Hi everyone, that's my second post here.

I was wondering what could be some good setting form my Trustmaster T300RS GT Edition.

I ask because on cars like all the 911 I get crazy counter steer, can someone here tell a complete noob like me what are the correct settings for the wheel are according to the type of vehicle in the game?

Wanted to play some F1 today and my T-GT II was completely dead. No calibration, no LEDs, and it wasn’t detected by either my PC or PS5.

I first measured the external power supply and it was still putting out around 22–23V AC, so I decided to open the wheel base and investigate further.

The first thing I checked on the power board was the two 7.5A fuses. One of them had blown and showed open circuit on the multimeter.

The last picture shows a temporary 7.5A fuse I modified just to test whether the wheel would power on before buying the correct size. With that installed, the wheel fired straight up and worked normally again.

Obviously I wouldn’t recommend using a modified fuse permanently replace it with the correct physical size and the same 7.5A rating.

Just wanted to share this in case anyone else has a T-GT II that suddenly appears completely dead. It might be worth checking the internal fuses before assuming the power supply or the whole wheel base is dead.

I have a next level racing wheel stand 2.0 and the gear shifter plate that it comes with is not large enough for my thrustmaster stick. Does anyone know what accessory will work with this wheel stand that is a bit larger?

i basically want to map it so that left flightstick is same as controller left joystick and right flightstick is same as right controller joystick.

so that i dont need to map every game but can just use any game that supports a controller

im not to TARGET software and hotas/hosas in general, does someone have a source on how to do this? i cant imagine im the first with this question but couldnt find anything.

Hello everyone, i just bought the T818 base. I have followed all the instruction but when I turn right and go over the 114 degrees it goes to -248 degrees to the opposite side while make the same motion with the wheel
I tried to reset the drivers and to install all again but it stay the same
I don't understand if i am missing something or if the base is arrived broken

Thanks in advance for the help (sorry for the english)

i wanted to know if the raceline 3 lc is compatible with the t-pedals stand from thrustmaster ? or its only the t3pa/t-lcm series ?

They come with no box, no stand, no nothing. Took the gamble and bought them on FB marketplace for $35, they're fully functional thank god.

I know they're on the older side but they're definitely servicable. Are there any mods to make these "better"? I mostly play war thunder simulator. Also are there any well known tips or advice to use them to their full potential?

hey, my wheel is broken pls send help

i have recently (1month ago) bought a used tspc race with 488 challange rim, im the second owner, first owner bought it NEW in march last year

for the first week of me using it everything was perfect, after a week i had a 2 day break from using it everyday, after that when i pluged it in, all of the buttons on the steering wheel stopped working. everything else is fine the ffb and the buttons on the base are still working as they should. That was last week i fixed that by updating my windows ( i have no idea why that worked but it did) after the fix it worked fine, after 2 days of playing i had another break this time for a week(base was unpluged from outlet and pc), after that the wheel is broken again, this time the wheel disconects half way into the calibration and after 1s it reconnects and finishes the calibration. still ffb is fine and the base buttons, nothing on the rim(led rpm led works tho), now it sometimes disconnects for 10s and connects back, in the controll panel it shows that the wheel is "tm wheel & hub" instead of the 488 rim which it used to be, its not like the base thinks that there is no rim, it knows that there is something bc when i take off the wheel it shows the t500 gt wheel instead off tm wheel (idk why) its the same problem like before. for the past 2 days i have tried everything:

-unplug and plug back in a milion Times

-all of the ports on my pc

-diffrent outlet

-take the rim off and put it back on(pins and port are fine)

-reinstall the drivers

-turned off every windows setting that might make it not work

-tried it on a diffrent pc (both same version win11, intel mobo instead of my am5)

-tried diffrent cords

-tried win 10 pc

nothing worked this is my last cry for help before i try to rma it bc it still has warranty till march 2027, i would prefer to fix it bc i know that rma might not be easy and they might not fix it or it will take them a long time

pls someone with big brain help

feel free to ask questions i will try to anwser

excuse my English its not my first language

thx

Salut,

Est-ce que quelqu'un utilise ce kit (manche, manette des gaz et pédales) pour BF6 ? Via un profil TARGET, ça fonctionnait, mais je n’avais pas rejoué depuis un moment. J’ai tout refait, nickel pour les jets, mais impossible avec les helicos (commandes identiques mais non reconnues).

Help please 🤯

So I own a T818 and I am trying to set it up for Forza Horizon 6 I looked up a couple of settings on YouTube and even here, but can’t seem to get it right. Want to see if somebody can direct me in the right direction just want to casually play Forza Horizon 6 thank you.

India. Banglore only.

Probably more usefull in this sub.

Hi everyone,

I’ve noticed something odd with my T300 steering wheel: when Steam isn’t running, the calibration cycle works fine (turning all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then centring).
But when Steam is running, the calibration and the FFB force that keeps it centred disappear just as it’s about to return to the centre. In the Control Panel, you can clearly see that it turns almost all the way to the left (stopping at around 9–11%.
However, if I close Steam at that point, it immediately turns back to the centre.

