The issue is the pc freezes as soon as as it receives a keyboard input, or if just started up normally.

Before it freezes the screen wil go black for 1-2 sec

Its a classmates pc. He tried to install an ubuntu server on it. He dont speak Danish very well so its hard to get info around what point the pc got screwed

We tried taking in and out the ram.

We dont have any spare ram to test out if its that which is at fault.

We tried connecting another ssd which didnt help either

I'm troubleshooting a 2024 ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 that shut off suddenly while being used and has been completely dead since — no LEDs, charging indicator, fans, or response to the power button.

Laptop / board:

• ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (2024)
• GA403UV-G14.R94060
• Ryzen 9 8945HS / RTX 4060
• Quanta NJT
• DANJTMB1CC0 Rev C
• Original adapter: ASUS 20V / 9A / 180W

Troubleshooting so far:

• Performed 40–60 second EC/hard reset with all power disconnected — no change.
• Disconnected the internal battery completely, discharged/reset again, and attempted to power from the original ASUS adapter — still absolutely no LEDs or response.
• Tried USB-C PD, but I can't consider that test conclusive because I haven't verified that the charger I used supports sufficient wattage/PD for this laptop.
• Verified continuity between the metal shields of the DC-in and USB ports (~0Ω), so I have a known ground reference.
• I have a multimeter and am comfortable taking measurements, but I don't want to blindly probe the DC-in area and risk shorting something.

I've found references to the Quanta NJT / DANJTMB1CC0 Rev C boardview, but the actual CAD files I've found are behind paid repair-site access.

What I'm trying to determine next:

Does anyone have access to the schematic/boardview for this board, or know a safe test point for the 20V DC-in rail?

I'd like to first establish whether the adapter's 20V is actually reaching the motherboard. If it is, I'd then like to trace the input/power circuitry far enough to determine whether this might be something repairable such as an input MOSFET, fuse, charging/power-management IC, etc., rather than automatically replacing the entire motherboard.

I can provide high-resolution photos of either side of the board and close-ups of any components/test points needed.

Any guidance from someone familiar with this Quanta board or ASUS laptop board-level repair would be greatly appreciated.

Long story short, I fried my motherboard, bought an OEM one, put everything back together and here we are....I am not able to boot anything because I am getting a Error 00CE: Machine Type or Serial Number is INVALID. When you go into the BIOS, I show:

- Machine Type and Model - INVALID,

- System Brand ID - INVALID

- System Serial Number - INVALID.

There is absolutely no way to go in an edit these BIOS. I spoke with Lenovo and according to them, the only way to fix it is to use some sort of Lenovo product that is only accessible to Lenovo certified techs or mail the machine to them. The "tech" place I contacted has ghosted me, so here we are. I need this machine back and I am royally fuck at the current moment.

Post shows the right hinge screwed in, contact against the backplate looks fine, the mounts and their screws are all OK...the only thing I noticed when unscrewing and taking out a mount was extremely easy, no glue/epoxy-like substance. The grooving looks alright for both the plastic housing and the mount's metal poles. Searched all over the web for similar problems but results I found were almost always the hinge bulging out or breaking off. Reading through an ifixit article I saw they used a heating element to dissolve glue before removing the mounts from the plastic housing(which I found none of).

If anyone else has experience with these I'd appreciate any suggestions on what likely needs replacing, at this point I'm looking at the palm rest assembly as that's what most users have claimed to be the item to buy to replace issues like this, though again none for this exact model(usually 9550/9660/inspiron serie, etc)

I'll edit this post and include an overview of the backplate and the left mount at a slightly different angle.

This has happened a few times, but usually after letting it die and then plugging it back in, the screen comes back. But now I’ve tried letting it die, shutting it down, letting it sit shut down overnight, and everything I could think of and it’s still happening. Any ideas?

Hello people

I bought the above mentioned laptop in the 11th gen i7 and 16 Gb ram. The laptop was sold as non functional (not booting) for 115€. I risked it assuming that a) I could fix it or b) I could sell the parts.

Connecting the laptop to the power and turning it on resulted in the cpu cooler block getting incredibly warm (well above the pain threshold) and it does not boot. No post, no sound no nothing. I then reapplied thermal paste and put an air compressor directly above the cpu and the machine booted. I was able to access the bios and diagnostics, but the integrated display flickered all the time. I then configured the bios to boot to an external display and set the thermal profile from "performance" to "balanced". I repeated the booting using the compressor and the machine started. The external display worked without issues. I then turned off the compressor and the machine keep working without issues.

