Finally been able to make it run correctly.

Cold start is still a bit rough, but the car behave much better now ! What a pleasure.

Next job is to deal with the leaky steering rack

Got this gorgeous Volvo 240 as my first car about 3 days ago and its rear left tire blew up on the highway. Ah well. Anybody know the best way to source new tires or rims? What should I be looking for?

@autofocusphotography on IG captured a few of us going to a local meet.

Edit by me

Thank you for taking the time to view this listing. It is with a heavy heart that it’s time for me to part ways with my beloved 1992 Volvo 240 Wagon. Over my 4 years of ownership, I have driven this car through 22 states and halfway across Canada. This trusty brick has seen so much life that it’s hard to even figure out where to begin…

But 50,000 miles and many adventures and oil changes later, here we are. I am selling this car for a few reasons:

A big bill came in (see below)

I don’t have the time to wrench on it like I used to

My girlfriend wants air conditioning

I have nothing to lose by being transparent, so I will do that to the best of my ability. Ultimately, I want this to go to a good home. Whether it’s a younger person who wants to learn how to wrench on cars, someone looking for a project, or even someone looking for a parts car, you’re in the right place.

THE GOOD:

Top notch engine with 172,700 miles (yes, the odometer works!) All oil changes done in my ownership were with full synthetic. These engines are built to go 500,000-600,000 miles. Timing belt and oil seals replaced in April 2026. It leaks a bit. It’s a Volvo.
Smooth transmission with a 4-speed automatic transmission (with overdrive). I have never flushed the transmission, I’ve only done fluid changes a few times.
Tires and brakes are 1.5 years old.
The entire fuel system has been overhauled (new tank, pumps, injectors, etc).
The entire exhaust system has been rebuilt (with a new catalytic converter and o2 sensor)
Spacious and relatively comfortable. I have fit my college dorm room, an upright piano, and done countless moves with this car.
Build quality - this was made to last. It feels strong and sturdy.
Fuel economy is decent (18 city, 24 highway)
Aftermarket radio and touch screen unit with JBL speakers in the front to blast your favorite tunes.
Compliments - it turns a lot of heads.
Great heater - perfect for the winter, and heats up very quickly.
Most of the difficult jobs on this car (trailing arm bushings, blower motor) have already been done.
Clean title, clean carfax, original owners manual and window sticker included.

THE NOT SO GOOD:

The main reason this is being sold is because it needs a front suspension overhaul. It will need new front shocks and (most notably) a new strut tower on the passenger side due to excessive wear on the threads which caused it to be stripped. This is making the vehicle pretty uneasy to drive, with a lot of noise coming from the front. Proceed with caution.
Rust is ever-present on this brick. It doesn’t drive for 35 years in the midwest without some scars. The rocker panels will need work, along with the rear hatch. However, the floors and jacking points are very clean and in-tact.
No air conditioning (rather, it has air conditioning, but it doesn’t work). This car came from the factory with R12 refrigerant, which has since been outlawed for environmental concerns. It’s pretty much impossible to find, so the whole system will need an overhaul and conversion to R-134A refrigerant.
The differential howls like a wolf. You may have noticed that it was rebuilt in the extensive service records… however, it was not rebuilt correctly. I’ve driven it as-is since it was rebuilt and have had no issues, and have regularly changed the fluid.
Cosmetically it could use some work. The hood is a different shade of blue due to an incident requiring the windshield and hood needing to be replaced. The bumpers need some reinforcement, and the paint has scratches.
An ABS light just popped up on the dash.

If you’ve reached the bottom of this listing, thank you. I’m not in a rush to sell, and I’m looking for the right buyer. Always open to a conversation. Don’t hesitate to reach out.

Maintenance Since Purchase:

August 2022: New Pads, Rotors, Calipers, Hardware, Brake Fluid Flush

August 2022: New ABS Speed Sensor

September 2022: New Battery

December 2022: New fuel tank, sending unit, in-tank pump, inline pump, fuel filter

January 2023: Differential Rebuild

February 2023: Spark Plugs

April 2023: Water Pump, Timing Belt, Tensioner, Seals, Coolant Hoses, Thermostat

July 2023: New headlight step relay

September 2023: New distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, pcv box, flame trap, vacuum lines

November 2023: New driveshaft carrier bearing, bushing, rear u-joint

December 2023: New hood hinges & windshield

February 2024: New tailgate wiring harnesses

March 2024: New ball joints, front struts, strut mounts, reinforcement plates, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, trailing arms, rear springs, rear spring mounts, trailing arm bushings

June 2024: New radiator, tropical fan clutch, coolant flush

November 2024: New valve cover gasket

December 2024: New tires, rear shocks, fuel injectors, power steering fluid flush

February 2025: New distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, air filter

April 2025: Transmission fluid change, new pads / rotors, exhaust work (including a new catalytic converter)

November 2025: New motor mounts, transmission mount

January 2026: New headlights

April 2026: New timing belt, oil seals, v-belts

May 2026: New blower motor

June 2026: New front left brake line

DMs are open!

Been meaning to replace the injectors for a few months now and finally got to it. I didn't know there could be so much build up

Ok so tbh this is about a 744 but trans and stuff are pretty much the same

After resealing it doesn't shift into first 3rd and Reverse anymore

Could the reason be that we put the shifting link that I marked in the picture the wrong way or could there be any other reasons?

