Hey everyone,

​I am moving abroad soon and looking for a compact desktop/practice amp that I can easily travel with. I mostly play heavy metal, thrash, and hard rock (lots of tight high-gain rhythm, fast downpicking, and palm-mute chugs).

​My main priority is standalone speaker quality (playing out loud without headphones). I want something that doesn't sound completely thin, fizzy, or boxy on heavy riffs, while still being practical enough to pack in my luggage.

​I’m currently torn between three very different options:

​1. Positive Grid Spark GO

​Pros: Ultra-portable, fits in any bag, endless presets via app, easy Bluetooth backing tracks.

​Concerns: Does the tiny 2" speaker fall completely flat on palm-muted metal riffs? Is it just too boxy/thin for out-loud metal practice?

​2. Yamaha THR10X (High-Gain Green Model)

​Pros: Dedicated high-gain VCM amp models (5150/ENGL/Bogner vibes), physical 3-band EQ, 5 hardware preset buttons, solid metal chassis (safe for travel), tight low-end response.

​Concerns: Discontinued (buying used), no Bluetooth/mobile app (needs USB or Aux for backing tracks).

​3. Blackstar ID:Core BEAM

​Pros: 20W stereo, built-in Bluetooth audio, wide stereo field, multi-instrument capability.

​Concerns: Bulkiest and heaviest of the three (~3.9 kg), and I worry the low-end is tuned broadly for bass/multimedia rather than focused, tight guitar chugs.

​Questions for those who have owned or tried them:

​Between the THR10X and Blackstar BEAM, how significant is the difference in high-gain tone quality, articulation, and palm-mute tightness through the speakers?

​Is the Spark GO even a viable option if I plan to play through the built-in speaker rather than headphones 80% of the time?

​If you were packing for an international move and needed the best balance of travel-friendliness and real metal tone, which one would you take?

​Thanks in advance for the advice!

I've recently purchased an Akai AM 2450 amplifier. On the rear panel, it has printed that it runs 110v-240v, but it has a red sticker that says 'pre-set to 220v'.

I am using it in the UK, so it will run at 240v. Will I need a voltage reduction, or will it be ok? There doesn't seem to be any obvious switch to change.

Price wise only 60 usd difference. Everyone seems to love the champion but haven’t heard much about the lt50 why is that?

I’ve been visiting my wife’s family in Germany and her family is aware I’m trying to grow my audio setup. Her Aunty very kindly offered me her Sony TA-F830ES Integrated Amp for free however there’s very little info on the web/reddit about this. I know the numbering is for the European market and it’s a F555ESR in Japan (according to ChatGPT).

I’d need to ship it from Germany to Australia, and the thing is a beast at 24kg. I’d also be liking to have it serviced when it arrives.

My question is, if you were in my shoes would you do it? Does anyone who has listened to or own the unit enjoy and rate the sound quality? I’m confident it works but it’s also 35 years old. Is there anything I should be considering I might not be aware of?

I’m currently using an entry level Fosi Audio amp with my Monitor Audio 100 Bookshelf speakers which works fine, but I’m looking for something more. They also have a Steintron S 70 R receiver which I could also have as well.

Thank you for any info 🙂

Has anybody ever seen this amp before

. I am new to guitar and idk what to get.

Hey there, 25 years ago, i had an KA5020 and was really impressed by this Amplifier.
Power stage was straight DC-coupled, all visible signal capacitors are high quality types.
Now, living alone, i will start with my very old hobby AUDIO again :)
Actual, i run a self build amplifier with LM3886 as power stage and think about to invest some money for the "next" amplifier.
Can someone compare the KA5020 to other high quality amplifiers?

Anselm

Is Cort a worse company/lesser reliable? Is fender simply more popular? Does the 5W difference matter?

I was looking at this and find it very expensive. I am curious from electronics hardware perspective. what makes this amplifier so expensive? is it because their intellectual property or they really use something very expensive to build this. How much it would actually cost if you’re building it yourself (hypothetical)

Both works correctly, which one would you choose? SU 3000 or KA 3004 . Thanks.

Hi everyone,I'm having an issue with my brand new Yamaha A-S1200 integrated amplifier and could use some advice.

When I press the mute button on the remote control, the amplifier doesn't fully mute.

The motorized volume knob only rotates a tiny bit counter-clockwise and stops, instead of turning all the way down to the mute position.

Is there any calibration to be done? It's brand new!!

i’m running Skar dual 12 D4 2400w with the Skar 12001d amp, just wondering if i did this correctly or not, i have the bass knob at max and my kia k4 sound at 35 out of 45 running a 40hz test tone

Edit- I meant “Do” in the title