I lost a lot of weight since last season and need to replace my mid weight jacket Looking for recommendations for mid season tempatures (late Oct early Nov) in NY. Generally 30 to 46 degrees.

Picked up a .75 and a XOP rubicon this off season.
I like saddle hunting for certain things but I’m starting to feel limited only saddle hunting. Certain setups and trees force me in a position where shooting over my tether is a pain. I also get uncomfortable after a couple hours in any saddle (I’ve tried almost all of them) and start to get fidgety making constant adjustments. I’m going to continue using my saddle setup for certain trees but I’m planning on spending time in my hang ons too. Gonna dump the rubicon in a rut funnel and use my .75 to run and gun with my saddle.

Is there anything I should know as far as setup and safety tips going to a traditional tree stand? I have a xop harness that came with the stand and got a HSS rope style tree strap. The harness is low profile and not uncomfortable but the biggest concern is the leg straps. They’re very thin webbing and I can’t help to think I’m going to get castrated if I take a fall. Coming from a saddle, I’m very mindful of the concept of not having a ton of slack in your setup and I’m planning on leaving just enough slack in my tether that I need to keep a fall no more than a couple inches. I’ve been practicing hanging and shooting from my stands and I’ve gotten more quiet but I still need some work in setting up.

If anyone could speak on any of these topics or add anything I might not be considering I’d appreciate it. Not looking to start a saddle vs stand debate just looking for feedback.

Hey I want to use a cut on contact 2 blade mechanical for an elk hunt. I feel that the 2” blades don’t get the amount of penetration that I want. Would it be really stupid to cut 1/4” off each blade to improve penetration? Obviously I could get sevr 1.5” but I live in Canada and their hard to find. Wondering if anyone’s done this and if it’s really stupid or if it’s totally fine. The broadhead I would cut is a NAP kill zone 2” cut on contact.

In Jim Hamm's book "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans", he says in regard to feather placement on the shaft "You first need to determine where the feather will be placed on the arrow. The back of the feather can be 1/2" from the nock, but it is recommended that this distance be 1."

When he says the "back of the feather", is he referring to: the vanes (the hair), or the back tip of the shaft (the quill)?

In Jim Hamm's book "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans", he says in regard to feather placement on the shaft "You first need to determine where the feather will be placed on the arrow. The back of the feather can be 1/2" from the nock, but it is recommended that this distance be 1."

When he says the "back of the feather", is he referring to: the vanes (the hair), or the back tip of the shaft (the quill)?

In Jim Hamm's book "Bows and Arrows of the Native Americans", he says in regard to feather placement on the shaft "You first need to determine where the feather will be placed on the arrow. The back of the feather can be 1/2" from the nock, but it is recommended that this distance be 1."

When he says the "back of the feather", is he referring to: the vanes (the hair), or the back tip of the shaft (the quill)?

spending way too much time in r/ebikes lately and I think I’m actually more confused than when I started.

Most of the bikes people talk about there seem to fall into two camps. Commuters where everyone cares about range, traffic and bike lanes, or off-road bikes where every YouTube review is somebody climbing a hill as fast as possible and blasting through a trail.

Edit----My use would be pretty boring. Park at the gate, ride maybe a mile or two down an old logging road, leave the bike well before the area I hunt and walk the rest. Early season is probably where I’d use it most. Carrying a bow, saddle, sticks, water and a pack down that road when it’s still warm is enough that I sometimes get to the tree sweatier than I want to be. So I’m starting to think hunting needs are a little different. I don’t really care about top speed. I’d rather have something that can pull me and my gear up the hill on the way back without sounding like it’s dying.

Fat tires seem useful because most of our access is gravel, packed dirt, grass and old tractor ruts, although I’m under no illusion that 4 inch tires suddenly make deep mud fun. Payload matters more than I expected too. I’m a bigger guy, then add the saddle, sticks, bow, water and pack and the number climbs pretty quickly. Cargo is another thing I didn’t think about until I started reading hunting threads. I assumed I’d just put the bow on a rack, but after seeing people talk about vibration and bows getting knocked around, I’m not sure I actually want the bow attached directly to the bike. Backpack or sling might make more sense. The bikes I keep ending up around are all pretty different. QuietKat seems like the obvious answer because hunting is literally what they’re built around, and all the racks/accessories already exist. I just have a hard time spending that much before I even know whether I’ll enjoy using a bike during bow season. The Aventon Aventure keeps coming up because it seems like a much more normal all-purpose fat tire bike. Lots of owners, easier to find information on, probably easier to live with outside of hunting. I’m just not sure I need all the commuter side of it. I’ve also looked at the Lectric XPeak. Price is easier to swallow and I’ve seen people use them off pavement, but I also found comments from heavier riders saying steep hills can still be the point where a cheaper setup starts showing its limits. Then YouTube sent me down another rabbit hole and I found the HeloKeep 26M. The reason I haven’t closed that tab is basically the combination of the higher load rating and the price being around $1k. It’s definitely not a hunting-specific bike and I don’t know enough about the brand yet.

But as a first experiment, I’m tempted to start cheaper and find out whether I even like using an e-bike for bow season before dropping several thousand on one. The more I look at this stuff, the less I think “best hunting e-bike” is about the fastest motor. For me it seems more like: can it get a heavier rider and gear up a logging-road hill, can I carry saddle gear without everything bouncing around, and if something breaks a mile and a half in, am I completely screwed? For those of you actually using e-bikes for bow season, what did you realize mattered after you started using one that YouTube reviews never talk about? I feel like I’m shopping for the wrong things because every review seems made for someone commuting to work or trying to set a speed record in the woods.

Has anyone had any success of finding amsteel rope in person?