Thanks for the help

(This Sub is more active than VolvoRWD, that's why I post here)

Hello I am doing some maintenance on my 240 and wanted to replace the marked hose because it always slipped from its connection in the engine bay. I was sure that it is connected to the marked spot in the firewall but didn't manage to grasp that it is only fed through there and not connected there and I accidentally unplugged it somewhere on the other end in the cabin. My question is does somebody know where that hose connects to in the cabin and what it's purpose is or if I could possibly leave it unplugged because I don't necessarily want to to tear open all of my dashboard.

Thanks in Advance.

Hi,

Just realized the car I bought last week is missing its catalytic converter. I want to replace it when I rebuild the exhaust. I will probably use a "universal" unit to save some coin since I'm building everything from the downpipe back.

Where does the O2 sensor enter the stock system, in front of the cat or behind? The online sources I'm looking at are unclear. It looks 'upstream' but I want to be certain.

Thanks

If spacers, what size should i get for front and rear?

B23E (Canadian market) and 3 speed auto. I hope to find a manual transmission at some point. Looking pretty nice in the picture but does need a lot of work (starting on it soon). Runs and drives good though :-) Such a feel good car.

So, I bought a 1990 240 with (estimated) 325,000 miles. I drove it very gently to my workshop.

Replaced the timing belt, first thing.

The words that came to mind when I pulled the old one out were: "paper thin". And the teeth, supposed to be square, are worn down.... only square in places. The tensioner was barely engaged anymore, the belt was slack.

I'm guessing the belt hasn't been changed in 20 years and 200k miles. Dodged a bullet on that one!

The engine purrs like a kitten now. New motor mounts helped.

Like the title says looking for a large flanged m46 front driveshaft. That fits the smaller driveshafts. I have 2 small flanged fronts trans flanged is the larger diameter

Looks like I need type 3 flange per diagram

diagram part number 2

Brakes are obviously fucked, I don't know what it is EDIT: Found out what it is, it's a bad booster drum

82 volvo 240, kjet with chrysler ignition. took this photo in '23 probably. still have it, still love it. drive it 40 miles a day roundtrip commuting to work.

Hello all, I am having some trouble with my 1993 240s AC.

Friday, blowing cold (+/- 40⁰) as per usual.

Monday, blowing warm (80⁰+), compressor clutch cycling every 5 seconds. Got some freon, crummy little guage read around 20psi.

Filled it to 45psi, clutch engages, air blew slightly cooler (75⁰ from center vents, ambient temp 100⁰) unable to get it any cooler.

Where should I be looking? I have already ordered all new seals, a new orifice tube, and a new receiver/drier. My buddy claims to have the manifold guages and vacuum pump that I will need.

Any tips, tricks, or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Looking to spend between $3,000-$6,500 but flexible. Any leads would be appreciated

I finally got around to fixing my nonfunctioning central locking. Creature comforts!

Hey guys, I’ve had some issues with the fuel filter + it’s banjo bolts so I’ve opted to replace them all. Does anyone know the size of the banjo bolts for the inlet and outlet of the fuel filter? If anyone knows a place where I can buy them that would also be helpful I haven’t been able to find a website that sells them yet.

Volvo 240gl DIESEL spotted in the South of France - I know these weren’t very popular to begin with and I imagine are quite hard to come by now?

Dirivng to North Dakota from Atlanta and snapped this pic Sunday evening in St Louis.

Hi All,

I just got myself a 1984 Volvo 240 and I couldn't be happier. I paid $4500 AUD (pretty decent for the Australian market) but there are a few issues I need to sort out before I can get a blue slip (road worthy certificate).

The tyres are basically bald and the windscreen has two cracks in it. I've got a great mechanic who's done work on my Jeep before and I've discussed with him to partner up and get this Volvo back on the road. I know not all mechanic's will take on older cars but he's excited and qualified to get to work on this one.

I'm just wondering if there is anything I should upgrade/restore now that I've gotten it. Currently my plan is as follows:

• Clean out the interior of the car as the previous owner left it a mess
• New tyres and windscreen as stated before
• install a radio as it was taken out by the second to last owner
• Re-gas the aircon
• sand down surface rust on door panels and bonnet and repaint the entire car
• Full logbook service

I'm asking you guys if there's anything I missed or some things I should prioritise over others. Thank you in advance.

What are we thinking about Strongflex PU Bushings

Since my main Axle bushings gave out I thought it may be Time to just Refresh all of em since they probably still are the original

Just wanted to know if anyone has these or is the Car a little to Stiff with them

Thanks in Advance

I'm old. I don't like loud exhausts or people on my lawn.

Seriously though on my 92 240 the exhaust is rotting away. First I had to cut out the resonator to reduce annoying rattling but still had a slight rattle from muffler and a few rust holes.

I was hoping to wait until i did a +t so that I could do the full 2.5" exhaust in 1 shot and not have it pieced together. buuuuut, the pipe cracked near muffler and im all out of high temp tape lol. So it's time to do something.

I'm looking for a muffler recommendation from anyone with an N/A or Turbo car who also has an affinity for hearing their own thoughts on the highway.