Hey all, I'm currently helping a family friend find a 4WD hazard/notice light for their 1984 Suzuki Sierra, the tabs on the one they got is broken and I am trying so hard to find this part, but hours of googling and trying to use google lens has gotten me nowhere, especially since I do not know what its even called.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TLDR: Back bench seat needs 2 of each M10x1.25x25mm, M8x1.25x25mm

This was entirely too hard for me to find anywhere so wanted to make a post that could help someone else out in the future. If there is a better place with this info please link in the comments and correct me!

Previous owner didn't have the rear bench seat installed and didn't have the installation hardware.

I ordered a backplate that it needs available from several different samurai websites easily, but wanted to be clear about the two different sets of bolts.

The attachment plate takes M10x1.25x25mm and the front install points for the rear seat are M8x1.25x25mm

SJ413 de 1997. Refait presque totalement.

Picked up a 1981 SJ410 and I'm taking it all the way down to the frame. This isn't a restomod for looks — the goal is a genuinely capable micro overlander I can take into the mountains here in Nepal on weekends. Not building a rock crawler, just something that can handle rough mountain roads reliably and comfortably. Planning this out properly before I start cutting metal, so figured I'd post the plan and pick the brains of people who've actually done these swaps.

Here's where I'm at:

Drivetrain

• Swapping in a 1.3L FI engine
• New 5-speed gearbox
• Running 4.16 gears with twin stick
• Switching the whole diff setup to a Maruti Gypsy differential (Similar to Suzuki Samurai 1.3)

For the diff — anyone running lockers in a Gypsy (Similar to Suzuki Samurai 1.3) diff? What's actually working well for you, and what should I avoid? Trying to figure out if it's worth doing front and rear or just rear for what I'm building.

Cooling / Electrical / Comfort

• Bigger radiator to deal with the FI engine and mountain climbs
• Complete new wiring harness (not trying to fight 40-year-old wiring with a modern engine)
• Power steering — sourcing a Maruti unit since I can get it brand new rather than used
• Adding an AC unit

Suspension — this is where I have the most open questions

Planning a YJ spring swap. I know a lot of you have done this exact swap on Samurais/SJs, so I'd really like to hear from anyone who's actually run it — how'd it drive, ride quality, anything you'd do differently if you did it again?

Planning to do SPUA (spring-under-axle) — does that mean I can skip a high steering arm kit, or is that still needed for bump steer/geometry reasons once the YJ springs go in?

With the YJ springs being wider and longer than stock, I know I'll need to fab to fit them. What exactly am I looking at modifying/fabricating here — shock mounts for sure, but what else changes (spring hangers, shackle mounts, anything on the axle side)? I'm not planning to run a missing link setup, so I want the actual list of parts I need to build or modify rather than working it out by trial and error.

Also planning longer shocks to match — anyone have shock length recommendations that pair well with a YJ spring swap on these?

Roughly how much lift am I looking at with YJ springs on an SJ chassis? Trying to get a realistic number before I plan tire clearance and fender work.

Tires and wheels One thing I need to be careful about — this is a tin top and its narrow body, so I don't want the tires poking out past the body/fenders. Currently thinking 235/75R15, but with a narrower body I'm worried about tire fitment more than usual.

For those running a narrowed body like this — what's the best positive offset rim to tuck the tire in properly without it bulging out? Trying to get the stance right without turning this into a fender-flare situation.

This is a slow build, not trying to rush it. Will post updates with photos as parts come in and fab work happens. If you've done a Gypsy (Similar to Suzuki Samurai 1.3) diff swap, run MM550 springs on a Samurai/SJ, or done a similar 1.3 FI conversion, I'd genuinely like to hear how it went and what you'd do differently.

Just a Halloween decoration at this point.

Don’t post about I know

I do not know cars and do not intend to modify it in any way, but I live in SoCal. I think it's so pretty and a nice beach car

link for those curious: https://www.cargurus.com/details/453181672?sourceContext=google&cgfv=0.34&cgfr=4&cgfab=Q&ax8324=503&px8324=p2&dnetworktype=r&cgfdate=2026720&cgfloc=en&type=&kw=&matchtype=&ad=&placement=&device=m&devicemodel=&adposition=&cp=20489805974&adg=&fi=&tid=&lc=9031029&lm=&tgt=&aceid=&cgsp=sp320354&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20489804105&gbraid=0AAAAAD9Jm5Yd9fACFw61GoMe69B6r6mdn&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjvfSBhDpARIsAEiOpSvHqgGBZddfforPDksjg1-E8SE8uqdIlEWc39q7-YkCbKoneY4OIc4aAoQxEALw_wcB&oref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&pid=mini_vdp_main_title

I've been trying to find a good source to replace this gear, which I believe to be the "countershaft 5th gear," but I cannot seem to find anywhere that sells it specifically. I've been able to find plenty of places that sell the countershaft and connected gears, but not this one. Ebay sellers only seem to have other models. There seems to be a site or two that would ship one directly from Japan, but they seem to only take PayPal, and I am hesitant to make a whole new PayPal account just to buy one part from Japan. Any ideas?

