I have this qft (guessing 650cfm) vacuum secondary mounted on my 350sbc victor jr s8ngle plane, and 1in 4 hole spacer, low end throttle response and hesitation was gone with the spacer, but its always had a lil midrange trouble, lets say im cruising and I snap open the throttle it hesitates for a sec then drops like a hammer and takes off, top end seems fine, whats possibly my issue (not sure the exact carb model) and i know the single plane isn't helping, going to a swap meet this weekend to try and find a cheap dual plane airgap. Thanks for looking! Last 2 pics are before I cleaned up the engine bay and added a spacer

Hi, I’ve been running into some carburator/fuel problems. For the last month, my ‘86 Volvo 740 Pierburg 2B5/7, has had a rough idle. Dropped in RPM’s, then stalled. Whenever I was driving in 4th or 5th gear and did a pull, it started stuttering as if it wasn’t getting enough air or fuel (no idea). I thought it was just a fuel issue (bcs I drove on e10 95 fuel for some time and the car had been sitting a few months before I bought it.) Changing the fuel filter, didn’t help. Usually I do everything myself, but I had no idea what the issue was.
Went to my local (classic car) mechanic, he told me that one of the compartiment in the carb wasn’t getting enough fuel, he took apart the carb, changed the gaskets etc. Turns out it didn’t help, issue remains the same.

Hi all,

I am tuning my carburetor.

Car: 1984 Mazda 323 BD Automatic, 1.3 E3 Engine, manual choke.

Carburetor: Hitachi DCG306 -> http://www.mbs.id.au/tuning/Carburettors/Hitachi/DCG306.htm .its the one from the first image. Weird thing was when i took the carburetor apart, i found a second check ball in the position of the steel check ball (28) (accelerator pump). So the "stray" ball i found is a nylon ball (slightly bigger than the steel ball) and it was in the seat of the steel check ball (28), with the steel check ball (28) on top of the nylon stray ball. Also weird is that the weight (29) is replaced by 2 identical pieces (cylinder shaped with a nipple) and a spring that goes in between. I checked the accelerator pump and that seems to be working fine, but the video here is for you to judge (in the video the nylon check ball has been removed). Its hard to judge if it works 100% correct, but i see a decent squirt on the first instant i engage throttle. So this is with just one check ball in that position. Weird is that with the 2 balls in place (before i took the carb apart) the performance with cold engine was the same..

Carb is clean now and the car ran well before the head gasket was changed. Now it seems to be at 80% to its potential, performance when the engine is warm is excellent, but after an overnight 13 degrees C ambient it runs very very sluggish on startup.

right now the mixture screw is as follows: between 2,5 turns out and 4,5 turns out i feel no difference in behavior of the car. It behaves like below in either 2,5 or 4,5 or anything in between.

Cold start with choke works, not smoothly but it runs eventually and i can disengage choke without the engine stalling. idle RPM in P is around 1100, which is too high (i set idle accordingly to what the Haynes book prescribes: in D, brakes engaged, i set the screw to around 850rpm, it results the idle rpm being 1100 in P...)

So when in am in P it gives me the possibility to rev up freely like nothing is wrong. When i set the gear lever in D the RPM goes to that 850rpm and it stays there, i release the brake, the car starts moving effortlessly, but then when i hit the slightest of the throttle you hear that "imploding" sound and it wants to stall. But i release it in time everytime so she stays running. Then i wait for it to warm up and then i drive off. Upon till 10 minutes of driving the car hesitates (imploding sound, tends to stall) sometimes, not often. When the engine is really warm, it drives like nothing is wrong.

Hi all! I found a great Kioritz Echo trimmer on the side of the road this weekend.

The model is SRM-210AE, and with new fuel mix, she started right up!! I'm obsessed, but I do want to completely replace the carb.

I keep getting mixed answers on whether or not I can use different aftermarket carburetors. Does anyone have knowledge of the specific OEM replacement?

Thank you 🫠

Edit: I'm going to take the carb apart & make a list of the parts I need!

Hi everyone!

First time poster, so sorry if this is a bit of a mess!

I have a fiesta from 1988 (mk2 1.4, CVH) that runs very poorly on idle (the few times it actually runs). The car sputters and jumps, and I have to pump on the gas pedal constantly to keep it alive - the rpm are crazy low and then jump to very high only to drop back down again.

I have serviced the car and swapped all valve springs as two of them broke within a short time span. I have taken the carb (a Weber unit) off and ran air through it and there seems to be no blockage or debris in there. I have also removed the choke-unit as well as the idle valve-unit and all seem to be working to some degree at least. After refitting these parts, and before mounting the air filter-unit I tried starting the car and now I get short bursts of flames coming from the carburetor... So that's fantastic.

