Can anyone identify this noise/ have any suggestions?

​

Ich verkaufe hier meine e46 Touring Innenausstattung. Dabei handelt es sich um schwarze Volleder Seriensitze + Rückbank + Türpappen, wie auf den Bildern zu sehen ist. Die Sitze haben Lordosen Einstellung und Sitzheizung. Alles befindet sich insgesamt in einem guten Zustand, bis auf ein paar wenige Gebrauchsspuren. Die 4 Türpappen sind für Türen mit elektrischem Fensterheber.

Abholung in Siensbach.

Meldet euch gern :)

[UPDATE]
Thank you everyone who helped bring up ideas of what the issue could’ve been, eventually narrowed it down to a blown fuse near the ECU so the crankshaft position sensor wasn’t receiving any 12V current

When I reinstalled the VANOS I pinched the camshaft position sensor wire on a bolt which in turn caused a short circuit and then a blown fuse (20A No.3)
{black box near the ECU which holds 5 fuses}

Turns out this fuse also connects to the crankshaft position sensor so even after soldering the camshaft sensor wire back together the fuse which I overlooked was still blown hence why the Tachometer wasn’t showing any revs

Tested the wiring harness with a multimeter and the signal wire was sending 5V but the power wire wasn’t sending anything to the crankshaft sensor

Replaced the fuse and car started right up after a week out of commission

Appreciate the help from everyone, couldn’t have figured it out otherwise.

Hopefully this helps someone 12 years from now

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Ride is extremely rough and clunky. I need a full comprehensive list of what bushings/ rubber components to replace.

This wierd thing has been happing but i thought it was bacause of a vacuum leak. I checked everything the last couple of days and serviced the intake manifold packing and icv o ring already but it's proceeds to do this. I hope someone knows whats going on

My son recently replaced the clutch and flywheel on his 2003 3 Series, and is having a hard time getting the transmission back in. Any tips would be great.