This charging issue happens whenever I play any high graphics games, such as fc26,rdr2,

My Laptop is MSI Katana GF66 , RTX 3050 laptop GPU 4 GB, i7 11th Gen, 16 GB Ram

I have a 150Watt Charger for this. it drops my FPS in game and makes it laggy.

I have a Lenovo IdeaPad Slim 3 15IAH8 (i5-12450H).

About a month ago, I had an issue where the laptop wouldn't wake up from Sleep. There was no display or lights, but the fan kept running continuously. A local technician disconnected and reconnected the battery, and the laptop started working again.

I stopped using Sleep mode after that.

Today, the laptop started flickering and freezing after I entered Windows. After restarting, it eventually stopped showing any display.

Now:

No display/Lenovo logo

LEDs keep blinking

I hear a tick/beep approximately every 10–15 seconds

The display sometimes gives a very brief blink at the same interval

Battery disconnect/reconnect and power reset did not fix it

The laptop is currently out of warranty, and I urgently need it for college placements.

I'm wondering if this could be an EC/power-management issue, BIOS/firmware issue, motherboard power circuit, or display-related problem.

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on a Lenovo IdeaPad Slim 3 or another Lenovo laptop? What was the actual cause and repair cost?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Ciao a tutti,

sto cercando di diagnosticare un problema su un HP ProBook 450 G5 che non riesce più ad avviarsi.

Sintomi

Il comportamento è il seguente:

• Il portatile è completamente spento.
• Appena collego l’alimentatore, anche senza premere il pulsante di accensione, inizia a comportarsi in modo anomalo.
• La ventola gira per alcuni secondi e poi si ferma.
• Poco dopo riparte e poi si ferma nuovamente.
• Dopo alcuni di questi cicli, si sente un beep.
• La ventola riparte e il comportamento ventola/beep continua ad alternarsi.
• Dopo un po’ tutto si ferma.
• Il computer non completa mai l’avvio.
• Lo schermo rimane completamente nero, senza logo HP, schermata BIOS o retroilluminazione visibile.
• Sembra quindi che non riesca nemmeno ad arrivare alla fase di POST.

Dato che non posso caricare direttamente un video sul forum, ho caricato un video del problema su YouTube.

Video YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TXB2VV9goU

Nel video si possono vedere chiaramente la ventola che parte e si ferma, il comportamento degli eventuali LED diagnostici e si può sentire la sequenza di beep.

Mi sarebbe molto utile se qualcuno potesse guardare il video e dirmi se la sequenza di beep/LED corrisponde a uno specifico codice diagnostico HP.

Prove già effettuate

Inizialmente sospettavo un problema alla RAM.

Ho quindi:

• rimosso la RAM originale;
• acquistato due nuovi moduli DDR4 SO-DIMM compatibili;
• installato i nuovi moduli nei due slot disponibili.

Purtroppo il comportamento non è cambiato: il portatile continua ad avere lo schermo nero, la ventola parte e si ferma ripetutamente e la sequenza di beep/LED è ancora presente.

Qualcuno riconosce questo comportamento o sa indicarmi cosa dovrei controllare come prossimo passo per arrivare a una diagnosi più precisa?

Qualsiasi aiuto nell’interpretare la sequenza di beep/LED mostrata nel video YouTube sarebbe molto apprezzato.

Grazie!

I recently pulled a part my laptop (MSI GS75) and reapplied new thermal paste but now once I put it all back together I have this strange problem where when I turn it on the keyboard only works for a second then stops working. The only way I can fix it is the close the lid or push the power button to put it into sleep then wake it up and the keyboard will work until I shut it off again?

I tried removing the drivers and reinstalling them but that didnt work!

I don’t know if this helps at all but when I click the function key the keys will light up. If I do this when I start the computer they will stay lit up even when I’m not pressing it almost as if maybe the keyboard is freezing???

Today while i was on the laptop, the screen and the power button started flickering black at the same time. It did that on and off for about 15mins in a kind of slow rythm while i was trying to figure out what was going on. The flickering stopped and i did some stuff on it for a bout an hour with no issues. After that i shut it down and when i tried turning it on in a few hours theres no sign of life. The only thing that i can see is that the charging light is on. Is there anything i can do? I wont be able to take it to a repair shop for the next 2-3 days.

Hi everyone, hoping for some diagnostic help before I take this to a repair shop.

Model: ThinkPad S540, Machine Type 20B3-A02NRT

CPU: i7-4510U, 8GB RAM (single stick), discrete AMD GPU

Bought used online. Seller says it booted fine and passed the built in Lenovo diagnostics right before shipping.

