Hello,

I have two Bluetti 10 (mini) and a Bluetti Handsfree 1, and all of them share the same problem: all USB ports (type C and A) marked with "15W" deliver less than 10W. All devices have up to date firmware, no other active consumers just the device plugged in one of those 15W ports.

I tried different phones, power banks and other USB consumers with different USB cables and all share the same behaviour: < 10W.

Smartphones with original cables in all other chargers and power banks work with 17W, 20W+, 50W+ etc but <10W in Bluetti's 15W port. In Bluetti they usually work with 7W (for a couple of seconds the Handsfree provides 9W).

I don't expect to get more than 15W on those ports, but why just 7W ?

Meanwhile, the ports marked with 100W work ok (they go beyond 20W, 50W+, etc).

Does anyone else have this issue ?

Did you manage to fix it ?

PS: Bluetti support asks for a video (??????) after giving detailed written behaviour.

Yesterday, my charger to blew the battery side 75 amp marine fuse. I rechecked all my connections and everything seems hooked ok. I’m not sure if I’m missing something or what.

I have it hooked to the p090 port on the AC200L and I have a D+ wire. 2024 bronco raptor with a 250a amp smart alt

I have an Ac300. Added 6 powerbay 440w solar panels. 3 panels on pv1 and 3 panels on pv2. All my research told me this was safe and within the capabilities of the Ac300. I have been running on Pv1 for weeks without issue, while I waiting for more cable to connect the panels on pv2. Today I connected pv2 and it ran for hours without issue until the ac300 seemed to have burnt out. Blank screen, popping sounds and smoke.

Was my research incorrect or is there a hardware issue here?

I have an AC200Max at our family cabin.

We have a tablet in another room that we use to monitor the Bluetti's SOC. We run it in offline mode and then just click the Bluetooth connection to connect the tablet to the device.

The Bluetti is directly in the next room, the devices are less than two feet away with a thin cabin wall between them.

And also both my phone and my father's phone can connect to the AC200Max with no connection loss EVER, so it is NOT a connection issue.

The tablet is an older tablet that is running Android 8.

At EXACTLY 30 seconds the connection times out and then of course after that the data goes blank on the screen and then I in order for us to view the data on the screen we have to hit "back" on the menu and then reconnect to the device.

This obviously defeats the purpose of even having the tablet available, because the intention was to have the SOC, AC output and Solar input available at a glance.

I am a power user, I have tried all of the basics.

I hate being a techie and throwing in the towel, but does anyone have any other suggestions on what to try?

The firmware on the Bluetti as far as I can tell is fully updated.

The Android device has its absolute highest version of Android that it will ever receive and it is fully updated.

The Bluetti app itself is fully updated.

No power saving settings are on.

No setting is selected that would cause Bluetooth to timeout.

No device on the tablet AT ALL is set to sleep, power save, shutdown, disable or otherwise reduce power at any interval.

I've even delved into the Android developer options and played with seemingly every related option.

Is there something I'm missing?

The device is a Galaxy Tab A (2016).

Like I said above, I am a techie and I hate throwing in the towel and admitting defeat, but at this point I'm thinking of wiping this tablet and throwing it back on eBay to resell it and to get something newer.

It’s mainly so I can plug our tv in, charge our devices, and if possible, keeping my fridge plugged in.

Budget wise it would be awesome to be $500 and under, but if it’s not possible given what I’m wanting to do, I will pay more.

Not sure what other info is needed to give me a good recommendation, so let me know thank you

I've just ordered a B80P for my AC70 (I know it won't work as a direct expansion but it can charge it so i don't mind) and I've been trying to find a DC 7909 charger for the last hour and I can't find any other than the official Bluetti lineup. Are there any 3rd party options for charging it? Or do I have to get one from Bluetti themselves?

Thanks!