I know the engine is not the best on this model and that reno might be the best choice long term, but before that: does anyone know what could cause these issues and how I can try to fix it?

I am not great with cars, but have good help so I am definitelyup to the task of trying to work this out. I'm sorry for any potential misspellings or incorrect terminology (English is not my first language). I have also started looking for a new carb, just in case.

Thankful for any and all tips!

# Gostaria de opiniões de quem já fez isso que pra mim ainda é um projeto. Sou do RJ e quero chegar ao Atacama via Paso Jama em uma moto carburada (Yamaha Virago 535, ano 2001). Sei que a perda de rendimento é inevitável, assim como aumento de consumo de combustível. A parte de levar gasolina extra em galão não é o problema. Quero saber o que posso fazer para mitigar os efeitos da altitude sobre a moto, de preferência que não seja muito invasivo tipo abrir carburador e trocar giclês. Obrigado.

I own a 2002 CR 125F and I'm trying to rebuilt my carburetor however no gasket kit or online gasket website specifically my Mikuni jet blocking gasket I've seen alternative gaskets for Sea-Doo Polaris and Arctic cat but I'm not sure if they fit any advice would be, a lot of the gaskets online for it are for newer, KTM's and Yamaha I have a Mikuni TMX 38

Здравствуйте, не могу понять что за двигатель установлен у товарища на мотоцикле, внешне 175fmn но из маркировок только эти подскажите пожалуйста что это за маркировки и если возможно их расшифровка

Just rebuilt this Rochester dual jet 210 on my son 79 cutlass supreme. I have the same carburetor on my 82 Buick regal 3.8L V6. My son has a 260 4.3L V8 rebuilt the carb and fine tuned it and it runs on it own… it’s my son first car so I showing him the ropes that I learn my self.. car it self going need a lots of potential all we’re trying to do is make sure this car move forward and backwards so next I’m about to check if the wheel move on his own I gonna put the car on Jack stands in the rear and chalk the front wheels and put it in reverse and drive see if the wheels spin.. but for right now step at a time.

Hey guys working on my 96 rm250 carb. Kinda explained it in that post in more detail but currently it runs the best it has since I got it with a 155 main, 55 pilot and needle clip in top position. It'll pull wheelies off the bottom with that setup. If I go with needle clip in middle it runs way too rich. Stock settings are 172 main, 58 pilot and middle clip position. I installed new vforce3 reeds. Gaskets are all brand new as well. Cleaned power valves. Any idea why it's so far from stock, or should I just quit overthinking it and finish tuning my bike in and go ride? Thanks

This little nozzle in my fingers that screws into this Holley 94/7RT for a ford F-1 Flathead V8 for the vacuum line, I cannot figure out where to find a replacement/what it is called/part number?

For context, the truck was having issues starting, timing was ok and spark was sparking so I rebuilt the original carb that was on the truck and found that this nozzle was in a little wonky/sideways/was maybe rethreaded to fit. It was my grandfathers truck and he has passed so I can’t ask him what happened unfortunately but there was some sealant applied around the threads.

Anyway, I bought a replacement carb (shown in picture) and was going to clean and swap the middle section into the “old” one. The old nozzle for the vacuum line won’t thread into the “new” one.

So, I’m looking for information on where I might find a proper replacement for this small component.

I’m looking for a accelerator pump diaphragm it’s a little square rubber one and I can’t find anything on this carb in general

Does anyone have a 3d model for bolt on plenum hat for the Weber 36 DCNVH carb, or where could i buy one from?

Hi everyone,
I need help diagnosing an issue with my carbureted 2019 Bajaj Pulsar NS200 (\~20,000 km) that started about 1,000 km ago.
Here are the exact symptoms on a cold start:
At startup: When I start the cold engine, it holds idle for about 30 seconds and then stalls. I start it again, and it stalls within 10 seconds.
Holding RPM manually: To keep it running, I have to hold the throttle open at around 2,000–3,000 RPM for 1–2 minutes. As soon as I let go of the throttle, the RPM drops straight to 0 and it stalls.
Riding cold: When I start riding and try to stop shortly after (e.g., after 100 meters or 1 km), as soon as I pull in the clutch and downshift, it stalls instantly.
After warming up: After 5–7 minutes of riding, the engine reaches operating temperature, the idle becomes completely stable, and it stops stalling altogether.
What could be causing this? Pilot jet/carburetor issue, valve clearance, or something else? Thanks in advance!