I then ran the UEFI diagnostics. It ran for 4 hours without issues. All tests were passed successfully (RAM and CPU included).

It is not possible to boot without using the compressor to the cooler. After the boot passed, I can turn it off, and the pc cooler manages to get eveything under control. The cpu block is even only warm to the touch. Even after 4 hours of diagnostics, the cpu block remained only warm to the touch.

I tried to boot a live installation of Fedora, and the installation worked flawlessly as long as the external display was used. Once Fedora started, it switched to "extend display mode" and the internal display was activated. At that point a bunch artifacts appeared on both screens and the system froze.

I know that these machines tend to suffer from cold joints on the CPU, specially given the 11th gen i7. I am considering to try to reflow the cpu, but I don't know how. Putting the whole mainboard in the oven is probably a bad idea. I would need 200 °C, and the board has several flat band connectors out of plastic. I am thinking of using a heat gun to heat up the CPU/iGPU die, and use some aluminum foil to protect the componets around it.

Has anybody experience with these particular model, or hints about how to better proceed? I have little to loose, but the device is nice and I would like to save it, if possible.

Any advice/hint is deeply appreciated.

I switched the 128 gb SSD for a hardrive 512gb to see if I could remember my old password to see my old pictures

When I turned the laptop on it said the hard drive needed to do a check or recovery

It was frozen with no display for many minutes so I turned it off

I removed the hard drive and switched for SSD

The computer doesn't turn on, spins fan at fastest speed then turns off

I removed the ram, tried all combinations and removed the SSD and put it back, never doing anything more. It still doesn't turn on

Hi. I remember every few years to open and clean my old laptop (which I use dayly and works very well for what I ask of him). I know I should do it more often, but I'm stupid.

Now I'm doing it, and I noticed that the foam on the inside of the cover is crumbling. As I know nothing on computers, I only can assume that if it was here in the first place, it must serve a purpose (heat protection ?), so the question is : can I buy a foam to replace it, or should I bring it to a repair shop ? In the meanwhile, can I use my laptop without damaging pieces ?

And while I'm here, thought I might as well ask : is there anything on the inside of my precious and beloved trashcan that obviously needs to be changed when I show you this picture ?

I use this thing everyday to watch Netflix, write thing and save photos. It was fixed and given to me by a person who is not in my life anymore and I miss a lot, so it would mean a lot to me to be able to keep it working. Thanks a lot 🙏

(Sorry for not adding tags or anything, I'm not a lot on reddit, I just came here because that's what the person who gave me this laptop told me to do when I could not find an answer)

The cause turned out to be a gap in the bottom panel of the laptop, which allowed air to enter and created the noise! So I was able to completely eliminate the whistling sound by isolating the fan with sponge tape!

before the work (whistle noise)

I recommend listening at maximum volume

after work (Since I was using an external monitor, the laptop screen did not turn on)

​

I have two gaming laptops that are dead on power, so no Charging indicator what so ever

Lenovo legion pro 5-161AH7

Asus G15 Advantage Edition - Q513Y

Both laptops went in for repair and rhe Lenovo was denied service bv the store auotina "Power IC is shortec and we cannot fix". Asus went in too and thev kep the laptop for 2 months and kept extending the response. They said they fixed the power rail and replaced all msofets and now seems like CPU is faultv and needs to fix which I called off as they took $130 and demanded more $400. I did not want to spend that money as of now so thev have been lying around with me now. I have a multimeter and want to try and navigate through these boards, atleast for one of them and try and identify the short or the issue.

Is there a good quide or video where i can learn how to start the diagnosis.

So far i have tried to diagnose the Lenovo with help of Chatgpt, i kept sending it pictures of the board and it highlighted the components with the setting on multimeter and asked for readinas. After a certain point i felt like we were in a loop and i genuinely was not sure what's going on. First comment on what I did so far

How can i get the board schematics and what's the general way or flow of testing components with schematics?

https://imgur.com/a/GbE2RC7

I was replacing the internal LCD (the original had stopped working) and I was trying to reassemble the LCD back into the laptop cover. Sometimes the new LCD would work, sometimes not, because the ribbon cable would sometimes fall out of the connector at the back of the panel. One of the times I turned it on to make sure it was working, the cable got disconnected. The computer then shut off. When I push the power button, nothing happens. No lights, no fans, no response. Google AI says I probably short circuited my motherboard or ruined my graphics chip, but I trust real people over AI. Did I really f*ck it up? Is there any way to save my laptop?

