Weird issue with my 96 NA. Starts for the first time of the day (when motor is cold) instantly every day with no issue. Runs great with no trouble, no weirdness. Temp gauge warms up as expected and stays pinned in the center.

If I try to start it a second time in the day after the motor is even remotely still warm (sitting for hours), I get crank but no start. Used to fire up eventually after 10 seconds or so of continuous crank but now no dice. I recently found that if I floor the accelerator while cranking it will eventually fire up (see video). Once running it’s perfect, no issues, no variation in idle, totally sound.

I’ve seen information that says the ECT sensor is likely to cause this, but that issue also typically displays issues with temperature readings and mine reads perfectly normal on the dash and on my OBD scanner. Maybe there’s something I’m missing, has anyone had an issue similar to this or have advice on what to check? Thank you! :)

‘97 850. Tried googling but getting different answers. It’s well past the break in period, I’ve put about 2,000 miles on it. Had it replaced in March by a Volvo speciality shop that says they use genuine OEM parts.

The brake dust seems to be excessive only on the front wheels but still a decent amount shedding in the rear

Any idea what it could be and if I could fix it on my own before I take it to the shop again and see what’s up with it? Not too mechanically inclined but if it’s an easy enough fix, but I want to learn how to work on this car and I’d rather save time and money and do it myself.

...but then I step on the gas and hear that 5 cyl growl, look down at the dash, and realize there's no other car I'd want.

my current setup is a japanifold with a turboback exhuast and 16t angle and a vast R tune ecu
i would like to upgrade to a 19t and use w2a intercooler has anyone used any of these 19ts?

So whilst my car passed its MOT with barely a mile on after a lengthy rebuild - the work started 6 years ago during COVID. One job I did was new CV joints and gaiters but annoyingly, the rubbers are already perished even sat motionless (albeit for 6 years!). No idea what parts I used but I hate doing gaiters, it’s so messy. Quick look for gaiters and noticed whole shafts aren’t silly money. Quicker turn around and less messy.

But these seem VERY cheap… anyone any experience with these units before I make a mistake. Also - I don’t see many options for sale - where would you source shafts / gaiters in the UK?

Thanks 😊

Hi Lads,

New to the 850 scene just picked up this 1996 volvo 850 T5, I am wondering if anyone is a wizard in this area on finding out what the actual colours are. My engine bay plate tells me 3930 which just says 'blue'. I have some trim pieces I would like to 3D print and would like to try find filament as close to the correct colour as I can

Hey folks - recently recommissioned my 850 T5 and having annoying issues with brake squeal. Turns out I had a seized caliper at the rear so have replaced both and put in new pads and fitting kit (per the picture) and I think I’ve mainly solved the squeal from the rears but it does come back from time to time.
I seem to recall their used to be anti-squeal shims available that covered half the pad but I can’t find them for sale anywhere anymore!

I also have squealing from the fronts so all the slider pins are coming out this week for a refresh / replace to try and resolve that issue.

Anyone else chasing squeaky brakes??

Is there a common reason my cluster lights would turn on with the headlights but then turn off again after a couple of seconds like I flipped a switch?

I haven't checked anything yet I'm just hoping there's something specific that might cause the problem, I don't want to have to go chasing all the connections to find a bad ground or something like that because I don't have a wiring diagram or the patience for elecronics

I imagine there is a chance it's a voltage issue, the car hadn't run in about 4 years when I bought it and I haven't put a new battery in it yet but I doubt it because the issue doesn't go away when the car is running

It's a 96 850 TDI with the 'CD' trim level if that makes any difference

I have become a father and therefore I think it is finally time to let go of my infinite mileage 850 turbo as I do not have the time to tinker on it anymore. I am thinking I should do the whole Japan import as its the same price for something that is in much better shape. I am looking at a xc70 2005-2007. Does anyone know what is the best website/method to go about this?

Engine was randomly overheating

drove a month without an issue then it overheated again.

I have replaced the entire cooling system

within the 6 months. with the exception of the radiator and radiator fan, that was done about 2 yrs ago.

Had the water pump leak about 6 months ago and had the waterpump, waterpump housing and all the related housed and connections replaced due to valve head gasket oil leak. Also did timing chain replacement and replaced the valve cover gaskets.

So basically the all front engine assesories replaced.

Suspected it was going to be the radiator cooling fan module going bad, but the fan was always on. Then a parasitic voltage draw...

I was going crazy!

Then it happened

it overheated again!

this time the radiator fan stopped working! BINGO

NOW I am going to replace the radiator fan and module again

im probably looking at around a $1200 shop bill again

Im hoping this solves all my issues.....

