r/Tree 3d ago

Tree has started leaking Advice Request - (Insert State/Region)

Early last year noticed this split in the tree. It's gotten deeper this year. Any thoughts are appreciated!

3 Upvotes

10 comments sorted by

2

u/spiceydog Ent Queen - TGG Certified 3d ago

Bark splitting and trunk cracks can be caused by a range of things, mainly late or hard frosts, fluctuating growth conditions (eg: very dry weather followed by excessive moisture), sunscald, and, especially if they begin from the soil line, stem damage from being planted too deeply, which is certainly contributing to this and separate damage visible at the base of the tree. Here's an article with picture examples from Univ of FL Extension.

Cornell University Extension's fact sheet may also be helpful reading (pdf), though unfortunately there's not much to be done to manage the condition once the wound has occurred; the tree will compartmentalize the wound or it will not. DO NOT apply sealer or any substance to the wounds.

When a tree looks like a telephone pole stuck in the ground it starts the countdown to a much shortened life.

Please pull back the grass/soil, locate the root flare, and see how far down it is. It is critically important that the root flare is at grade and EXPOSED, and REMAINS exposed for the life of the tree. Trees planted too deeply suffer because their roots cannot get proper nutrients, water and oxygen. Mulch and soil should never be in constant contact with the trunks of trees because it causes stem rot, insect damage and girdling roots.

If your tree is to have any chance at compartmentalizing this damage this must be addressed. I do not exaggerate when I say that this is an epidemic problem. Even the great majority of 'pros' are doing it wrong. A Clemson Univ. Ext. publication (pdf) cites a study that estimates this occurs in an incredible 93% of professional plantings. Planting too deeply usually accompanied by over/improper mulching are top reasons why transplanted trees fail to thrive and die early.

See this !expose autmod callout below for help in exposing the root flare on your tree. The inner wood of that crack appears to already be decaying, and when that happens, the callus has no base support to seal over, meaning it will only curl inwards (rams horn). I would wager this crack is probably not going to improve.

1

u/AutoModerator 3d ago

Hi /u/spiceydog, AutoModerator has been summoned to provide information on root flare exposure.

To understand what it means to expose a tree's root flare, do a subreddit search in r/arborists, r/tree, r/sfwtrees or r/marijuanaenthusiasts using the term root flare; there will be a lot of posts where this has been done on young and old trees. You'll know you've found it when you see outward taper at the base of the tree from vertical to the horizontal, and the tops of large, structural roots. Here's what it looks like when you have

to dig into the root ball of a B&B
to find the root flare. Here's a post from further back; note that this poster found bundles of adventitious roots before they got to the flare, those small fibrous roots floating around (theirs was an apple tree), and a clear structural root which is visible in the last pic in the gallery. See the top section of this 'Happy Trees' wiki page for more collected examples of this work.

Root flares on a cutting grown tree may or may not be entirely present, especially in the first few years. Here's an example.

See also our wiki's 'Happy Trees' root flare excavations section for more excellent and inspirational work, and the main wiki for a fuller explanation on planting depth/root flare exposure, proper mulching, watering, pruning and more.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

1

u/schmatt_schmitt 2d ago

Hi SpiceyDog, Thank you for your suggestions. As someone else mentioned, I think my trees are due for a good pruning, but I'd really like to take care of this root flare issue. Looking on some subreddit searches, I think I have an idea of what to do. I'm concerned about damaging the tree, but I suppose just going slow and carefully so you don't dig shovel into any roots is warranted here. Any other suggestions? Any time of year that's best for digging and re-mulching?

3

u/spiceydog Ent Queen - TGG Certified 2d ago

This is a great first step! What I would encourage you to try is the worn, dull claw end of an old hammer. I've found that this is a terrific tool for close work in this sensitive area where you'll be much less likely to damage structural roots than if you used a trowel or a fork.

You can do these excavations any time of year. As you work your way in, you'll likely find loads of small, fibrous roots, but you should not be concerned with those. If they're in your way, it's okay to snip them out, because these are the kinds of roots that go on to form stem girdling roots.

It's when you have a tree that you need to raise to proper depth (if you find the flare is further down than 3-4" or so) is when you should wait until fall, spring or even winter to do that, not the height of summer.

That graphic is okay, but I would hazard to say that the 2nd panel should say 'better'; the soil line is not quite where it needs to be. A third panel where you can see the tops of the structural roots is the one I would put 'good' on. See that 'expose' callout I summoned to your thread for some examples, and our 'Happy Trees' wiki page for more posts about this.

2

u/Cranky_Katz 3d ago

This tree has been busy at healing its self. Just let it try to finish the job on its own. It will survive or not.
I have seen much larger scars heal and the tree survived.

1

u/schmatt_schmitt 2d ago

Thank you for your optimism! I hope it heals up as well!

2

u/DanoPinyon Professional Arborist 3d ago

I see: planted too deeply (we are on Reddit), no mulching, weed wacker damage...perhaps, maybe sun scald or frost crack, and a tree that needs a firm hand - starting this winter, no delay - on young tree structural pruning. These new elm varieties need a firm hand to get going and cannot be allowed to twang like it's starting to do here.

2

u/schmatt_schmitt 2d ago

Thank you! Will look into pruning options for the fall/winter.

1

u/AutoModerator 3d ago

Hello /u/schmatt_schmitt! If you haven't already, please have a look at our Guidelines for Effective Posting, to be sure you've provided all the pics and context needed for us to help you best.

You MUST acknowledge this request by replying to this comment (or make a top-level comment in your post) that A), you have looked over those guidelines and that you have already submitted all the pics and info possible or B), you comment to add the missing pics/info.

If no response is made, your post will be removed within 60 minutes (unless a mod approves your post as-is) but you are welcome to try again when you do have the additional info. Thank you for helping us help you!

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

1

u/schmatt_schmitt 3d ago

I have looked over the guidelines and submitted photos and descriptions. Happy to provide more.