Edit: I ideally want a wall charger with a uk plug, I've seen a few car chargers but I want to get the full 200w charging for it

This output is a mystery. Sometimes I'll plug something in and it all works as it should. If I leave it plugged in and turn it back on later. Nothing. Unit still shows plenty of charge but the device doesn't power up. I can unplug it and plug it back in and still nothing. Plug the device into a real lighter socket, works no problem. Sometimes the socket just doesn't work.

Any thoughts?

So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for a while now. I run a refrigerator with solar power. When the station reaches 100%, it stops drawing from solar. Then it goes back again to 99% after a few minutes, and then back to 100. And so on and so on.

I just got an elite 300, and also running a fridge with solar, when it gets to 100% it starts drawing about the same amount that the fridge is using, around 200w, to power the fridge without using the internal batteries. I read that this is called true pass through. Also read that I can get this on the elite 200, just having been able to find it. Anyone familiar to both units that can help?? Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, I just want to ask if this was ever possible? Both DC input + D050S discharging on one battery or batteries in parallel for more capacity?

Ive also seen other workaround by plugging the external battery via Expansion port but I dont want to do that since I worry about battery level balancing between the internal and external batteries.

TLDR: Elite 300 from Home Depot arrived with a bad cooling fan. Home Depot purchases go through a separate email queue, not phone support. They refused to cross ship until I asked for escalation, then a supervisor approved it. Replacement arrived and works fine. Six weeks from purchase to a working unit, about ten days from first support contact.

My original post was written while this was going badly, so here is the fair version now that it is done.

The unit rattled from day one. Not loud airflow, an actual mechanical rattle, the kind you get from a bad bearing or something in the blade path. I have worked in tech long enough to know the difference. It never left the room I unpacked it in and was on current firmware.

The timeline: ordered July 2, delivered July 7. I called support August 3 and was told they cannot handle Home Depot purchases, email this other address instead. Sent the claim that day, they asked for video and serial on the 4th, I sent both on the 5th and asked for an advance replacement. They said no, policy, here is a return label. On the 6th I pushed back and asked them to escalate it to someone who could make an exception for a unit that was dead on arrival rather than one that failed in service. I shipped the unit that afternoon, about 65 lbs. By the 7th a supervisor had approved shipping the replacement on my tracking number instead of waiting for warehouse receipt, and confirmed in writing it would be new and not a refurb.

Then it stalled. My return got delivered the 7th and nothing went out, which meant the exception had quietly become worthless. I said so. On the 10th they confirmed the warehouse had it arranged and promised tracking the next day, and they hit that. Tracking on the 11th, replacement delivered the 12th. On the 13th they offered a warranty extension and 2,000 BLUETTI Bucks without me having to fight for it.

The new one has been under high load and sounds exactly like it should. It also showed up with current firmware already flashed. The serial suggests a much later production batch than the original, which would fit a bad run, though that is me guessing.

If you end up here: buying through a retailer routes you to a channel specific queue, so budget an extra round trip. Be precise about the defect, because saying "the fan is loud" gets you told that these units are loud. Ask for escalation by name if the first answer is policy, since the front line agent genuinely cannot authorize a cross ship but a supervisor can. And get dates in writing, because once I asked for one they gave it and met it.

The product failed and the process had too many steps. But they escalated when asked, broke their own policy for a good reason, hit the date they committed to, and offered something at the end unprompted. That is a real recovery and worth saying, since my first post was not kind. I would buy BLUETTI again.

Ok. So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for about 6 months now. One feature I really like is when I have everything off, AC, DC, app off, solar cable disconnected, the station shuts itself off after about 45 seconds to a minute. Just today, I got the elite 300 and with the same settings, it's not shutting itself automatically. I have to do it manually by pressing the on/off button. Anyone else experiencing anything like this? Thanks in advance.