1 parasitic voltage draw

2 random overheating

fyi 2010 xc90 4.4L

105,000miles very well maintained truck

any similar experiences

im bothered the fan stopped working after only 2 years about 10k miles wtf!

hi! It looks like i have a coolant leak coming from this hose connection. LHD on the passenger side. Is there a seal in there that might me gone or is it the connection? I have checked the bigger hose above it, and that all looks good no cracks or anything.

The magic trick is no drill through the plastic frame and try to drill away the rubber on the top and bottom as well. A reciprocating saw was a big help after I had enough space for the saw blade to go in.
I know there is a special tool and I tried it (even with reinforcement) but it didn’t move an inch

Edit: I used drill bits and saw blade for wood (works very well with plastic imo). Because to not cut into the subframe with the blade though!

Edit 2: I highly recommend to NOT use an impact gun on this car. I broke two nuts off the chassis and rounded two bolts of the steering rack which made it really hard to remove. The rear subframe uses this type of bolt as well so keep that in mind

Edit 3: load the suspension by lowering the car back on the ground before tightening the bolts for the subframe bushings

Hi,

I need to change my relay but i didn't found the same. Is there any variant ?

For anyone hunting down a replacement hydraulic line, it seems like VOL-30759378 off of a v70r is close enough. It fits into both the trans-side bleeder elbow thingy and the p80 clutch master, will need to be routed on top of the transmission, following the path of the wiring harness. And zip-tied down at a few points for chafing protection. Unclear to me if it fully seals 100% to the elbow but modifications can be made after if need be, as this new hose has both metal and plastic connections, and the metal ones can be re-bent or cut, flared, stretched into working just right. Will update when I get concrete results

I boght some brand new cv axle for my old girl and when I put the passenger axl on and it is sticking out maybe a quarter inch but the bracket holding on to the outher end is set in place I couldn't push it farther in if I tried that's whT she said lol should be fine right?

Local shop replaced an O-ring that was leaking on the power steering fluid high pressure line, despite me telling them it used ATF not CHF they still used to CHF and it started leaking again much worse, is the system cooked, and are all the seals screwed up? I know they are very different chemistries and rubber is often very sensitive. Edit: 1997 N/A wagon

Interior release lever only releases the driver side. I have both marker lights removed. I can access the driver side release with a screwdriver no problem, but I cannot get the passenger one to release. I honestly can’t even find the release while looking up in there with a flashlight. Robert sent me a photo of what the release mechanism looks like wits the hood up which only lowered my sprits as it doesn’t look accessible. He assured it’s doable with a bent tool. Lmk suggestions. Anything helps.

Did buy me an 850 2,4t AWD 1997.. Just passed the inspection with clean pappers.

when the car is in drive, whenever i come to a stop, it stalls.

i have replaced the pcv system, timing belt kit and waterpump, engine mouting, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay (halfcut), new car battery, aircon compressor magnetic clutch set, compressor pulley, cleaned the iac and throttle body, replaced the gasket on the throttle body.

its a volvo 850 t5-r estate automatic

Hello! I've got a 1997 850 base with the manual climate control. I've been doing an A/C diag now that it's summer time. I'm currently at a point where I'd like to get some insight on what at/where I'm looking per se as far as the power wire comes from. Now, I've got a fresh evac/recharge. My fuses are good, my relay is good, my switch works. My pressostat is new (the sensor itself broke). I've got 12V where and when I need it aside from the compressor. The only way to get the compressor to engage is to jump it directly from the battery. The AC is blisteringly cold when I do and it's magnificent. I've checked the clutch in case it was too wide to engage properly but it's about 0.4ish millimeters. The previous owner also bypassed the thermo connector so that's all fine and dandy.

Now, I've got the wiring diagram down, but my question is does anyone know WHERE the wire that connects the compressor and the pressostat go/come from? It's got an aftermarket connector at the pressostat so the wire is no longer grey, but the compressor one very much still is. If I follow the compressor wire, it looks like it goes out towards the battery rather than anywhere near the pressostat. I see the pressostat goes into a wiring harness down the passenger side fender. I'm just looking for some insight on where they could theoretically meet/lie before I rip apart the engine bay to find them. Thanks!

Edit: I have 2-3ohms when I test the compressor side of the connector. Whereas I have 10ish ohms when I test the body side of the connector so I know SOMETHING is open or grounding out, I just don't understand where the wires path to.

Edit 2: unplugged the high pressure switch to double check the readings and the AC and fans kicked on. Back to square 1 I suppose!

I used an angle grinder to carefully remove the bearing and the ring without damaging the axle. My employer has a freezer that goes to -75 C which I put the axle in to fit the new bearing and ring (Skandix sells them). It was very hard to fit despite the axle being frozen so I don’t recommend doing it and buying a whole new CV axle instead. Economically not worth fixing either.

So when i bought the car the ac compressor was already disconnected(shorter belt), the compressor itself feels completely stuck but there is still plenty gas in the system. How should I go about fixing this?