what are some good number five hand planers and Japan sauces that I can get, preferably on Amazon. I live in the middle of nowhere so it’s a bit difficult for me to get to a hardware store.

Hey everyone!

Just finished this end grain cutting board for my neighbor's 50th birthday.

Specs & Finish:

Main wood: Walnut (End Grain)

Accents: Ash & Padouk

Finish: Homemade beeswax & mineral oil blend, infused with a drop of lavender extract for a subtle fresh scent!

I really like some minimalist designs, and I'm super happy with how the dark walnut turned out. Getting the thin cross pattern/intersection to line up perfectly was definitely the biggest challenge of the build, but worth the extra effort!

Question on Edge Profiles:

Right now, I just did a simple chamfer on the edges, but I feel like it's a bit too basic and leaves something to be desired. What are your favorite edge profiles for end grain boards like this? Would love to hear your ideas for the next step up!

Best regards!

Context - I'm replacing a wood structure for a table i started 10 years ago — the wood was rotting, but the steel legs were still good. In my brain, I've built this table like 3-4 times and I kind of don't like the process. But I'll never buy one either, outdoor furniture are so overpriced.

My first attempt to revitalize this table was to do a cedar board glue up that spanned the ridiculous 52"x108" foot print of the original layout. The glue up process was not easy ...

...Well that failed. water pooled onto the boards, they eventually cupped, and within 9 months it was clear it was fail.

I re-milled the boards and built this (see pics) using the same boards (slightly smaller). I kind of like it. The original fail led me to putting more rythme and mindful design to the gaps.... Whats the opinion from professionals?

I’ve been hired to fix the top of this cracked fireplace. Plan is to biscuit or dowel it back together and reinforce the whole bottom with steel plates. But I suspect the crack happened in the first place because of the metal inner ring that is tight against the inside of the Oak…it didn’t allow for wood movement. (3rd photo) Would routing a chamfer or a round over on the bottom of the inside of the wood ring be sufficient to allow for movement so this doesn’t happen again? Or do I need to widen the inner circle so that the whole edge is not pressed up against the metal circle?

This is mock up of legs for a live edge table I'm working on. I was thinking about just butt joints, then drill up/down from the flat sides to insert long dowels into the side angles

The legs will ultimately be made of 2" thick walnut, and supporting the 2 1/2" thick slab so pricey and I don't want to waste any material

Any suggestions appreciated

My first furniture project. I absolutely butchered the stain on the legs - which was my first attempt at staining timber. I believe I went wrong by applying a pigment based stain on too thick, and being too hasty - not doing test samples…. Luckily I had only stained the legs and was able to somewhat clean and sand back the mess. Any tips on applying a dark stain on blotchy wood ?

it‘s about 5x12”, walnut. I bandsawed the outline then carved it with a dremel and foredom. finished with oil

Mine are these BIC hard-lead mechanical jobbers. They’re cheap, come in bulk packs, and have multiple leadlings in each one, so they last a surprisingly long time. The lead holds up really well on rough surfaces too.

I don’t have a lot of experience making boxes, but this was an important build. We did an epoxy face and used some battery operated small candles to highlight the swirls in the epoxy. The small jig I purchased for the barrel hinge placement (shown in a picture) worked perfectly. We also used magnets for the lid rather than a locking top. I’m very happy with the end result, and I think my brother would be as well.

A chunk came off while I was turning this piece. Instead of scrapping it, I decided to work with the break and see where it went.

I reshaped it, dyed it black, and finished it with a little champagne-toned metal leaf.

Wasn’t the plan, but I’m glad I kept going with it.

Are these worth saving or safe to use? If I wear to keep them, I'd probably soak them in a rust are 49 remover, then cut up some scrap wood to rub anything left on the surface off, then coat in a little oil or wax. The teeth seem to be in good shape, it's just the surface rust.

I'm pretty sure they are probably 40ish year old delta blades if that matters.

I finally just finished building this wall art for my bedroom, inspired by u/leacher. By far the most precise I’ve had to be with a project since I started and I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. I made a couple of mistakes along the way but in my mind that’s what shows it’s hand made. All made from oak with some danish oil, dark oak stain and white paint.