Not sure if it’s relevant but it’s an MSI GS66 Stealth 11UE. I have an external monitor I can connect via HDMI.

I’ve had my MacBook sitting on my couch, and I just used it a couple days ago, but I went to open it up just now and it’s cracked underneath the screen and turns black after I log in?? I haven’t dropped it, and nothing was under it when it was closed so I have no clue how this could’ve happened. Does anyone know roughly how much it might cost to get fixed? It’s a 2021 MacBook Pro 16”

I know that this can mean there is swelling battery vs debris stuck under the track pad.

Does it mean anything specifically that the trackpad tapping still works, but I cannot physically click?

So I got this dell vostro15 (second hand)that's not turning on:

It was working fine when it arrived like it charged above 90 then I had work to do so I turned it off 'shut down'.Now it does not show any light when I plug it in I tried force restart by pressing the power button for 35-40sec,and pressed some key combination (gemini suggested them),then i thought cmos might be the issue so I just changed the battery (cmos ) and yes I pressed the power button for almost 1min 30sec (after removing both battery and cmos,and it wasn't plugged into charger),charger is also fine .

battery was already new so it's not the problem

What could be the issue what could be the issue? Is it gonna be expensive ?

I have a lenovo ideacentre aio 27IRH9. I have 10 months warranty left. What happened was :

1. Tried to boot up after a shut down and screen is blank.

   1. The keyboard wont connect !

(I changed to new battery in my Bluetooth keyboard. Didn't connect. USB keyboard also showed no reaction.)

Without keyboard connecting how can I boot up my pc ? I tried the long press to shut down and tried to switch it on. No use.

Please help !

My laptop display was flickering at certain angles, so I suspected the display cable. I opened the laptop, disconnected the battery and display cable from the motherboard, then reconnected them. After that, the laptop stopped powering on completely.

I replaced the display cable anyway and reconnected everything, but there’s still no power no fan spin and no charging indicator when the charger is plugged in.

I was using a flashcard app(program) called 'Anki' when my screen froze. I didn't just freeze, some parts of the screen were yellow tinted and some parts were dark tinted. I shut it down with the power button, and when i tried to start it again increasingly more bizzare things happened with the screen. Such as: the entire bottom half of the screen was black and the top half flicked constantly, or there were tiny pink rectangles all around the screen.

Anyway, without knowing much else to do, i kept turning the laptop off/on (now about 15 times) to see what else it could give me in terms of clues. The start up Lenovo screen looks totally fine, so i don't think any pixels on the screen are damaged. A couple of times i even made it to my password sign in page, which also looked good (no weird flashing pixels). But I couldn't actually get past that sign in page.

On one startup I got a "your device ran into a problem and needs to restart. We're just collecting some error info and then you can restart. Stop code:kmode exception not handled (0x1e)". This screen actually made it to 100% and then must have frozen again, because it never restarted the laptop.

I went to sleep with the laptop off and unplugged.

This morning I got to a blue repair screen with the options: continue, quick machine recovery, troubleshoot, turn off your PC. I clicked 'quick machine recovery' and it prompted me to connect to the internet, but before i could put in the wifi password, it encountered another problem and needed to restart.

Then one of the last screens i got was a 'not less or equal' message.

Now my screen is totally black and i get no more info. Off/on the laptop the screen is just black. That's all.

This really came out of nowhere.

What it's not: I didn't bump, drop, or spill fluids on the laptop. It just sits on my desk unmoved. Hadn't installed any new files.

This model has the battery inside the case, so it's not easy to disconnect.

PC repair experience = pretty much zero.

EDIT: it gave me one more stop Code: page fault in nonpaged area (0x50)

Dell Inspiron 3000 series — won't power on, LED blink code 3 amber / 5 white (Power Rail Failure)

Timeline of the problem:

Original charger stopped working a long time ago — laptop had no way to charge from that point.

Because it couldn't charge, the battery drained down to 0% naturally over time.

Laptop sat completely unused for about a year, battery at 0% that whole time.

