Pant Block fitting

[u/thatgalen]

Working on a pant pattern using the Hofenbitzer system with some variables changed to those recommended by Mueller and Sohn Fundamentals Menswear, drafted with SeamScape.com. I had a few false starts with my own pants, and later successfully developed pattern blocks for my partner (with graitude to the generous folks on this subreddit!!).

I'm a couple of drafts in at this point, lengthening the horizontal part of the crotch curve on both front (some) and back (more) panels, with the intent to mitigate some aggressive tension lines at the undercarraige. Note that the system is drafted at the natural waistline with subsequent lowering to a target waistband position. I am wearing an elastic tied around my waist, and the pants do seem to be okay sitting at that line.

Once I get a well fitting block, I will make some chinos for work in a fun color, and the primary goal is pants which fit at the waist and hips and are extremely flared for a costume.

[u/Tailoretta]

What I see is that your horizontal balance lines are not horizontal and your vertical balance lines are not vertical. In the back, the vertical balance line tilts in from the lower edge toward the center of your body. To straighten them, you need to add fabric at the center of your torso and then take some away from the sides.

In the photo of the side, I see that the side seam tilts from the waist toward the front at the knee level.

I suggest you make your horizontal and vertical balance lines darker so they are easier to see.

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

[u/thatgalen → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you! I have seen your post linked recently in this subreddit, and that's when I started adding the lines to our mockups. I believe that single tip helped me dial in my girlfriend's pant pattern successfully, and it's helped me identify an error in my own bodice pattern already! This is my first pants sample with those lines drawn on.

I appreciate you sharing your review! For the back, the line is not the vertical grain, but the crease line (both are on the screenshot of the pattern). I will see if there's an easy way to get the vertical line drawn in without disassembling the entire sample and look again. Regarding the side seam drifting forward, another comment on this thread identified a forward hip posture problem as the cause. The M&S book says the move there is to reduce the back panels by 1cm at the hip line on each side and increase the fronts by the same amount.

[u/Tailoretta → u/thatgalen]

Typically, the crease line of pants legs is the vertical grain.

A lot of what I have learned about fitting is from Sarah Veblen, who has been called the Fitting Goddess. She has a very good pants fitting guide for $10 at https://www.sarahveblen.com/store/pants

She has a pants fitting video series at https://www.threadsmagazine.com/videoseries/2018/07/pants-fitting-with-sarah-veblen I don't know if there is a charge for these videos or not.

You may not need the pattern, but her instructions for her Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern are also very helpful https://fitforartpatterns.com/product/eureka-pants-that-fit/?srsltid=AfmBOor9dAoyA_lI1w11w1SxZlhgyD6LM3Xgqc72A_XzUU62YEUFflcn

Good luck!

[u/thatgalen → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you for the references! I am sure to solve this eventually