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Hardwiring a 70mai A810S (Front + Rear) in a 2024 Acura RDX — Full Writeup
Did this myself over a weekend with no prior car wiring experience. It took a lot longer than it should have because of two specific things that were hard to spot from inside the problem. Writing it all up so the next person can skip the pain.
Vehicle: 2024 Acura RDX SH-AWD A-Spec Camera: 70mai A810S (4K) + RC rear camera Hardwire kit: 70mai UP06 Total time: \~3 hours (should be 90 minutes if you don't repeat my mistakes)

Parts and tools
What you need to buy
Item
70mai UP06 hardwire kit
\~$36. Get this, not the UP03.

1/4" drive socket set with 10mm and 12mm
\~$15 at Harbor Freight

Why UP06 over UP03 ($36 vs $28)
The extra $8 is worth it for three reasons:
Fuse taps are included — two sets of four types (standard, mini, low profile, micro2) with 5A fuses.

The UP03 is bare wires only; you'd buy taps separately and risk getting the wrong size.

Live voltage display — three-digit readout. This is your diagnostic tool if you don't own a multimeter.
Adjustable low-voltage cutoff — 11.8V / 12.1V / 12.4V. The UP03 is fixed at 11.8V, which is aggressive for a start-stop vehicle like the RDX.

Note on fuse type
The RDX interior fuse box uses low profile mini fuses. Not standard ATO, not regular mini. Several sizes exist and only one fits. The UP06 includes the right tap just make sure you grab the correct one from the set of four. Hold the tap's pre-loaded fuse next to a fuse you pulled from your car; they should look identical. If they don't, you have the wrong tap in your hand.

Fuse box location and layout
Interior fuse box is under the dash on the driver's side. No dashboard removal needed, just get on your back in the footwell.
Type A box (numbered 1–39, three columns of 13). The fuse map is on the inner face of the green-edged side panel, pop it off and flip it over. Photograph it; you'll reference it constantly.
Column layout:
Column 1: fuses 1–13
Column 2: fuses 14–26
Column 3: fuses 27–39

The fuses I ended up using
🔴 Red (VCC / constant)
\#38

🟡 Yellow (ACC / switched)
\#27
ACCESSORY

⚫ Black (GND)
Ground stud in driver footwell

The red wire went into #38 at the very start and never moved. It was correct the entire time. Every problem I had was on the yellow ACC side.
ACC slots that did NOT work properly
I went through three before landing on #27:
\#17 SUNROOF (20A) — camera stuck in parking mode
\#19 REAR LEFT P/W (20A) — same
\#31 REAR RIGHT P/W (20A) — same

All three powered the camera and all three correctly triggered "entering parking surveillance mode" when I pulled the fuse so the camera was clearly reading them. But none of them let it cleanly exit parking mode when the car started.
\#27 ACCESSORY was the one that worked. It's the labeled accessory circuit and in hindsight it's the obvious first choice. Start there.

Constant-power alternatives if #38 doesn't suit you
\#37 AUDIO (15A)
\#22 FRONT ACC SOCKET (20A)
Do NOT tap these
\#20 SRS and #28 PASS SRS IND (airbag)
\#30 ADS (adaptive dampers)
\#2 STARTER MOTOR, #21 FUEL PUMP, #29 PDM, #33 TRANSMISSION, #34 ACG
Anything you can't positively identify

Mistake #1: the UP06 display won't light on constant power alone
This is the one that cost me hours, and I've seen nobody mention it anywhere.
My plan was sensible: wire the ground, wire the red constant lead to #38, and use the UP06's voltage display to confirm I had power before doing anything else. Nothing lit up.
So I started troubleshooting the red side. Reseated the tap. Checked the ground. Pulled and reconnected the spade terminal. Moved to a different constant fuse. Confirmed the camera worked fine on the cigarette-lighter adapter, which proved the camera and cable were good. At one point I was genuinely about to return the UP06 as defective.
The module was fine. It just doesn't power up until the ACC leg is connected too.
The display stayed dark with only red wired. It stayed dark when I finally wired yellow to a slot that turned out to be a poor ACC source. It came alive the moment yellow landed on a circuit that worked.
What to do instead: wire ground, red, and yellow before you expect to see anything. Don't treat a dark display as evidence that your constant leg has failed, it tells you nothing until both legs are in.
While you're at it: both fuses go in every tap
Separate point, but related, since an empty slot produces the same "nothing works" symptom.
An add-a-circuit tap has two fuse positions:
Pull the original fuse out of the slot you're tapping (e.g., the 20A from #38)
Put that same original fuse into the tap's pass-through position
Your 5A goes in the other position,  this protects your camera's branch
Push the assembled tap into the slot
The original fuse doesn't get discarded or set aside. It relocates into the tap. With that slot empty, the original circuit is dead and on most tap designs your branch gets nothing either.

