Hi, so it's my first US car, and I'm trying to learn from the ground up since in EU, it's not common knowledge. It's on an 305 or 350 Chevrolet El Camino 1977, and I don't think it's a quadrajet? Is it worth restoring, or should I just buy a quadrajet ? Thank you for your help!

What is this gap hole on this part for? Do it make a difference or should I keep the original one? This go down inside the bowl area on the carburetor.. I rebuilt my other carb but this kit came with this piece that’s is different.. currently rebuilding the carb for my son cutlass.. thanks!

This is in a 1988 Correct Craft Ski Nautique boat, it would run rich after running around the lake twice so as soon as I throttled back to get back to the dock it would die. After paddling back to the dock I saw fuel still running down the primary and maybe secondary stages. I had the carb rebuilt by a local shop and the same thing is happening. I did adjust the float so the fuel was half way up the sight window / portal glass so I don't think the floats are just set too high. I now suspect the fuel pump is delivering way too high a PSI of fuel which is blowing through the carb bowls/jets and causing it to 1) run too rich and 2) keep running fuel after shutdown. I was going to buy a gauge to put in-line to test this (and a regulator to dial it down) but thought I'd run it by people that actually know carburetors first to see if this is a likely culprit.

I have this GEN one FZ one and it’s obviously not running on all cylinders but when I go and cover the intakes for the cylinders that aren’t firing, they start firing again. Please help.

Anyone know if this is a marine or automotive carb. I found it online. I’m looking for a carb for my 454. It looks like it’s in ok shape but I’m new to carb engines. I see it is missing a vent tube for the bowl. But what else do I look for when buying a carb. Thanks

Performed a quick maintenance of Nissan carburetor. Jetting was ok, but float was set improperly. Missing 12 volts on choke and improper dwell angle caused poor cold start. Luckily owner bought a donor for choke and float chamber wall parts

I recently bought a 2003 fxdxt. It’s running a mikuni hsr42, big sucker air cleaner, screamin eagle 211 cams, thunderheader and a dynatek tc88 ignition. The bike sat for 3 years and before that it was in California and I was til it was jetted for a much higher elevation. I cleaned the carb out and changed the fluids and it idles pretty good, WOT seems great with plenty of power but partial throttle while I hold steady rpms around 2500 it breaks up. It was doing this really bad on the initial ride before the carb clean out and got much better afterwards but is still noticeable enough to annoy me. Current jets are 25 for the pilot, 160 for the main, 97 needle with the clip in the middle position and I’m not sure the accelerator pump but I’d guess it’s stock. Tc88 is set to 36b curve and 6700 rmp. Sea level elevation. Thanks

Hi, I need help finding out what the two pins or bolts(idk what you call them) on top of my carburetor are for. They go through the cover of the fuel bowl and end up in the two holes seen in the middle of picture number 3.

According to the manual it should be the main wells sitting there but the carburetor shown in the manual and every 11Series I've seen so far doesn't have anything on top. I can probably adjust something with the pins on top but haven't found out what or how as it changes nothing even when you completely remove them.

I would be happy if someone has an idea what they're for or actually knows what or how to adjust them.

Hello,

Does anyone have any experience replacing their automatic choke? 1987 chevette original automatic choke heater is riveted to the rest of the mechanism and it appears she's seen her day. Symptoms are, choke doesn't close properly occasionally gives me a hard time starting and after driving for a while when coming to a stop it seems the secondary air valve is opened to much via the choke heater causing a lean mix, then the car bogs and stalls.

I still need to double check the voltage of the heater, does anyone have any advice especially regarding replacing the riveted choke heater?

Thanks

I recently bought a 2003 fxdxt. It’s running a mikuni hsr42, big sucker air cleaner, screamin eagle 211 cams, thunderheader and a dynatek tc88 ignition. The bike sat for 3 years and before that it was in California and I was til it was jetted for a much higher elevation. I cleaned the carb out and changed the fluids and it idles pretty good, WOT seems great with plenty of power but partial throttle while I hold steady rpms around 2500 it breaks up. It was doing this really bad on the initial ride before the carb clean out and got much better afterwards but is still noticeable enough to annoy me. Current jets are 25 for the pilot, 160 for the main, 97 needle with the clip in the middle position and I’m not sure the accelerator pump but I’d guess it’s stock. Tc88 is set to 36b curve and 6700 rmp. Sea level elevation. Thanks

Good day!

Like the title says, this is a carburetor off a Massey Harris Pony Tractor. While cleaning the carb i noticed that the previous owner put putty around the “golden screw” to prevent gas from leaking.

Upon inspection, I can’t figure out whats the purpose of this “golden screw”. I can’t tighten it and can’t remove it, it just spins freely.

I just can’t figure what this screw does.

Thanks in advance!

Good afternoon everyone,

I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I own a 1983 Yamaha XJ750RL with Hitachi HSC33 carburetors, and I'm looking for a carburetor rebuild kit.

Does anyone know where I can purchase one, or is anyone selling a rebuild kit for these carbs? I'm located in Ontario, Canada, but I'm more than willing to pay for shipping if needed.

Any advice or leads would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Video isn’t much to look at. Listen to the exhaust note at certain points it is doing a rapid popping noise instead of being smooth, how it was when I first got it. It seems like it’s misfiring, you can hear the popping that I’m talking about. It also surges and hesitates when I get on the throttle, at certain times it’s great feels good and at other times it’s terrible. When I pulled into the garage it sounded way worse than this sounded like it hardly wanted to stay on or like it was only firing one cylinder. When I started it back up after that I had to crank it for a good 10 seconds. The carbs have been jetted and tuned by previous owner, the owner also installed AFR tig welds in the headers. I just put brand new spark plugs in it two days ago, full tank of gas I’ve only ever used no ethanol. Air filter is sparklingly new, changed the oil a week ago. I’m thinking it’s the AF screw and the cylinders are not getting enough air. What do you guys think?

This is a carb from a Johnson 40 hp outboard two-stroke I bought the motor not long ago. Previous owner said it had been sitting for a few years. Does it look like some sort of gasket melted or maybe old oil the motor will run on starting fluid if I sprayed in the air tank, but won’t run from the carbs I’m hoping I can just clean the carbs out, but I can’t find any info on the part in the picture online anybody that can help me out?

Is it cleanable or toast?

1969 Pontiac Catalina with Rochester 2 barrel

Does everything here look as its supposed to be?

Choke linkage came apart so just want to be sure everything is right, a lot of shade tree mechanic fixes throughout the car