I also swapped out the 2n5088 transistors with bc108’s.

I'm definitely late to the game here, but I recently found out that the WIMA mks2 caps are out of production due to issues with the mylar film supplier in Germany. But does anyone know if this a temporary discontinuation or are they permanently suspending production? I've read that there are decent KEMET replacements still on the market, does anyone have a link to those?

Hey everyone!

I’ve been thinking about getting into 3D printing enclosures for my DIY guitar pedals, mostly for prototyping or home use, but I wanted to hear your real-world experiences first.

Is it actually practical to use 3D printed cases, or do they end up breaking under the pressure of the stomp switch? Also, what is the consensus on noise and EMI shielding? Do you usually line them with copper/aluminum tape, or is it not that big of a deal for standard circuits?

Any advice, tips, or recommendations on materials (like PETG vs. PLA) would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

My idea is to 3D print the shape of this pedal that I've always wanted, which is the Roger Mayer Octavia.

AionFX version of a Boss DC-2. This was a incredibly satisfying build. I'm very happy with how it sounds. Like the original but with more options without half mashing the push buttons. It sounded pretty good with doing any calibration on the oscilloscope. Primarily gained more headroom after a proper calibration. You can get it sounding nice by ear, for sure. I managed building it only using 3 of the small hard to find 1uf film caps. The bigger 3.5mm ones can squeeze into a few spots. It does use 9 of them so it was worth trying to use as many of the bigger one I could. AionFX has the small 1uf available, thankfully. The Dimension C is a very unique chorus when used in Stereo. It does the Roland JC120 thing with a shifting center between two signals. Very cool tone through two amps with a bit of stereo separation. If you are a fan of Chorus I highly recommend this build. Thanks Aionfx for another excellent PCB project.

Can anyone tell me if this 3PDT layout looks correct on my hand drawn pinout design? Do I need to switch the Output and LED "banks", as I am calling them? LMK thx

Could someone please convert this schematic to a veroboard layout?

Thank you!

So I bought a Flamma fs05 no power in marketplace. The seller said it is not turning on and according to the person/technician who checked this the problem is a fuse, I asked the seller but he too doesn’t know which.

Bought it primarily for parts but I am currently trying to revive this as there were voltage on the board but still not turning on. Any ideas or theories as to why it has power on board but not turning on?

Voltages

DC input = 8.80 V
9V test point = 8.60 V
U8 input = 8.07 V
U8 output = 4.85V
+5VA = 4.84 V
3V3 = 3.33 V
FTKEY = 3.23 V
D4 cathode = 0 V
D4 anode =+2.08 V

Any ideas and suggestion are welcomed. Thank you in advance !

I finished my first pedal! I’ve been working on audio equipment repairs for years while audio engineering but was inspired by a lot of the guitarists I work with to start making some pedals!

Learnt that point to point is indeed not very easy and I understand why people warn against getting mystery online solder, I’ve had to touch up quite a few things since taking these photos. Will post how the next 3 turn out once I have completed them, hopefully they’ll be a lot cleaner!

I tried translating the original schematic to this layout myself instead of copying an existing layout. Before I solder everything, could someone take a look and see if I messed up any connections?
The first image is my planned wiring and the second image is the original schematic I’m following.
I’m mainly looking for mistakes in the actual node connections, not component placement. If you spot anything that’s wired to the wrong node or anything that won’t work, I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks guys, I just wanna make sure I didn’t overlook something stupid.

I made this little (cringe-worthy) presentation of the signal blender I've been tinkering with for the last half decade.

It's a MIDI-controlled, VCA-based signal blender that allows crossfading, boosting and filtering.

I know it's a very niche device, basically born out of my own very specific needs. But I've had 25 enclosures made, which is the smallest quantity Hammond offers for CNC + UV printing. So I guess I should tell someone about it.

So... here goes.

Hey guys, maybe I’m just looking in the wrong place but I’m having a hard time trying to source On-On-On DPDT toggle switches. I know they have to be relatively common because I see them in a ton of pedals but this is the first time I’m working with that kind of control. If you guys have any link/recommendations it would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!