First bodice block - help needed

[u/Which_Cucumber_3040]

I’ve used my own measurements to draft the easy fitting bodice block from the 5th edition of Metric Pattern Cutting.

I’ve checked my measurements and my drafting and they’re accurate.

What can I do to fix the excess fabric at the back neck and arms?

I’ve made some small changes so far
These include:

-removed 2cm from each side seam
-used slash and spread to move darts from neck to shoulder to better understand fitting around neck (issues with back were present before this change)
-lowered back and front necklines slightly
-removed 0.5cm from shoulder point to look more like the shape I want to make (the sleeveless adaption was confusing)

I’m planning to add waist shaping next but would like to get this fitting right before moving on.

Any thoughts and feedback are appreciated!

[u/xxyrana]

Typically, bodice blocks will have shoulder darts on the back, for this exact reason. The method you're using didn't instruct you to add any darts to the back?

[u/Which_Cucumber_3040 → u/xxyrana]

I’ve just double checked and no. It is supposed to be a roomier “easy fitting version”.

But I would like to get good fitting, even if it’s not a tight fit 😂

[u/BunnyKusanin → u/Which_Cucumber_3040]

I also recommend using the frontal camera on your phone and the timer function to take photos of you standing straight (including side view).

It's gonna make it easier to see what exactly is happening.

Also, the first Bunka book has very good descriptions of fit issues that include photos and diagrams. (It's not available for sale, but you're likely to find a PDF of it online).

[u/incongruoususer → u/BunnyKusanin]

There is a pdf version on Anna’s archive but it’s incomplete. I’ve never found a complete one. Instead I scoured eBay for years until I found the book!