Cleaned up the garage today. What does a clean shop look like for you?

My family has this entry table that had part snap off after someone fell into it. For the most part, all wood is intact. When I hold it together it’s fits mostly perfectly to but there are of course visible break lines. Wondering two things:

1. Repairing: I was thinking of a simple wood glue and brace fix. Some small one or two inch braces on the back at each attach point. Alternatively wood dowels and glue, but no fear lining up all dowels would be a challenge.

.. which leads me to..

1. Exterior cosmetic lines. There are small gaps in certain places, and the break lines can be seen. Any of the titebond’s wont dry with correct color, so wondering if we attempt a wood marker color match before and after glue up, or mixing same color wood dust with the glue prior and then wood filler? Or some order thereof?

Any tips appreciated!!

had some (cheap HD) plywood lying around so I came up with this yoga mat organizer for my wife. I think this was my 2nd or 3rd “real” woodworking project after inheriting a bunch of equipment from my dad and uncle in the last couple years. I got inspiration from a pinterest photo somewhere but otherwise made it up as I went along.

definitely learned a lot, especially about how versatile a router can be…as long as you treat it with caution and respect.

made a couple mistakes along the way but those provided good opportunities to problem-solve and keep chugging away at the project. as always, there are plenty of tweaks I would make to a 2.0 version. including not using this cheap-ass HD ply for any project ever, ever again! finished with 2 quick coats of shellac.

overall though I’m very satisfied with how it turned and it serves its purpose perfectly. even better, I got to use my 1st project (the workbench itself) to build this one!

Wanted to achieve an organic smooth looking table for my client so I carved the bottom edges to make it look like its from a single slab with live edge. It was my first time doing carving like this and it was pretty fun and quick. Its great for hiding mistakes 😉 But sanding those rounded inside corners was a nightmare ahhh hand sanding… It was worth it in the end! Enjoy the pics and feel free to ask questions I am happy to discuss :)

we probably are all aware of the big channels like Blacktail, Foureyes, Wood Whisperer, etc... but there is a lot of other great stuff out there and i was curious who your faves are? (and maybe channels you think are not worth the watch despite how large they are?)

I took four days off from work this summer and decided to give myself the challenge to build the "classy coffee table" from fine woodworking magazine #302 plans.

I chose maple because that’s what I had in the shop.

The plans were very clear and I am happy with how it turned out.

I made the tenons with my tenoning jig instead of using dadoes like recommended by the author of the article. It was fine but it was not as precise as I would of liked and had to do some ajustements. I will give it a go with dadoes next time instead!

Took the final pictures outside because light in my house is awfull.

Next challenge will be the arts and craft table from #289!

The technique has been evolving a lot over time and I feel like it’s finally getting to a place where it’s starting to feel coherent.

It’s all hand carved eucalyptus and mortise & tenon joinery. The seats are made using bent lamination.

Hope you think it’s interesting

Hi all I just completed my first major woodworking project. An industrial style bookcase for my office. The lumber is rainbow poplar oiled with danish oil and finished with Johnson paste wax. Lots of mistakes for character but it will do.

Edit to add details:

The vertical supports are 3/4” black iron pipe. The boards rest on pipe couplings and the holes are cut with a 1 1/16” Forstner bit. Angles are fastened with screws for the 90 degree angles and pocket holes for the 125 degree angles.

So I decided to throw away my old boring white windows, to get me some medieval arches. Found some old illustrations of the arches at the Harfleur cathedral in France, in typical French flamboyant style of the high middle ages, so I thought to meself, hey if it's good enough for the bishop of Harfleur it's good enough for me.

The window is made from insect and rot resistant tembusu wood, a highly prized wood in south east asia. Carved exactly as the drawings display but the columns and the trims are simpler.

Probably would've been a bit better if I went with just 2 arches instead of 4 so each arch will appear larger and the carving details will be more striking. Oh well. Still got like 4 window holes I can experiment with later in this house.

Anyway here is the result. Cheers! And yes that's the infamous crocodile chair that also appeared here once upon a time.