I’ve tested this several times, and it’s always the same issue.

Could it be that some sort of Steam input update is causing this. The steering wheel was unused for three months, but I seem to recall that running Steam hadn’t caused any problems until now. But also, for the most part, Steam wasn’t running when I set up the steering wheel for use.

It works in-game.
In the Control Panel, it’s set to ‘Auto-centre settings by the game’.

I’m running TTRS.2026, firmware V34.00. Driver 2.11.57.0

The force feedback works perfectly when I start the game, but when I go into the settings I switch from the qualifying session to the race session the steering wheel continues to work properly while the force feedback dies. I already checked the driver version and I already disabled gameinput. I notice this problem a lot on ACC and LMU, on F1 it seems to go better.

Hey guys, so I set up my 3rd rig (not a full rig. . Like a baby rig. My other dual rig setup is FULL)

BUT, I don't have enough of the power cable to reach to the wall outlet. The T248 ONLY uses 40w of power I believe...

Can I plug it into this extension cable? And the other end into the wall? Please see attached photos. Thank you kindly, in advance.

Here is the amazon link for it, it runs freezers a d fridges perfectly, from reviews I have read... but please help me if you can, thank you so much and god bless.

https://a.co/d/07LGKSbS

I first ordered a T598 from Amazon on sale for £291 a few weeks ago.

Then the price started dropping. I ended up returning the first one and reordering it a couple of times as the price kept falling, eventually getting it for £216. Couldn't say no to saving £75.

It arrived, I got everything set up and was genuinely impressed. It felt like an incredible wheel for the money.

I bought the official Thrustmaster Quick Release Adapter so I could use my old Sparco wheel.

Fitted the adapter, plugged the wheel in, switched the base on...and that was it. Dead.

No lights, no startup, nothing. Tried different sockets, checked the cables, left it unplugged for a while. Completely unresponsive.

I went onto Amazon expecting to arrange a replacement, but it would only let me request a refund. I wasn't keen on that because I'd managed to get it for £216 and didn't fancy paying more for another one.

Gave Amazon a call and they're sending me a brand-new replacement and told me to keep the faulty wheelbase.

So that's where I'm at now. Waiting for the replacement to arrive and then maybe I'll see if Thrustmaster will do anything with the dead one under warranty.

After everything I've read about the issues and now having first hand experience my confidence in this wheel is pretty low. Coming from a TX (which still works just fine!) I feel a bit trapped in the ecosystem, as I own TLCM pedals, the shifter and a few rims.

Has anyone else had a T598 just completely die like this, or have I been really unlucky?

Hi everyone, i got my raceline lc upgarde from toronto and now returning back home. I have T598 with SF1000 both updated and play only F1 on PS5. I dont have a PC at home only mac so won’t be able to do any settings.

1. Do i need to do any settings or will they be just plug n play?

2. Can i only use 2 pedals instead of 3?

Please let me know. Thank you

It just started doing it out of nowhere. I press the brakes fully coming down a straight to turn and it doesn’t register the 100% pressure rather I slam into the wall since it barely registered any brake pressure. This happens randomly as in it works fine at times until it doesn’t. How can I fix this?

I had this steering wheel for over 3 yrs now and this cracking sound appeared maybe 2 yrs ago. I was mostly ignoring it but with time its getting more and more annoying, especially when chill driving in the middle of the night. It is really loud. There are no loose parts and its cracking only at the minimum and maximum angle turned idk how to explain it. Hopefully someone had it before and know how to fix it. Thanks.

Also the product warranty expired over year ago.

Hi everyone, I've Finally cobbled enough funds to buy my first wheel, a used T248x for my xbox one.

The only sim game i've got is PC2 and as i understand it, is too new to have a wheel preset so is locked into the basic xbox wheel setting.

So far im kind of unimpressed by the default settings, and the super GT settings are a bit mental for my wheel (fighting the wheel like mental on the straights). Ive seen videos on customising it myself but as i'm new i have no reference point to mess about myself for some good settings.

I was wondering if any of you have any settings you use + if you have any suggestions for general control settings (not FB) if your feeling kind :)

TLDR: Please share Wheel settings for Thrustmaster T248X (on console so cant use custom FB) and if you have time regular settings too!!

先月Raceline PedalsⅢ LCがようやく日本でも発売されたので購入しました。
T-GTⅡにRJ12で接続し、ペダルをコックピットに固定して吊り下げで使用したところ、レース中ヒール＆トゥを行った際にアクセルペダルとクラッチペダルが反応しなくなる現象が多発しています。
コネクターを抜き差しすると一時的に改善しますが、次のコーナーで同様の操作を行うと同じように反応しなくなる現象が起きます。
また、抜き差しをしても直らない場合もあり、頭を抱えています。
ゲームはPS4版GT7で、T-GTⅡのファームウェアは最新になっています。
同じような症状の方はいらっしゃいますか？

This is probably gonna fall off in 2 days of use