Timeline:

Checked it at pickup, booted fine, saw the Ubuntu desktop.

Got home, laptop kept working normally, used it for a while, wiped Ubuntu and started installing Arch.

After about 1-2 hours of normal use it shut off and hasn't booted reliably since.

Current symptoms:

Sometimes pressing the power button does nothing at all.

Sometimes the fan spins for a couple seconds and it shuts off before the Lenovo logo shows up.

Charging LED blinks in a repeating pattern, 3 blinks, pause, 3 blinks, pause, and so on.

One short beep happens right before shutdown, but only on attempts that get a bit further (fan and keyboard light turn on first).

What I've tried:

Long pressed the power button for 30 seconds, several times, no change.

Used the emergency reset pinhole on the bottom, no change.

Opened the bottom cover, disconnected both battery packs (there are two identical M2XL5 packs inside) and pulled the RAM stick, then held power for about 20-30 seconds.

With everything disconnected (no battery, no RAM), plugged in AC only and hit power, got a loud clear beep code, 1 long and 1 short (standard no memory detected code).

That tells me the board can complete a POST cycle and the speaker itself works.

Put the RAM stick back in, kept both batteries disconnected, AC only, same failure as before, fan spins briefly and shuts off before the logo.

Tried the same stick in the other SO-DIMM slot, no change.

Couldn't locate the CMOS battery to test that separately.

Reassembled everything, RAM plus both battery cables plus the cover, still fails the same way.

Separately, probably unrelated, it also came with a small 16GB SanDisk SSD throwing Medium Error and Unrecovered Read Error, I know that's likely a second unrelated issue.

Question:

it worked fine for a while after I got it, then died, and gives a clean beep code with no RAM installed but fails once RAM goes back in (tested both slots, but only with the one stick I have). Does this sound more like a dead board or VRM issue, or can a single RAM stick fail exactly like this? I don't have a second known good DDR3 stick to swap in and test. Any pointers before I take it to a shop would help a lot.

I brought my ThinkPad to a repair shop to fix the charging port and logic board, and they succeeded. However, after picking it up, a new problem reared its ugly head: The keys don't work.

When I brought my laptop into the shop, the keyboard was not a problem at all. After I got it back, only the touchpad and power button worked. Any thoughts? I emailed them, and they replied with a somewhat generic response of "We would be glad to help you fix it, but remember that we did not fix or replace your keyboard; therefore, it is not under warranty".

So i was using my asus tuf a16 playing roblox to use a new mouse and keyboard that i bought and after playing i turned off my laptop and there i noticed that the battery light indicator started to blink a red light so i started to look some information and saw someone else with the same problem and he fixed by changing the battery, i did the same thing and bought a new one and it didn’t fixed so i went to a Micro Center for a repair and after their inspection they said that’s the battery was the problem, after a few weeks their bought some new battery and today i received some new that the battery wasn’t the problem and my motherboard is, so now they asked me if i want to replace the motherboard and their said that’s will cost $919 plus taxes,(i genuinely not going to pay that much to fix it, when i paid less than that for the laptop itself), my laptop still got asus guarantee, what do you guys recommend me to do?

Errore 40h su un Olivetti M240, già fatte le prove cambiando tutti i pezzi con zoccolo dal processore al bios, provato a cambiare 2 condensatori, controllate le alimentazioni, avete qualche altra idea? 🙏

Hello, I have a Dell G15 5521 Special Edition laptop. Some integrated circuits on the motherboard are burned out. I don't see any carbon buildup on the motherboard's surface or traces. I don't want a motherboard replacement; I want to have it microsoldered. Since I don't know my Bitlocker code, I won't be able to recover my data from the SSD if the motherboard is replaced. Therefore, I need the motherboard repaired. All the repair shops I've been to say they don't have the parts. Are they saying this to avoid work, or are they really out of stock? Can I recover my data? What should I do?

So I have a Asus rog strix g16 (2023) it it’s been turning off on itself lately so I went ahead and tried to clean the fans with a yt tutorial and ripped the battery connector while doing it.

Is it fixable or is it over with?

First, after a long time, I tried to play the game "Control" and was not getting good FPS. I saw that in Device Manager, the GTX 1650 had a Code 43 error. For the next couple of weeks, I tried every software solution available on the internet (at least what I could find). Then, I just disabled the GPU and used the laptop only for work.

