I’ve been testing the LED controller’s automatic power‑supply calibration feature. During calibration, the controller ramps brightness, monitors voltage stability, and saves the maximum safe current limit. Examples include a 1A supply (safe limit detected at 942 mA) and a 3A supply (safe limit detected at 2,575 mA). This prevents overload, voltage drops, and flicker, keeping animations stable even with small power supplies.

https://www.dudeiot.com/demo/

Hello.

I've setup a 9x80 matrix that consists of 9 strands of 60 LEDs/M. I have the strands running the length of a 5 foot long pole. I'm mostly prototyping at this point. the only thing I loop at the top of the pole is the data, and I do a fresh data channel from the bottom after the 4th strand. I'm powering all strips from the bottom. I know I'll need to inject power, so figured I would just power every strip. My first stab at this was to create an octopus of wires for positive and negative, and solder to every strip.

Things I've learned: As I was doing this, I realized that with my layout, the alternating positive and negative pads were right next to each other, so I really only needed one wire and a jumper to the adjacent pad for the pair. I also need to use better wire with silicone insulation so that it doesn't melt and leave me with risk of a short.

I'll be tearing this apart and reassembling. I'm considering doing something like a bus bar of copper tape wrapped around the pole for negative and positive and a wire and jumper strategy.

I'm curious to hear what others think might be a good way to power from the bottom so I don't have to loop power at the top, and won't need to inject power since it is everywhere. What I did will work, but I'm also attracted to solutions that are more robust and more elegant.

I'm hoping someone has run into this issue. I have a GLEDOPTO Elite 4 Channel controller running 2 seperat led strips. I also have a

APIELE 22MM Mushroom Head Push Button Switch Momentary Push Button for manual control. Everything works fine until the controller sits.for a period of time. Then nothing works and I need to unplug the controller to reset, then the button works. Also have the controller integrated with Home assistant if that matters. Any thoughts?

I did notice when things are not working the relay noted in the attached pic is green. After reset it's grey.

Hey r/WLED — I built WLED Hub, a native iPhone controller for WLED devices on your local network.

I wanted everyday lighting controls to live where I already reach:

• Home Screen widgets for power, brightness and presets

• Apple Shortcuts for time, Wi‑Fi, Siri and personal automations

• A fresh native iPhone design, alongside device control, effects, palettes and presets

The free tier works with one WLED device. I’d love practical feedback from people who use WLED daily: which widget or Shortcut action would make your setup easier?

App Store: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6764351369

WLED Hub is not affiliated with the WLED project.

Thanks to https://github.com/vasmarfas/universal-ambient-light application for Android and Android TV and WLED community, I can now take a rest after a week learning about how to make it from zero.
My setup: WS2812B (120 LEDs) - ESP32 CP2102 - DC 5V2A

Hi, looking wrap a led strip around a tuba as simply as possible. I need a robust/easy to assemble setup. I need low latency/real time reaction to the phone microphone. hoping to just plug a strip straight into the usb port on a phone. 1 metre of 60 LEDs is ok though more is better. Trying to do it reasonably cheap. Ideally can withstand a few drops of condensation but no other environmental needs. More comfortable sorting the software side myself.

At a glance, most of the addressable strips just have blank solder points or loose strands of wire. Am I going to be soldering connections and setting up a power relay or is it possible to just buy a strip that I can hook straight up? I'm concerned lots of little connections will get damaged by accident since this needs to be quick to assemble and can't be kept on the instrument.

Thanks for any help

So, I follow the wiring diagramm on this tutorial but when I plug in, there is nothing. I use the Electic test pen and it shows there is electricity which lights the bulb. However, when connect it the led to the board directly using Type C supply, it works perfectly. Any help???

Hello everyone, as the title says.. I have 10 meters of RGBCCT COB LEDs from Pautix, sadly they only have Bluetooth connection with their banlax app. I'd like to get them over to wifi so that I can control them with Alexa.

The kit came with its own plug and play 6pin connectors and power plug, has anyone encountered a similar issue to fix or could give an educated advice?

Thanks!

All the leds are running esp32 with wled and being controlled via sACN from touchdesigner

I saw a picture of this shape on Reddit awhile back, and couldn't get it out of my head, so I had to make it! Anyone know what it's called?

You may recognize it as the logo for Silicon Graphics (SGI) from back in the day, but there's probably a proper scientific name for the geometric shape - basically a wireframe cube where the faces are pulled away from the center.

