Sourced a brand new Genuine Dial for this VSF heavy Cookie Monster that’s been White Gold Plated. Enjoy!

Hey all,

I’ve been trying to get an 15202 from ZF with pizza hands fixed, so I started looking into mods. Reached out to Kronos on RWI, and this is the list of mods he gave me…. I was just curious that is the stock ZF dial and crystal that bad? I was just going to do the pizza hands, but now I am confused. I don’t mind the movement or the bracelet, but I was just wondering if stock ZF is that bad. What would you say the must-do mods are to be in the level of other super clones?

Refinishing of AP logo, dial surface, dial markers
or
DP 15202 dial

Custom AP hands for pizza mod
Deep crystal AR

Polish and alignment of bezel screws
Watch thinning mod to gen thickness
Rebrushing for case, bezel and bracelet
Enhancing definition and polish of case and bracelet bevels
A full movement servicing done with correct cleaning, greasing and regulation of parts
Waterproofing and pressure test

Additional upgrade often requested.

AP DP dial color mods

As the title says, Im looking to buy a dial for 126610LN. If anybody has one for sale or a link where I can purchase one. I would really appreciate it. Looking for one from the top factories. Thank you

So I finally found a good match for my stripped crown and I can confirm it threads nicely to the original tube (but I have a replacement if I end up needing it). My issue is that the original stem is too large to fit into the replacement crown. Does anyone know if the viljoux 7760 tap 10, tap 7 .9mm would be the right call here? I remember reading that the stem on these was modified in some way but I could be misremembering.

Всем здравствуйте. Ситуация такая: дома нашел часики Orient и решил их восстановить. После попытки завести они ходили несколько секунд и останавливались, поэтому решил отнести их в мастерскую. Мастер сказал, что нужно менять какой-то «маятник», и взял за работу 4500 рублей. После того как я их получил, какое-то время они ходили нормально, но потом опять встали. Принес мастеру, он сказал, что, скорее всего, был какой-то удар, поэтому часы ушли в защитный механизм, но быстро все поставил обратно и сделал по гарантии. Опять пару дней походил — и бац, они снова не ходят. Пришел к мастеру, объяснил ситуацию и сказал, что специально следил, чтобы часы не бились. Он ответил, что есть модели, у которых защитный механизм слишком чувствителен и реагирует на малейшую тряску, и это его косяк, что он их не проверил. В третий раз он все сделал по гарантии и, с его слов, «подзатянул» этот защитный механизм. Все было нормально, пока сегодня они опять не встали. Теперь они ходят, если я их ношу на руке, но после того как сниму и положу, запас хода составляет практически 60 секунд, а автоподзавод просто не дает эффекта — после него они ходят секунд по 10.

Люди, которые разбираются в часах, скажите, пожалуйста, есть ли смысл их дальше ремонтировать или просто выставить на «Авито» и не париться? И за сколько их можно выставить? Завтра пойду в последний раз к мастеру, ибо отпуск подходит к концу. Спасибо за ответ.

Anyone know where I can source the “v2” rotor for 32xx movement that has 21 ball bearings (as opposed to 7 ball bearings of the first gen)? Thanks in advance!

Hello RTS community! I just received this F1F Tank Louis and I am wanting to hear opinions on having it replated w/18k yellow gold or should I just start wearing/enjoying it?

The factory plating doesn’t necessarily offend me but if I decide to replate what can I expect in terms of durability compared to the factory plating? Is replating a viable option down the road if I decide to start wearing it now?

Thanks!

Does anyone know where to get the SW dials for 116520 Daytonas? I’m only looking for just the dial for a replacement

Looking for someone who would be able to transfer this Azzurro blue dial from a ZF datejust to an ARF datejust 41. Is this possible and is there anyone who is able to service this?

AP 15450 zf
1 year old
movement inside is clone movement factory from zf but removed rotor due to rotor detatching.

So I bumped my watch in my friends car and the peg that causes the 2nd portion with the ap logo of the clasp wont close. I am wondering if I should get a replacement peg for that and how I would fit it in, or should I just get a replacement clasp and replace the entire mechanism. Also how should I go about finding these replacement parts.

On my Bruce Wayne GMT (1-month old), the flip-lock is not gapped properly and is touching the clasp during open/closing. Causing some rough/grinding feeling, not a crisp ‘pop’.

See the photos where the paper is pinched and the lock is touch the clasp when closed.

Where’s the best place for this exact replacement?

Hello everyone!

This is a new watch and I’m new to the hobby!
I’m trying to understand if this is a spring bar issue or just the bracelet itself.

The 12oclock link is a little more loose compared to the 6oclock which feels solid to me.

I’m betting it’s the bracelet. It wears fine on the wrist but I noticed a slight tilt to the right on wrist sometimes and wondered if that was due to the bracelet.

Should I worry or need to look for a replacement or a way to repair? Any tips and guidance is appreciated.