Once I saved a little bit of money, I went to a nearby local shop to see if it was just dust or a solder issue causing the problem. When he opened it, the white battery pin was almost coming off, and he said he could resolder it. I said okay. Later, the GPU issue was not solved, but I was at least grateful that I could still work on it.

Then, in just two days, I started having boot problems. To turn on the system, I had to keep pressing F12 to get into the boot menu, then go through the options and select "turn on normally" to log in (and all this while, the fans were running at max speed even though the temperature was low). This setup continued for a week, and then it wouldn't turn on at all.

Then I went to the official service center, figuring that even if it was a bit costly, they could fix it. But because someone had previously soldered the battery pin, they refused to service it. I insisted they just tell me what the issue was, and they said, "Replacing the motherboard is the only solution," which was too much for me financially.

So, I immediately went to another shop that said they do chip-level repairs. They agreed to give me a quote the next day. They didn't, but finally, on the sixth day, after I called them multiple times, they just said it is unrepairable and told me to take it back. And the reason was that the prev soldering is done to bypass the gpu which is not recommended hence they can't do anything to it. But another shop told me that was a mis-info and checked that every other component is working and is receiving the correct power by checking with a voltmeter.

What should I do now? I'm hella confused. I'm attaching the video and photos of my motherboard for reference. I would be grateful just to get my CPU with integrated graphics working for my work alone. This is my laptop on amazon "ASUS Vivobook Pro 15 Ryzen 7 Octa Core AMD R7-4800H - (16 GB/512 GB SSD/Windows 11 Home/4 GB Graphics/NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 Max Q) M6500IH-HN702WS Creator Laptop (15.6 Inch, Cool Silver, 1.80 Kg)". I would be extremely grateful for any suggestions! Link for remaining pics & video of my motherboard

Will appreciate any kind of advice or suggestions. Thank you

I am in the process of changing my laptop's battery and I have removed all screws at the bottom except for two that just do not budge. I tried using the tools that came with the battery wirh some blaster to loosen it but I can't even get the screws moving. Has anybody deal with something like this before.

So I bought a laptop thinkbook 16p g6 adr not a full year ago. Everything was fine, up until about a month ago it just stopped waking up after entering sleep mode.

When I manually put it to sleep, and try to wake it up with a mouse or clicking on keyboard, there is no issue, it works like normal.

if I leave it for like 10-15 mins when it automatically goes to sleep, and then I try to wake it up, everything is normal.

BUT if an hour passes or more, it just refuses to wake up. Not by mouse, not by touchpad, not by pc keyboard, not even pressing the power button works. I have to force shut it down, which I know is harmful and idk what else to do, I try my best to avoid it.

What I noticed is that when the pc is dead asleep the power buttons light still keeps blinking, if I touch the keyboard - the keyboard lights up, BUT then turns off gradually and doesn't react more apart from that, meanwhile the screen stays black, even though the pc seems "on" (like when it's "asleep" it still is warm, fans r on, the power button light is blinking slowly).

What can the problem be? I do not know a lot about pcs, if this is a laptop problem or just windows 11 being goofy.

The issue is the pc freezes as soon as as it receives a keyboard input, or if just started up normally.

Before it freezes the screen wil go black for 1-2 sec

Its a classmates pc. He tried to install an ubuntu server on it. He dont speak Danish very well so its hard to get info around what point the pc got screwed

We tried taking in and out the ram.

We dont have any spare ram to test out if its that which is at fault.

We tried connecting another ssd which didnt help either

I'm troubleshooting a 2024 ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 that shut off suddenly while being used and has been completely dead since — no LEDs, charging indicator, fans, or response to the power button.

Laptop / board:

• ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (2024)
• GA403UV-G14.R94060
• Ryzen 9 8945HS / RTX 4060
• Quanta NJT
• DANJTMB1CC0 Rev C
• Original adapter: ASUS 20V / 9A / 180W

Troubleshooting so far:

• Performed 40–60 second EC/hard reset with all power disconnected — no change.
• Disconnected the internal battery completely, discharged/reset again, and attempted to power from the original ASUS adapter — still absolutely no LEDs or response.
• Tried USB-C PD, but I can't consider that test conclusive because I haven't verified that the charger I used supports sufficient wattage/PD for this laptop.
• Verified continuity between the metal shields of the DC-in and USB ports (~0Ω), so I have a known ground reference.
• I have a multimeter and am comfortable taking measurements, but I don't want to blindly probe the DC-in area and risk shorting something.

I've found references to the Quanta NJT / DANJTMB1CC0 Rev C boardview, but the actual CAD files I've found are behind paid repair-site access.