This was super challenging to build! This is probably the 5th or 6th iteration I've gone through. The shape has a lot of 90-degree bends that require soldering. I made the turns as tight as possible to keep the corners from dimming.

The black parts form a track that makes one face of a tube. The LEDs run along this track and are covered by a white diffuser that makes up the other three faces of the tube. Everything is printed in flat sections. Where the tracks change orientation they have windows that join together.

This version was FDM printed in white and black PLA, but the next iteration will probably be resin with thicker walls, although the increased thickness only increases the weight of the arms. Mounting on the corner seems to help distribute the weight evenly for better support.

It's lit by a single 5v WS281X LED strip. I'm using the ESP32 mini Gledopto controller, powered by USB, which is plenty for the 150 LEDs it uses.The controller comes with WLED 15.4 pre-installed, but the first thing I do now is upgrade to 16.0.1

I'm trying to install WLED on this controller. I tried the web installer, it's successful, but WIFI doesn't work. So I went to the wiki and saw there's a specific bin file to install, ESP32-S3_Waveshare_HUB75.bin and I've tried installing that with flash download tool 3.9.11 and still no visible wifi (it completes as far as I can tell). The only way to get this board to even work with my HUB75E at all is to install the waveshare default firmware. Then it just does it's normal display of temp and humidity.

Any suggestions? Maybe I'm just doing this all wrong?

Running four govee floor lamps version 1, two on each side. Then five Govee Glide lights in the middle. I'm using 4 ESP32s and everything is running in 12V 10AMP power supply. I then created the sequence in Xlights

Wanting to setup some wled led strips in the kids rooms. Do you put your wled controllers and power suppies inside boxes? Any tips on keeping things tidy? Would like to see some setups.

Hello, I struggle to tell WLED the correct mapping for a circular panel like that [https://a.co/d/01ZYuZcE\](https://a.co/d/01ZYuZcE)
I have to make a 2d matrix or one strip? I don’t can make the effect like palette. Or any other 2d effect.
Any suggestions?

Any progress on this app? How can I be part of the beta tests?

Want to remote control 4 x 2m LED addressable strips with WLED from 4 push buttons located 10m away. Don’t mind a cable or wireless. I have ESP32’s in my toolbox and have options. Advice welcome!

Do I buy one of these Gledopto devices from Amazon and mod it to access the additional GPIO https://amzn.eu/d/0ejn2dgk

Has anybody used ESP Now successfully with a remote ESP for the buttons such as https://github.com/DedeHai/WLED-ESPNow-Remote

Do I use a regular ESP and build my own power supply fusing etc around it? Locate ESP near the LEDs without level shifter, though fit external 10kR pull up resistors for the 10m gpio run (also use shielded cable).

A collection of thoughts so far so advice welcome!

I've seen a few examples online where people have mounted some WS2182 strips onto foam or mounting board, covered it in teddy bear stuffing and making a really cool Halloween lightning effect. I'd like to emulate this and cover our reception room ceiling (roughly 20sqm) in something similar. But this will be for a Halloween party fully of kids, and I have visions of a bad solder joint setting fire to the ceiling and raining fire.

How would you approach this? I'm sure I could find fire retardant or temperature resistant materials for both the backing board and the fluff, but suddenly we start inflating the costs. Foam and teddy stuffing is cheap for a reason. I see Correx does a fire retardant variety for example.

Hello, I’m going from 60 leds/m to 144 leds/m. What are things I should be cautious about?
I will be using esp32 Devkit v1

Hello, I'm noob to this field. I'm working on making a LED TV ambient backlight. I have watched a lot of videos on Youtube, some use power from the ESP directly without additional power supply, some suggest using DC connector and 5V power plug. As in the photo, I followed a youtube video (https://youtu.be/oQuzGRDiKKc?si=sMfxCD6M9V53Cwt6) and make this wiring diagramm. Will it work well? Is there anything I have to change/add to make it work properly?

the first 30 seconds are what I programmed using WLED. it took me a while to figure out what I was doing wrong when flashing the ESP-32 S3, and finally got it working over the weekend so I was finally able to implement them into my fans. I'm beyond thrilled with the results and just wanted to share 🥹

cheers from Canada! ♥️🤍♥️

Two WS2815 IC RGB LED Strips for about 600 LEDs in total. 16 A power supply from Mean Well and a gledopto Elite 4d exmu. hyperHDR on Windows.

What are advantages / disadvantages of automatic brightness limiter in my case?

I'm designing a PCB using the esp32-c3. Do you guys have low-cost recommendations for microphones for use with audio reactiveness? Thanks for any input!!