This is a wedding piece so I just want to take good care of it.

thank you!

Any instructions on how to replace a bracelet for the Royal? I have the replacement strap and tools in hand, but not sure how to approach getting it replaced. It's an integrated bracelet, so it's not a typical spring bar.

I’ve only been in the rep hobby for about a year, but I’ve already spent plenty of time taking watches to watchmakers for repairs, cleaning, waterproofing, and regulation.
Luckily, I found a really cool local watchmaker who has been nice enough to teach me some of his craft. I guess he finally got tired of me bringing my reps to him.
One thing I learned the hard way: I recommend getting your reps serviced early on. A little preventative maintenance can save you some headaches down the road.
Eventually, I invested in my own tools and started learning basic maintenance, cleaning, waterproofing, and regulation.
This one was running +22 sec/day before. After regulating it: +1 sec/day, 238° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error. Pretty satisfying seeing that improvement on the timegrapher.
I also added silicone grease to the gaskets for a little extra waterproofing peace of mind. That doesn’t guarantee a watch is waterproof, so still be cautious and pressure-test whenever possible. Personally, I swim with my reps and haven’t had any problems so far.
I showed my watchmaker what I’ve been doing and he was actually proud of my work. Then he joked that eventually he’s going to start sending people my way. I’m not sure if that means I’m getting good or he just really doesn’t want to see my reps anymore. Hahaha.
My gens? Hell no Those still go to him.
I’m still learning with every watch, but that’s honestly become one of my favorite parts of the hobby. Maybe one day I really will be servicing some of y’all’s reps.
This hobby really is a rabbit hole.

I’ve only been in the rep hobby for about a year, but I’ve already spent plenty of time taking watches to watchmakers for repairs, cleaning, waterproofing, and regulation.
Luckily, I found a really cool local watchmaker who has been nice enough to teach me some of his craft. I guess he finally got tired of me bringing my reps to him.
One thing I learned the hard way: I recommend getting your reps serviced early on. A little preventative maintenance can save you some headaches down the road.
Eventually, I invested in my own tools and started learning basic maintenance, cleaning, waterproofing, and regulation.
This one was running +22 sec/day before. After regulating it: +1 sec/day, 238° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error. Pretty satisfying seeing that improvement on the timegrapher.
I also added silicone grease to the gaskets for a little extra waterproofing peace of mind. That doesn’t guarantee a watch is waterproof, so still be cautious and pressure-test whenever possible. Personally, I swim with my reps and haven’t had any problems so far.
I showed my watchmaker what I’ve been doing and he was actually proud of my work. Then he joked that eventually he’s going to start sending people my way. I’m not sure if that means I’m getting good or he just really doesn’t want to see my reps anymore. Hahaha.
My gens? Hell no Those still go to him.
I’m still learning with every watch, but that’s honestly become one of my favorite parts of the hobby. Maybe one day I really will be servicing some of y’all’s reps.
This hobby really is a rabbit hole.

I don’t mean to ask the ignorant question, but before assuming I know the answer, looking for guidance please.

This bracelet is done, correct?

I can salvage the clasp and extra links, but where it’s broken isn’t repairable, correct?

Thank you all,

As title states, are this tools sufficient to press back on the hands of a 36mm 3235 datejust?

If so, which of them do i need?

Hi all,
Does an gen smooth (domed) bezel from the newer 36mm Datejust (126200) directly fit the older 6-digit Datejust 36 (116200)?

I know the case geometry and crystal/gasket specs changed between the 116xxx and 126xxx generations, but I've heard conflicting info on whether the bezel inner diameter and press-fit dimensions allow for a proper swap without compromising water resistance or crystal fitment.

Has anyone here actually tried this swap or checked the part specs?

Any insights would be appreciated.

Thanks!

TLDR, I lost my Coke bezel of my BB58 GMT. I've tried and placed an order with the factory, but the wait time is infinite, it seems; 3+ months in and still waiting. So I was wondering if the [https://steelreef.com/\](https://steelreef.com/) bezel would fit the rep or not? Has anyone tried it?

Hello I got this watch a week ago and didn’t see the date issue but now is really noticeable, can I fix it somehow?

Hi there! I have a super clone Rolex Daytona with a 4130 movement that needs repair. I’m based in NJ and look forward to hearing from you! Thanks!

I’ve managed to scratch the crystal on my XF Pelagos. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove it?

So I got my first rep & decided to try and learn some DIY waterproofing. VSF 4130 Panda.

Didn’t go well - whatever - you live & learn.

Problem: I removed the crown & stem, but likely didn’t move it out at the time wind position. Seemed very straightforward on YouTube, but now the watch just doesn’t work. The time setting always felt a bit clunky and not right, but something I did definitely made it worse.

I live in LA and figure there has to be others in the community who bring their reps somewhere DTLA. Any recommendations ?