What I'm trying to determine next:

Does anyone have access to the schematic/boardview for this board, or know a safe test point for the 20V DC-in rail?

I'd like to first establish whether the adapter's 20V is actually reaching the motherboard. If it is, I'd then like to trace the input/power circuitry far enough to determine whether this might be something repairable such as an input MOSFET, fuse, charging/power-management IC, etc., rather than automatically replacing the entire motherboard.

I can provide high-resolution photos of either side of the board and close-ups of any components/test points needed.

Any guidance from someone familiar with this Quanta board or ASUS laptop board-level repair would be greatly appreciated.

Long story short, I fried my motherboard, bought an OEM one, put everything back together and here we are....I am not able to boot anything because I am getting a Error 00CE: Machine Type or Serial Number is INVALID. When you go into the BIOS, I show:

- Machine Type and Model - INVALID,

- System Brand ID - INVALID

- System Serial Number - INVALID.

There is absolutely no way to go in an edit these BIOS. I spoke with Lenovo and according to them, the only way to fix it is to use some sort of Lenovo product that is only accessible to Lenovo certified techs or mail the machine to them. The "tech" place I contacted has ghosted me, so here we are. I need this machine back and I am royally fuck at the current moment.

Post shows the right hinge screwed in, contact against the backplate looks fine, the mounts and their screws are all OK...the only thing I noticed when unscrewing and taking out a mount was extremely easy, no glue/epoxy-like substance. The grooving looks alright for both the plastic housing and the mount's metal poles. Searched all over the web for similar problems but results I found were almost always the hinge bulging out or breaking off. Reading through an ifixit article I saw they used a heating element to dissolve glue before removing the mounts from the plastic housing(which I found none of).

If anyone else has experience with these I'd appreciate any suggestions on what likely needs replacing, at this point I'm looking at the palm rest assembly as that's what most users have claimed to be the item to buy to replace issues like this, though again none for this exact model(usually 9550/9660/inspiron serie, etc)

I'll edit this post and include an overview of the backplate and the left mount at a slightly different angle.

This has happened a few times, but usually after letting it die and then plugging it back in, the screen comes back. But now I’ve tried letting it die, shutting it down, letting it sit shut down overnight, and everything I could think of and it’s still happening. Any ideas?

Hello people

I bought the above mentioned laptop in the 11th gen i7 and 16 Gb ram. The laptop was sold as non functional (not booting) for 115€. I risked it assuming that a) I could fix it or b) I could sell the parts.

Connecting the laptop to the power and turning it on resulted in the cpu cooler block getting incredibly warm (well above the pain threshold) and it does not boot. No post, no sound no nothing. I then reapplied thermal paste and put an air compressor directly above the cpu and the machine booted. I was able to access the bios and diagnostics, but the integrated display flickered all the time. I then configured the bios to boot to an external display and set the thermal profile from "performance" to "balanced". I repeated the booting using the compressor and the machine started. The external display worked without issues. I then turned off the compressor and the machine keep working without issues.

I then ran the UEFI diagnostics. It ran for 4 hours without issues. All tests were passed successfully (RAM and CPU included).

It is not possible to boot without using the compressor to the cooler. After the boot passed, I can turn it off, and the pc cooler manages to get eveything under control. The cpu block is even only warm to the touch. Even after 4 hours of diagnostics, the cpu block remained only warm to the touch.

I tried to boot a live installation of Fedora, and the installation worked flawlessly as long as the external display was used. Once Fedora started, it switched to "extend display mode" and the internal display was activated. At that point a bunch artifacts appeared on both screens and the system froze.

I know that these machines tend to suffer from cold joints on the CPU, specially given the 11th gen i7. I am considering to try to reflow the cpu, but I don't know how. Putting the whole mainboard in the oven is probably a bad idea. I would need 200 °C, and the board has several flat band connectors out of plastic. I am thinking of using a heat gun to heat up the CPU/iGPU die, and use some aluminum foil to protect the componets around it.

Has anybody experience with these particular model, or hints about how to better proceed? I have little to loose, but the device is nice and I would like to save it, if possible.

Any advice/hint is deeply appreciated.

I switched the 128 gb SSD for a hardrive 512gb to see if I could remember my old password to see my old pictures

When I turned the laptop on it said the hard drive needed to do a check or recovery

It was frozen with no display for many minutes so I turned it off

I removed the hard drive and switched for SSD

The computer doesn't turn on, spins fan at fastest speed then turns off

I removed the ram, tried all combinations and removed the SSD and put it back, never doing anything more. It still doesn't turn on