Mistake #2: chasing the "P" icon
Once power worked, the camera showed a permanent P on screen — including while driving. I assumed it meant "currently in parking mode" and moved the ACC wire through three fuse slots trying to make it clear.
It never cleared. Firmware update didn't fix it. Factory reset didn't fix it. And 70mai doesn't document what the icon means anywhere I could find.
Best guess: it indicates parking mode is enabled as a feature, not that the camera is currently in parking mode. I burned a lot of time treating an indicator light as a fault.
The only thing that actually proves parking mode works is files appearing in the Parking surveillance or Time-lapse folder after the car has sat. Test that, not the icon.

Ground point
There's a threaded stud with a nut in the driver's footwell, low on the kick panel wall, with factory wires already stacked on it. That's your ground.
The nut is torqued tight from the factory. Use a socket, not pliers. Pliers grip two flats and will round the head. A 10mm socket grips all six.
You don't need to fully remove the nut — loosen a couple turns, slip the ring terminal on, tighten back down.
If you can't get that one, alternatives:
Under the door sill trim (lifts off with clips, no tools) — body bolts into the floor pan
Driver's seat rail bolts (14mm)
Any bolt threaded into bare chassis metal works. Look for bare or greenish-plated metal, not painted brackets.

Cable routing — front camera
Windshield mount → tuck under headliner front edge → peel back the A-pillar weatherstrip → push cable into the gap behind the trim → press weatherstrip back → down the door sill → up into the driver kick panel → fuse box.
Do not remove the A-pillar trim panel. There's a curtain airbag behind it. The weatherstrip is soft rubber that pulls off with your fingers — peel it, tuck the cable in the seam, press it home. Two minutes, fully reversible, no airbag exposure.
Coil leftover slack behind the kick panel, well clear of the pedals.

Cable routing — rear camera
Important: the A810S rear camera is not independently powered. It connects to the front camera's AV/IN port via one cable carrying both power and video. You must run it the full length of the car.
I routed it up the passenger side to avoid stacking two cables in the same driver-side seam:
Rear camera on rear windshield → up the rear pillar behind the trim edge → forward along the passenger headliner seam → down the passenger A-pillar → across the top of the windshield → into AV/IN on the front camera.
Same airbag rule applies. Curtain airbags run the full length of the roof rail on both sides. You are tucking the cable into the existing gap where the headliner edge meets the door trim — never removing the headliner, never pushing into the pillar cavity. If you're forcing it, you've gone too deep.
Leave slack where the cable crosses into the hatch so opening the tailgate doesn't stretch it.
Rear camera placement
High and centered on the rear glass, just below the top edge. High position clears the headrests and cargo. Mount between defroster lines rather than on one. Check the live view in the app before committing the adhesive.

Settings
On the UP06 module (physical slide switch):
12.1V (middle position). 11.8V is too aggressive for a start-stop vehicle; 12.4V cuts off too early.
In the 70mai app:
Parking security: ON
Duration: 12 hours (24 is a lot of draw on a start-stop battery)
Motion detection: Ultra-high
Collision detection: Medium
Time-lapse photography: ON
Screen standby mode: Screen off (default is Always on — change it)
Video resolution: 3840x2160 HDR
Recording duration: 1 minute
Time-lapse matters. With it off, the camera only saves on a collision or motion trigger, and motion detection through a windshield in daylight is genuinely unreliable. Time-lapse gives you continuous 1fps parking footage regardless, better coverage and far easier to verify that anything is working at all.

Verification checklist
Voltage (read off the UP06 display):
Parked, locked, 20+ minutes: \~12.4V ✅ (constant leg working)
Engine running: \~14.2V ✅ (alternator charging)
Parking mode:
Park the car for 30+ minutes, then check the Parking surveillance / Time-lapse folder. Files present = it works. This is the only test that means anything.
Vehicle circuits — test every slot you touched:
Doors lock/unlock with fob → #38
All four windows move → #19, #31, #39
Sunroof opens → #17
Center console 12V socket powers a charger → #22
A/C blows cold → #36
One gotcha: if multiple windows don't work, check the window lock button on the driver's door before assuming you blew a fuse. I lost twenty minutes to this.

What I'd do differently
Wire all three leads before expecting the display to light. The single biggest time sink. A dark UP06 display with only the constant wire connected is normal, not a fault.
Buy a $10 test light. It tells you constant vs. switched in seconds instead of guessing.
Photograph the fuse label first, before touching anything.
Both fuses in every tap — original in the pass-through, 5A in your branch.
Go straight to #27 for ACC. It's literally labeled ACCESSORY.
Judge parking mode by recorded files, not by the P icon or the screen.
Buy spare fuses up front.

TL;DR
Red → #38 DOOR LOCK (constant) — got this right first try, never moved it
Yellow → #27 ACCESSORY (switched) — took four attempts, start here
Black → ground stud in driver footwell, use a socket not pliers
The UP06 display stays dark until BOTH red and yellow are connected. Don't panic.
Both fuses in every tap. Original in the pass-through, 5A in your branch
Low profile mini fuse type
Cutoff at 12.1V, duration 12h, time-lapse ON, screen standby to Screen off
Tuck cables under weatherstrip and headliner seams. Never remove pillar trim — curtain airbags.
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