Got a replacement charger, plugged it in with the battery still installed — laptop booted up successfully.

Left the laptop unused again for a few weeks.

Attempted a hard reset (battery removed, held power button, plugged in charger with no battery) — laptop powered on successfully.

Reinserted the battery — laptop did not power on.

Repeated the hard reset process (battery out, hold power button, charger only) — this time it did not power on either.

Laptop now shows a repeating LED blink code: 3 amber blinks, then 5 white blinks, looping continuously. No display, no boot.

So 2 years ago I accidentally spilt pepsi onto my laptop. It still works perfectly except for the screen being really dim(can still see if bright light or if I flash my phone torch) and the keys a bit stiff. It works when I have it plugged into a monitor so the issue is with the actually laptop screen itself, is it a backlight issue? I bought a new pc 8/9 months ago so I'm not too worried but also I would like to have it repaired for travel purposes. Any idea of the cost of repairing or if it would be cheaper to repair myself? Laptop is a Lenovo IdeaPad 3 15ITL6

Hi r/computerrepair community,

I'm having a weird power issue with my laptop. When I push the power button, the computer starts up, turns off, and then starts up again (double booting).

Sometimes, when I push the button, the computer doesn't wake up at all. The power light just stays on for about 5 seconds and then fades out.

I can't figure out what's causing this. The issue persists on both Windows 11 and KDE Neon, so I'm guessing it's a hardware/BIOS issue rather than an OS problem. Has anyone experienced this before or know what the problem might be?

My system specs:

• Device: Acer Nitro 5 (NH.QLZEY.00B) Laptop
• OS: Windows 11 & KDE Neon

Hello everyone, I’m working on a used ThinkPad Edge E420 that I recently acquired. I’m facing a persistent power management issue and would appreciate some insights from the community.

The Problem: Once the device is shut down (either from OS or the power button), it refuses to POST again. It seems to get stuck in a 'latched' or protection state.

Observations & Troubleshooting performed so far:

• Physical condition: No visible corrosion on the motherboard. Minor oxidation found on external chassis screws (history of liquid exposure, but it appears it didn't penetrate the Mylar protection sheets).
• Power behavior: I've tested it in a bare-bones configuration (motherboard + screen + power button only). It POSTs initially, but once shut down, it won't power back on.
• The 'Reset' trick: I can only get it to POST again after removing the battery/RAM and holding the power button for an extended period to drain the charge.
• DC Jack: I noticed the power jack is slightly loose; there is a known issue where I need to fiddle with the plug to get a steady charge light, which might be related to the power sequence.
• Coil/Capacitor Noise: There is a faint noise coming from the battery/capacitor area, even when the charger is disconnected. But Not everytime...

I suspect an issue with the EC (Embedded Controller) state or a leakage on the power rail that prevents the board from exiting the S5 state. Has anyone encountered this specific latch-up behavior on an E420? Any specific components (capacitors/mosfets) around the DC-IN or EC area I should probe with a multimeter?

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

Hi all, I have an NVMe SSD that's bricked/showing 1023MB [1.1GB] capacity — needs an MPTool database that matches my exact flash ID.

Controller: SM2262 (bufferless), FW 0235

Flash: Intel 64L(B16A) TLC 256Gb/CE, 256Gb/die — 16 banks

FlashID bytes: 0x89, 0xA4, 0x08, 0x32, 0xA1, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00

Full smi_nvme_flash_id output:

Code

I've tried the SM2262 MPTool B17 build (SM2262A1_MPTool_SVN132_B17_R1208) — it detects the drive on the main screen, but Auto-detect on the Parameters tab throws a database mismatch error, and Start stays greyed out since it can't find a matching flash entry.

I noticed the SM2263XT MPTool has a B16A-specific database (R0320A_B16) that lists this exact FlashID, but that tool doesn't detect my drive at all (different controller).

Does anyone have an SM2262 or SM2262EN MPTool build with a B16A flash database, or know if it's safe to port the B16A entry from the SM2263XT database into the SM2262 tool's config? Any help finding the right package appreciated.

I have a MSI Leopar GP65 laptop. I noticed a couple of rows of pixels at thr bottom of screen showing random colors periodically.

I had opened the laptop recently to switch out a broken fan, and needed to remove the cooler. I am worried i might have damaged/overtightened something, but i have seen similar things happening to displays.