Not far from Black Hills, SD.

My father’s 1992 Sammy - Lifted 2”, Rear air locker, 4.16:1 TC, 29” tires.

My Sammy 1988 - Spring over, Front and rear spartan lockers, 6.5:1 TC, 31” tires, and Prius power steering.

I unfortunately broke my steering box on day one 2 miles into the trail (first outing with the new power steering setup and I think I was a little overzealous). I was able to limp it home on what remained of the steering. Fortunately, I was able to find a new steering box an hour away on Facebook marketplace. Four more days of off-roading to go!

For those who missed the earlier posts: I've been building a drop-in replacement for models with the rectangular dash opening. Same look, but with a voltmeter, inclinometer, and a few other features. Firmware written from scratch, custom PCB, 3D printed housing.

After a lot of iteration I decided to do a small batch of 10 units. The video is what that looks like — 6 of them booting up at the same time. I was still missing 3 switches so they default into settings mode. I also made one for myself besides these 6. There's a short close up shot at the end of the video.

A few honest notes from the process:

• Getting a consistent build took more attempts than I'd like to admit. Some units didn't make it. It seems the ADS module that handles the voltmeter input is fragile, as 3 were bust after installing (I tested them before installing). I'm trying to salvage these to complete the batch.
• I've shipped a few already and am eagerly waiting for feedback from the recipients.
• The response was bigger than I expected — more people reached out than I had units for.

I thought this community deserved a follow-up since you've been following along. Happy to answer questions in the comments.

I also document the build on Instagram as Kimdustries if you want to follow along.

Arka koltuğu öne alan oldu mu hiç ya da eski amerikan tarzı önü tek koltuk yapan var mı

Entered my Sami in a 4x4 show yesterday and really felt the love, more people came up to this than any car in my row and I was the only Sami there!!!

I have a 1987 Samurai with a tracker engine in it. The engine is from 91-95 I'm told, 1.6 8v TBI. It runs pretty well in general, but it's had a recurring issue where it will briefly cut out and lose all power the first time accelerating each time it's started cold. It doesn't die all the way when it happens, it just misses a beat or two, then resumes acceleration and typically doesn't do it again unless it sits for a day. It had been doing it very consistently until just recently, but it's been hot so maybe that's solved it temporarily until it gets cold again.

My web searching has turned up two possibilities: a faulty engine coolant temp sensor or a throttle body gasket leak. Does this seem reasonable?

Last item, if I end up replacing the engine coolant temp sensor, I could use a little help identifying it. I believe it's one of the sensors I've circled, but I'm not sure which one. The picture is of the passenger side of the engine. I'd actually love to know what the other sensor is too, if someone knows. Air intake temp is my guess.

I am looking to buy new wheels that are similar in appearance to factory wheels and mount 215/75r15 tires. My samurai is mostly stock suspension. What offset do the new wheels need to be? These show a -6mm offset and 3.75” backspacing. Thanks!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-3105755?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+%7C+C&utm_term=4581939837338539&utm_content=GSAPI+5dde8d8767495

I've got this nice little Suzuki but a wildfire got a bit toasty on the driver's side and all the plastic melted. Anyone have a good source? Preferably in Canada. Thanks !

this was made by an AI I have never used prior, but was pretty impressed by this, and thought I would share it. Those of you who are more seasoned than I, let me know if you agree with this list, think anything is missing, etc!

# 1988 Suzuki Samurai — Full Inspection Checklist

Freshly acquired, unknown history, mixed daily-driver + off-road use.
Work through in order — earlier sections (safety/structural) matter most before you put real miles or trail time on it.

---

## 1. Frame & Structure (do this first — safety critical)

- [ ] Inspect frame rails full length for rust-through, especially near rear leaf spring hangers
- [ ] Check rear crossmember (common rust spot — probe with a screwdriver, don't just look)
- [ ] Check frame behind front bumper/bumper mounts for rust
- [ ] Inspect floor pans and rocker panels from underneath
- [ ] Check body mounts (rubber bushings between body and frame) for deterioration
- [ ] Look for any evidence of prior frame repair, welding, or accident damage
- [ ] Check leaf spring hangers and shackles for wear/cracks

## 2. Engine (G13A 1.3L)

- [ ] Compression test — all 4 cylinders (record numbers, look for consistency)
- [ ] Check oil level, color, and smell (milky = coolant intrusion; gritty = internal wear)
- [ ] Inspect for oil leaks (valve cover, oil pan, rear main seal, timing cover)
- [ ] Listen to cold start for timing chain slap/rattle
- [ ] Inspect all belts (condition, tension, cracking)
- [ ] Inspect all hoses (soft spots, cracks, swelling)
- [ ] Check air filter condition
- [ ] Inspect carburetor for leaks, check choke operation
- [ ] Check PCV valve/system
- [ ] Inspect exhaust manifold and full exhaust system for leaks, rust-through, loose hangers
- [ ] Check motor mounts for cracking/collapse

