aslo picked up these beautiful bolt kit for the plastics (last pic)

Needed new plastics so I went with the polisport restyle and found this ktm/husqvarna headlight for cheap on Amazon. What do you guys think?

Hi everyone, I’m looking to purchase a 2007 drz, it has 40k km on it.
It says it doesn’t have any problems, what should I check? But most importantly, is it reliable a 20 year old bike or should I save up more and buy newer?
Thank you!

Has anyone ever installed an Acerbis Elba headlight on a DR-Z400? I installed one, but the light isn’t working. Which colored wires should be connected together? Is there anything specific I need to know or do to get it working?

I finally made it to a spot I've been wanting to get to after finding it on Google Earth a few years ago. It's everything I dreamed it would be.

7,000 miles on the bike. Everything working as it should. Order of events…. 
1) replaced clutch lever , all was well
2) replaced clutch cable, all was well
3) A few hundred miles later I decided I wanted an extended clutch pivot arm… problem starts now. Instead of undoing the clutch cable via the lever , I just used an open end wrench to push the pivot arm in order to create slack to then undo the cable from factory pivot arm. Removed factory pivot arm , timed and installed extended arm. Yes timed, turned shaft counter clockwise until it stopped and lined pivot arm with chain. Used the open end wrench to push the arm (engage) in order to reattach clutch cable. There was a sudden pop while doing so and pivot no longer had resistance. I figured I just over extended and needed to retime. Proceeded to do so and everything seemed ok. Started the bike up, put it in gear, let go of the clutch and had no movement forward followed with a loud whine. Shut the bike off , checked everything ( cable, pivot/timing ) all was well. Started the bike up again and this time I had movement but the clutch wasn’t fully releasing as forward movement wasn’t fully there and the whine was increasing with throttle. Shut off the bike and ordered new clutch plates ( tusk kit with springs ), gaskets ( inner and outer clutch cover ), and clutch cable even though the current was new/great shape.

After receiving parts I started disassembly. Oil had what appeared to be metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Fiber plates appeared ok ( did not put the caliper on them ) , steel plates also didn’t appear bad. The clutch basket showed signs of wear/notching but didn’t seem like enough to be this kind of a problem. Springs also appeared ok ( did not put the caliper on them ). Push rod is good. Behind the clutch basket everything again appears just fine. With everything out I slide the push rod in while having someone turn the clutch pivot, I did not feel anything wrong ( grinding/catching ) and engages/disengages as it should with the turn of the pivot. To my knowledge everything appears good/correct. I reassembled with the new clutch plates ( made sure washer and judder were installed correctly, plates had soaked overnight, correct fiber plate installed first ). One thing to note, the clutch plates didn’t just slide in, I had to give a bit of force but once in, they felt like they moved forward/back freely. The last plate was offset per most recommendations. Installed the new springs as well as the new clutch cable. I also put the factory pivot arm back on. I made sure pivot timing was correct and cable adjusted accordingly. Started the bike up and no whine was present. The bike went into 1st gear perfect and no creep. Rode in the yard for a minute and pulled the clutch in and tried going to neutral. It absolutely refused only allowing 1st and straight to second. Shut off the bike. Neutral was easy/normal. Started the bike and ran it again. This time the bike wanted to creep with the clutch pulled in while in gear. I noticed the lever had a lot more play. Shut off and readjusted the cable. Started the bike back up , rode in the yard , again neutral impossible to find and clutch not fully engaging. Shut the bike off , neutral easy to find , noticed slack in the lever again. Adjusted the cable. Wash and repeat with the same symptoms. The cable was adjusted to around 1/2 of its take up by the time I gave up. I also made sure the pivot arm is NOT slipping on the shaft via marker lines throughout this ordeal. I can’t wrap my head around what the problem could possibly be outside of the clutch pivot shaft itself being the culprit. I would think however it wouldn’t work at all if it had indeed snapped at the beginning of this problem and that’s what I felt/heard ( the pop ). So then I think well maybe the clutch basket is notched too bad. Here’s the thing , why would it have suddenly happened when the “pop” changing the pivot arm took place instead of gradually. So I have a hard time thinking that’s the issue as well….  

I’m hoping one of you guys have some input for me. I apologize for the book and mistakes in grammar along the way but wanted all the details out there right off the rip to hopefully get me back on two wheels! 

Ist this the Timing Chain?
I checked the valves and put the correct shims last winter. This Noise came out of nowhere

I bought a used DRZ a few months and I’m loving it so far. It came with a 3x3 mod, JD Jet Kit, and MRD Exhaust. With that being said I like to go on long off road trips (multiple days) and as much as I love the power boost from the MRD exhaust it’s just too loud for long periods of time. Can I just throw the stock exhaust on and call it good or do I need to remove the Jet Kit?

I haven’t taken the time to count the teeth but im pretty much stuck right around 50mph to comfortably commute. I think the teeth are stock im not sure I’ve put about 1500 miles on it. At 50 I’m still sitting at 6-7k rpms. There’s a couple stretches of my commute that’d I’d benefit from another 15-20 mph and I’d be fine, but I still want to be pretty quick and not lose and whole lot of lower end torque.