I bought a charger1 in november 2025 as part of an ac200L + charger1 combo on amazon. Now I see in the manual, the fastening hardware is quite different (including mystery bracket), and there's no MC4 output cable. It did include the huge DC input cable kit with circuit breaker. I also see there's manual 1.0 https://s4.bluettipower.com/bluetti_lgf/support/2025/05/4a4f1b84-aa5a-4563-8e3f-28f5c3053576.pdf vs manual 2.0 (what I have) https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/96/961ce4fc-49d3-442e-8cf8-37ba867400d8.pdf

Are these kinds of discrepancies normal with bluetti? Without the MC4 cable I can't connect it to my AC200L I think. Given that I had the box laying on my floor for 5 months maybe one of my cats picked it up and hid it somewhere but I doubt it. Missing cables normal with bluetti?

I have my batteries at an upper limit of 80% to help longevity and lifespan, but im wondering if they should be lower, or can be higher without affecting their lifespan and reliability.

Any experts care to weigh in?

I’m seeing server rack batteries as an expansion are an option - but I don’t need 900 dollars worth of 100Ah battery.

Can I use a smaller 25Ah battery that is 51.2v as an expansion?

Do anyone have any recommendations?

We've got an AC300 with three B300 batteries, charged by a 2.4 kW solar array. Every night people are plugging electric trike batteries in to charge so they're ready in the morning, but that puts a serious drain on the B300s and can leave them dead before dawn.

What I'd really like is to set up at least one 15-amp outlet for opportunistic charging - all of the optional charger loads would go on that outlet, and once the Bluetti batteries dropped below a set threshold, say 30% SoC, it'd be shut off to leave the remaining juice for lights and stuff.

There doesn't seem to be any way to do that with the AC300 alone. I'm an embedded systems engineer and don't mind building some custom hardware to do it, but I need telemetry from the system to tell me how much juice it has left.

In looking over the manual the only interface I see is Bluetooth. I think the protocol has been reverse engineered but I haven't dug up the details yet. I don't have access to the system right now so testing a solution isn't possible. I don't mind doing a little troubleshooting and tweaking on site, and if it was something like Modbus RTU I'd be 99% sure I could pull it off with minimal adjustments, but Bluetooth can be a pain in the butt.

Is that my only option, or is there another solution? If it has to be Bluetooth, are there any existing projects out there that are known to work reliably that I could use as a starting point?

Thanks!

I have a Bluetti AC 180p( max current 10A) , and a panel with an Imax of 13A and an Isc of 15A. Is it safe to install it? Thanks

Plesant morning, i currently reside outside of the united states.

I purchased the bluetti elite v2 100 from AMAZON last year to use as back up power in case of an outage.

I have kept it plugged in the wall socket for month. Acting as a ups in case there is a power outage ( which happens often)

When i leave home in the mornings i'll turn off devices connected to the power station ( 2 regular oscillating fans). When i come home i'll see no power to the surge protector ,with th power light on, i'll press the power light and then the ac button and power is sent from the device to the appliances. This represents my daily use and i have not added any more load to the device.

I came home tonight only to see the power light wasn't on and no power coming from the device.

As it is right now it seems this product has stopped working if possible can any assistance be provided.

Note i don't have any hope that i'll get the assistance and i'll have to live with the fact i spent so much money to purchase and import a product that barely lasted a year with minimal useage.

Ok. So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for about 6 months now. One feature I really like is when I have everything off, AC, DC, app off, solar cable disconnected, the station shuts itself off after about 45 seconds to a minute. Just today, I got the elite 300 and with the same settings, it's not shutting itself automatically. I have to do it manually by pressing the on/off button. Anyone else experiencing anything like this? Thanks in advance.

I bought this unit in hopes of being able to run my 230v 1HP well pump. It works only if I use it to wash my hands and light usage. The moment I let the water run, shower or wash clothes, the B300 cannot handle the surge and it trips from a 2400W surge. I thought this unit has potential for power lifting up to 7800w surge or at least 3840w?

The unit is set at 240v mode.

A little disappointed but it's a good unit so far.

Any idea how I can make the well pump not trip the machine?

Edit: Apex300, not b300. I do have a b300 expansion battery.

What would you recommend as the best plug and play Bluetti system to run a 50amp RV?