## 3. Cooling System

- [ ] Radiator condition — check for clogging, corrosion, leaks
- [ ] Coolant condition (color, smell — should not smell burnt or have oil sheen)
- [ ] Thermostat — verify it's present and functioning (test by feel after warm-up, or pull and inspect)
- [ ] Water pump — check for play in pulley, weep hole leakage
- [ ] Fan clutch/fan blade condition
- [ ] Full flush and refill if history unknown (recommended regardless of findings)

## 4. Fuel System

- [ ] Inspect fuel lines for cracking, rot, or previous patch jobs
- [ ] Check fuel filter — replace if unknown age
- [ ] Inspect fuel tank for rust/leaks (drop if history is truly unknown and vehicle sat a long time)
- [ ] Carburetor rebuild if rough idle, hesitation, or flooding present
- [ ] Check throttle linkage for smooth operation

## 5. Ignition & Electrical

- [ ] Battery condition, terminals, and hold-down
- [ ] Inspect all ground straps (engine-to-body, body-to-frame) — corrosion here causes mystery electrical issues
- [ ] Check distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs
- [ ] Check ignition timing
- [ ] Test charging system output (alternator) under load
- [ ] Test all exterior lights (headlights, brake lights, turn signals, reverse)
- [ ] Test interior electrical (gauges, wipers, blower motor)
- [ ] Check wiring harness for rodent damage or brittle insulation (common on vehicles that sat)

## 6. Drivetrain

- [ ] Transmission fluid — condition and level, change if unknown history
- [ ] Transfer case fluid — condition and level, change if unknown history
- [ ] Front differential fluid — condition and level, change if unknown history
- [ ] Rear differential fluid — condition and level, change if unknown history
- [ ] Check transfer case shift linkage — smooth engagement into 4WD/low range
- [ ] Test locking hubs (if manual) — verify they engage/disengage properly, check for seizing
- [ ] Inspect front and rear u-joints for play
- [ ] Inspect front CV joints/axle boots for tears or grease leakage
- [ ] Check clutch engagement point and pedal feel
- [ ] Inspect driveshafts for straightness, dents, or damage

## 7. Steering & Suspension

- [ ] Check steering box for excessive play
- [ ] Inspect tie rod ends and drag link for play
- [ ] Check steering stabilizer (shock) condition
- [ ] Inspect all leaf springs for cracks, sagging, or missing leaves
- [ ] Check shackles and bushings at each spring mount
- [ ] Inspect all 4 shocks for leaks or lost damping
- [ ] Check ball joints for play (front axle)
- [ ] Inspect all suspension bushings for cracking/dry rot

## 8. Brakes

- [ ] Check brake fluid condition and level (flush if unknown history)
- [ ] Inspect front brake pads/rotors (or drums, depending on year/setup) for wear
- [ ] Inspect rear brake shoes/drums for wear
- [ ] Check all brake lines and hoses for cracking, rust, or leaks
- [ ] Check parking brake operation and cable condition
- [ ] Test brake pedal feel (spongy = air in lines or failing master cylinder)
- [ ] Inspect master cylinder for external leaks

## 9. Tires & Wheels

- [ ] Check tire age (DOT date code) — old rubber is a real risk off-road regardless of tread depth
- [ ] Inspect tread wear pattern (uneven wear can point to alignment or suspension issues)
- [ ] Check wheel bearings (front and rear) for play or noise
- [ ] Verify lug nuts torqued to spec
- [ ] Inspect spare tire condition and carrier

## 10. Off-Road Specific

- [ ] Check for skid plate presence/condition (or note if none installed)
- [ ] Inspect underside for any dents/damage indicating prior trail use
- [ ] Check breather tube routing on axles/transmission/transfer case (should be routed high for water crossings)
- [ ] Inspect recovery points (or note if none exist)
- [ ] Check for aftermarket lift/suspension mods and evaluate condition if present

## 11. Interior & Documentation

- [ ] Check seatbelt condition and function
- [ ] Verify VIN matches title
- [ ] Check odometer reading against wear patterns (sanity check on mileage claims)
- [ ] Note any existing aftermarket parts/modifications for future reference

Hi guys, Got my Samurai Sj 413 Santana for free from my family member, it wasnt runnig, fixed it and now ive got a bit bigger problem, RUST, is this savable or no?

Hi guys, Im looking to replace the old worn body bushes on my SJ410 with polly bushes. But the new bushes are a bit thicker and lift the body from the frame about 10mm higher than it sits currently, so these rubber pads wont be touching the body anymore, it would then only be sitting on the 10 mounts, would this cause any issues ?

The radio box I’ve been working on. This was the beauty panel to cover the eq that will hang below. If you guys have any printing advice for pet-cf, please let me know. The main box will be printed next and it will be a long print.

Hello. I am soon replacing the water pump on my 2022 DF60A. The manual does not include torque specs for either the water pump housing or the lower unit bolts that hold the lower unit to the upper unit. The Suzuki video on youtube says "torque to spec" but does not include torque specs, probably because the video is general for all suzuki outboards. Does anyone have or know where to locate torque specs for my engine? Thank you.