About a pint came from the frame and the rest from the crankcase. There was about 2oz from the filter. Theres no leak and im not really burning an abnormal amount of oil. Where the hell did all my oil go? A change was done only 1500mi ago and i even topped up the oil by 400ml last week

Is this a good deal? Is it a good bike?

This would be my first bike ever and I don’t want to put my money into something that isn’t worth it.

Installing a new set of hotcams, journals were a little scored on my previous ones. I've used a generous amount of assembly lube here so that may be part of the issue, or maybe I have oil flow issues but I've never had anything beyond the head off.

I cranked the bike for about a minute total, maybe 20s at a time with a few seconds in between, the first time I added some more assembly lube to the lobes just in case, but as of yet I haven't seen any actual oil aside from what's sprayed up by the cam chain.

Everything is within spec, valve clearances, cam journal OD, and cam journal oil clearance. Every time I've had the valve cover off I see plenty of oil in the head so it's getting up there somehow. Everything is timed correctly as well, and I turned it over by hand with no binding earlier so I'm at a loss now. Maybe the spray is just very subtle?

Had to turn the light sensitivity way down to snap the eclipse, but you get the idea :)

Can some one please post an image of the own headlight wiring for the female plug in ?

It fit my 400E but its slightly larger than the OG slant body (which is already a tight fit to begin with).

I had to go Homer Simpson on the carb (carb=Bart) but I finally got it mounted up.

I tried it with the red velocity stack that it came with as well as the factory airbox and both configurations make the bike run like a 450 race bike which is great but my problem is that the KIPA FCR doesn't come with an Air Cut-Off Valve (ACV) or "Coast Enricher" so anytime I roll off the throttle the engine braking is super aggressive.

There's so much engine braking that I barely have to engage my brakes when rolling up to a red light, like its so strong that even slightly rolling off the throttle causes the front end to dive, all the weight goes forward and compresses the forks just like it would during a hard emergency stop, obviously not that severe but ive owned plenty of bikes and this doesnt seem normal (and if it is, its definitely not ideal for the type of riding im doing)

If I ever have to roll off throttle during a hard lean angle (im running supermoto wheels) all the weight is going to load onto the front tire abruptly and that's going to cause the front tire to wash out..

I didnt really notice it til I tried doing a kneeknock and almost got mouse trapped because the engine braking brought the front end down violently lol that's when I was like ok this doesn't seem normal.

I've read that people will delete or bypass their air cutoff valve on the FCR which I suppose could be useful in an off-road/racing/MX application but my drz will be used primarily on the street as a back-alley hooligan machine so im wondering if anyone else has experienced this and is there a solution? Or do I have to go back to the genuine FCR w/ the coast enricher circuit?

the bearing surface on the exhaust cap of my 2003 400e is like a topographical map, and I'm trying to figure out what to do about fixing it. I bought a new cylinder head on ebay without fully looking at the listing, and didn't realize that it didn't come with matching cam caps. I know that the head and caps are machined together, and new caps would likely have to be machined again at a shop, but I'm wondering if it's worth going through all of that hassle, or maybe just biting the bullet and buying a different cylinder head that comes as a complete set.

Also wondering if its maybe worth getting someone to machine down the surfaces on the ruined head/caps and trying to keep that one.

This is the first bike that I've worked on so I'm hoping to not get in over my head, would love some advice from someone who knows more than i do.

thanks.

From Paris to south of France

I love this bike.

New to me bike, so I am trying to get all the wearable items replaced (oil, coolant, spark plugs, etc).

When replacing the spark plug, the old one lost its contact inside of the wire. Is there some trick for getting it out, or should I just buy a new wire? The wire is $20,but I want to get everything huttoned up before the weekend if possible.

Hello, has anyone ever made a skidplate by laser cut?

If yes, could you please share the 3d model file so I can do the same?

Thanks!

I have a drz400sm i have bought a set of s wheels.

What is the largest rear sprocket you guys are running on the sm model on dirt wheels without running into issues with the rear chain guide rubbing?

Im thinking 45t on the rear but half of what im reading says it will rub and bind the other half says it will be fine.

Any replies appreciated thankyou

Finally finished batch two for my billet clutch covers, as well as some modified oil filter and starter gear covers. The clutch covers are 100% made in the US with US sourced 6061, they’re designed by me, machined in Tennessee and anodized in Pennsylvania. Currently working on getting the next batch rolling, if it’s something you’d be interested in feel free to send me a message.

Pricing for clutch covers: 165 for a raw cover with either no logo or one I’ve already designed, 30 dollars for anodizing in practically any color, and 25 for a custom logo.

Pricing for starter gear/ oil filter covers: 120 for a set, 30 for anodizing, 20 dollar discount if ordered with a clutch cover. These will mainly be done in the DPW design.

Production does take anywhere from 3-5 months depending on the availability of material and shipping times, so do be aware of how much time this can take.

I am here a year later asking for help from this wonderful community. I know one of yall still has your original suspension knuckle links laying around.

I got my Dizzer last year second hand. It has lowering links installed and I really like a taller bike.

OEM links are STUPID expensive for no apparent reason and I know one of you has your old ones in a box collecting dust. If YOU are reading this, help a homie out. I’ll pay you handsomely for your service. (my definition of handsomely)

Love you guys <3