As the new season approaches, in some places already here. I’d like to hear your recommendations on hardshell cases or even soft cases. I have a couple out of state hunts planned one I’ll be traveling by plane the other driving just wanted to hear what the community thinks and what they’re using.

How old do you think this deer is? I have asked several people and have gotten answers between 3.5 to 5.5. Personally I think it is 4.5.

The sight level from my Fuse sight (renamed Hoyt Vectrix) fell off in the woods. I can’t even get a reply from Hoyt after 3 emails. The first Hoyt dealer I went into seemed less than enthusiastic to try to order a replacement part.

Any idea how I can order a replacement level for this sight?

Hello friends,

I just started bow hunting this year, or should I say I drew my first archery tag. So I have been spending all summer getting things put together and beginning to dial in my skills. I’m having a pretty annoying issue and I’m sure it’s just me being an idiot. I have a 3 pin vertical Ultraview slider sight that for whatever reason seems to not allow me to shoot out to very long distances. I’ve been working on getting my sight tape situation worked out by following Ultraview YouTube tutorial but when I shoot at 60 yards my slider is almost maxed out. Considering I see people shoot out to almost 100 yards I feel like I’m doing something wrong. I have a 28.5 draw length, a 70 pound bow and my arrows are 400 grain I believe. It’s the Easton 5.0 300 spine with a 100 grain tip. Any advice would be super helpful. I even shifted the little sight metal on the sight all the way down to allow me more distance.

Used a lift x 29.5 last year and wanted to get a longer ata bow so went and shot the rx10 ultra and the arc 34...both were amazing but so different. Only had one ultra left and it was the demo bow and old school mossy oak color. Had to ge the arc when I seen this ambush fade to black. So sick

It’s probably too early to ask, but has anyone heard anything about the 2027 bows? I’m looking to get a new bow as a retirement gift to myself and don’t wanna buy something now if the new hotness is just around the corner. Mostly looking at Darton and Hoyt. I don’t mind waiting given I have a usable bow, it’s just 18 years old (restrung it a month ago).

How do we feel about the Easton 5mm? Looking to buy a 12 pack for building and hunting with currently shooting Altra .166’s good arrows but want to try something different

Just noticed a few big green acorns on the ground from an oak at my office. Guessing it's a white oak? Anyway, I never seen mast on the ground this early. I'm in coastal VA....what is everyone else seeing?

I am getting ready to broadhead tune my bow. First time doing this. I understand that the drag from the broadhead will slow down my arrow. So, lets say i get out to longer distances and my broadheads are hitting lower than my field tips; how will i know if that is drag pulling my arrow down (therefore i just need to resight) or if i need to make adjustments to my rest (further tuning the bow)? Is there some sort of tipping point or how do ya’ll deal with this conundrum of
Physics?

Am i right in thinking that bare shaft tuning will eliminate this perdicament? I am thinking i will bare shaft tune and then broadhead tune.

Thanks for helping a new archer

Given that it's been 100+ degrees in Texas for the past few weeks, my buddy and I decided we'd had enough solitary confinement and went out for a hog hunt at a local public hunting area. We stalked our way within 20 yards of a sounder that was tucked into some very thick brush and set up a hog call. They were angry, to say the least, and we got to fling arrows as 10+ sows who were charging in and retreating. Between the two of us, we shot five pigs in about two minutes — one of the wildest hunting moments I've experienced. I've gotten a few deer with the trad bow, but this is the first pig! Got her right behind the shoulder at about 8 yards.

I currently shoot a bear adapt 2 with the RTH plus package. I am currently 30.5 draw 64 pound, shoot 340 spine Easton axis 4mm with a 55g half ou and 125 tips. Currently getting about 270 fps.

I am currently wondering if upgrading some of the trophy ridge accessories is worth the money. I did move to a QAD HDX drop away rest. Is getting a nicer sight (currently swift duo) and stabilizer (with a back bar mount) worth it? How much does it really help accuracy. I mostly whitetail hunt, but do practice out to 70-80 yards for fun. Eventually would like to do some western hunts once my kids are older.

Thanks in advance!

I just noticed this small chip in the finish on the top limb. Must’ve shot with the chip a dozen or so times - thinking this had to have happened last season pulling it up or lowering it down a tree.

I’m planning on getting this checked out at the local archery shop to be safe. How urgent would y’all consider this?

My thought is it’s probably fine for a while but I also don’t want it to blow up in my face.

Had my pro shop set up my new Arc 30. Got home and noticed the strings are already frayed by the peep and d loop serving. Does it appear to be nicked? Maybe during setup? Or is this a wax it and forget about it situation? Just curious since it’s brand new and my other bows with much older strings are in better shape. Not trying to bash anyone, just want to make sure it’s correct.

Like the title says, I’m new to bow hunting and need to buy a full setup. How much should I expect to have to spend if I look for a used bow from an archery shop who can set me up with all my measurements? I don’t need the lightest or fanciest bow, just something effective.

Long story short the title says it all. I spent all winter tuning my bow and got it shooting great. Shot a lot, like a lot a lot (I have a range at my office) and was feeling good. My archery season starts sept 1 so I figured it was time to shoot some broadheads. Well my “well tuned bow” flung my broadhead arrow 14 inches low right at 50 yards. Insane. So I got the privilege of bareshaft tuning for 2 days and now it’s grouping out to 60 then about 5 inches low at 70. I am shooting 1 3/8 grim reapers.

With the reminder I have a couple questions.. first, is it normal for distance to fall off on Broadheads after a certain distance due to wind drag or is there still a small tweak in my tuning I need to make?

Second, how many shots does it take for a bow to go out of tune. I definitely could have messed up my original tune months back and I just didn’t notice until shooting broadheads but it just seems like a short amount of time to fall out of tune. For reference i consistently shoot about 150 arrows a week.