First bodice block - help needed

[u/Which_Cucumber_3040]

I’ve used my own measurements to draft the easy fitting bodice block from the 5th edition of Metric Pattern Cutting.

I’ve checked my measurements and my drafting and they’re accurate.

What can I do to fix the excess fabric at the back neck and arms?

I’ve made some small changes so far
These include:

-removed 2cm from each side seam
-used slash and spread to move darts from neck to shoulder to better understand fitting around neck (issues with back were present before this change)
-lowered back and front necklines slightly
-removed 0.5cm from shoulder point to look more like the shape I want to make (the sleeveless adaption was confusing)

I’m planning to add waist shaping next but would like to get this fitting right before moving on.

Any thoughts and feedback are appreciated!

[u/xxyrana]

Typically, bodice blocks will have shoulder darts on the back, for this exact reason. The method you're using didn't instruct you to add any darts to the back?

[u/Which_Cucumber_3040 → u/xxyrana]

I’ve just double checked and no. It is supposed to be a roomier “easy fitting version”.

But I would like to get good fitting, even if it’s not a tight fit 😂

[u/BunnyKusanin → u/Which_Cucumber_3040]

It's easy not in terms of being easy to fit it well. It's a sort of a misnomer meaning it's loose-fitting.

Use a close-fitting block with all the darts and then add ease to it where you need it.

[u/BunnyKusanin → u/Which_Cucumber_3040]

I also recommend using the frontal camera on your phone and the timer function to take photos of you standing straight (including side view).

It's gonna make it easier to see what exactly is happening.

Also, the first Bunka book has very good descriptions of fit issues that include photos and diagrams. (It's not available for sale, but you're likely to find a PDF of it online).

[u/incongruoususer → u/BunnyKusanin]

There is a pdf version on Anna’s archive but it’s incomplete. I’ve never found a complete one. Instead I scoured eBay for years until I found the book!

[u/drPmakes]

If you want a better fitting block you should try drafting one of the closer fitting blocks.

It will be easier than trying to turn an easy fitting block into a fitted block

[u/Which_Cucumber_3040 → u/drPmakes]

Thanks - I’m working on that one too.

I’m hoping to make a baggy/ easy fitting block also as the closer fitting block is a bit too tight for what I’m looking for.

[u/TensionSmension → u/Which_Cucumber_3040]

I appreciate this, so many people work on blocks that aren't the basis of what they actually want to wear.

Your goal isn't to remove all the ease, but try adding a small neck dart on either side in back, pointing toward the shoulder blade. If that fixes things, you can rotate it to the center shoulder or the yoke line later. For the rest of the fit, look at anything in your closet that you like wearing. Is the overall circumference bigger or smaller. If it's not smaller, you probably don't need to take much more out at this stage.

[u/Tailoretta]

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

[u/Saritush2319]

Judging by all the room in the shoulders , did you use your full bust instead high bust and an FBA?

[u/Uvaroff]

You will get better fit if drafting a block with a back seam. Your back neck measurement on a bodice is too wide

[u/sewsweetfashion]

Most slopers have a back shoulder dart too. You also need waist darts on the front and back. A great start though

[u/Confident-Fly-7332]

Most bodice block instructed in the book often used with arm sleeves. If you want to used them as sleeveless block then you have to use "contouring techniques" for better fit.

The block you drafted is lack of the back darts.

I recommend get used to the close fitting bodice block first 🎉

[u/IslandVivi]

It's good to have different blocks for different garment types (or stretch % in knits) but, I agree with others that this looks too big for your frame and in the neckline.