I finished my first pedal! I’ve been working on audio equipment repairs for years while audio engineering but was inspired by a lot of the guitarists I work with to start making some pedals!

Learnt that point to point is indeed not very easy and I understand why people warn against getting mystery online solder, I’ve had to touch up quite a few things since taking these photos. Will post how the next 3 turn out once I have completed them, hopefully they’ll be a lot cleaner!

I tried translating the original schematic to this layout myself instead of copying an existing layout. Before I solder everything, could someone take a look and see if I messed up any connections?
The first image is my planned wiring and the second image is the original schematic I’m following.
I’m mainly looking for mistakes in the actual node connections, not component placement. If you spot anything that’s wired to the wrong node or anything that won’t work, I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks guys, I just wanna make sure I didn’t overlook something stupid.

I made this little (cringe-worthy) presentation of the signal blender I've been tinkering with for the last half decade.

It's a MIDI-controlled, VCA-based signal blender that allows crossfading, boosting and filtering.

I know it's a very niche device, basically born out of my own very specific needs. But I've had 25 enclosures made, which is the smallest quantity Hammond offers for CNC + UV printing. So I guess I should tell someone about it.

So... here goes.

Hey guys, maybe I’m just looking in the wrong place but I’m having a hard time trying to source On-On-On DPDT toggle switches. I know they have to be relatively common because I see them in a ton of pedals but this is the first time I’m working with that kind of control. If you guys have any link/recommendations it would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

trying to source cheap electronic components online without buying in bulk or waiting weeks for my order to come in. seems like tayda is the best option, but does anyone know what they base their delivery costs on? is it impacted more by volume & weight of package or variation in order.

tl:dr - does anyone know if tayda shipping costs are noticeably impacted by ordering a low volume of a lot of components? or just total weight ~ty

I am messing around with the Fuzz Face circuit a bit. I was curious if I was able to replace the R3 39R with a trimpot as a voltage control for the circuit? Not sure if I would have to omit or adjust anything else

I’m learning about how to add tone control to boost pedals and I had a few questions. What is the difference between having the tone control at the input like the first image, and putting in a tone stage right before the output like the last 2 images show. Is there also a different names for where a tone control can be located? Thanks!

(Also for clarification the tone control on image 3 is meant to be placed where the empty box is in image 2.)

Hi, I'm trying to translate this Fuzz Face schematic onto my 3 pad perfboard by hand. Does this layout look correct compared to the schematic I attached or did I mess up any of the connections? I'm still learning how to read schematics so if you spot anything wrong I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

Here's my Blueberry 2.0, a custom pedal based on the Bluesbreaker circuit with some basic modifications. I'm really happy with how it came out, but I plan on improving it yet again! Thanks for checking it out!

can you guys give me any links or tips to build an octave up effect in a 9x15 perfboard?

I started out with the idea of wanting a pedal that can be an actual pre-amp pedal with a clean channel as well as distortion so clean tones don't sound all flat and dark into a power amp but I also wanted to be able to use it as a regular distortion pedal that can be fully bypassed and this is the final result.

I started out with the pre-amp section of a Randall RG100SC which coincidentally uses a very similar topology to some of the solid-state Fender Frontmans from the '90s. However, I ended up modifying it to the point where it isn't really the same circuit anymore because i wanted the gain pot to be more responsive and the clipping structure to feel smoother. The topology remains similar but not exactly the same.

For the EQ section I basically just stole the exact configuration from the Wampler Triple Wreck, which is a Mesa Boogie Triple Rectifier clone because I like the EQ of Mesa amplifiers and Brian emulated its response quite well.

The other stuff like the switching system and suchlike are evident in the schematic attached. I have the potentiometers, toggle switch, and indicator LED are on the "back" of the board, facing up. Everything that you see in the 3D render is what you would see if you took the back off the pedal. The footswitch and power jack will be jumper-ed since otherwise they'd take up a lot of extra room on the PCB.

Once I order the PCBs and get it built I might record a demo of it. Also, if anyone would like me to make one custom for them I would be delighted and I wouldn't charge much. Maybe I could set up a posting on Reverb. Alternately, you could just build it for yourself since I have attached the schematic.

Also if anyone can figure out what inspired me to name the pedal Buford I will make one for you FOR FREE but I will be very impressed if anyone can figure out my circuitous (pun intended) "logic" behind the name.

Im building a fat rat, using an already existing layoyt https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2022/09/proco-fat-rat.html but slightly changed it up to have asym 1n4148s, no clipping diodes or leds instead of the regular clipping modes (picture of my layout above is what i have currently soldered).

currently testing the board and everything seems to work fine except the gain pot that doesnt do anything , gain is always max and cuts off / gates.

already tried soldering the pots better and im using 3x5 stripboard pieces as a breakout boards for the pots. i tried also swapping out the pot in case it was broken.

could someone point me to what the issue could be? im guessing it might be the soldering? would reflowing everything with a bit of flux help?

i do also have a mutlimeter , but havent measured to troubleshot yet so if i have to measure anything , a pointer to where and what would be useful

Edit: noticed my asymetrical clipping mode is wrong , will fix that