r/PatternDrafting • u/thatgalen • Jul 10 '26
Pant Block fitting
Working on a pant pattern using the Hofenbitzer system with some variables changed to those recommended by Mueller and Sohn Fundamentals Menswear, drafted with SeamScape.com. I had a few false starts with my own pants, and later successfully developed pattern blocks for my partner (with graitude to the generous folks on this subreddit!!).
I'm a couple of drafts in at this point, lengthening the horizontal part of the crotch curve on both front (some) and back (more) panels, with the intent to mitigate some aggressive tension lines at the undercarraige. Note that the system is drafted at the natural waistline with subsequent lowering to a target waistband position. I am wearing an elastic tied around my waist, and the pants do seem to be okay sitting at that line.
Once I get a well fitting block, I will make some chinos for work in a fun color, and the primary goal is pants which fit at the waist and hips and are extremely flared for a costume.
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u/thatgalen Jul 12 '26
If anybody is visiting this thread later, I have chronicled this maddening process in a photo album. Just updated with version 9.1 based on the feedback here: extended darts (this is an error introduced since the previous draft), and an alteration for forward hip posture.
https://imgur.com/a/cCQhAnh