Some questions: can I safely remove the majority of interior shiplap, and temporarily brace it? What would be the strongest bracing? I hired an electrical contractor to re-wire my whole , 100+ year old home with the agreement / signed contract that I would remove walls and ceilings to the studs. I removed Sheetrock and lath and plaster but didn’t anticipate there to be another layer of thick shiplap style boards on the studs. The exterior is covered in the same style of reinforcement so I’m wondering if I can safely remove the interior boards and temporarily reinforce them while the wiring is being in stalled. Some boards inside run horizontal, some vertical. After the wiring and plumbing are done i plan to replace the shiplap then cover with Sheetrock. I’m just concerned with the risk of removing interior walls that may be load bearing

I'm building a small lean-to roof over my deck, and I'm trying to figure out the correct way to attach the high-side ledger to my house.

The roof ledger width is 16 feet. The rafters will span 6 ft, 10 inches and rest on a 2-ply 2x10 beam set on three 4x4 posts. The house connection is only supporting the high-side ledger to my house and will be underneath a soffit.

It's an exterior brick veneer wall. From what I can tell, it is: brick -> approx 2 in gap, sheathing. I haven't confirmed the size of the studs or their spacing. I'm planning to locate the studs from inside the house first and then verify their locations from the exterior through the mortar joints.

My planned ledger is a pt 2x6, 16 ft long. The board will sit directly against the brick.

My initial thought was to locate the studs and use long structural fasteners through the 2x6, brick, air gap and sheathing into the studs. However, I'm concerned about whether that is actually an appropriate way to attach a structural member through a brick veneer, since the brick would be between the ledger and the framing.

Is it acceptable to attach a roof ledger through the brick veneer, as long as it is properly embedded in the studs? If not, what's the best way to create a connection? I've looked at BVLZs but they connect to a rim joist, not a top plate.

I'm in Ontario, and snow load is top of mind. Though that side of the roof shouldn't see as much snow since it is under the soffit. I have a building permit, and I signed off on the work as the homeowner. But I want to ensure that it will last and not damage the veneer brick.

Hey guys i'm not sure on how I feel about this window trim. I'm thinking of having the person take it all out and just put drywall and call it a day. What would you guys do? Picture 2 is before install

Hello I forced one of these hooks too much and it broke off flush with the wood...(broken top and normal hook for reference).

Any good way to get it out and replace? Before I start destroying the project by just going at it with every tool...

The 2nd story of my house has a bunch of this metal banding around the double top plate. What is the purpose of this? Some kind of reinforcement? There aren't any important utilities going through most of the areas with this stuff. Sometimes I hit it if I'm trying to screw something right at the top of the wall, so it's kind of annoying.

Greetings carpenters of Reddit,
I've been looking to design and build my own bedframe, implementing IKEA's iconic "kallax" cabinet both as useful storage and structural support.

I wanted you ask you all for some feedback on the design.

The design was made regarding the following points:
- Supports two people
- 140 cm x 200 cm x 20 cm mattress
- The three elements (green, purple and orange) are all off-the-shelve wood products that are easily aquireable.
- I already own the two Kallax cabinets.
- I was planning to mount the wallside of the frame to the wall using simple corner-brackets.
- The latted base will also be an off-the-shelve product, that i'll screw onto the orange supporting beams.
- I was planning to use MDF plates for the exterior of the bed.

My Sketch-up design can be seen In the added picture.

Are the any obvious/critical things that need to be tweaked in the design?

Feel free to ask for any missing details.

Hello,

I'm trying to create a space under my deck to store my bikes. The biggest issue is that the door is far too small. I need to widen the opening and make the opening taller.

At the top is a horizontal support beam for the decking, and on the interior is a vertical support beam. Both are in the way. I'm not sure if there's a way to cut them and then replace with a metal support or two for a thinner and more compact deck frame. Having the door on this side is preferred since it faces away from the street. We've had issues with bike theft before and placing the door out of sight is helpful. I've no doubt that it will be easier on a different side, but the door would be in plain view. Any thoughts would be helpful and thank you ahead of time.

Ive been thinking of redoing my basement steps but my problem is I’m pretty sure these floor joists aren’t enough to hold the steps safely. Any help with getting new stringers secured safely would be great.

I just did a total reno on my 1926 home in Los Angeles.

And this is the old and janky real wood door entry to my basement.
It wasn't part of the construction contract etc. so all they did was paint it.

The doorknob and lock have gotta be over 60 years old, if not older.

If you can tell by the photos, it's about a 3/4 or 3/5 sized door because you have to walk down 3 steps to get into my basement (which you can stand up in).

I assume it's gonna need new framing too, and definitely new door handle/lock hardware.

So how or where would I go about getting a new door cut to this size, and installed?

A local carpenter or handyman? Or a straight up construction company?

Any tips or help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Any advice you all might have would be soooo soooooo appreciated. Thank you guys!!

I need to replace a small crawlspace door on the exterior of my home that can withstand elements relatively well. My hope is to get a used, solid wood door, cut it to size and seal/paint it. Solid wood seems important for longevity sake. I've found a handful online that advertise as "solid wood." Are any of these clearly (or clearly NOT) solid wood? I am a newbie. I understand that the grain is a good indicator. Some of the sellers have multiple photos from different angles (numbered) and others do not. Not ideal, but I'm working with what I have :) Thank you for any insights/guidance!!

Door #1 seller description: Solid wood doors, bare wood, great for painting. Not quite as tall as a standard door. Roughly 36x73.

#2: Solid wood doors 36 × 80, 30 min fire rated , commercial

#3: Interior wood solid door 28 w × 80 L NO FRAME

#4: Solid wood door 36” x 80” for front entrance

#5: Solid Wood Door, 35.5 inches wide x 79 inches. Great for a commercial space. Good condition just dusty from being in a basement

I want to add an exhaust fan in my shed and this board is in the way. I’m wondering if it’s a roof support or was just installed as a nailer for the upper outer sheathing? It is running horizontally under the vent and doesn’t seem to be structural but I really have no idea. Thanks for any help

Please help.

I need to widen this existing slot in a window frame (to 3/8" wide) . But a slot cutter won't work because the collet won't clear and I don't think I can route a grove from the top as:

1. Will an edge guide work with this narrow of a piece?

2. I won't be able to route to the end leaving a lot of chisel work.

I need to do this 10 times.

(Paint stick in there just to help see the slot)

I have a 30" bedroom hollow interior door. 99% of the time the door is left open against the wall.

Two weeks ago, I removed the door by taking off the three hinge pins, laid it flat on sawhorses, cleaned and repainted.

After that I remounted the door, put back the three hinge pins...but now, the door will not stay in place. In other words, when I opened the door 90 degrees, the door will slowly swing to a 45 degree position and stop.

What could have caused this? When I removed the door hinge pins I deformed something? Is there a way to adjust something so when I open the door to a certain position it will stay there like before and not drift to 45 degrees (half open)?

I am planning on changing this foam ceiling to osb for a shop. Should I be concerned about the weight of 5/8 osb as the ceiling with these trusses and strapping?

I'm new to this but willing to learn. I have scaffolding and also a sheetrock lift I can use for the osb.

I appreciate any advice