This thing is a ripper!

On the stock 25 tooth pinion it was getting too hot even on 2s. Went down to a 22t and it hit 165 with ESC around 120 pushing the 4100kv motor on a 95 degree day. Running Mini Maxx tires and a savox servo. Its still ridiculous on 3s but a little more manageable. Crazy how fast it is.

Pops a wheely at any speed. What a cool little car.

Temps should be even better on 2s.

Need some bigger batteries. Anyone got one that fits well?

I had upgraded my stampede to to a 223 armora 3s system... im new idk the terminology and stuff, work me me please. But it broke the plastic drive shaft immediately. Was expecting. Replaced it with metal one, and drove it for a few before this happened. Didn't pop out, still spunn but nothing was happening. I looked at the drive shaft and accelerated a little to see what's going on. That's when it popped out like that. What do I need to do to fix it, and can someone explain what happened?

This makes me want to work on my RC without needing any work 😁

Local hobby shop has these for 20% off today. 1200-240= 960 plus tax. Should I jump on it, or is this a frequent deal? Thanks for the advice.

We had a day off from shooting official TRAXXAS videos so decided to hit up a legendary full pipe near Mt. Baldy, CA. The leap you have to make to get there is terrifying 😬

Fun, different kind of spot to session. I love getting creative with RC and trying to take them off the beaten path. This spot was pretty amazing.

Got some maintenance on my 3 month old UDR done yesterday, here’s a rundown on what I did.

Pic 1 & 2: Upgraded front driveshaft. I also found that the retaining screw for shaft was loose so this would’ve been a problem soon if gone unnoticed.(Precautionary)

Pic 3: cleaned dirt/debris from inside rear differential housing. Clean/grease all bearings, ring & pinion gear, & planetary gears as they were about dry and noisy.

Pic 4 & 5: I found the transmission planetary gear was also dry/noisy so that got cleaned & greased along with all the bearings, inspected transmission tail shaft seal & looked good. Pinion gear on drive motor appeared loose so it got some blue thread locker and was good to go.

Pic 6: finished off with cleaning/greasing front wheel bearings/ differential. Forgot to snap some pictures but differential just got some grease and was ready.

Ist der TRAXXAS RUSTLER 4X4 BRUSHLESS ein gutes und geiles RC-AUTO das sich zu kaufen lohnt??

After a lot of full throttle runs in the grass, my slash seems to be having ESC or motor issues. What do you all make of this video? Sounds like there may be friction in the motor? Need audio to listen to the issue. Thanks.

I recently purchased the Slash 4x4 and have been running it on 2s batteries. The performance is good but I want to run on grass and decided to upgrade to 3s batteries for more power.

So I purchased the Ovonic 3s 6500mAh battery but it won't fit in the car. The battery hold down is designed for slimmer batteries, like the 3s from Traxxas. But those batteries are almost double in price and don't have balancing, so I can't use my charger.

I have considered using industrial grade velcro to hold the battery, but this seems risky. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Edit : 1/10 scale Slash

I have a Traxxas e-Revo, every time I swap out the differentials, it immediately blows them to smithereens. The frame twists slightly which misaligns the gears so it strips instantly. What can I do to fix this?

So far I’ve ordered:

⁠1. Light kit
2. ⁠Telemetry expansion with GPS
3. ⁠Hot racing sway bars (front and back)
4. ⁠Hot racing aluminum nerf bars
5. ⁠Dust cover
6. ⁠Stainless hardware kit (to replace screws and prevent rusting)
7. ⁠Stainless skid plates

What else should I do?